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flipstah
07-28-2013, 06:54 PM
So I've always had a soft spot for Land Rover's, mostly the Defender. When I first saw one in action, I knew I had to get one but when I found out Defender prices, the interest died down.

It was still there but not as pronounced until recently.

I was browsing around Kijiji, searching random ads and here it was, not a Defender, but a Land Rover nonetheless.

For 40 years old, it was 85k miles so that's pretty good so I definitely had to check it out and see.

Did the appropriate research and found that these have aluminum panels and a steel chassis so that was my main thing to watch out for.

First saw it, it was awesome. No chassis rust, leaks like all Rover's do but not much, and runs rough because it's been sitting for a while.

He drove me around and bam, bought it after.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1077711_10151738537724820_1596763040_o.jpg

Plan to restore it enough to do some trails for now and we'll see where he takes me.

The former owner calls him 'Garth' so I'll continue the tradition.

See below for the progress!

flipstah
07-28-2013, 06:55 PM
So after buying Garth, I immediately got him insured and registered.

TD Meloche Monnex had trouble finding the car in the database and double-checked the short VIN but got it registered! She said to have fun because you're gonna need it. :rofl:

After that, it is off to safety inspection at Zero Limit Auto:

https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/1017721_10151738537839820_1633107964_n.jpg

Other than few minor issues and the necessity of a new muffler, Garth is safe enough to be considered roadworthy. :thumbsup:

So in the back, it came with:

https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/976722_10151738537869820_1270603755_o.jpg

- Random bolts
- Rear seats
- Roll cage
- Soft top
- Tailgate
- Jack
- 40 years of random dust, dirt, crap, etc.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/48133_10151738537919820_474186655_n.jpg

Man up!

https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1071596_10151738537959820_792129607_o.jpg

Interior shots

https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1078782_10151738537989820_443627939_o.jpg

Couldn't figure out this funk that the truck had and when I was vacuuming, I found it. It was a dead robin wedged in the seat.

After I got that out and aired it, no more stank!

https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/1079057_10151738538044820_68817351_o.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1074378_10151738538129820_1507325584_o.jpg

The 2.25L petrol engine with a Weber carb and working electrics. SCORE.

Nothing like Spray Nine and WD40 to clean things up.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/1078956_10151738538284820_1640549299_o.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/1076980_10151738538354820_893108812_o.jpg

Installed the bench seats after and will make the left ones.

flipstah
07-28-2013, 07:07 PM
So the truck right off the bat, runs rough. Idles rougher than a tractor engine should, felt like it didn't get enough air, and the timing was off.

So time for a tune-up!

https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/1084924_10151740249199820_1872416624_o.jpg

Spark plugs make a BIG difference. FACT.

TRS (The Rover Shop) was closed so no oil change yet as I'd like to replace the gasket in the oilpan as well.

Cleaned the undercarriage with this stuff (also added Lucas Fuel Treatment in the tank):

https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc1/1071088_10151740249219820_856510253_o.jpg

The results speak for themselves:

https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/1073237_10151740249234820_2057279821_o.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/1082593_10151740249309820_473061754_o.jpg

schocker
07-28-2013, 07:28 PM
You could move the captain slow plate over to this :rofl:

Heru-Farukon
07-28-2013, 07:32 PM
LOOOL ^

Doo ett

Why the fuck did you name it garth

D. Dub
07-28-2013, 07:38 PM
Love those! Looking forward to watching it come back to life.

flipstah
07-28-2013, 07:59 PM
Originally posted by schocker
You could move the captain slow plate over to this :rofl:



Originally posted by Heru-Farukon
LOOOL ^

Doo ett

Why the fuck did you name it garth

LOL I could but I'd like to have other plans for Garth. Putting Captain Slow to the LR would just piss off people, period. It is turtle-fast! :rofl:

He was named Garth by the previous owners and since he had a great track record with them, I'm keeping the tradition alive. With these LR's, superstition can't hurt. :thumbsup:


Originally posted by D. Dub
Love those! Looking forward to watching it come back to life.

I'm hoping to get him running as smooth as possible, replace all weather seals, gaskets, and get that muffler fixed before any paint jobs.

CanmoreOrLess
07-28-2013, 08:19 PM
Can you polish the aluminum like on an Airstream? Are all the body panels aluminum? I think this is a great buy overall, I almost did likewise but the LR was under five feet of snow and it would have taken a great leap of faith.

