Hot water tank issues

[shutterbug_art8]

I have a 6 yrs old water tank and the pilot keep going out. This is almost an everyday occurrence now.

Anyone on here in this business or advice on what the issues might be?

Thanks

[Alterac]

Check the Thermocouple.

If its got a ton of crap on it, you can wipe it off and see if it still turns off.

If so, replace it, its a $15 part and 99% the first part replaced.

[AndyL]

Yeah, clean up the thermocouple - I think there was a special technique for it... But a scuff with a 3m/scotchbrite used to get us by until a replacement could be found (But then use gloves when handling, skin oils was part of the problem if I recall)

[ExtraSlow]

Bump, I woke this morning to no hot water. Went down and looked and it appears the pilot won't even light. My understanding of the situation is that you need the pilot lit before the thermocouple matters. That sound right?

Suggestions before I got to replacement?

[Env-Consultant]

Not sure of the expected life on your current unit - mine was 7-10 years. I was just before year 7 and it started leaking. Rather than F around with it (given the age), I had a new one chucked in by Pete the Plumber for $750. No regrets. I had leaking issues though, not lighting issues. Lighting = inconvenience, Leaking = potential huge bills.

[Aleks]

Originally posted by Env-Consultant
Not sure of the expected life on your current unit - mine was 7-10 years. I was just before year 7 and it started leaking. Rather than F around with it (given the age), I had a new one chucked in by Pete the Plumber for $750. No regrets. I had leaking issues though, not lighting issues. Lighting = inconvenience, Leaking = potential huge bills.

I replaced both of ours at the same time when we bought a new house even though they weren't leaking (they were 15 years old) We put these trays under them and piped them down to the drain so hopefully if/when they leak the water will go to the drain.

http://www.oatey.com/img/subcategory/34170.jpg

[StreetRacerX]

So the spark igniter doesn't light the pilot anymore? Replacing a thermocouple is usually pretty easy but the John Wood you have is a little harder than some as you have to disconnect and remove the burner assembly to remove the thermocouple.

Personally I would replace the tank (I prefer Bradford White) as those Flame Guards are typically shit. If you want to keep it going you can probably throw a 24" thermocouple in and check to see if the flame roll out switch was tripped (on the right side opposite the sight glass, it has two wires going to it, you can push a small tab on it, if it makes an audible click sound it's been tripped, check the flame, is it yellow and noisy?)

[ExtraSlow]

Originally posted by StreetRacerX
So the spark igniter doesn't light the pilot anymore? Replacing a thermocouple is usually pretty easy but the John Wood you have is a little harder than some as you have to disconnect and remove the burner assembly to remove the thermocouple.

Personally I would replace the tank (I prefer Bradford White) as those Flame Guards are typically shit. If you want to keep it going you can probably throw a 24" thermocouple in and check to see if the flame roll out switch was tripped (on the right side opposite the sight glass, it has two wires going to it, you can push a small tab on it, if it makes an audible click sound it's been tripped, check the flame, is it yellow and noisy?)
Yes, I cannot light the pilot. It went out on it's own overnight, and I canot get it relit. I'm not an expert, but that doesn't sound like a thermocouple problem to me.

[ExtraSlow]

Pete the plumber is fully booked until monday unless I pay for emergency service. Other reccomendations?

[Crazyjoker77]

Originally posted by ExtraSlow

Yes, I cannot light the pilot. It went out on it's own overnight, and I canot get it relit. I'm not an expert, but that doesn't sound like a thermocouple problem to me.

There is conflicting information in this thread. First off you need to know what kind of system your HWT is.

the 3 basic kinds are

-standing pilot (pilot is always lit and is kept lit by the flame heating the thermocouple)(these are the ones you have to manually light)

-intermittent pilot (the pilot only lights when there is a call for heat. the pilot is prooved with a flame rod which then allows the main gas valve to open.

-direct ingnition (no pilot at all the whole main burner is lit with a ignitor or hot surface ignitor and is prooved with a flame rod on the opposite end of the burner as the ignition source)

reading the OP sounds like its a standing pilot but some people are advising on intermintetent ignition type.

