PDA

View Full Version : Can a brake job ever be worth $1000 dollars?



8baller8
07-11-2013, 05:09 PM
I just got quoted for $1100 to get brakes that make my vehicle "drivable" according to the mechanic. Previous, the brakes were really bad and my truck wasn't drivable. I drove on my brakes when I heard the typical squealing metal on metal, sharp braked one time and completely fucked my brakes. I basically had to drive home going 20km/hr because they were so bad. He's quoting the $1100 as calipers, rotors, and front pads. Previous, front pads and rotors would cost about 450~

Anyway, is the mechanic shop pulling my chain or what? Can some knowledgeable mechanics please PM me or post in this thread. Admittedly, I don't know much about vehicles, all i know is I'll be driving this thing for the next 6 months until I buy a new vehicle. So I'd like to be as cheap as possible.

Any other advice also appreciated.

Kloubek
07-11-2013, 05:12 PM
A full rotor and pad combination plus labor can easily be $1100 depending on the vehicle. Especially if you f'd anything up.

Twin_Cam_Turbo
07-11-2013, 05:12 PM
Hell yes, brakes can be a lot more than that depending on the vehicle. I priced out a brake job for a 2011 Cadillac CTS-V yesterday with GM stuff and it was $3500 for just pads and rotors front and rear.

Graham_A_M
07-11-2013, 05:13 PM
I think you should ask why it needs new calipers. Those usually never need replacing unless their seized, but if that was the case you wouldn't have any brakes at all, or ( this is what happened to me with these unreliable shit box mazda's back in the day) the caliper would seize in the engaged position, so you likely wont be going anywhere.
Rotors and pads are typical wear items. Calipers sure aren't.

FWIW you shouldn't EVER let your brake pads get to the point where its metal on metal contact with the rotor. Thats when things get considerably more costly since at best the rotors will have to be machined until their uniformly flat again. A lot of the time you'll need new rotors at that point. I suspect what may have happened is the pistons in the calipers may have been so far pushed out due to an almost lack of brake pads, is that they may have been damaged at that point.

Also, if you do in fact need new calipers, $1100 isn't overly costly.
With the factory Brembro's on my car, I cringe at how much that would cost if i was in your shoes. :nut:

JRSC00LUDE
07-11-2013, 05:13 PM
Originally posted by 8baller8
Any other advice also appreciated.

Here's a piece of advice, have a moderator remove "baller" from your username. :rofl:

shadowz
07-11-2013, 05:13 PM
Calipers are a major cost in comparison to pads and rotors not to mention the necessity of bleeding the brakes post caliper install

8baller8
07-11-2013, 05:30 PM
Any way to know the calipers need to be replaced simply based on driving the vehicle? I knew the brakes were pretty bad, but once I made that sharp turn it felt like I really did brake something bad.

I'm thinking I'm just going to pony up and pay the $1100 dollars, even though it's a beater truck.

What

carson blocks
07-11-2013, 05:38 PM
Originally posted by 8baller8


I'm thinking I'm just going to pony up and pay the $1100 dollars, even though it's a beater truck.


Old beater trucks don't usually have insane parts prices. Specifically what vehicle are you talking about?

Have you priced the parts out on RockAuto or similar?

A year or so back, I helped someone fix their car for around 1/4 of the dealership's quote by getting the parts from RockAuto (all decent name-brand parts, just not OEM), and getting an independent shop that didn't mind working with customer supplied parts to do the work (no garage at the time).

TQuon
07-11-2013, 05:40 PM
You already know you need pads and rotors. Just ask the mechanic shop to explain why you need calipers and go see them for yourself if you still don't believe them.

Rat Fink
07-11-2013, 05:49 PM
.

bourge73
07-11-2013, 05:53 PM
Go see Ravi and Gary at Minute Muffler on 32nd for a second opinion please.

e31
07-11-2013, 06:44 PM
Originally posted by 8baller8
I'm thinking I'm just going to pony up and pay the $1100 dollars, even though it's a beater truck.

Some people can take advice, some people have to learn the hard way. Others think money can absolve them from using their head.

8baller8
07-11-2013, 07:27 PM
Is installing calipers myself an easy fix? I'm thinking I'll get them to do the front pads/rotors while I install the calipers. I just find it hard to believe that a brake job is going to cost me $1000. I think they are taking me to the cleaners.

HiTempguy1
07-11-2013, 07:40 PM
Originally posted by 8baller8
Is installing calipers myself an easy fix? I'm thinking I'll get them to do the front pads/rotors while I install the calipers. I just find it hard to believe that a brake job is going to cost me $1000. I think they are taking me to the cleaners.

