Trailer/Camper question

[Cos]

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[masoncgy]

F-150 isn't really the best vehicle for camper hauling unless it's really small and light weight. I have seen people overhang 8 ft campers on the short box and while I am sure it's okay, it sure looks odd. Of course, it's 3/4 ton trucks that I see doing such, which are better suited to camper hauling.

It's been said before, buy the biggest piece of camping equipment your vehicle can handle properly (don't max out, but say 80% of limit) as you'll never complain about too much space.

Campers suck if you like having a bit of room to stretch out. We had one growing up and while it keeps you warm and dry and off the ground, you don't want to be stuck in one for long periods of time, like during heavy rains or snow.

Sounds like a decent sized bumper pull is going to be the right fit for you. 19-20 feet is a great size. Tows easily and has all the creature comforts and enough room to stretch out!

[Cos]

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[ExtraSlow]

The ford fleet website will list the trailer and bed-load capacity for your specific truck. They have a guide for each model year in each configuration.

If I was you, I'd go with a trailer.

[ExtraSlow]

If budget is a prime concern, you can look a little older. I would have no issues buying a five year old RV. Mine is 19 years old, and it is only recently starting to show it's age. Lots of these units are not used more than ten days a year.

If you plan on going off pavement much, you may want to look into something with good ground clearance, or an "axle flip" conversion. Also, you may want the suspension, alignment and brakes checked out. Standens does this, and I found them great to deal with.

[AndyL]

Campers are a bit tight - but if your like us - really just a place to sleep... maybe escape bug invasions... we have awnings / tarps / etc - even pouring rain we're outside.

that said - you shouldnt put a camper built for an 8' box onto a 6.5' box - main reason center of gravity, weights usually put over axle, a 6.5' bed with an 8' box - cg will be behind axle (think teeter totter, lifts your front end)

bigfoot made some awesome campers for shortbed trucks (im old school - 8' is regular bed), I'd look at one at least some of the 9' range ones are still ½ton haulable. Your glove box will have an obscure "bed capacity" or some such listed - thats what you can haul for camper weight.

for ghost/waiparous, there are advantages to carrying not dragging, truck/trailer combos have a heck of a time with some of the rutted roads (ie end of transalta) truck and camper gets where trailers cant. Ive seen lots of rv parts scattered at the side of a few roads out there ;) bumper pull trailers dont usually have the clearance needed.

still have to watch it with a camper, but the rear jacks on overhangs is easier to eyeball up in a mirror...

[spikerS]

Cos, you are not going to want to be hauling a camper in the back of your truck. most campers are not built to be used in a 1/2 ton, mainly because of their weight. additionally, the 3/4 and 1 tons usually have a stronger frame to mount the belly bars to.

For you and the wife, I would get a bumper pull and keep it without slides and no smaller than 19'. You guys will love having the extra room. Since you won't need a bunk model, you can get one with a full queen dedicated bed. /jealous.

Try to find one with a tandem axle, and if you need ground clearance, you can do an axle flip which virtually costs nothing. If you need more, you can put a couple blocks in, and put bigger tires on. since there is no steering or speedos on trailers, you can put just about any size tires on them. The downfall to this? you will need to change out the stabalizer jacks as they probably will not be long enough anymore to reach the ground and level out the trailer.

additionally, by having a bumper pull, it leaves the box of the truck open to haul a quad, firewood, bikes / whatever. having a camper or 5th wheel takes that away.

[hedge]

I have a truck camper and a 5th wheel, i use the truck camper for camping in the backcountry and the 5th wheel when we go to parks/resorts.

It's just the three of us and we are seriously considering getting rid of the 5th wheel because the camper is just so much easier to park and it's ready to go cause it's on the truck.

As said above, there are very few campers that you will like carrying on a 1/2 ton, probably have to be a popup. Look on your door you should have a sticker saying weight carrying capacity, from that you have to subtract the weight of passengers etc. As you'll find not much room left over.

I have a 1T truck and the capacity is 3450lbs but a half ton will probably be around 1700lbs.

of course it's Alberta and half the rigs on the road are overloaded but if you want to go into BC you may want to watch your weights.

PS: most 8' campers will work in a 6.5' bed depending on the camper, most of the somewhat newer ones are built to handle that. My camper is a 8'10" camper and I have it in my 6.75' truck. I did have to build a riser to clear the cab so the riser gives it some support but I've never had a problem. I actually emailed the manufacturer and they said it was fine for a short bed.

Some will say leave your tailgate on but I take mine off, it gets beat to hell on gravel roads if you leave it on.

[corsvette]

Had a buddy with a similar situation. He ended up getting a 1996 3/4 ton Chev reg cab with a 8ft box AND a really nice camper already set up in the bed (a Bigfoot) The whole package cost him $5800 and they've had it for four years now without any issues. Some good deals out there on complete units and save the wear on your truck, plus the truck/camper costs about half for storage.