In a standing pilot system you should still be able to light the pilot even if the thermocouple is defective it just wont stay lit. which leads to a gas supply problem(valve,air lock, cracked pilot line, or gas is shutoff to the unit completely)

[Env-Consultant]

Originally posted by ExtraSlow
Bump, I woke this morning to no hot water. Went down and looked and it appears the pilot won't even light. My understanding of the situation is that you need the pilot lit before the thermocouple matters. That sound right?

Suggestions before I got to replacement?


Omzd9_oBiKc

You likely already watched this (and your brand likely differs), but this guy does a pretty good walkthrough/troubleshooting video.

[sillysod]

Originally posted by ExtraSlow

Yes, I cannot light the pilot. It went out on it's own overnight, and I canot get it relit. I'm not an expert, but that doesn't sound like a thermocouple problem to me.

If your tank is an older style that does not have an ignitor in it then yes you should always have the pilot light on.

If you turn it off for a minute, then to pilot and push down on the valve or hold the red button (depending on style) you should be able to light it with a lighter.

If you can't do that chances are your valve is no good.

[StreetRacerX]

Assuming that picture is of OPs HWT, he has a manual spark igniter which is located on the right side of the gas valve. He will have to set the temp dial to pilot which will allow him to push the red button on the left side down. With that red button depressed push the igniter button down repeatedly until the pilot ignites. If it fails to ignite, the igniter is faulty or the pilot valve is failing to open wit the red button depressed, beat the dead horse or have a new tank put in.


That tank is standing pilot with a manual spark igniter, it would be kindifficult of a pain in the ass to light it with a match orlightas the only way into the combustion chamber would be to remove the burner assembly which also means disconnecting the gas line and pilot line going from gas valve to burner assembly.

[ExtraSlow]

I think there's some confusion since I didn't start this thread, I just took it over.
To clarify, my tank is identical to the one in the first post, John Wood Flameguard pro. So yes, it's manual spark igniter.

[StreetRacerX]

Originally posted by ExtraSlow
I think there's some confusion since I didn't start this thread, I just took it over.
To clarify, my tank is identical to the one in the first post, John Wood Flameguard pro. So yes, it's manual spark igniter.

When you hit the spark igniter do you see it sparking through the sight window?

[ExtraSlow]

Fun update 1: Got a quote from Clearview plumbing. They don't do phone quotes, so I met the guy at my home, he looked at things, we talked for a bit, and he seemed pretty helpful. Then he taps away on his fancy ipad quoting software for a bit, and shows me some options. First option, $4200. Errrrm, NO. second option $3800. . . . . Sixth option, $1800. And that was the cheapest. Was for a nice 50 Gallon Rheem unit, but Jaysus, just doesn't seem reasonable. Basically, that unit retails around $800, so they are charging about a thousand dollars for install.

I sent that nice man away.

[ExtraSlow]

Fun Update 2: I was so annoyed about the concept of spending nearly two thousand dollars unexpectedly, that I went down to the tank and restarted my diagnostic process.

1) SPark, works, as it did earlier today.
2) pilot, lights up just fine, this is new.
3) pilot stays lit when I let go of the button
4) burner fires up fine!

I'm pretty fucking happy right now. I assume that gas valve is flaky and will fail soon, but for today, I have hot water.

A buddy of mine suggested somehow there could have been an air bubble in the gas supply line. Seems unlikely since the pilot lights in my two fireplaces are both lit and didn't go out.

Any thoughts on how this can happen? Is a flaky gas valve pretty much the only possibility here?

[speedog]

Thousand bucks for an install - shit, I had my old one out and the new one going in 90 minutes and that included me moving some copper pipes and messing around with the natural gas piping as well. If you know your way around some basic soldering skills and pipe cutting, then it's quite an easy task - good Saturday morning job.

[Tik-Tok]

Originally posted by speedog
Thousand bucks for an install - shit, I had my old one out and the new one going in 90 minutes and that included me moving some copper pipes and messing around with the natural gas piping as well. If you know your way around some basic soldering skills and pipe cutting, then it's quite an easy task - good Saturday morning job.

:werd: Not entirely legal (assuming it's gas), but it's pretty easy to replace a water tank. Especially if you buy the exact model you're replacing.

[G-ZUS]

~$1000 for install, last water tank install costed me $120 :nut:

[speedog]

Originally posted by Tik-Tok
:werd: Not entirely legal (assuming it's gas), but it's pretty easy to replace a water tank. Especially if you buy the exact model you're replacing.
I would dare say that there's many a home owner that's moved around some natural gas pipes or electrical stuff as well, legal or not.