CanmoreOrLess
07-28-2013, 08:22 PM
Too sexy!

http://img842.imageshack.us/img842/5418/b1ci.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/842/b1ci.jpg/)

Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)

http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/169/ik4a.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/268/ik4a.jpg/)

Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)

AndyL
07-28-2013, 08:29 PM
Ok, so you know the proper "tuneup" for this is to run to PYP - find an S10 with the 2.5 - and take off the TBI & harness and computer... And eliminate that damn carb :D And a few lucas electronics at the same time :) (there's an assload of writeups out there on pirate4x4)

Was the seller's name Chris by chance?

flipstah
07-28-2013, 09:46 PM
Originally posted by CanmoreOrLess
Can you polish the aluminum like on an Airstream? Are all the body panels aluminum? I think this is a great buy overall, I almost did likewise but the LR was under five feet of snow and it would have taken a great leap of faith.

Since the body is all aluminum, I could but it may be high-maintenance. Also, it has a lot of dings so it won't be Purdy. I think a simple paintjob would suffice.

Thanks! Be on the lookout for more mods and basic upkeep 101!


Originally posted by AndyL
Ok, so you know the proper "tuneup" for this is to run to PYP - find an S10 with the 2.5 - and take off the TBI & harness and computer... And eliminate that damn carb :D And a few lucas electronics at the same time :) (there's an assload of writeups out there on pirate4x4)

Was the seller's name Chris by chance?

LOL the carb makes it soo cool and easy to learn from. :)

The seller was Piers and side-note: actually looking for the most active LR forum around and a local chapter to join.

AndyL
07-28-2013, 10:08 PM
Did ya want to drive it or learn to curse out lucas properly :D

flipstah
07-28-2013, 10:28 PM
Originally posted by AndyL
Did ya want to drive it or learn to curse out lucas properly :D

Actually, testing out the night-time drive was... Interesting.

Heater-Lights-Fan.

Choose two; can't have 'em all. You will lose power. :rofl:

The tune-up still needs tweaking and that muffler is just rattling about. Needs a new one ASAP!

blitz
07-28-2013, 10:30 PM
Sweet fence :rofl:

flipstah
07-28-2013, 10:37 PM
Originally posted by blitz
Sweet fence :rofl:

Neighbour won't pay half so not a fuck was given. :rofl:

Anyone know how to fix a dancing speedo? I don't know if I'm going slow or REALLY slow. :rofl:

schocker
07-28-2013, 11:50 PM
Originally posted by flipstah
Since the body is all aluminum, I could but it may be high-maintenance. Also, it has a lot of dings so it won't be Purdy. I think a simple paintjob would suffice.

Don't worry, it is still shinier than my volvo :rofl:

BerserkerCatSplat
07-29-2013, 08:51 AM
Originally posted by AndyL
Ok, so you know the proper "tuneup" for this is to run to PYP - find an S10 with the 2.5 - and take off the TBI & harness and computer... And eliminate that damn carb :D And a few lucas electronics at the same time :) (there's an assload of writeups out there on pirate4x4)

Hah, I knew there would be a homebrew TBI kit for this thing.

AndyL
07-29-2013, 09:06 AM
You can retrofit those gm tbi's on anything... as long as you can workout the air/fuel (match cfm and injector size) and drill an adapter plate... saw a 240z recently with 3 ?cavaliers? TBI's To replace its triple SU's - but that required some megasquirt fancyness... the rest of them typically use the stock computer and harness...

flipstah
07-29-2013, 09:16 AM
So keep in mind, I bought this to learn more about the basics of mechanics and to expand my knowledge.

The extent of work I've done with a car up to this point was the basic maintenance of oil changes, spark plugs, filter changes, belts and pumps so anything beyond that realm (transmission, for example and rebuilds in general) is new to me.

If I expand acronyms incorrectly, please let me know. On that note...

Is the TBI (throttle body) more dependable? I wanted to keep the engine stock so it's easier to work with and less things to worry about when repairing.

I don't want to make him more of a handful haha!

ercchry
07-29-2013, 09:55 AM
throttle body injection... as in fuel injection... as in no more carb, as in, no jetting while changing shit, no vapor lock... etc, etc

flipstah
07-29-2013, 10:08 AM
Looks like I'm joining Pirate4x4 to read up on the builds! :burnout:

AndyL
07-29-2013, 10:23 AM
http://www.jeep-cj.com/bustedjeep/projects/junkyardtbi.html

Best writeup out there... just swap 4.3 for 2.5 components... (as i think you've got a 2.25L?)

Best part, no carb bowl running dry/stalling you out off camber or finding that driveable jetting between waiparous and Calgary altitudes...

Some of the LR guys have swapped gm hei distributors too... so full spark/ timing control too...

flipstah
07-29-2013, 10:44 AM
Originally posted by AndyL
http://www.jeep-cj.com/bustedjeep/projects/junkyardtbi.html

Best writeup out there... just swap 4.3 for 2.5 components... (as i think you've got a 2.25L?)