Just a thought anyway.....

[Cos]

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[spikerS]

Originally posted by Cos


How big is getting a little too big? I assume a 25'/26' is OK? If I were to go 19' I may wish I went to a 26' quickly. It will be a while until we have kids/dogs but I would like to be able to use this for a while.

Come over and check mine out. it is 22' or so interior. should give you a pretty good idea.

[Unknown303]

SO now you don't like tent trailers?

[Cos]

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[Unknown303]

I guess if you're storing it offsite you might as well go big.

[SOAB]

there is a little yellow sticker on your door jamb that will list your particular trucks payload, axle ratings, tire ratings, etc.

i would definitely look into the size of the holding tanks if you're gonna be "roughing" it. you will have to haul your water in and out so the bigger the tanks, the better.

[ExtraSlow]

Originally posted by spikers
Try to find one with a tandem axle, and if you need ground clearance, you can do an axle flip which virtually costs nothing. If you need more, you can put a couple blocks in, and put bigger tires on. since there is no steering or speedos on trailers, you can put just about any size tires on them. The downfall to this? you will need to change out the stabalizer jacks as they probably will not be long enough anymore to reach the ground and level out the trailer.
Axle flip is pretty simple, and cheap. Standens did mine, and it gained me about five inches. Those older trailers seem pretty low, flipping the axles on my 1994 brought it level with my stock F150 4x4.
I didn't bother replacing any of the stabilizer jacks, I just carry a few chunks of 4x6 to bridge the distance, works great.

[Kavy]

On a side note to Extra Slows comments, I recently redid my back deck stairs and have a rather large amount of Pressure treated wood remaining so If anyone wants/needs wood to use for plates, leveling blocks, tongue blocks or similar let me know as I can cut some up for you (free of course but you have to come pick them up)

[Cos]

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[Cos]

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[Kavy]

A sewer tube setup so you can dump water.
Fill hose.
Rv toilet paper.

Those are my must haves haha

Nice setup!!

[Cos]

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[spikerS]

a sewer tube is a hose you connect to your grey and black tank outlet to drain the holding tanks at the end of a trip.

The fill hose is basically a drinking water safe garden hose to hook your trailer up to the potable water supply.

go 2x6v batteries.

also get a RV specific black tank chemical treatment.

also, RV specific TP. it is more easily broken down and makes it easier to get out of your black tank without clogs.

get a nice RV mat to place under the awning.

See if you can snag a bunch of milk crates. I use them for storing and organizing all my random gear in the storage area.

Wheel chocks and a bunch of 12" pieces of 2X6 to put under the tires to level out the trailer, and to act as a pad under your stabilizing jacks.

if you can, upgrade the propane tanks to 30 pounders.

get a 50 amp and 30 amp dogbone and a heave gauge extension cord.

put a small tool set in as well, and a tube of outdoor silicone.

All I can think of right now.

[Kavy]

Quick List

Power adapter
http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/4/Auto/VehicleAccessories/RVAccessories/PRD~0408408P/Power+Adapter.jsp?locale=en


Rv Sewer Hose Dump Kit
http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/4/Auto/VehicleAccessories/RVAccessories/PRD~0408312P/Rhino+Flex+RV+Sewer+Kit%2C+15-ft..jsp?locale=en

Hose for filling
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Camco-10-Fresh-Water-Hose/14504300

Hitch lock so people dont steal your stuffs (this is a cheap version)
http://www.princessauto.com/pal/en/Security-Locks/Class-V-5-8-in-Locking-Hitch-Pin/8454944.p
http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/4/Auto/Towing/HitchesTrailerAccessories/PRD~0406833P/Universal+Trailer+Hitch+Lock.jsp?locale=en

Treatment pellets
http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/4/Auto/VehicleAccessories/RVAccessories/PRD~0408265P/TST+Blue+Enzyme+Drop-Ins+Toilet+Treatment+10-pk.jsp?locale=en

Wheel Chocks (cheap)
http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/4/Auto/AutoTools/LiftingEquipment/PRD~0090019P/MotoMaster+Heavy+Duty+Wheel+Chock.jsp?locale=en

[ExtraSlow]

A little more expensive, but I much prefer the lee Valley "lightweight hose". Those cheap drinking water hoses annoy me. Although, that's longer than you need for just hooking up to the water tap at the campground, so that might be annoying for some people. I usually dry camp, so I'm filling up from my house, which requires a longer hose.

As for the 6V vs 12V question, really depends on how much power you plan on using. All I use mine for is to run the furnace fan, light for an hour a night, and the water pump. So a 12V nautilus battery from Crappy tire does me just fine. If you are planning on winter camping, or staying out for weeks, it might be worth you while to get the dual 6V setup.

Whichever batteries you get, you'll probably want a better charger for them in the winter or to charge them after a deep discharge. Trying to recharge fully discharged deep cycle batteries with a stander auto charger is at best problematic, at worst, impossible.

