Detailing kits...

[hctu]

Just found out that my almost new car has a scratch on it... f*ck! Luckily, it looks like it's only the clear coat that was scratched as I only see the white on it.

The bright side is that I now have a good reason for a chance to learn how to detail. From reading through this thread, seems like many experts in here. So my questions are...

1. The Porter Cable 7424xp seems like a pretty good choice for a polisher, any others?

2. What types of pads should I get? I would like to learn to remove minor scratches, polishing, applying sealers and waxes, etc. How many pads would I need to wax or seal an entire car?

On a side note, on my back bumper - just above the exhaust, that area looks like its lost its shine from the exhaust and I cannot buff it to shine by hand. What types of pads would I need to do this safely.

Thanks you all you experts in advance!

[xtreme prelude]

if you get the ADAMS detailing kit, all the pads are color coordinated to the type of polish/was/sealer etc.. that is to be used with it. they sell a complete kit with the porter cable for a decent price and it will do your car many times over.

[HiSpec]

Originally posted by hctu
Just found out that my almost new car has a scratch on it... f*ck! Luckily, it looks like it's only the clear coat that was scratched as I only see the white on it.

The bright side is that I now have a good reason for a chance to learn how to detail. From reading through this thread, seems like many experts in here. So my questions are...

1. The Porter Cable 7424xp seems like a pretty good choice for a polisher, any others?

7424XP is a very good DA. Can remove 85-90% of paint defects. Lots of pad and backing plate options.
Another option is the Flex 3401 DA, more powerful than 7424XP but limited pad options.

But just like any DA, it will require more time for paint correction compare to a rotary.


2. What types of pads should I get? I would like to learn to remove minor scratches, polishing, applying sealers and waxes, etc. How many pads would I need to wax or seal an entire car?[/B]

Since you are just starting, keep it simple.
You can mix and match pads with polish depending on the severity of the paint defect.

Pads (Cutting/Polishing/Finishing):
Yellow
Black
Green (can be used for jeweling)

Polish (Compound/Polish/Finish):
M105
Menzerna Power Finish
Menzerna Powerlock (or sealant/wax of your choice)


On a side note, on my back bumper - just above the exhaust, that area looks like its lost its shine from the exhaust and I cannot buff it to shine by hand. What types of pads would I need to do this safely.
[/B]

I am assuming that the damage is from the exhaust fume. If the damage is simply just exhaust fume deposits embedded into the paint then degrease and clay and finally polish should bring the finish back. However, if the clear/paint is melted from the hot exhaust fume then you would need a repaint.

[vtec4life]

Just a precaution - if you have never used a power polisher before I can almost guarantee that you will do more damage to your car than good the first few times around. Practise on a small inconspicuous area.. if you can.

Be very very careful with the bumpers especially since they are plastic and the paint can be burned very easily. The doors/panels/hood can take a bit more heat but you still have to be gentle.

Start at a low speed, be very generous with the product and never hold the polisher in one spot !

[civicrider]

best polish and pad combo is the 3m three step system. All color coordinated and the compounds do not contain grit, instead they use a chemical for cutting, way more consistent and safe.

[know1edge]

Originally posted by vtec4life
Just a precaution - if you have never used a power polisher before I can almost guarantee that you will do more damage to your car than good the first few times around. Practise on a small inconspicuous area.. if you can.

Be very very careful with the bumpers especially since they are plastic and the paint can be burned very easily. The doors/panels/hood can take a bit more heat but you still have to be gentle.

Start at a low speed, be very generous with the product and never hold the polisher in one spot !

Orbital polishers are extremely user friendly, you would have to be trying REALLY hard to burn paint with one.

[HiSpec]

Originally posted by civicrider
best polish and pad combo is the 3m three step system. All color coordinated and the compounds do not contain grit, instead they use a chemical for cutting, way more consistent and safe.

You should try Meguiar MF system (or any MF system)


Originally posted by know1edge


Orbital polishers are extremely user friendly, you would have to be trying REALLY hard to burn paint with one.

+1

[mgwatson]

Get any polish with diminishing abrasives that are designed to breakdown and refine the amount of cutting power as you work the polish. I would recommend Meguires 105 and 205 as a good 2 stage polish setup, then for ease of application, grab a liquid sealant that you can apply using your DA polisher. If you're just starting out, I would recommend grabbing a couple orange, white and black (or red) lake country foam pads (orange for compound, white for polish, red or black for wax application).

