Ask AndyL - Garage Door Questions Answered

[sillysod]

Well since Andy is the garage door expert I volunteered to make this thread all on my own with out consulting him. :D


Okay here it goes.

I have a garage door that came with my package from Star Building Materials. I did not upgrade it, its the standard 16' door that comes with really crappy hardware.

1st I had problems with the hinges loosening up.
It came with these:
http://www.kbgaragedoors.ca/UserFiles/image/garage-hinge-may-2011.jpg

Those hinges kept loosening up and coming apart so I ordered some better ones off of eBay because Home Depot was a rip off. They look like this:

http://americandoorsupply.com/images/Garage%20Door%20Parts/garage-door-hinge-14ga-number-1.jpg


I also drilled right through the door (4 per hinge) and installed carriage bolts because the self tapping screws used before sucked.

Now for an opener I have a very old Craftsman that I got from my inlaws. Theirs died and I decided it would be interesting to see if I could rebuild it. Not as a money saving thing (new ones are dirt cheap) but just because I can. I ordered new gear kit for it and put it up.

This is what happened

http://www.garagedoorcenterinc.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/S-6.jpg

Anyways the opener has been installed for probably 6 years in my new home and it works well.... 99% of the time.

Every 2 or 3 months the door will open partially and stop. Sometimes it stops when it is only 2 feet open, sometimes it stops when it is almost completely open, but occasionally it stops midway through opening.

The wife has clipped the shark fin on her BMW on it once and when she had the Passat she ripped the antenna right off the roof of her wagon. Sooner or later this is going to cost me paint.

I have played with the force up / down and it's not that. I looked inside the opener and everything is in excellent condition in there. Then yesterday I was walking down the alley and I saw my neighbor had the same issue. He said his frequently does that too and I checked his door but couldn't find anything either. He is running a Chamberlin 1/2hp opener as well, but a new one.

I left and immediately realized that the forum required an "Ask Andy L" resource.

I still have the crappy fantastic-plastic rollers on my door so that would be the next thing I look at, but before I go full retard on this I figured I would ask a pro.

Thanks in advance AndyL for offering up your help :D

[AndyL]

:D let me get home to a pc... multiple long issues and phone keyboard sucks

[AndyL]

Originally posted by sillysod
Well since Andy is the garage door expert I volunteered to make this thread all on my own with out consulting him. :D

Are you my wife? She voluntolds me a lot too :D


Originally posted by sillysod

I have a garage door that came with my package from Star Building Materials. I did not upgrade it, its the standard 16' door that comes with really crappy hardware.

1st I had problems with the hinges loosening up.
It came with these:
http://www.kbgaragedoors.ca/UserFiles/image/garage-hinge-may-2011.jpg

Not quite exactly like that though right? Because that's a Richard wilcox hinge - As far as I know star's only ever sold steelcraft - similar but much less capable half hinge...

Steelcrafts (linked from their website if it doesn't work)
part #15 http://www.steel-craft.ca/About/GarageDoorBasics/tabid/76/Default.aspx
http://www.steel-craft.ca/Portals/0/About/PartsCenterHinge.jpg


Originally posted by sillysod

Those hinges kept loosening up and coming apart so I ordered some better ones off of eBay because Home Depot was a rip off. They look like this:

http://americandoorsupply.com/images/Garage%20Door%20Parts/garage-door-hinge-14ga-number-1.jpg


I also drilled right through the door (4 per hinge) and installed carriage bolts because the self tapping screws used before sucked.

That sucks... You could have just PM'd me... I could have dropped off a handfull of bigger tek's for free/cheap... :D

Now you've created multiple water entry points on the exterior face of the door (which I think is down in the 28ga range or so) - none of the manufacturers say whether they use open or closed cell urethane - by the rust on the inside of some sections - I can only assume many use open cell urethane (ie wicks water).

They use the endcaps for mounting hinges because the sum is stronger than the whole...

But yeah - they often are stripped from the get-go... I can't tell you how many times I've had to replace every fastener on a door because the 'installer' (I use the term loosely) didn't hear the impact bog down and realize it's time to pull off - not keep going and strip the screw hole completely for a few more seconds...


Originally posted by sillysod


Now for an opener I have a very old Craftsman that I got from my inlaws. Theirs died and I decided it would be interesting to see if I could rebuild it. Not as a money saving thing (new ones are dirt cheap) but just because I can. I ordered new gear kit for it and put it up.

This is what happened

http://www.garagedoorcenterinc.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/S-6.jpg

Anyways the opener has been installed for probably 6 years in my new home and it works well.... 99% of the time.

Every 2 or 3 months the door will open partially and stop. Sometimes it stops when it is only 2 feet open, sometimes it stops when it is almost completely open, but occasionally it stops midway through opening.

The wife has clipped the shark fin on her BMW on it once and when she had the Passat she ripped the antenna right off the roof of her wagon. Sooner or later this is going to cost me paint.

I have played with the force up / down and it's not that. I looked inside the opener and everything is in excellent condition in there. Then yesterday I was walking down the alley and I saw my neighbor had the same issue. He said his frequently does that too and I checked his door but couldn't find anything either. He is running a Chamberlin 1/2hp opener as well, but a new one.