[ExtraSlow]

Also, I'll disagree about bothering with the 30 pound propane tanks. I've worked it out, and in my rig, I use less than a pound per night of camping in normal Alberta mountain weather. So two twenty pound tanks gives me more than a month. Since my longest trip is about two weeks, that's wild overkill. Maybe if you have a bigger rig, use the RVQ a lot, or are camping in the dead of winter you might need more capacity, buit for most of us, probably not.

What's the dry and Gross weight of that sportsman? I like the layout, and that's about what I'll be looking for in a little while.

[Cos]

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[spikerS]

seriously, go with the 2x6v route.

Costco sells the 6v golf cart batteries for $115 each plus the core. Apparently, these things are so close to being trojans that they might as well be, for $150 cheaper.

and I like the 30lb tanks. Fill once, and you are good for the season without a second though, and maybe even the second. You are going to want a RV BBQ for cooking steaks and such as the stove inside is ok, but it is nice to be outside.

CT sells 3 or 4 portable BBQs. I want to get one and tie it in. Last thing I want is to be inside cooking on a nice day, when everyone is outside drinking beers.

[ExtraSlow]

Yeah, it is nice to cook outside as much as possible. I throw my old coleman stove on the picnic table, but something tied into the propane of the trailer is a much better idea. If I ever get in a "big" trailer, an outdoor kitchen will be on my list for sure.

I'm good for the season on a single 20lb tank. so the second one would be backup.

[Cos]

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[codetrap]

Nice trailer. After talking it over with spikers, the wife and I are looking at one with a very similar design.

I got a hookup for my BBQ that ties into the trailer propane system external hookup. Works wonderfully. Another thing to look at is changing out all the lights to LED. Those little glass bulbs are quite the power suckers when you're dry camping, and the LED bulbs online are cheap. A plastic folding table for cooking outside is always handy as well.

[redblack]

Cool trailer, im so jelly right now.

you should do a group camp trip with codetrap and spikers

[Unknown303]

And Cos your an EET for the love of god. Just run some numbers about the difference between a since 12v and 2x6v. It's the foot print. of course two 6v will have for ah. It's because they take up twice the space. and weigh twice as much.

[benyl]

Cos is a DINK.

[spikerS]

Originally posted by redblack
Cool trailer, im so jelly right now.

you should do a group camp trip with codetrap and spikers

Codetrap's family and mine are headed out next week.

[codetrap]

Based on your photos, is this the exact model?

http://www.kz-rv.com/sportsmen-show-stopper/S242SBHSS.html

http://www.kz-rv.com/sportsmen-show-stopper/images/floorplans/2013/Show-Stopper/KZ13_Sportsmen_S242SBHSS.gif

[Cos]

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[Kavy]

Originally posted by Cos
[B] Plan is to buy a set of these actually. Doubles as a lock so you cant steal it either. $90 or something

http://b.vimeocdn.com/ts/120/284/12028486_640.jpg



The X-Chocks are great but if you plan on using them at times other then just the campsite they will go missing. I had 2 sets stolen from me because I would put them on when the trailer was in storage. Even the Pad lock ones are rather easy to steal (all the padlock does is not allow you to use a socket on them, many other tools will still work like a wrench) so I would recommend buying the regular versions and only using them at the campsite and getting a hitch lock for security.

One of the most important things about the Xchocks is that you put them on dead last. Make sure that the trailer is completely level and that all your stabilizers are down then install the Xchocks. This will greatly reduce the sway in the trailer and will insure that you get the best stability possible, when setup right Xchock can almost completely eliminate the back and forth sway trailers have when walking around inside. I see many people put them on first then start leveling their trailer and this completely defeats the stability bonus of them, all you will benefit from is the anti-roll features.

[spikerS]

we should do a group buy on the x-chocks. I want to get a set as well.

[codetrap]

I still like the tent trailer. However, with another child on the way, combined with the fact that we often take Rae's friend camping, we're going to need more space. In my mind, the TT was always an interim step to get Rae really into camping. I always figured we'd buy one, use it for a couple of years, sell it and then go for a bigger unit that required a lot less time to set up. Right now, it's about 45 minutes to go from arrival to fully set up and able to cook, which really does kindof suck. Setup/takedown in the rain also sucks. This was especially highlighted when I went camping with my brother in the fall last year and he was set up in about 10 minutes, then came over to help me finish my setup. Rae and I are planning on taking the trailer across the country in the next couple of years, and the thought of having do that setup/takedown every day really doesn't appeal to me. I'd much rather just load the fridge, pack an overnight bag and we're off. With my hip surgery happening so fast, I had to cancel about 3.5 weeks worth the trips this summer, so I figure we'll get our use out of it.