Best part, no carb bowl running dry/stalling you out off camber or finding that driveable jetting between waiparous and Calgary altitudes...

Some of the LR guys have swapped gm hei distributors too... so full spark/ timing control too...

Yup, have the 2.25L. For the ECU, would it be the same model# as stated in the link or should I look elsewhere for the computer and just get the essentials for it at PnP?

AndyL
07-29-2013, 10:53 AM
Find a complete system - pull it all off the same truck; pn's are more needed when mixing / matching components; but s10 4cyl's are a dime a dozen at pyp last i looked...

The only real fun youll have is designing an adapter plate; but that engine might be gm based (or was that just the v8?) So may just luck out and virtually bolt in) but its an easy plate to build...

BerserkerCatSplat
07-29-2013, 10:59 AM
Originally posted by AndyL
that engine might be gm based (or was that just the v8?)

Yeah only the V8 was an orphaned GM design, sadly.

AndyL
07-29-2013, 11:16 AM
I thought the rover 4 was a derivative of the old gm iron duke for some reason...

BerserkerCatSplat
07-29-2013, 01:17 PM
I don't think it was, but the Iron Duke is a relatively popular swap for the Series LRs.

Me, I'd be thinking about swapping in a Chrysler 2.2/2.5 Turbo, they'll mount longitudinal and bolt up to an AW4 trans.

flipstah
07-29-2013, 01:22 PM
Still on the fence about the engine swap though....

Slow as fuck but I'm one of those purist guys. I'd like to restore him back to his prime, right down to genuine, although underpowered, heart.

But I do like reliability...

#fwp :rofl:

EDIT: What's a reliable, tough engine that would suit the LR? I want it to become a badass expedition rig!

AndyL
07-29-2013, 01:40 PM
Vw m-tdi ;) light weight, same rpm range and diesel ftw

But i wouldn't - you'll get some hp and a ton of reliability with the tbi/hei... too much hp and you start breaking the rest of the truck

flipstah
07-29-2013, 01:43 PM
Originally posted by AndyL
Vw m-tdi ;) light weight, same rpm range and diesel ftw

Oh shi-, will that fit?! INTERESTING.

EDIT: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=194274

http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/#engine

http://www.landroveraddict.com/forums/thread.cfm?threadID=81016

Oh man, the options! :love:

AndyL
07-29-2013, 01:54 PM
Beginner project... keep in bolt on - less likely to become a garage storage system like my 4runner still waiting for its vw diesel transplant... 5years later...

BerserkerCatSplat
07-29-2013, 01:59 PM
Is the TDI available in a RWD configuration?

Tik-Tok
07-29-2013, 01:59 PM
If you're interested in a Muncie SM420 transmission, let me know (7.00 first gear, great for crawling, and has a PTO).

flipstah
07-29-2013, 02:01 PM
Originally posted by AndyL
Beginner project... keep in bolt on - less likely to become a garage storage system like my 4runner still waiting for its vw diesel transplant... 5years later...

Bolt on would have to be the TDI Defender engine then.

BerserkerCatSplat
07-29-2013, 02:14 PM
Just get it running and up to spec first, then worry about swaps and whatnot. It'll do you good to learn how to tune a carb anyway. ;)

flipstah
07-29-2013, 02:43 PM
Originally posted by BerserkerCatSplat
Just get it running and up to spec first, then worry about swaps and whatnot. It'll do you good to learn how to tune a carb anyway. ;)

:werd: Learn first, party later. :bigpimp:

Will be heading to TRS later today if anyone is nearby.

e36bmw///
07-29-2013, 05:32 PM
nm

flipstah
07-29-2013, 09:54 PM
https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/529094_10151742579379820_2109349480_n.jpg

Today at TRS was awesome. Bought an oilpan gasket, service manual, and upgraded coil/electronic ignition for a better spark. TRS recommended to do this mod to go with the oil change as a must-do modification to make life easier.

I also upgraded the horn to twins as the old one was pathetic. GTFO, bitches! :thumbsup:

EDIT: What conventional oil do people recommend? Also, the previous owner used 10W30 and not sure if I should go 5W30 or even 0W30 for something this old...

FraserB
07-30-2013, 10:16 AM
Do not, do not, post on Pirate. Just read lol.

Get some bedliner and do the exterior. Or at least the floor.

flipstah
07-30-2013, 10:40 AM
Originally posted by FraserB
Do not, do not, post on Pirate. Just read lol.

Get some bedliner and do the exterior. Or at least the floor.

Where can I buy bedliners, especially for something like an LR?

ercchry
07-30-2013, 10:56 AM
Originally posted by flipstah


Where can I buy bedliners, especially for something like an LR?

its a can of paint... :rofl:

flipstah
07-30-2013, 11:00 AM
Originally posted by ercchry


its a can of paint... :rofl:

I was thinking that too lol! Just matte black and whatever.