The most important part of a flawless polishing job is to TAKE YOUR TIME. Work 2ft x 2ft sections at a time and complete 5-6 section passes to remove the imperfections. Make sure you don't push down too hard on the porter cable polisher as it will stop the pad from spinning and just make it oscillate which, while being safe for your paint, will no longer be effectively removing swirls. The pad MUST remain spinning for effective paint correction.

Once you "master" the porter cable 7424xp, I would suggest moving up to the Flex 3401 which is a forced rotation dual action polisher. It's pretty much just as safe for your paint because it still oscillates (which means it generates much less heat than a rotary polisher) just like the porter cable, but it will always be rotating which is a lot better for faster, more effective paint correction.

Can you achieve the same results with a PC7424XP as you can with a Flex 3401? Almost. The Flex machine will be able to take out slightly deeper scratches, but apart from that, you can pretty much achieve the same result with both with the major difference being the amount of time it takes to acheive the desired result using the PC.

Hope this helps man. Hit me up with any questions!

Mike:thumbsup:

[sneek]

Originally posted by mgwatson
Get any polish with diminishing abrasives that are designed to breakdown and refine the amount of cutting power as you work the polish. I would recommend Meguires 105 and 205 as a good 2 stage polish setup, then for ease of application, grab a liquid sealant that you can apply using your DA polisher. If you're just starting out, I would recommend grabbing a couple orange, white and black (or red) lake country foam pads (orange for compound, white for polish, red or black for wax application).



Just for the record, M105 and M205 are not diminishing abrasive polishes. Both of the above use Meguiar's SMAT to clean up imperfections. Not all SMAT products are the same, but from my understanding the bigger difference is actually in what carrier fluid is used to deliver the technology.

Diminishing abrasive technology is seen on products like M85, M84, M83, M80...etc). Just like the name would imply, the abrasives become smaller in size as you polish. As the polish breaks down the quality of the finish improves enough that you can step down to another stage. For example, I used M84 on a burgundy pad at 1500RPM. When I am doing my final pass the residual M84 might only have the cut of fresh M80. That way I could switch to M80 on a lighter polishing pad on DA to finish.

:hijack:

[K3RMiTdot]

I have my flex for sale, if youre interested!

[HiSpec]

Originally posted by K3RMiTdot
I have my flex for sale, if youre interested!

going rotary?

[K3RMiTdot]

^^ i wanan try the rupes :D

[sneek]

Originally posted by K3RMiTdot
^^ i wanan try the rupes :D

+1. I ordered the Bigfoot from a friend. I really hope it is worth the hype because it is stupidly expensive for the specs.

[HiSpec]

It's still a DA no?
Damn... time to get a new toy for summer.

[K3RMiTdot]

Yeah i believe it is, im only getting it because its lighter.

BWAHA

[HiSpec]

im considering picking up a rotary for summer as well.

[mgwatson]

Originally posted by HiSpec
im considering picking up a rotary for summer as well.
Might want to consider the Flex 3403 if you're just getting into rotary polishing. It's a smaller, lightweight rotary pretty much aimed at the beginner rotary polishing demographic. Couple downsides to it would be that you can't use an 8" wool pad on it because it will overheat and that its lowest rpm setting is 1100rpm, so jeweling at a lower rpm which a lot of detailers like to do will be out of the question. Other than that its a great little rotary to learn and still has some serious correction power.

[HiSpec]

Originally posted by mgwatson

Might want to consider the Flex 3403 if you're just getting into rotary polishing. It's a smaller, lightweight rotary pretty much aimed at the beginner rotary polishing demographic. Couple downsides to it would be that you can't use an 8" wool pad on it because it will overheat and that its lowest rpm setting is 1100rpm, so jeweling at a lower rpm which a lot of detailers like to do will be out of the question. Other than that its a great little rotary to learn and still has some serious correction power.

It was my first choice and exactly for the exact same reason I changed my mind. I tried the FLEX PE14-2 for a good 2 months over summer and it sold me. I still have my trusty DA for jeweling.

[mgwatson]

good stuff, the pe14-2 is a beast. give it the respect it deserves and you will be rewarded with amazing results.