On the plus side, with all the upgrades I've done to the TT like installing the solar charging system, upgrading the electrical, installing a fridge venting system to double the efficiency of the fridge, sealing up the bottom etc, I'm pretty sure I can get a decent buck for it. Same with the Mitsu with all the add's I've done to increase the interior and upgrade it for towing. The timing is kindof funny too, because I just got the ECU programmer for the Mitsu a couple of days ago, so I can finally fix the few things that really bugged me, like the doors not auto-locking, or being able to close all the windows with the FOB, or turn on the fog lights. Or turn off the TMPS for for the winter tires. Oh well. Pretty sure I can sell that pretty quick. :)

Oh, if you're looking for a really good storage lot, Sid's RV up by Metis and Stoney is a decent price, and their lot is very well done with easy access. His prices are also pretty competitive for something that's so close. I would recommend against country hills storage, as their lot had a lot of standing water with soft earth, and it's a working farm, so there's farm equipment/people roaming around all the time.

[Kavy]

Originally posted by Cos
I have a portable BBQ, just not one that comes with the trailer, and I am not sure if I have outdoor propane ties.

Something I should check I guess.

Only reason we didnt want the full 'outdoor' kitchen is 1/2 of the crap doesnt work unless you are plugged in and they arent sealed that well so you are cleaning it when you arrive and when you leave.

x100 on outdoor kitchens

Outdoor Kitchens are way more hassle then good. They are place them on the back side of the axle (which bounces around like crazy when towing) so everything in the fridge gets thrown around and 9 times out of 10 you will break bottles or cans will burst, hooray everyone loves to go camping to clean kitchens!
Cos is completely right on the power consumption, adding a second fridge (because the extra two steps it takes to go inside your trailer to the fridge is such a hassle lol) will draw considerably more power/gas. I will also echo the poor sealing, expect a layer of dirt if you drive on any gravel over everything in the outdoor kitchen. Just say no, that space is better used for an extra bunk or larger main fridge/kitchen.

Cos on the outdoor propane hookup it is important to remember the trailers use a low pressure system so if you do have a connection you have to use a low pressure stove, most camp stoves are high pressure and will not work. There are some out there however that can be modified to work.

If you do not have an outdoor propane connection it is rather easy to add one. I have added several on friends trailers and previous owned trailers. I use the line to the fridge and added a T connector on it with a reducer and quick connect. Bought the T-Connector online and the reducer and quick connect from lowes.
The upside is the access on most trailers is right on the curb side of the trailer in an access panel so after its hooked up all you do is connect the hose and your cooking.


Originally posted by spikers

CT sells 3 or 4 portable BBQs. I want to get one and tie it in. Last thing I want is to be inside cooking on a nice day, when everyone is outside drinking beers.

See above :) I can help you on it is as well. Most of the portable with stand BBQ's are high flow and wont work with the current trailer system but its possible to work a system to tie into the front of the RV right at the tanks to allow for a high flow to be used.


[i]
Oh, if you're looking for a really good storage lot, Sid's RV up by Metis and Stoney is a decent price, and their lot is very well done with easy access. His prices are also pretty competitive for something that's so close. I would recommend against country hills storage, as their lot had a lot of standing water with soft earth, and it's a working farm, so there's farm equipment/people roaming around all the time. [/B]

What is his price? I am currently storing out at 22X storage and the deal is very good considering its gravel (grass = mice in your trailer) has a locking pinpad gate, 2 huge dogs, a bunch of mice eating cats roaming around.

[Kavy]

Originally posted by spikers
we should do a group buy on the x-chocks. I want to get a set as well.

Im in, I need another set as like I previously mentioned mine walked away.

[codetrap]

Kavy, I paid for a year at a time and it was in the $500-600 range. He was running deals to fill the lot, so it would pay to give him a call to see for yourself.

[SOAB]

my trailer doesn't have the outdoor kitchen but it does have a small drink and condiment fridge that we use alot.

my trailer also has the propane connection at the back for a RVQ so what i did was get one of these

http://www.campers-village.com/39283/Pro-60-2-Burner-Cook-Stove/

and i had a 15 foot low pressure propane hose made up with the correct connections for both ends. works like a charm!

i also have the X-chocks and find that they help with limiting the movement of the trailer when we are parked.

no way i would leave them on my trailer at the storage lot though. i worry enough about the dual-cam sway system that is easily stolen.

i was lucky enough to get a pull-through site at my storage lot so it makes dropping off and picking up a 1 person job. it is the place just past 84st on 17 ave S.E.

coded gates, gravel parking and the also have rodent control come out and check traps every month. i pay about $60/month for a 40 foot pull through site. i think that is a decent rate.

[hedge]

Originally posted by Kavy


The X-Chocks are great but if you plan on using them at times other then just the campsite they will go missing. I had 2 sets stolen from me because I would put them on when the trailer was in storage. Even the Pad lock ones are rather easy to steal (all the padlock does is not allow you to use a socket on them, many other tools will still work like a wrench) so I would recommend buying the regular versions and only using them at the campsite and getting a hitch lock for security.