[ExtraSlow]

Fun Update #3: pilot light and burner will light up fine (as per update #2), but do not stay lit. They go out within 15 minutes of lighting up. Have done it a couple of times now, same result.

So, I'm thinking it's not some random air bubbles in the gas lines, as neither of my fireplaces have had teh pilot lights go out. Seems like it must be a problem with that gas valve.

[Env-Consultant]

double post.

[sillysod]

Gas valve or flame sensor Extra - no way it's air in the lines. I would clean and then if that doesn't work replace the flame sensor first. Then get a gas valve if that doesn't fix it.

These things aren't rocket science, they are about as simple as it gets.

There is no need to replace your hot water heater. People always replace stuff that doesn't need it.

The plumbers make all their money doing this, my neighbour just paid over $1000 because his blower motor quit in his furnace. We built at the same time so have identical furnaces. The furnace tech sold him a new flame sensor and "ball bearing" blower motor (which was gone). He sold him on how much better ball bearing motors are than bushing ones and he ended up spending over $500 alone on the motor.

Mine went 2 weeks later and I went to Amre supply and picked one up for under $200.00. It took me about an hour to swap it out and the things been running fine since.

Don't get hosed, just fix it yourself.

[Tik-Tok]

Originally posted by speedog

I would dare say that there's many a home owner that's moved around some natural gas pipes or electrical stuff as well, legal or not.

Oh, I know. But before you go telling someone to do something illegal, you should let them know it is in fact illegal.

Liability and all that...

[blitz]

Same thing happened to me a few days ago. Same sealed type unit as you where I had to remove the whole burner assembly. I cleaned the thermocouple first, but ended up having to replace it. Home depot has 24" Honeywell thermocouples for $8.99. Now it's working like a champ :thumbsup:

[speedog]

Originally posted by Tik-Tok
Oh, I know. But before you go telling someone to do something illegal, you should let them know it is in fact illegal.

Liability and all that...
Quite true but it needs to be noted that I did not once tell someone to do something illegal.

[StreetRacerX]

Originally posted by blitz
Same thing happened to me a few days ago. Same sealed type unit as you where I had to remove the whole burner assembly. I cleaned the thermocouple first, but ended up having to replace it. Home depot has 24" Honeywell thermocouples for $8.99. Now it's working like a champ :thumbsup:

^This, for all the hassles you can end up going through this is probably the cheapest thing to change out on your tank, with the exception of having to remove your burner assembly to do it. If you have an voltage meter that reads millivolts and a couple alligator clips you can test the thermocouple to see if its producing the proper millivolts.

But in all honesty just buy the damn thermocouple, install it, and go from there.

[raceman6135]

ExtraSlow:

For clarification, as per the City of Calgary website:


Do I need a permit to replace a hot water heater?

A permit is only required when the size of the tank has changed and there is an alteration to the venting system or gas-line.

Source: http://www.calgary.ca/PDA/pd/Pages/Inspections/Technical-Assistance-Centre.aspx

So, if you do need to replace the water heater assembly, as long as NO changes are made, you can legally do it yourself.

As for your problem with the existing heater, I ran into this issue myself a couple of years ago. It was after a windy night, like the one we had last night, and my pilot wouldn't stay relit.

Replaced the thermocouple and it has been running fine ever since.

It seems like the old one was just barely hanging on, and as long as it stayed lit, it was fine, but once it was extinguished by the strong winds, it just packed it in.

As someone else has quoted, about $10 and an hour of your time and you'll likely get a few more years out of it.

However, this would be a good time to start setting aside a few bucks every month so that when the water heater does fail (or the furnace, or a stove, or washer and dryer, etc), it won't be a huge financial burden.

[ExtraSlow]

Oh hey guys. Thanks for the multiple suggestions to replace the thermocouple. Unless I'm way out to lunch about how that part works, that wasn't it.

Anywhoooo, new tank is in. Got a recommendation for this guy who is a gasfitter for his day job, and he does this kind of work for spending money in the evenings. He brought a helper with him to carry it in and out. They took about two hours total. The vent needed shortening, and it is an awkward and tight location.
He was polite, punctual, and tidied up after himself. A step up from the regular "handyman" guys you get from kijiji etc. If anyone wants his contact info, PM me.