TELL US WHAT YOUR VEHICLE IS!

:banghead:

In all honesty, I'd offer to do them if I was in Calgary for a case of beer... replacing calipers, rotors, and pads is typically (TYPICALLY mind you) is like a 2 hour job tops if you take your time (including bleeding). Keep in mind, you'll need a friend to help bleed the brakes after you replace the calipers. :dunno:

legendboy
07-11-2013, 07:47 PM
what kind, how old and mileage on your vehicle will help us dig a little deeper

frozenrice
07-11-2013, 08:03 PM
If your brakes look like this, please don't question your mechanic and just pay it.…
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v219/frozenrice/XlrLp.jpg

BokCh0y
07-11-2013, 08:15 PM
Originally posted by JRSC00LUDE


Here's a piece of advice, have a moderator remove "baller" from your username. :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: - quoted for awesomeness :thumbsup:

Yeah brakes can be $1100 easily - my old RX was about $2500 for rotors, pads, brake shims and labor. My IS was $800 just for the front pads and rotors.

sputnik
07-12-2013, 07:42 AM
Originally posted by Graham_A_M
I think you should ask why it needs new calipers.

This was my first thought.

Calipers can easily be rebuilt in the shop if they are sticky.

My Honda Accord was recently done for ~$700 and that was new rotors, pads and 2 of the calipers being rebuilt.

Aleks
07-12-2013, 07:48 AM
Originally posted by BokCh0y
:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: - quoted for awesomeness :thumbsup:

Yeah brakes can be $1100 easily - my old RX was about $2500 for rotors, pads, brake shims and labor. My IS was $800 just for the front pads and rotors.

And people always complain how BMWs are expensive to maintain.

$500 for rotors/pads/sensors installed at Calgary BMW on a 335i :dunno:

CD007
07-12-2013, 08:01 AM
Pads and rotors were almost 1000 for my my H2, parts alone.

Twin_Cam_Turbo
07-12-2013, 08:09 AM
Originally posted by Aleks


And people always complain how BMWs are expensive to maintain.

$500 for rotors/pads/sensors installed at Calgary BMW on a 335i :dunno:

Most maintenance on the non M cars is actually cheaper than Audi/Mercedes/Lexus I find.

BokCh0y
07-12-2013, 08:40 AM
Originally posted by BokCh0y
:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: - quoted for awesomeness :thumbsup:

Yeah brakes can be $1100 easily - my old RX was about $2500 for rotors, pads, brake shims and labor. My IS was $800 just for the front pads and rotors.

Sorry, meant $800 for front rotor and pads along with labour, my bad.

dirtsniffer
07-12-2013, 11:09 AM
Originally posted by 8baller8
Is installing calipers myself an easy fix? I'm thinking I'll get them to do the front pads/rotors while I install the calipers. I just find it hard to believe that a brake job is going to cost me $1000. I think they are taking me to the cleaners.

Wait, so you're going to get them to do the rotors and pads, and then you're going to take it all apart again to replace the calipers?

Please don't try to do this yourself.

8baller8
07-12-2013, 10:34 PM
Just spent $1100 on my new brakes. Feels shitty because the most I've ever spent was about ~$400. Ah well, new brakes that are safe to drive. They feel pretty good. Talk about an expensive fix though.

Sugarphreak
07-12-2013, 11:25 PM
...

tomt64
07-13-2013, 12:44 PM
Originally posted by Sugarphreak
^^ I don't blame you, brake jobs are ridiculously expensive for some reason. I got a quote for just the rear brake pads recently, was like 650$... give me a break. The pads are maybe 75$ at the very worst, 120$ for premium rotors, and it is a 20 minute job. I don't know how some of these places can get away charging that much for what should be easy routine work. :dunno:

I would love to see you install rear brakes in 20 minutes, starting from when you drive the car in the shop. An experienced tech is not going to be able to do it in that time unless he does a complete hack job.

revelations
07-13-2013, 12:57 PM
Originally posted by 8baller8
Just spent $1100 on my new brakes. Feels shitty because the most I've ever spent was about ~$400. Ah well, new brakes that are safe to drive. They feel pretty good. Talk about an expensive fix though.

It might "feel" shitty but brakes are consumables and need to be replaced at some point.

Was the 400$ a simple front brake repair?