I have the x-chocks as well, not sure what you mean about the locks. If I put a padlock on mine you cannot undo them because the padlock stops the bolt from turning. It would still be easy enough to use bolt cutters on the pad lock though.

I don't trust them as the only chocks though, they are sold really as a stabilizer. If you do a pull test they will pop out from between the tires pretty easy. Also if you've towed for any distance where your tires get hot they will need to be tightened up after the tires cool.

[SOAB]

^^ I use regular wheel chocks as well in addition to the x-chocks.

[suntan]

Buy gloves. Lots of disposable latex gloves.

[Supa Dexta]

F rv toilet paper.. Just dont leave your black tank open if your hooked to a sewer site, just dump when you leave or are full. I throw a little orange chemical in there..cant remember the name, its from walmart. But otherwise theres always lots of water and it flushes fine with regular, easy on the ass toilet paper.

[Kavy]

Originally posted by Supa Dexta
F rv toilet paper.. Just dont leave your black tank open if your hooked to a sewer site, just dump when you leave or are full. I throw a little orange chemical in there..cant remember the name, its from walmart. But otherwise theres always lots of water and it flushes fine with regular, easy on the ass toilet paper.

Good RV toilet paper is actually pretty decent and doesn't feel like the cheapo $1 per 4 browneye sandpaper.

http://www.principiadialectica.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/sandpaper-tp.jpg


And these are the drops your talking about, I also use them and they are fantastic.
http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/4/Auto/VehicleAccessories/RVAccessories/PRD~0408436P/RV+Toilet+Treatment+Drop-Ins.jsp?locale=en

[codetrap]

Originally posted by suntan
Buy gloves. Lots of disposable latex gloves. I also keep a normal pair of rubberized gloves, and a plug tester. I've been zapped 4 times now from improperly, or not at all grounded campsite plugs. 2 of them were from touching the side of my camper after getting plugged in. Nothing quite like stepping off the side of the trailer into the wet grass in the middle of the night on the way to the shitter and getting zapped when you become the ground.

[Cos]

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[Kavy]

Looks great cos nice setup.

I would imagine you can correct that sqwat with some adjustments.

[Cos]

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[FraserB]

Looks wicked! The 2" blocks should level it right out.

Little tip for backing that I've always used. One hand on the bottom of the wheel and turn in the direction you want the back of the trailer to go, always worked better than other backing techniques for me.

[ExtraSlow]

I've learned it's sometimes better to send the wife and kids on an errand and back the whole rig up without a spotter. Getting in and out of the truck a dozen times is less stressful than trying to deal with that.

Although, way worse than my wife is my brother, I just can't communicate with that guy.

[SR54RNR]

Originally posted by Cos


I now know why they say backing up a trailer is a test of marriage. We weren't very nice to each other tonight. "Go straight, go straight!" "I have to turn the fucking truck first before I can go straight!" "STOP!" "FUCK" Hahaha



simple... "cut it" or "chase it". if your spotter wants you to jackknife more, then they yell "cut it". if your spotter wants you to straighten the truck and trailer out they yell "chase it"

[AE92_TreunoSC]

Why not add some springs for strength instead of leveling blocks?

[C_Dave45]

Originally posted by FraserB
Little tip for backing that I've always used. One hand on the bottom of the wheel and turn in the direction you want the back of the trailer to go, always worked better than other backing techniques for me.
It's amazing how much this little tip helps.
I have a couple of FRS radios in the trailer that we use when we're getting set up in the campground. Wife goes back into the spot and directs me on the radio. No yelling, no "WHAAAT?".....they work great.

It's just practice though. You'll get better each time. Now I can practically back up down the street, around the corner and parallel park my 48' truck and trailer inside a 30' opening! ;)

As for outdoor kitchens: I do almost ALL our cooking outside. Wifey might do a little on the stove inside, as well as she uses the oven to make cakes and apple crisps, etc inside. Nothing like warm baked goodies for late nights around the fireplace.

Our Kitchen:

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o312/CalgaryDave/Trailer%20pics/P7170034.jpg

[Cos]

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[Supa Dexta]

Take the time on a non vacation trip day, and just play around with backing it up.. I grew up on a farm, so I back stuff up all day long.. Plus B trains, double hay wagons.. you name it. The only way to get comfortable is to do it over and over.. Plus with these trailers you have to remember the overhang over your back axles.. Your rear end is going to get over faster than your wheels turn and faster then a truck can keep up usually, so small adjustments are key... Same as with the bigger trailers, it will swing out into traffic and parked cars more so than a flat deck or something with your axles right under the rear.

[codetrap]

Looks nice man. :)

[spikerS]

biggest thing to remember: FRONT END SWAY!

you will be so busy watching your mirrors, that you will forget the front of your truck swings around a lot too, and it is pretty easy to smash up a fender or rip a bumper off on a tree when backing into a site.

Small adjustments, and dont be afraid to just stop and look around and make sure you are not going to hit anything.