Or this...

http://www.line-x.ca/

:drool:

ercchry
07-30-2013, 11:02 AM
Originally posted by flipstah


I was thinking that too lol! Just matte black and whatever.

Or this...

http://www.line-x.ca/

:drool:

yeah, with bedliner its come a long way, you can get any colour you want and you can also get it smooth or textured

flipstah
07-30-2013, 11:06 AM
Originally posted by ercchry


yeah, with bedliner its come a long way, you can get any colour you want and you can also get it smooth or textured

My dad was planning to clean the rust off the steel doors and the floor panel while I'm gone on vacation and he was going to paint the interior black.

Would you recommend if I just get the inside painted too to this bedliner stuff? So the inside door panels and the floor.

Not sure.

FraserB
07-30-2013, 11:20 AM
You can get Gator Guard at Autovalue. Works pretty well, I've done the interior of a Jeep with it and the exterior of a truck.

ercchry
07-30-2013, 11:24 AM
Originally posted by flipstah


My dad was planning to clean the rust off the steel doors and the floor panel while I'm gone on vacation and he was going to paint the interior black.

Would you recommend if I just get the inside painted too to this bedliner stuff? So the inside door panels and the floor.

Not sure.

bedliner is super durable and easy to apply. its really thick so you dont have to put as much into surface prep. im not too sure of it adheres to bare metal as well as paint. so i'd check with the guys at line-x to what they recommend

flipstah
07-30-2013, 11:25 AM
Originally posted by ercchry


bedliner is super durable and easy to apply. its really thick so you dont have to put as much into surface prep. im not too sure of it adheres to bare metal as well as paint. so i'd check with the guys at line-x to what they recommend

Gave them a call and sending pictures to get an evlauation.


Originally posted by FraserB
You can get Gator Guard at Autovalue. Works pretty well, I've done the interior of a Jeep with it and the exterior of a truck.

Sweet, thanks. Can this be brushed or does it have to be spray-on?

EDIT: I think this is a better idea:

http://por15canada.com/shop/product_info.php/cPath/28/products_id/34/osCsid/urbf33jb6eho5v9oup6r4vj6r5

Grind the rust off as best as we can, paint this POR15 stuff on top, then REALLY thin bedliner.

Don't want it to be heavy. It's a <60hp engine lol.

flipstah
07-30-2013, 12:45 PM
Forget Line-X. I got quoted $2400! :eek: :rofl:

Most likely going this route:

http://por15canada.com/shop/product_info.php/cPath/28/products_id/34/osCsid/urbf33jb6eho5v9oup6r4vj6r5

Grind the rust off as best as we can, paint this POR15 stuff on top, then thin layer of that Gator Guard stuff.

ercchry
07-30-2013, 12:54 PM
Originally posted by flipstah
Forget Line-X. I got quoted $2400! :eek: :rofl:


well, yeah :rofl:

i mean just pick their brains and then get a dyi product... its easy enough to roll on, you dont need the pros to install for you

TYMSMNY
07-30-2013, 12:57 PM
:thumbsup: for Vern at TRS.

What about a spray on bedliner...

flipstah
07-30-2013, 12:58 PM
Originally posted by ercchry


well, yeah :rofl:

i mean just pick their brains and then get a dyi product... its easy enough to roll on, you dont need the pros to install for you

Actually, their main concern was the bond between the painted surfaces and the metal so I guess I have to hit it with primer first.

Good to know. :thumbsup:


Originally posted by TYMSMNY
:thumbsup: for Vern at TRS.

What about a spray on bedliner...

Actually met Gary (the parts guy at TRS)! Very helpful guy and an awesome shop in general. :thumbsup:

BerserkerCatSplat
07-30-2013, 02:08 PM
Originally posted by flipstah
[img]
EDIT: What conventional oil do people recommend? Also, the previous owner used 10W30 and not sure if I should go 5W30 or even 0W30 for something this old...

Stick with 10W30. I'd consider a Shell Rotella 10W30.

flipstah
07-30-2013, 02:33 PM
Originally posted by BerserkerCatSplat


Stick with 10W30. I'd consider a Shell Rotella 10W30.

Thanks. I was considering Pennzoil HM Conventional as well. Fuckin' 6L beast. :banghead:

4runneron36s
08-02-2013, 11:34 AM
Can you post up pics of the front axle? I'm interested to see how it looks. Does it use Birfields or ujoints? What's the tcase ratio (in low)?

Good luck on the build.

max_boost
08-02-2013, 11:55 AM
That's dynamic Donnie. The ladies are gonna love you long time! lol

flipstah
08-02-2013, 12:57 PM
100% Chick Magnet :rofl:

Pics will be up later in the month!