It has to be relative to the work done which, since most people dont have a clue as to the difference between a DISC and a CALIPER, they will naturally get upset.

revelations
07-13-2013, 12:59 PM
Originally posted by Sugarphreak
^^ I don't blame you, brake jobs are ridiculously expensive for some reason. I got a quote for just the rear brake pads recently, was like 650$... give me a break. The pads are maybe 75$ at the very worst, 120$ for premium rotors, and it is a 20 minute job. I don't know how some of these places can get away charging that much for what should be easy routine work. :dunno:

I dont doubt the costs but I question the time frame. I sometimes spend 20 minutes just dismantling corroded brake components (without air tools).

AE92_TreunoSC
07-13-2013, 01:02 PM
Brake jobs vary, rust is the biggest factor and there has to be a standard time set.

Don't like the prices? Do it yourself :P or have a professional do it and retain the liability.

eblend
07-13-2013, 01:43 PM
A friend of mine paid about that for a break job on a dodge caravan, that's without the rotors. I told him he was an idiot and call me next time. He took my advice and we did a swap on a smaller car (Pontiac vibe) with all new pads and rotors for about $225. The labor is what usually kills you.

D. Dub
07-13-2013, 01:59 PM
Originally posted by frozenrice
If your brakes look like this, please don't question your mechanic and just pay it.…
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v219/frozenrice/XlrLp.jpg

I imagine the brake "feel" was a little off.

spikerS
07-13-2013, 02:09 PM
Originally posted by tomt64


I would love to see you install rear brakes in 20 minutes, starting from when you drive the car in the shop. An experienced tech is not going to be able to do it in that time unless he does a complete hack job.

if it is anyone other than a 1st year apprentice, 20 mins to swap out disk brakes is fucking slow. Especially in a shop with a hoist.

It takes me an hour to do my front brakes, taking my time, shooting the shit and drinking beer, out on the street in front of my house.

haggis88
07-13-2013, 02:32 PM
Originally posted by spikers


if it is anyone other than a 1st year apprentice, 20 mins to swap out disk brakes is fucking slow. Especially in a shop with a hoist.

It takes me an hour to do my front brakes, taking my time, shooting the shit and drinking beer, out on the street in front of my house.

^^this

with the help of a buddy i've done front pads and rotors on plenty of my cars in about 30 minutes flat, start to finish including looking for that elusive 14mm wrench which always seems to be missing! :D

revelations
07-13-2013, 02:52 PM
On my Mazda B2200 truck, the rotors were integrated with the hubs.

After 20 years of service, it took a 5 ton press to break them apart and they did, with a bang. Not really conducive tor 20 minute brake jobs :dunno:

Rat Fink
07-13-2013, 04:05 PM
.

Sugarphreak
07-13-2013, 04:48 PM
...

tomt64
07-13-2013, 10:01 PM
Let me guess: all these backyard jobs, nobody adjusted the ebrake shoes, nobody corrected the fluid... Or cleaned the hubs... Or cleaned and lubricated all moving parts. A lot of times rotors are reused and turned on a lathe. Theres a right way and a quick way.

spikerS
07-13-2013, 10:15 PM
Originally posted by tomt64
Let me guess: all these backyard jobs, nobody adjusted the ebrake shoes, nobody corrected the fluid... Or cleaned the hubs... Or cleaned and lubricated all moving parts. A lot of times rotors are reused and turned on a lathe. Theres a right way and a quick way.

no, there is one way.

pull the tire off. 5 bolts
pull off the two caliper bolts
remove caliper and remove the two brake pads.
pull off rotor.
put on new rotor
compress caliper piston(s)
install 2 new pads
reinstall caliper
put tire back on.

done.

If you are efficient, with proper tools, should be a breeze.

962 kid
07-13-2013, 10:37 PM
Originally posted by spikers


no, there is one way.

pull the tire off. 5 bolts
pull off the two caliper bolts
remove caliper and remove the two brake pads.
pull off rotor.
put on new rotor
compress caliper piston(s)
install 2 new pads
reinstall caliper
put tire back on.

done.

If you are efficient, with proper tools, should be a breeze.

Yeah, sounds a lot like the backyard hackjob Tom is talking about lol

tomt64
07-13-2013, 11:04 PM
Originally posted by spikers


no, there is one way.

pull the tire off. 5 bolts
pull off the two caliper bolts
remove caliper and remove the two brake pads.
pull off rotor.
put on new rotor
compress caliper piston(s)
install 2 new pads
reinstall caliper
put tire back on.

done.

If you are efficient, with proper tools, should be a breeze.

I rest my case.

spikerS
07-13-2013, 11:10 PM
What? what more is there to do? I suppose if you really want, you can put a tiny bit of grease on the piston, but that is all you need to do.

The brake fluid is sealed, so unless you have a spongy pedal, you don't need to bleed the brakes or anything.

what more do you want?