Price was $1100 for a 60 Gallon tank. I'm cool with that price. I'm well aware that some places might have charged less. I also know at least three places in town that charge lots more.


Commence arguing and telling me I wasted $1100 on something that could have been fixed with an $8 part . . . now!

[Tik-Tok]

You should replace the thermocouple on your new tank, just to be sure.

[The_Penguin]

Well problem solved. Lots of good advice here, but bottom line, you do what's best for you. There's stuff around my home I wouldn't attempt to do, and other things I'd do in a heartbeat.

A 6 year old John Wood, I would have replaced the thermocouple, or even the gas valve before replacing the tank, but then I'm a DIYer. And while we can all sit and type what we think is wrong, who knows, could have been something totally different.

We just replaced 2 John Wood tanks that were 14 years old. A co-worker told me we were crazy, just wait till they fail. IMHO they were on borrowed time and 40 gallons of water can do some damage. I have a leak detector tied in to my automation system so I'd get a text, but still....

[codetrap]

Originally posted by ExtraSlow
Oh hey guys. Thanks for the multiple suggestions to replace the thermocouple. Unless I'm way out to lunch about how that part works, that wasn't it.

Anywhoooo, new tank is in. Got a recommendation for this guy who is a gasfitter for his day job, and he does this kind of work for spending money in the evenings. He brought a helper with him to carry it in and out. They took about two hours total. The vent needed shortening, and it is an awkward and tight location.
He was polite, punctual, and tidied up after himself. A step up from the regular "handyman" guys you get from kijiji etc. If anyone wants his contact info, PM me.


Price was $1100 for a 60 Gallon tank. I'm cool with that price. I'm well aware that some places might have charged less. I also know at least three places in town that charge lots more.


Commence arguing and telling me I wasted $1100 on something that could have been fixed with an $8 part . . . now! Honestly, I think you did good. Based on what you've described I don't think its the thermocouple either. On top of that, you're going to like having more hot water when your kids start taking 30 minute showers.

[blitz]

Originally posted by ExtraSlow


Ok :rofl:


Originally posted by ExtraSlow
[B]Fun Update #3: pilot light and burner will light up fine (as per update #2), but do not stay lit. They go out within 15 minutes of lighting up. Have done it a couple of times now, same result.

This is exactly how a worn thermocouple presents itself.

Oh well, you got a good price on the 60 gallon tank.

[ExtraSlow]

OK, while we're doing this, let's educate me, and anyone else who may happen across this thread.

Here's how I thought it worked.
- pilot light keeps thermocouple warm, thermocouple allows gas valve to turn on burner. malfunctioning thermocouple would have no effect on pilot light, but would not allow main burner to fire.

Here's how you guys seem to be saying it works: Thermocouple must be functioning for pilot or main burner to fire.

Do I at least understand what you are saying?

[Tik-Tok]

Originally posted by ExtraSlow


Here's how you guys seem to be saying it works: Thermocouple must be functioning for pilot or main burner to fire.

Do I at least understand what you are saying?

Yes.

If the thermocouple isn't working, the pilot will not stay on either. That's why you must hold down the manual pilot valve while lighting the pilot, until the thermocouple heats up, so it will keep the pilot running.

(In a old style conventional tank anyways, I can't speak for any new fangled electronic gizmos)

[suntan]

For a 60 gallon that's not a bad price at all.

[ExtraSlow]

Originally posted by suntan
For a 60 gallon that's not a bad price at all. I thought so. Seems like 60's are pretty expensive just for the unit.

[ExtraSlow]

Just in case anyone is wondering, I got a written quote from Pete the Plumber this morning, in response to my email from Friday. First thing that tells me is that you should phone if you are in a hurry.
They offered me a 50 gal for $910+GST and a 60 gal for $1150+gst.

Home Depot quoted me $1125 +GST for a 60 gal. So that seems to be the going rate for that size.

I'm really happy with the guy I used. As mentioned, anyone who wants his contact info can PM me.


Also, on the thermocouple issue, sounds like different people have different understanding of how that part works. I'm starting to think it could have been my problem. However, I'm the kind of guy that can't stand to replace a part until I know for sure that part is the issue. That's a rabbit hole that can suck up a lot of time and money.