[ExtraSlow]

And when backing up, take a look UP behind you. I've seen several people wreck the gutters on their front garage because they only look at the bumper of the trailer. Sounds stupid, but it happens all the time.

[spikerS]

Originally posted by Cos
A little bigger than I thought but.....

http://i1190.photobucket.com/albums/z455/thecosworth/IMG_20130801_170304_zpse451ad76.jpg



just an FYI, you should be able to level that out by properly setting up that WD hitch. You don't need the leveling blocks at all.

[SJW]

Originally posted by spikers


just an FYI, you should be able to level that out by properly setting up that WD hitch. You don't need the leveling blocks at all.

Agreed. Pull up a couple of chain links on the WD.

[C_Dave45]

Originally posted by ExtraSlow
And when backing up, take a look UP behind you. I've seen several people wreck the gutters on their front garage because they only look at the bumper of the trailer. Sounds stupid, but it happens all the time.

Hahaha....Yup! :cry:

[spikerS]

Originally posted by SJW


Agreed. Pull up a couple of chain links on the WD.

that and adjusting the ball hight on the hitch as well.

[C_Dave45]

Originally posted by spikers


Originally posted by SJW


Agreed. Pull up a couple of chain links on the WD.

that and adjusting the ball hight on the hitch as well.

What I do when attaching the hitch and bars is this:

Lower the coupler down onto the ball, but stop when it's about 2 inches from seated...(just barely covering the ball)
Then attach your bars and cinch them into place, so they actually "lift" the vehicle and the ball up into the coupler.
Then finish lowering the jack completely.

[spikerS]

Originally posted by C_Dave45


that and adjusting the ball hight on the hitch as well.

What I do when attaching the hitch and bars is this:

Lower the coupler down onto the ball, but stop when it's about 2 inches from seated...(just barely covering the ball)
Then attach your bars and cinch them into place, so they actually "lift" the vehicle and the ball up into the coupler.
Then finish lowering the jack completely. [/B][/QUOTE]

that can work.

best way to set everything up is, find level ground, and park the truck and trailer on it, and uncouple everything.

level out the trailer so that it is 100% level front to back. then, go to the coupler, and measure from the top of the coupler, down to the ground and record that measurement.

Next, install the hitch on the truck, and measure from the top of the ball on the hitch, to the ground. Adjust the hight and tilt of the ball on the hitch until it equals the hight you got from your trailer.

after that, measure from the top of your front and rear wheel wells to the ground and record those numbers.

NOW, hitch up your trailer to your truck so that the truck is completely supporting the trailer. install the spring bars, and decrease the number of links exposed until you have a level trailer again. once you have achieved this, measure the wheel wells again, you want these measurements to now be within an inch of where they were before.

[hedge]

It looks to me like he has it pulled up about as much as he can, I think the angle of the bars has to be adjusted at the hitch head. There's lots of adjustments on these things and it's a bit of an art form to get them adjusted correctly.

[ExtraSlow]

I used a totally different method for adjusting my bars. Weight the rig with the WD unattached at the cCAT scale at the husky truckstop on barlow, that gives drive, steer and trailer weights. then did two more runs with the WD in two different positions. That got me so that I'm moving 400 lbs from rear axle to front on the truck, and the whole getup is pretty level.

Maybe with a larger trailer it would be harder to set up, but I found this method pretty easy.

[Go4Long]

Anyone know a place/person that rents a travel trailer for a reasonable rate? I want to try out camping with a trailer before I go out and buy one...just picked up a half ton and thinking of going with the trailer route.

[Supa Dexta]

Also something to keep in mind - dont worry about holding people up. Driving down the road, either for power or conditions, backup up, turning, having an extra look.. An extra minute for me is worth a lot less headache of rushing, or smashing stuff. People can wait, fk 'em.

[Cos]

.

[SOAB]

i'd say the cheapest way is to buy a used trailer for under $2000. use it for a year and see if you like it. if so, sell it for what you paid or maybe a little less and upgrade.

i bought my first trailer for $1800 and sold it 2 years later for $1700.

[spikerS]

Originally posted by SOAB
i'd say the cheapest way is to buy a used trailer for under $2000. use it for a year and see if you like it. if so, sell it for what you paid or maybe a little less and upgrade.

i bought my first trailer for $1800 and sold it 2 years later for $1700.

exactly. Bought my first for $500, sold it for $800. Bought my second for $1400, sold it a year later for $2500.

Make sure you like camping first before you invest a bunch of money into it.

[spike98]

Originally posted by spikers


exactly. Bought my first for $500, sold it for $800. Bought my second for $1400, sold it a year later for $2500.

Make sure you like camping first before you invest a bunch of money into it.

x2

Picked up a '84 Travelaire for $2k, used it for a season, then sold it for $4k. That turned into an ok down payment on something new.