Disoblige
08-02-2013, 01:36 PM
Make the back into a bed and put some curtains on the windows :dunno:

AndyL
08-02-2013, 01:42 PM
Dont forget some shag and dingleballs :D

ercchry
08-02-2013, 01:48 PM
Originally posted by flipstah
100% Chick Magnet :rofl:

Pics will be up later in the month!

thats pretty cocky... thinking you will have pics of girls within the month :rofl:

Disoblige
08-02-2013, 02:02 PM
well, maybe the car is meant to attract girls. It is named Garth.. :rofl:

sputnik
08-02-2013, 02:14 PM
Originally posted by flipstah

EDIT: I think this is a better idea:

http://por15canada.com/shop/product_info.php/cPath/28/products_id/34/osCsid/urbf33jb6eho5v9oup6r4vj6r5

Grind the rust off as best as we can, paint this POR15 stuff on top, then REALLY thin bedliner.

POR15 not a good idea.

It (along with most other epoxy based paint) degrades quickly in direct sunlight (specifically UV) and gets white and chalky.

nobb
08-02-2013, 05:01 PM
Got to ride in this baby last night with Don and I confirm 100% that this is a chick magnet :poosie:

max_boost
08-02-2013, 05:20 PM
Originally posted by nobb
Got to ride in this baby last night with Don and I confirm 100% that this is a chick magnet :poosie: You are girl?

nobb
08-02-2013, 05:26 PM
HAHA no...

rx7_turbo2
08-02-2013, 11:53 PM
Originally posted by sputnik


POR15 not a good idea.

It (along with most other epoxy based paint) degrades quickly in direct sunlight (specifically UV) and gets white and chalky.

This.

POR15 works really really well, I've had nothing but great results with it. But it needs a coat of something else over top otherwise the UV kills it.

I'd be inclined to use a self etching primer, and then a roll on or spay on DIY bed liner like whats been suggested previously.

The guy's over at www.ih8mud.com seem to like this Monstaliner stuff.

http://monstaliner.com/

flipstah
08-03-2013, 12:37 AM
Originally posted by ercchry


thats pretty cocky... thinking you will have pics of girls within the month :rofl:

LOL I meant for the front axle! :rofl:

flipstah
08-19-2013, 05:00 PM
BACK FROM VACATION! Some updates:

Oil change was completed while I was gone and leakage is gone for now.

Returned the electronic ignition and put the points system back on but kept the new coil. Running majestically now!

Back from vacation and immediately went to my Rover store to get more parts:

- Original tail lights assembly
- Speedo cable
- Rear door lock
- Brake fluid cap

Ordered the side markers, amber lights, and will be on the lookout to see if I can fix the reverse lights. License plate light works after cleaning the contact points.

Any ideas on how to fit a Weber carb snorkel? Was thinking a custom airbox then a random kit to fit it together...


Originally posted by sputnik


POR15 not a good idea.

It (along with most other epoxy based paint) degrades quickly in direct sunlight (specifically UV) and gets white and chalky.

I was thinking of cleaning the rust off, POR15 as 'primer' then a topcoat of something to protect it (Gator Guard). Thoughts?

EDIT:
Originally posted by rx7_turbo2


This.

POR15 works really really well, I've had nothing but great results with it. But it needs a coat of something else over top otherwise the UV kills it.

I'd be inclined to use a self etching primer, and then a roll on or spay on DIY bed liner like whats been suggested previously.

The guy's over at www.ih8mud.com seem to like this Monstaliner stuff.

http://monstaliner.com/

Thanks for this link. Will check it out. :thumbsup:

Will be doing a brake fluid flush and cleaning these brackets over the weekend as the coolant fluid was replaced yesterday. Still waiting for ze muffler!

flipstah
08-19-2013, 05:19 PM
Originally posted by 4runneron36s
Can you post up pics of the front axle? I'm interested to see how it looks. Does it use Birfields or ujoints? What's the tcase ratio (in low)?

Good luck on the build.

Here's the front axle.

The left swivel joint leaks and there's a weird bracket for what looks to be a stabilizer... Not sure yet:

https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1147732_10151788875489820_310272667_o.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/277367_10151788875509820_1701499204_o.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/1119832_10151788875504820_1131158370_o.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/998766_10151788875639820_176670977_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/1175535_10151788875644820_327433568_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/620659_10151788875689820_1132416595_o.jpg

flipstah
08-20-2013, 05:10 AM
Just recently found this company while searching around,

http://www.consolidatedcompressor.com/diy

After maintenance of fluid changes, I may rent their equipment and sand blast the rust off of the bumper and undercarriage, then coat it down with something.

Anyone used Consolidated Compressor?