Plus, I'm not really that handy, I usually manage to wreck things when I start trying to fix them, and that's not helping. Anyway, hopefully this is as educational for someone else as it has been for me. :thumbsup:

[Star1995]

Not to go too far off topic here, one thing you can do to prolong the life of the tank itself is replace the anode rod from time to time. The anode rod stops the tank from rusting, if you have soft water the anode rod will corrode at a faster rate. My hot water tank was a few years old when I moved in and that was 16 years ago. I put the endoscope in the tank a few months ago and there was a mirror finish inside with no signs of rust. The anode rod is, in my opinion the best kept secret that plumbers have. 8 years and you can guarantee the rod is gone and the tank is rusting, change the rod ($27) every few years or as needed and the tank will last forever. I believe this is one of the easiest/cheapest/biggest bang for the buck that every home owner should know but doesn't.

All you need to change the rod is an impact wrench, four minutes of your life, some Teflon tape, a TV with the game on. Tell the wife what you're doing and she easily accepts a 2-3 hour job. Throw in some beer and with any luck your wife will bring you some snacks...

Just my two cents on water heaters.

[Strider]

I must have gotten a lemon John Wood tank. I had to have the Intellivent gas control replaced about 5 years in, and now 1 year later the tank developed a leak and quit... Had to replace the whole thing - should have just done that in the first place.

Shopping around, the best quote I got was ... Home Depot! :nut:

I paid $1,347+gst for a Rheem Power Vented 50 Gallon tank - supplied, installed, & old one removed. Important to note Power Vented they tanks retail for $400 more than standard direct vent.

Compared to:
Pete the Plumber - $1,700
ARPIs - $2,265
Alberta Water heaters - $1,995
Urban Piping - $1,800-$2,000
and a few others in the same ballpark.

Their contractor will install the same day if you order in-store by noon (next day if after).

Side note/rant -- wtf is with plumbing companies that will only provide quotes in person with a $70-$150 service call? Sounds like a solid business plan to me... charge people $150 to come to their house, quote $4,000 for a water heater, get asked to gtfo, pocket $150, repeat, profit.

[roopi]

Originally posted by Strider


Side note/rant -- wtf is with plumbing companies that will only provide quotes in person with a $70-$150 service call? Sounds like a solid business plan to me... charge people $150 to come to their house, quote $4,000 for a water heater, get asked to gtfo, pocket $150, repeat, profit.

Which company (ies) is doing this?

[Strider]

Originally posted by roopi
Which company (ies) is doing this?

Clearview, Son-Rise, The Gentlemen Plumbers, and I'm sure there's a couple others I've talked in the past that will only do quotes on the spot. I don't remember exactly how much each one charges for their "initial service call" as I ended the conversation pretty quickly after I heard that, but it varies between $70-$150.

They usually begin with a spiel about how they stock everything you'd possibly need in their truck, so they only have to come out once, etc, etc.

I thought I was being cynical when I said the part about "quote $4,000 for a water heater" part, but it seems that was ExtraSlow's experience with Clearview.

[Ntense_SpecV]

My John Wood power vent tank that is only 4.5 years old and fucking around lately. It'll cycle, on & off for hours even if there is no call for hotwater. We've also had very little to no hotwater randomly.

I've had Apri's come look at it. He cleaned the pilot light and flame sensor and said it was the controller that needed to be changed. I replaced that myself with a plumber buddy/gas fitter. Still didn't fix the issue. I then changed both the air pressure switch and the high-limit switch. Still didn't fix the problem...had luke warm water Monday night and nobody used the tank all day. Next step is to replace the pilot light and flame sensor as a last ditch effort before full replacement. This tank is a serious POS for only lasting 4.5 years.

http://johnwoodwaterheaters.com/en/parts_catalogue?part=B5920&lookup=part_list

This is my tank and I'm basically at my wits end with it...I should call John Woods directly and see what they say or recommend.

[ExtraSlow]

Originally posted by Strider
I thought I was being cynical when I said the part about "quote $4,000 for a water heater" part, but it seems that was ExtraSlow's experience with Clearview. I was very unimpressed with clearview, and I would hesitate to ever call them in the future. It's downright shady

:thumbsdow :thumbsdow

[suntan]

Clearview is massively overpriced and a total ripoff.

[BokCh0y]

I ended up picking up a new hot water tank this past friday from Pete the Plumber - all in installed, additional venting, removal/disposal of old tank and the new 50 gallon tank - $1008 including tax.