AE92_TreunoSC
07-13-2013, 11:20 PM
Cleaning the hub and all mounting surfaces is a big deal, along with the caliper bracket shims and the caliper sliders, which both should be lubed.

Cleaning, lubricating shims. Cleaning the caliper and lubricating as necessary.

Most of my time during a typical brake job is cleaning rust off everything so the pedal is like new. The transfer of parts is super fast otherwise.

It's the reason mechanics suck in so much dust, we use grinders to clean off all the friction points.

We make money on brakes of course, but thats how we stay a float. But its not as cut and dry as some people think.

Plus we take all liability.

spikerS
07-13-2013, 11:28 PM
ugh, and there is the fleecer.

I have done so many brake jobs (2nd year apprentice from my youth) it is not even funny.

if you are trying to grind off rust, you should be straight up replacing, otherwise a wire brush is all you need, and if you are anal, a drop of lube on the caliper piston.

Still should not be taking you much more than 20 mins as a professional.

962 kid
07-13-2013, 11:37 PM
Originally posted by spikers

Still should not be taking you much more than 20 mins as a professional.

Not entirely sure why you're trying to tell 3 or 4 professionals how long it takes them to do a job?

spikerS
07-13-2013, 11:57 PM
I am saying that brake jobs are the bread and butter of shops, and people get hosed on them, and trying to tell people that because they grease up shims that it turns a 20-25 min job and 300-400 in parts into a 1000+ job.

-Jay21-
07-14-2013, 12:09 AM
A lot of 4x4 vehicles brakes are integrated into the hub with bearings. A 2000 Pathfinder is a good example, bearings need to be cleaned/checked/greased etc, jobs like these can take a while and cost more.

And for those guys saying brakes can be done in 20 minutes, love to see you video and time yourselves. No chance a front or rear brake job can be done properly in 20 minutes, I was a tech for many years and never did it in that time. Doing the extra little things make a big difference. There are red seal techs/experienced mechanics commenting in this thread and you guys are arguing with them, thanks for the laugh.

AE92_TreunoSC
07-14-2013, 12:14 AM
Where I work its 99$ per set of pads 130 to install than 130 to machine rotors on nearly all the models.

360$ front and again for rear. That is the case, 1000$ is mostly parts not labour. Rotors are expensive in all but the economy end of things, but I machine 4 rotors to every 1 I throw out.

It's a flat rate, its no different than a high markup on a TV or House. The shop isn't screwing you, all shops have generally the same rate. 1 hour to replace pads. 1 to machine rotor. 0.5 to replace rotor.

Some pay better than others. Some brake jobs are stupid quick, some aren't.

962 kid
07-14-2013, 12:24 AM
Originally posted by spikers
I am saying that brake jobs are the bread and butter of shops, and people get hosed on them, and trying to tell people that because they grease up shims that it turns a 20-25 min job and 300-400 in parts into a 1000+ job.

And I'm saying that while you may choose to do a half assed brake job on your own car, those held to higher standards and accountable for the safety of people other than themselves usually do a more professional job.

Just because you didn't learn how to do a complete brake job in the single year you spent in an apprenticeship program doesn't mean that shops are "hosing" people on brake jobs. Cute of you to take a swing like that at the techs in this thread rather than bowing out of a discussion you are outgunned in though.


Originally posted by Aleks


And people always complain how BMWs are expensive to maintain.

$500 for rotors/pads/sensors installed at Calgary BMW on a 335i :dunno:

*edit* missed this. BMW subsidizes standard maintenance and service items on most newer model cars, making routine stuff very affordable

Sugarphreak
07-26-2013, 05:47 PM
...

boarderfatty
07-28-2013, 02:39 PM
In my shop we dont use second line brake parts, and with tolerances on rotors now a days machining is usually not viable as after machining there will be no life left on the rotor, or if there is it most likely wont last the life of the new pads. using NAPA parts the average set of ceramic pads (we avoid semi metallic because of noise and dust) pricing ranges from $80 to $130 for front pads. Front rotors are anywhere from $50 to $110 per rotor. So just in parts you are looking at $180 to $350 in parts for your average vehicle. We charge 1.1 hours at $115 per hour to replace pads and rotors. This labor includes removal of the pads and rotors, buffing the hub surfaces, coating the hub surfaces in anti-seize, cleaning and lubricating the slide pins, the slides, the pads and anywhere there is metal on metal contact, then replacing the pads and rotors. A mechanic can beat the 1.1hrs we charge, but not by a whole lot, they may make it in 0.8 or so. that extra little bit though on the lift compensates for time the vehicle spends on the lift waiting for parts etc. We dont stock brake parts for everything and while the tech may spend .8 on the car, he may waste .5 with it on the lift wasting time waiting for parts. That is our justification for charging $400 - $480 for front pads and rotors.