EDIT: Also found this rust converter,

http://www.monstaliner.com/monstaliner_how_to_stop_rust.htm

rx7_turbo2
08-20-2013, 08:37 AM
Originally posted by flipstah
Just recently found this company while searching around,

http://www.consolidatedcompressor.com/diy

After maintenance of fluid changes, I may rent their equipment and sand blast the rust off of the bumper and undercarriage, then coat it down with something.

Anyone used Consolidated Compressor?

EDIT: Also found this rust converter,

http://www.monstaliner.com/monstaliner_how_to_stop_rust.htm

I've used Consolidated Compressor. I've always brought parts there never a whole vehicle, but it's worked out well. No real hassle, it's basically all set up and ready to go. Whenever I've been there others have been doing whole vehicles.

Like I said I know the guy's at IH8MUD like the monstaliner bedliner, not sure what their thoughts on the rust converter is though.

flipstah
08-20-2013, 09:29 AM
Originally posted by rx7_turbo2


I've used Consolidated Compressor. I've always brought parts there never a whole vehicle, but it's worked out well. No real hassle, it's basically all set up and ready to go. Whenever I've been there others have been doing whole vehicles.

Like I said I know the guy's at IH8MUD like the monstaliner bedliner, not sure what their thoughts on the rust converter is though.

Sweet. I might use their blast area and rent their equipment to get the rust out then paint it using POR15 + light coat of bedliner.

Thanks! :thumbsup:

flipstah
08-22-2013, 10:30 AM
https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/1175228_10151791771399820_581160452_n.jpg

Gearbox and diff oil has been replaced! Just needs new gaskets and filler plugs to make things less leaky. Looking good, Garth!

Then, removed a rust contaminated side step and sprayed the left swivel joint with GUNK.

Used a whole can and elbow grease,

https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/534305_10151793834269820_656049872_n.jpg

30 years of sludge right there.

It looks relatively clean after...

https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/1233394_10151793834229820_104289494_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1231649_10151793834259820_749777808_n.jpg

Must open past the swivel gaiter to see how the ball joint is doing. Pretty clean from the last picture, I must say.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/1185599_10151793834389820_1951324725_n.jpg

New brass plugs for the diff were put on today and a gearbox gasket to be fitted over the weekend. This is what the old ones looked like,

https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/1170758_10151793834399820_1054168197_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1185681_10151793843654820_1651108992_n.jpg

So I engaged overdrive when stopped and drove on it from 1st to 4th.

The gearbox is noisy but the rev sounded lower (different loud sound than high revving engine). Not sure if it's suppose to sound like that though...

flipstah
08-22-2013, 10:18 PM
Hit a minor issue today.

So I finally(!) got the new exhaust system from Britain:

https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc1/1001242_10151795928169820_1062596878_n.jpg

I love hatchbacks. :love:

https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/1175136_10151796142884820_249143897_n.jpg

Removed the old system out today. Bolts got too rusty so we just ground it out using a grinder and snapped it out.

However, fitment looks snug...

https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1002918_10151796142844820_1450076995_n.jpg

Not really 'snug'; 'tight'. It bolts on like it should but the bend is off...

https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1237139_10151796142864820_2037652071_n.jpg

Also, one of the bolts won't lock so hit a snag and will continue on the weekend.

amear
08-23-2013, 02:56 AM
Originally posted by flipstah

The gearbox is noisy but the rev sounded lower (different loud sound than high revving engine). Not sure if it's suppose to sound like that though...

Im pretty sure thats normal.

flipstah
08-24-2013, 09:14 PM
Originally posted by amear


Im pretty sure thats normal.

Most excellent news. On the safe, I'll just use overdrive once in a while.

Well, my dad helped me out today and he just say, 'forget it' and just bolted it on. The muffler is installed, rattles against the chassis but whatever.

The engine is tractor-y enough to cover muffler rattle. :rofl:

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/1175498_10151800261384820_391865529_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/1238953_10151800261389820_1783236551_n.jpg

Next up is the swivel balls, exterior lights that were bought, gearbox gasket, and figure out why it's leaning to the left side.

We're having a debate on whether it's the shocks or the leaf springs that are the culprit.

Also, 235/80/16 rubs against the chassis when turning right but not left. Steering alignment perhaps or the tires are just too big?

Bought Prestone synthetic DOT 4 brake fluid for a possible flush tomorrow. Is this sufficient? It's the only fluid available.

firebane
08-24-2013, 10:14 PM
The one shot of the cv axle looks like it is pointing a bad way where the other one seems to be ok.