I called Clearview and had them come out take a look first though, unfortunately didn't see this thread...what a ripoff clearview is Totally shady.

Dude from clearview shows up, literally looked at my old tank for 3 minutes then flat out said he ain't gonna fix it, clearview would charge at at least $500 so he told me to just get a new one. I was ok, so give me some quotes. Then we go upstairs where he quotes me a water softener starting at $4000 and a 40 gallon tank installed for $1800 plus tax. Their 50 gallon was $2000 plus tax. Obviously I told him no thanks. Then he charged me $70 fucking dollars for his travel and whatever the else fuck clearview calls that charge.

Clearview by far is the worst and most expensive/overpriced company ever. No idea how they stay in business. But i guess for $70 a visit basically to do nothing...it makes sense.

[nzwasp]

what brand did pete the plumber install for you?

[BokCh0y]

Rheem Professional Series Classic Plus gas hot water tank - 50 Gallon. 10 year warranty on the tank and 2 years parts and labour.

[nzwasp]

I need a power vented tank and none of the companies carry them in stock.....pretty brutal

[Strider]

Originally posted by nzwasp
I need a power vented tank and none of the companies carry them in stock.....pretty brutal

Home Depot. Go in and order/pay by noon and their contractor (Friesen's) will come install same day (see 10 posts up).

[nzwasp]

Thanks Strider thats exactly what I did.

Called up pete the plumber this morning found out model was a rheem powervent 50 Gallon with around 70% Efficiency. Tank was going to be $1695 with a $700 install.

Went to homedepot. Same tank $945, install was $300 - although now apparently due to code changes I need a new vent pipe so total Install will be around $1500 incl tax.

Pete told me they could do it friday. Through home depot im getting it done tomorrow at 12pm.

[88CRX]

I've posted this before but do not use ARO Plumbing (also known as Need a Plumber Canada) that are located at 10B 416 Meridian Rd SE, Calgary, AB T2A 1X2

They over quote, over charge and have terrible communication.

Wonder if they're the same company as Clearview :rofl: my experience sounds very similar. Unfortunately I wasn't there to tell ARO to get lost.

[sputnik]

Originally posted by nzwasp
Thanks Strider thats exactly what I did.

Called up pete the plumber this morning found out model was a rheem powervent 50 Gallon with around 70% Efficiency. Tank was going to be $1695 with a $700 install.

Went to homedepot. Same tank $945, install was $300 - although now apparently due to code changes I need a new vent pipe so total Install will be around $1500 incl tax.

Pete told me they could do it friday. Through home depot im getting it done tomorrow at 12pm.

Worth reading. When it comes to plumbing stuff, the Home Depot quality is seriously lacking. Even if it looks the same.

http://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/beware-home-depot-now-sells-rheem-water-heaters.57238/

[nzwasp]

Can't be worse than the last tank I had. Which was rated 2/10.

[Strider]

Originally posted by sputnik


Worth reading. When it comes to plumbing stuff, the Home Depot quality is seriously lacking. Even if it looks the same.

http://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/beware-home-depot-now-sells-rheem-water-heaters.57238/

:dunno: I just see the rants of an independent plumber with an agenda and no evidence to back up his claims, a sprinkling of anecdotes about Wal-mart and another "big advertiser", and a rant from a guy who installed his own water heater in an area prone to flooding.

Oh... and complaints about units from supply houses where an independent plumber picked up their units.


Friesen's left me contact and warranty info for my Home Depot unit... so not too worried about that angle either.


Aren't you the guy with the uncle who's an independent plumber and gouged a Beyond member for 2x the cost on a hot water tank?

Edit: I knew this bullshit smelled familiar
http://forums.beyond.ca/st/364200/how-much-did-your-hot-water-tank-cost/


Originally posted by rage2
This is where it got interesting. The quote from them on the faucets was double what was advertised by Home Depot. Sil told me that Home Depot are knock off Deltas and that's why they're cheaper.

Originally posted by rage2
I did question Sil about why Home Depot would sell knock offs, and he explained that they're inferior versions of the product made in China, while the ones he gets are from the Delta factory in the US, hence much more expensive.

I didn't believe it tho haha.

[cidley69]

Any updates to best company for new 50 gal tank?