Beyond that Depending on how worn you let your pads go calipers and a brake flush could be deemed necessary. If you let it get to the point that there is no brake pad material left and you are grinding the metal backing against the rotor, there is going to be overheating problems, mainly heat dissipation. Overheating the calipers often causes the pistons to seize even slightly in the caliper. if the piston is even slightly misshapen or seized, the brake performance will be less than stellar, and the brakes will wear abnormally fast. Overheating the brakes also is terrible for the brake fluid which is why brake flushes have to be done along with just replacing the fluid lost changing the calipers. We charge an additional 0.2 per caliper and 0.5 to flush the brakes. Calipers run anywhere from 90 to 150 a piece. $280 - $400

So beyond the $400-480 for pads and rotors, you are looking at $680-$900 + shop supplies and GST for your average vehicle.

Depending on what your vehicle is, some trucks can get pretty pricey. I would say $1100 is probably not unreasonable

Sugarphreak
09-16-2013, 09:18 PM
...

boarderfatty
09-16-2013, 09:24 PM
Originally posted by Sugarphreak
Bump!

Was remembering this thread when I was doing my rear brakes today.

Weirdest thing, the pads were just about down to the metal, but thickness and condition of the rotor was still like new. I checked it for any warping or imperfections, none to be found. So I just took of the caliper, popped out the old pads and cleaned it up, undid the cap on the brake fluid reservoir and depressed the piston... threw in the new pads and bolted it all up.

Was quoted 680$.... nut in the end it cost me just 135$ for the pads and about a half hours worth of my time, will keep the new rotors for the next time around.

Wow, good for you, you did a pad slam, I bet you are the envy of every technician out there.

ExtraSlow
09-16-2013, 10:12 PM
This thread is great, finally we are mixing the regular hate and intolerance with some actual car talk.

Sugarphreak
09-16-2013, 10:15 PM
...

Tik-Tok
09-16-2013, 11:23 PM
Originally posted by Sugarphreak

I wonder if they get mad if you call them mechanics?


I know mechanics hate to be called technicians, lol.

asifka
09-17-2013, 12:05 AM
OP, what car do you have??

Blue
09-17-2013, 02:05 AM
anyone can help me change my x5 brakes ?? :D :D ill buy them a case of beer haha

dirtsniffer
09-17-2013, 08:45 AM
Originally posted by ExtraSlow
This thread is great, finally we are mixing the regular hate and intolerance with some actual car talk.

haha, you have been on fire lately. Sigged.

boarderfatty
09-17-2013, 09:43 AM
Originally posted by Sugarphreak

I wonder if they get mad if you call them mechanics?

Really though, mock me all you want... saving myself 5 times the cost isn't half bad... just goes to show that with a little elbow grease you can do it yourself and it doesn't have to cost that much. I don't have any faith that the shop wouldn't have just swapped out the rotors regardless of the condition.

What did you actually miss saving yourself 5 times the cost? Did you inspect the caliper and piston for any type of binding or warping? Did you actually take measuring calipers and measure the thickness of the rotor and compare it to the rotor tollerances? Did you actually remove the rotor to inspect the back side that is against the dust shield? Did you inspect bothssides properly not only for grooves or lips, but heat scoring and hard spots? while the rotor was off being inspected did you clean the hub and apply a layer of anti seize to it before putting the rotors back on. Were the braking components and parts thoroughly cleaned with brake clean before installation, did you use a lubricant on all parts of the brake that make metal on metal contact, not just the backs of the pads (ie brake slides, brake slide pins)? After compressing the pistons without releasing the bleeder screw did you inspect the brake master for tearing its seals? (A brake master is designed for pressure to be applied one way, not two.

Now either you skipped 99% of these steps, or you are lying about your 1/2 hour to do the job since it is pretty well impossible to do all of that in 20 minutes (allowing 10 minutes for getting car onto jack sands, removing wheels, then replacing wheels and lowering car after it has been finished).

The reason shops charge 1-1.5 hours for a brake job is that when it is done properly will usually take a technician 1-1.5 hours.

Sugarphreak
09-17-2013, 12:55 PM
...

DeleriousZ
09-17-2013, 01:52 PM
Damn I can't believe I didn't pay attention to this thread until now. Very entertaining and it makes me thankful I own shitty old cars that have super basic brake setups!

Sugarphreak
09-17-2013, 03:23 PM
...