If you look up the gearing for this thing you will probably find the other gearing you used was a granny type gearing setup meant for climbing and pulling which causes low revs.

http://www.series2club.co.uk/pages/technical/gear_levers.html

I would just stick with dot 3 but dot 4 is fine. But if you switch its best to completely flush the entire system.

flipstah
08-24-2013, 11:30 PM
Originally posted by firebane
The one shot of the cv axle looks like it is pointing a bad way where the other one seems to be ok.

If you look up the gearing for this thing you will probably find the other gearing you used was a granny type gearing setup meant for climbing and pulling which causes low revs.

http://www.series2club.co.uk/pages/technical/gear_levers.html

I would just stick with dot 3 but dot 4 is fine. But if you switch its best to completely flush the entire system.

Thanks for that link! I was showing Garth to BerserkerCatSplat and he saw the power takeoff then 'hydraulic winching' came to mind.

I'll be flushing out the entire system so DOT 4 is going all in. It's one of the last bit of fluids that need replacing.

As for the rubbing, BCS checked it out and saw that the tire was rubbing against the leaf spring so it's either the spring is drooping back enough that it's causing contact or the steering stop need adjustment.

Sunday will get interesting. :thumbsup:

firebane
08-24-2013, 11:37 PM
Originally posted by flipstah


Thanks for that link! I was showing Garth to BerserkerCatSplat and he saw the power takeoff then 'hydraulic winching' came to mind.

I'll be flushing out the entire system so DOT 4 is going all in. It's one of the last bit of fluids that need replacing.

As for the rubbing, BCS checked it out and saw that the tire was rubbing against the leaf spring so it's either the spring is drooping back enough that it's causing contact or the steering stop need adjustment.

Sunday will get interesting. :thumbsup:

Not sure how the transmission works on that guy but my old 94 chev had a nv4500 transmission that had an optional pto drive attachment.

flipstah
08-25-2013, 10:58 PM
Sunday was interesting, indeedy!

Random thing found today: a block heater! Don't know if it works yet...

https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/1233964_10151802430909820_911419888_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/1184914_10151802430884820_651964951_n.jpg

Cleaned the undercarriage somewhat with Spray Nine and pressure washing.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/1233487_10151802430679820_1108488205_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/1174598_10151802430764820_1598938220_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/574539_10151802430854820_268073294_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/1185511_10151802430774820_1984622542_n.jpg

flipstah
08-25-2013, 11:01 PM
Swivel joint inspection time!:

https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/1236547_10151802430684820_1048067684_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/1235026_10151802435059820_156121441_n.jpg

So we started adding swivel grease in to find out where it leaked and it wasn't hard to find it :rofl:. The grease pushed out this watered down oil mixture so it was like a flush on its own :

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/1234636_10151802430589820_974861150_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/533755_10151802430594820_900868708_n.jpg

Ball joint looks pristine!

The leather gaiter doesn't have holes or tears but it was just poor installation from the previous owner. Refolded the leather, tightened the bolts and the leak subsided from 'gushing' to 'drip'.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/1235909_10151802430584820_361015862_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/1209117_10151802434964820_31600154_n.jpg

The right one wasn't leaking because it was bone dry. Used leftover grease to start pushing out the old oil and the leak is in the same spot!

Same deal; readjust the leather gaiter and it's less leaky.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/547217_10151802430669820_1529952631_n.jpg

Exterior lights were also replaced:

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/1236790_10151802434974820_1266578726_n.jpg

Looking good! Brake fluid flush and gearbox gasket were not addressed but there's always another day. :thumbsup:

flipstah
08-27-2013, 11:10 PM
Received my oil analysis from Blackstone Laboratories on the original oil before the change to Pennzoil High Mileage 5W30:

https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/1209147_10151806727204820_930683149_n.jpg

RickDaTuner
08-27-2013, 11:37 PM
Those heavy metals numbers are consistent with a dry start, after an engine has been sitting un-run for a while.

I'd recommend some oil additive on the next oil change or, even just add a can.

Have you noticed what type of gaskets are on the engine? Cork, rubber, paper, rope?
I'd suggest switching switching over to a synthetic based engine oil to prevent the dry start wear, but with the old school seal tech employed in those old rovers, it would probably best to just stick with dino oil and an additive.

Kinda interesting though that this thing was built for bush mechanics where some rope, leather and tub of grease would solve almost any leak.

flipstah
08-28-2013, 07:04 AM
I added the following Lucas Oil product after the oil change,

http://www.lucasoil.com/products/display_products.sd?iid=83&catid=7&loc=show&headTitle= - Engine Oil Stop Leak

I'll check the gasket type but on the safe side, I chose conventional oil for the oil change.

It even has the option for crank start haha. That's how simple it can get lol.

BerserkerCatSplat
08-28-2013, 11:09 AM
flipstah, can you grab me any identifying information printed on your alternator?

flipstah
08-28-2013, 11:23 AM
^ I'll take a look and a pic later today.

flipstah
08-29-2013, 05:47 PM
I looked and there was no plate attached to the alternator.