My tank is GE, made by Rheem, and is dated 2007. The pressure relief valve started leaking and is getting worse.

Is this a part worth replacing, or a symptom of the tank going bad, and may as well replace whole thing?

[BokCh0y]

Clearview wouldn't touch my tank, just wanted to replace it. Pete the plumber indicated to me they don't repair tanks > 10 years of age.

My 50 rheem was $1008 all in I cluding tax, removal, blah blah.

I don't know how much to replace the pressure relief valve though. Guess it depends on the cost of the repair compared to the cost of a new tank. Maybe new tank? :dunno:

I'm just happy to have hot showers longer than 3 minutes.

[Strider]

Originally posted by cidley69
Any updates to best company for new 50 gal tank?

My tank is GE, made by Rheem, and is dated 2007. The pressure relief valve started leaking and is getting worse.

Is this a part worth replacing, or a symptom of the tank going bad, and may as well replace whole thing?

I'd say depends on the tank and how well it's been maintained. Do you replace the anode rod every 1-2 years? Drain the tank to flush out the sediment regularly?
Do you have a water softener? this will decrease the life of your tank

Anecdotally, I'd say tanks last from 8-12 years on average - on the higher end or a bit longer if it's well maintained.

If your tank is well maintained and it's something you're comfortable to DIY (and relatively cheap) then fix it. Otherwise I'd be inclined to replace the whole thing. I had a failed gas valve replaced on my tank at 5 years, and ended up replacing the whole tank in year 6 when it started leaking (wasted a couple hundred on the valve).

[suntan]

Even the TOH guys say a hot water tank on average lasts 10 years.

[nzwasp]

Well so far its been a day with my new rheem tank. Install was about an hour as I had already drained the tank and also the guy didnt replace the venting pipe with a new one because he said if I was too have a inspection today it would fail on the furnance piping as its the same stuff. So I will address that at a later date.

I can see the part that people have to replace on rheem tanks and other tanks with intellivents. The gas ignition goes on and off multiple times a day and this is the bit that is required to be serviced. You can order the part from amazon.ca for $20 - I was thinking of ordering it just so I had it on me if I ever do have that issue.

[raceman6135]

Originally posted by cidley69
My tank is GE, made by Rheem, and is dated 2007. The pressure relief valve started leaking and is getting worse.

Is this a part worth replacing, or a symptom of the tank going bad, and may as well replace whole thing?

The part will cost somewhere around $15 to $20 and is very simple to replace yourself. For that price, I would replace it.

My house was built in 1999 and has the original water heater. I purchased this house in 2010, and a couple years ago, I had to replace a leaking T&P valve. No longer leaking, and the water heater still works as good as it ever did.

[A790]

It's worth noting that an '07 hot water heater is not likely to be as efficient as a 2015 model.

[CompletelyNumb]

Originally posted by Strider
Aren't you the guy with the uncle who's an independent plumber and gouged a Beyond member for 2x the cost on a hot water tank?

Edit: I knew this bullshit smelled familiar
http://forums.beyond.ca/st/364200/how-much-did-your-hot-water-tank-cost/




:rofl: Note to self, don't listen to sputnik about plumbing, and stay away from Silcraft.

[jhmed]

Just had Pete the Plumber replace our 40gal tank and we were $885ish after tax.

Woke up to no hot water, couldn't light pilot, didn't wanna fuck around and decided I wanted a new tank. Called Pete The Plumber, told them I had no hot water and wanted a new tank. They asked a couple questions and quoted the price. They came out same day (earlier than the promised time -- bonus!), installed quickly, guy was friendly and did a good job. No complaints here.

[suntan]

Originally posted by A790
It's worth noting that an '07 hot water heater is not likely to be as efficient as a 2015 model. Having changed from an '02 tank to a 2013 model, there was no difference I could see on my utility bill. I'm probably saving pennies per month at most.

[A790]

Originally posted by suntan
Having changed from an '02 tank to a 2013 model, there was no difference I could see on my utility bill. I'm probably saving pennies per month at most.
Weird.

When I replaced my hot water heater from 1998 with a 2014 model I noticed a fairly significant difference.

[speedog]

Originally posted by A790

Weird.

When I replaced my hot water heater from 1998 with a 2014 model I noticed a fairly significant difference.
Did you have a kid move out at the same time?

One less feeder in the house certainly makes a difference.