I wasn't convinced i would use a trailer quite enough to justify it until i picked one up. I found it was easier to go camping on a moments notice when your stuff is already packed and ready to go.

[Kavy]

Originally posted by Go4Long
Anyone know a place/person that rents a travel trailer for a reasonable rate? I want to try out camping with a trailer before I go out and buy one...just picked up a half ton and thinking of going with the trailer route.

Toss me a PM and we can discuss, I might be able to rent you mine for a weekend as long as it doesn't fall into a weekend I am heading out.

[Cos]

.

[C_Dave45]

Originally posted by Cos
So have been out and really enjoying our trailer. We're going out this weekend as well. When I went to go and get it today I didnt realize quite how cold it was in there. I have it booked in for winterizing after the thanksgiving long weekend (long story, warranty work and they are charging the same as my trailer place) but now I am a little worried about getting it to thanksgiving without getting any damage.

How do you guys suggest i bleed the lines after we camp this weekend so that there isnt enough water in there to worry about it?

How much are they charging you to "winterize" it? Just go to any of the RV forums, you'll get a bunch of detailed methods on winterizing. (some guys blow lines out with air, others use antifreeze, etc)

Takes me about half hour and a couple bottles of RV antifreeze.

Basically:

With pump turned OFF: open up all your taps
open up the "drain valve" on your fresh water tank and drain.
There will be a "drain valve" for your lines too...usually under the sink somewhere (at the lowest point). Drain until empty.
take the drain plug out of your hot water tank, drain it, and then close it off from the "loop" (so antifreeze doesn't get into it at next step)
close drain valve on fresh water tank, and lines, and fill your tank with a couple gallons of antifreeze.
Close all taps and turn on pump.
One by one, open up each tap and turn on pump until antifreeze comes through.
Turn off pump.
Take your batteries home with you (if you store) or have some sort of trickle charge on them


Done.

But you're safe for awhile yet. We're heading out Thanksgiving weekend, so I wont winterize till after that. But I've had everything freeze up for a day and still didn't damage anything. I cranked the furnace on for a few hours til lines thawed, then did my winterizing. No problems.

[Cos]

.

[ExtraSlow]

I haven't winterized mine yet either. Last year, i broke one thing, and discovered two other things that were wrecked when i tried to winterize it, so I ended up having hobo camper country winterize it for me while they fixed it up. I can't recall what the cost to winterize was, but I'm pretty sure it was less than the $80 mentioned.

I plan on doing it myself this year, and if I do it right, should be 8L or less of antifreeze. I also have access to an air compressor this time, but somehow, seeing that pink stuff come out the taps is reassuring.

[spikerS]

I still gotta winterize mine. Any places got a good deal on anti-freeze?

[codetrap]

Originally posted by spikers
I still gotta winterize mine. Any places got a good deal on anti-freeze?

http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/4/Auto/CoolingHeating/AntifreezeCoolants/PRD~0639926P/Prestone%AE+Plumbing%2BRV+Antifreeze.jsp?locale=en

['93 SR-V]

Originally posted by spikers
I still gotta winterize mine. Any places got a good deal on anti-freeze?

Crappy tire has the 10L jugs of Prestone for $12.XX right now.

[C_Dave45]

Originally posted by '93 SR-V


Crappy tire has the 10L jugs of Prestone for $12.XX right now.

You need "RV antifreeze". Totally different product.

*edit* my bad. Didnt realize Prestone made plumbers angifreeze.
Good deal indeed.

[ExtraSlow]

Did the winterization on my rig today. Just a heads-up the 10L jugs of $12 aren't a great deal since the 4L jugs are $4.50.
I did my small trailer with less than two 4L jugs. Probably could have done it with one 4L, but I'm a bit sloppy.
Lugged the battery into my basement, fuck me that thing is heavy, it's the biggest motomaster Nautilus battery they make, and it must be good, because it weighs about 50 lbs. I always think the flimsy little handle is going to break off, but it hasn't yet.

My solar setup never fully charges that battery, so I'm charging it properly before putting it to bed for the winter. If I had some more give-a-shit, I could probably re-wire my solar setup to more closely follow the recommendations that someone recently posted posted, but I'm not terribly energetic. That and I never run out of charge, since my rig has very few things that use power, just the lights and furnace, no TV, no stereo, no AC or microwave.

Anywhoo, anyone out there who hasn't done this yet, better get at it before you run out of nice weather.

[SJW]

Originally posted by ExtraSlow
Did the winterization on my rig today. Just a heads-up the 10L jugs of $12 aren't a great deal since the 4L jugs are $4.50.
I did my small trailer with less than two 4L jugs. Probably could have done it with one 4L, but I'm a bit sloppy.
Lugged the battery into my basement, fuck me that thing is heavy, it's the biggest motomaster Nautilus battery they make, and it must be good, because it weighs about 50 lbs. I always think the flimsy little handle is going to break off, but it hasn't yet.