BerserkerCatSplat
08-29-2013, 06:34 PM
Man what the hell. :nut:

msommers
08-29-2013, 07:03 PM
This is a really cool project man! Really looking forward to see how it ends.

I would absolutely love a defender. But the prices are insane for such an old vehicle. Maybe I missed it but how much did you end up forking over for this thing?

flipstah
08-29-2013, 09:16 PM
Originally posted by msommers
This is a really cool project man! Really looking forward to see how it ends.

I would absolutely love a defender. But the prices are insane for such an old vehicle. Maybe I missed it but how much did you end up forking over for this thing?

PMd

flipstah
09-01-2013, 01:02 AM
Good start to the weekend!

https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/1240038_10151814233429820_1082218737_n.jpg

Cleaned the air filter but sourcing out the original oil bath air filter.

Meanwhile, the gearbox got a new gasket mounted:

https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/536799_10151814233449820_931814284_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/1234112_10151814233404820_1457142189_n.jpg

CB antenna is mounted now with an aluminum extension:

https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/1240485_10151814233339820_383631004_n.jpg

Enjoyed the best upgrade so far:

https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/1208997_10151814233334820_205670958_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/64460_10151814233319820_1595029424_n.jpg

So relaxing to drive now! :clap:

flipstah
09-03-2013, 10:22 PM
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/1236069_10151820809999820_2028422157_n.jpg

This is a Series IIA, with a lot of mods to list.

Met up with someone from the Alberta Land Rover Enthusiasts (ALRE) Club and passed on words of wisdom. For example, he informed me that my engine is more than likely a military rebuild, the leaf springs will always lean and just need spray graphite, how to change the main gear with just 6 screws, and how he custom machined his fuel tank for 120L!

I am a wiser man today.

EDIT: Also put new speedo cable in but still dances so definitely needs a new speedometer but really, my smartphone can do it for me and that's how I found out my top speed is 97kph lol.

flipstah
09-06-2013, 01:59 PM
Just did some last-minute touches on my day off before a trail run tomorrow:

http://pbs.twimg.com/media/BTfy3jkCEAAP25D.jpg

Bonus internetz for anyone that guesses correctly what they are!

Tarrantula
09-06-2013, 02:08 PM
Drums?

flipstah
09-06-2013, 08:25 PM
Originally posted by Tarrantula
Drums?

Nah, the drums are still the proper thickness, but they still suck regardless. :rofl:

https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc1/1002217_10151826918449820_1931858954_n.jpg

These are for next week; more gear oil for the overdrive, swivel joint grease, and new engine/gearbox mounts.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/540704_10151826918529820_607781878_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/557479_10151826918524820_1958549082_n.jpg

I learnt a trick from a fellow Land Rover enthusiast on how to prolong the life of leaf springs; spray graphite!

https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/1234577_10151826918399820_508405638_n.jpg

Before spray graphite...

https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/1234371_10151826918349820_2077618204_n.jpg

After spray graphite. Made sure the lubricant wicked its' way in-between the leaves.

My LR Series is a North American version so the hardest parts to replace are those huge amber lights. Light guards are now installed!

https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1185302_10151826918289820_1307306659_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/1173715_10151826918264820_246939205_n.jpg

The rear ones are also huge so the stock tail guards won't fit so I spliced one of the front guards in half.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/540704_10151826918359820_2060466313_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/557479_10151826918089820_149874369_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/1170806_10151826918149820_594973520_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/1237724_10151826918229820_1209923286_n.jpg

Left hub is leaking. UGH.

And last-minute mods...

https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/1235510_10151826918094820_1245973205_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1005485_10151826918084820_1359060715_n.jpg

BerserkerCatSplat
09-06-2013, 09:23 PM
Originally posted by flipstah

And last-minute mods...

https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/1235510_10151826918094820_1245973205_n.jpg


It could just be me, but those look like tie-down loops, not recovery shackles.

flipstah
09-06-2013, 09:35 PM
Fuck.

firebane
09-06-2013, 10:17 PM
Yah that would just rip that bumper off. Recovery points need to be attached to the frame.

flipstah
09-06-2013, 10:43 PM
Lesson learned. Guess I won't be using that then :)

flipstah
09-07-2013, 08:13 AM
Should've been one of these: jate rings,

http://www.landroverstuff.com/images/defjate.jpg

BerserkerCatSplat
09-07-2013, 11:51 AM
Originally posted by flipstah
Should've been one of these: jate rings,

http://www.landroverstuff.com/images/defjate.jpg

Yeah those look like a much better idea. Related: that yellow tube is the steering stabilizer we were talking about.