[A790]

Originally posted by speedog

Did you have a kid move out at the same time?

One less feeder in the house certainly makes a difference.
Nope, the only change was the hot water heater.

[suntan]

Originally posted by A790

Weird.

When I replaced my hot water heater from 1998 with a 2014 model I noticed a fairly significant difference. I can see that happening. There were massive code changes around 2000.

[Nufy]

Bump !!!

What are the recommended plumbers around these days...

My John Woods Pro series pilot light wont stay lit.

I am wondering if I should repair or replace at this point.

Not a single issue after install in 2011 until now...

[The_Penguin]

Bump !!!


My John Woods Pro series pilot light wont stay lit.



I'd replace the thermocouple first. Worth a try.

[ExtraSlow]

Based on my last hot water tank thread, it's always the thermocouple.

[Nufy]

Nope...Pilot light wont light to heat the thermocouple.

[Nufy]

Based on my last hot water tank thread, it's always the thermocouple.

Truer words have never been spoken...

Swapped out the 10 dollar t-couple and all is good again.

It took a bit of surgery due to the location but all is good again.

Now to go check for leaks...(Where's my lighter...)

[ExtraSlow]

I'm not a plumber, but somehow, it's always the thermocouple. I don't get it, but it seems to be true. Glad you found and fixed your issue.

[The_Penguin]

Swapped out the 10 dollar t-couple and all is good again.

Wow who knew?
Good to hear!

[dj_rice]

I'm not a plumber, but somehow, it's always the thermocouple. I don't get it, but it seems to be true. Glad you found and fixed your issue.

For mine, I was getting very low hot water flow, so I changed out the dip tube, which was a beotch to remove as old one was rusted bad. And then I couldn't get it to re-ignite, changed the thermocouple as well, still wouldn't light. Gave up trying to fix it, did ghetto boiled water showers for a few weeks LOL only because I was trying to find a cheap Kijiji guy to supply/install but nobody would call back. Ended up just going to Home Depot, bought a new tank and let them install it (Friesens) $1130 later. I think I chose 9 year warranty

[Mitsu3000gt]

Side note/rant -- wtf is with plumbing companies that will only provide quotes in person with a $70-$150 service call? Sounds like a solid business plan to me... charge people $150 to come to their house, quote $4,000 for a water heater, get asked to gtfo, pocket $150, repeat, profit.

I had the same frustrations. I made a point go with a company who did not play those games, and when every single plumber called me to follow up (you can tell how badly they want their site visit money), I stated that as my reason for using someone else. Complete money grab, it's specifically done so the customer is more likely to green light the job with the plumber already in the home since they are already invested financially. And if you decline, they still get some money and the customer is punished. You an offer to send pictures, videos, sign something to not hold them to their estimate, etc. they don't care - they just want you invested so you agree to do the whole job with them. It's extremely predatory, so fuck that. Weekend rates were more like $300 when I was calling, just to get a quote.

Side note: I talked to more than one plumber who won't even sell John Woods tanks because they cause too many warranty headaches.

[ExtraSlow]

Fucking Clearview charged me $200 service call and quoted me a $5000 water tank. Fuckers.

[bjstare]

Fucking Clearview charged me $200 service call and quoted me a $5000 water tank. Fuckers.

Jesus, that is absolutely outrageous.

[Mitsu3000gt]

Jesus, that is absolutely outrageous.

That's the business model - charge you $100-300 (higher on weekends), then provide you with an outrageous quote that you are likely to accept because you're already $300 in the hole, and they sometimes offer to waive the site fee if you accept their price-gouged job which more than makes up for it on their end.

Every "major" plumbing company that I called operates this way.

[arcticcat522]

Pete the plumber for the win. Getting a new 50 gallon (10yr warranty) installed for 1189. 1139+50 to change the vent from 3" to 4". They where here last week to replace a large chunk of our stack. Half the cost one of the other companies wanted.

[BerserkerCatSplat]

Yeah, I found that Pete's prices were about the lowest around, though in the end I went with Canadian Water Heaters as they were a hair cheaper than Pete and their customer service was excellent.

[Nufy]

I thought about Pete the Plumber if I had to replace mine...but the online reviews for the Rheem brand were less than favorable.
Great if you have a 10 year warranty I guess but there's still the hassle if / when it breaks.