My solar setup never fully charges that battery, so I'm charging it properly before putting it to bed for the winter. If I had some more give-a-shit, I could probably re-wire my solar setup to more closely follow the recommendations that someone recently posted posted, but I'm not terribly energetic. That and I never run out of charge, since my rig has very few things that use power, just the lights and furnace, no TV, no stereo, no AC or microwave.

Anywhoo, anyone out there who hasn't done this yet, better get at it before you run out of nice weather.

I have two of those damn batteries to haul in. I feel the same way about the handle. Winterizing my boat tomorrow and i'll haul out two more of them. I could run the house on 4 of those damn things.

[hedge]

I have dual 6v's I think they are even heavier with the heavier plates.

[spikerS]

here is a question. If I leave my trailer plugged in over the winter, do I really need to remove the 2 6v batteries since they will always be charging? Or is it still better to bring them into the house?

[C_Dave45]

Originally posted by spikers
here is a question. If I leave my trailer plugged in over the winter, do I really need to remove the 2 6v batteries since they will always be charging? Or is it still better to bring them into the house?

As long as they're kept charged like this, you don't need to bring them in. I keep my trailer plugged in all winter.
You don't bring your car battery in, right?

[spikerS]

Originally posted by C_Dave45


As long as they're kept charged like this, you don't need to bring them in. I keep my trailer plugged in all winter.
You don't bring your car battery in, right?

That was my logic too. But then again, this is my first experience with 6v setups and keeping the trailer plugged in, so figgured it was best to ask first. LOL

[ExtraSlow]

If it was my trailer, and I had the option to keep it plugged in, I would still bring the batteries in.
Outside, if for any reason, your charging system fails or get turned off (power outage, circuit breaker trips etc) then the batteries will slowly loose charge and could freeze. Not to mention, you are wasting eelctricity to keep the battery charger running 24/7 for 8 months. Even if it's only 0.5A or something, that's still a decent amount of energy.

Inside, the battery can stay on the charger, or you can charge it once in the fall like me, and no matter what happens, the battery won't freeze if something goes wrong.

Maybe I'm paranoid, but I've frozen a few car batteries in my life, and I just don't want to go through that ever again.

[Cos]

.

[hedge]

I take my batteries out of the trailer and put them on my work bench. I then charge them once a month. I pesonally would never trust the trailer charger enough to leave them plugged in all winter.

A charged battery won't freeze but if it does drop it's charge it can freeze. I also take them off so they don't get stolen, especially on a travel trailer where they sit out in the open. Mine's a 5th wheel but I guess I just got in the habit when I had the TT.

[C_Dave45]

Originally posted by ExtraSlow
If it was my trailer, and I had the option to keep it plugged in, I would still bring the batteries in.
Outside, if for any reason, your charging system fails or get turned off (power outage, circuit breaker trips etc) then the batteries will slowly loose charge and could freeze. Not to mention, you are wasting eelctricity to keep the battery charger running 24/7 for 8 months. Even if it's only 0.5A or something, that's still a decent amount of energy.

Inside, the battery can stay on the charger, or you can charge it once in the fall like me, and no matter what happens, the battery won't freeze if something goes wrong.

Maybe I'm paranoid, but I've frozen a few car batteries in my life, and I just don't want to go through that ever again.

That's not bad advice, and my wife still harps on me about doing that.
I may....our trailer sits in the driveway, so either way is no hassle.
The first winter, I bought two brand new Trojan T-106's ($400) Left them on the trailer, but DIDN'T plug it in. Yup...burst both batteries! :cry:
So I bought two more (yes another $400) but since then, I've kept it plugged in all the time. No problems. But she still wants me to bring them in this year.

[AndyL]

Solar panels and charge controller... Top off the cells at winterizing - quick verify in January's inevitable week long chinook to make sure they don't need a top off...

It works for me ;)

[C_Dave45]

Someone on here had swapped the OEM stereo for a nice audio deck into their trailer. (Can't seem to find it).

My question is; how did you hook up the power to the deck? Since the power leads are always "hot", and the newer decks don't really have a "power off" switch, just a "stand by" switch...the deck is always completely lit up. Did you put in an axillary switch for power?

[spikerS]

Originally posted by C_Dave45
Someone on here had swapped the OEM stereo for a nice audio deck into their trailer. (Can't seem to find it).

My question is; how did you hook up the power to the deck? Since the power leads are always "hot", and the newer decks don't really have a "power off" switch, just a "stand by" switch...the deck is always completely lit up. Did you put in an axillary switch for power?

If I was installing it into a trailer, I would just wire an inline switch on the power line, but most decks have their own power buttons.

[C_Dave45]

Ah ok, that's what I was going to do. I thought there might've been some sort of trick to accomplish the same thing.

The deck I put in there is a JVC and it is either on or "standby" and the whole faceplate is completely "lit up". Even if I take the faceplate off, there's still lighting to the CD eject button. I'd rather not have any current going through there at all.