I left and immediately realized that the forum required an "Ask Andy L" resource.
It's binding... That's the only reason why it would stop mid travel, without errors... Even forces cranked the opener will only put 9kg of force on the door - to prevent damage.

Stripped gear has 2 causes, cranked forces and a alignment issue - or close limit set too far down... Door should just rest on the slab, not slam down and try to drive itself another few inches further (usually visible by seeing the rail on the opener bending wildly to the ceiling)


Originally posted by sillysod

I still have the crappy fantastic-plastic rollers on my door so that would be the next thing I look at, but before I go full retard on this I figured I would ask a pro.

Thanks in advance AndyL for offering up your help :D
Seriously, why didn't ya just contact me a long long time ago? :)

Ok, now pull out the camera and lets see all the gory pics :)

[Cody D]

Hijack. My garage door bounces like crazy when it's first opening, I assume something is loose. I live about an hour out of town but would happily pay you to come fix it. I guess I could have used the PM function.

[AndyL]

Or hit that www button at the bottom of my posts and find my contact info real easy like ;)

[sillysod]

Wow long weekend happened and then work :nut: .

Thanks for the response. Although the carriage bolts sounds ghetto, it looks okay and made the door much more solid than teck screws IMO. I had carriage bolts that came with the door that went through where the door opener bracket mounts so I just did the same thing for all the hinges.

I am guessing that the binding is from either the rollers or one of the cables having more tension than the other.

[AndyL]

No I've seen carriage bolts done a lot - it works for a while... then they start to pull through the front face.

Carriage bolts didn't come with the door - they came with the opener (intended for use with a wood door).

Steelcraft specifies you use an operator bracket:
http://www.steel-craft.ca/Portals/0/About/PartsOperatorPlate.jpg
and tek the operator bracket to that... It's not generally included in the door kit - usually have to ask and buy it separately.

If you check the manual, you'll see there's no carriage bolts in the package - except the 2 for the top fixtures which definitely aren't long enough to penetrate the door.
http://www.steel-craft.ca/Portals/0/DoubleWide%20Brochure.pdf

If you look at the whole system, cable shouldn't have unequal loads, if it does - then the doors or shaft is off level - so yes probably binding...

[LOLzilla]

AndyL, what is your preferred brand for back alley facing garage doors?

[AndyL]

Meh... These days I'm generally putting most people into a northwest door product

http://northwestdoor.com/assets/brochures/residential/ThermaTech-TriTech_Brochure_9-29-11.pdf

Good quality door face, the local supplier puts together a hardware package that puts the other companies to shame. Cost is competitive with the usual suspects - no parts that are dealer specific (ie no funny hinges that can't be found anywhere but a specific dealer)

[npham]

So, I've moved into this new place and the current door opener is crap, I believe it's a Linear. It open and closes fine, but my remote will "forget" how to close the door and then I have to drive back in, hit the re-learn button on the motor, and then again on the remote before it will close with the remote.

Do I get a new remote, or get a new garage door opener/motor? The other remote has worked perfectly since we've moved in.

[benyl]

ok, I'll play.

Is this door any good?

http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd364/bwinkelm/DE969ACB-9DD0-4C11-B2BA-E83AF7964E06-2706-0000019677B38D73_zpsc7c18dea.jpg (http://s1216.photobucket.com/user/bwinkelm/media/DE969ACB-9DD0-4C11-B2BA-E83AF7964E06-2706-0000019677B38D73_zpsc7c18dea.jpg.html)

Hinge / roller

http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd364/bwinkelm/9052858B-4B87-4F3C-B96C-31FDA9B6BCF5-2706-000001966DE38903_zps7af19126.jpg (http://s1216.photobucket.com/user/bwinkelm/media/9052858B-4B87-4F3C-B96C-31FDA9B6BCF5-2706-000001966DE38903_zps7af19126.jpg.html)

Shitty picture of on of the hinges:
http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd364/bwinkelm/4371BA51-575D-4670-9000-37A110B54675-2706-000001965BAC1ACF_zpsaf72875c.jpg (http://s1216.photobucket.com/user/bwinkelm/media/4371BA51-575D-4670-9000-37A110B54675-2706-000001965BAC1ACF_zpsaf72875c.jpg.html)

Get you can better sealing on the outside than this shitty stuff? Dust blows in. I can see daylight from the inside of the garage. I am sure the heat escape easily from there.

http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd364/bwinkelm/AC71BF7F-A5D7-43A2-91D4-06801E54B542-2706-000001964DA82CD6_zpsaa5c49b8.jpg (http://s1216.photobucket.com/user/bwinkelm/media/AC71BF7F-A5D7-43A2-91D4-06801E54B542-2706-000001964DA82CD6_zpsaa5c49b8.jpg.html)

[AndyL]

Originally posted by npham
So, I've moved into this new place and the current door opener is crap, I believe it's a Linear. It open and closes fine, but my remote will "forget" how to close the door and then I have to drive back in, hit the re-learn button on the motor, and then again on the remote before it will close with the remote.

Do I get a new remote, or get a new garage door opener/motor? The other remote has worked perfectly since we've moved in.

Since one works and the other keeps failing - id be tempted to say - remote...

I haven't spent much time on the linears - seem to show up when the owners have already decided they're to be removed.

[AndyL]

Originally posted by benyl
ok, I'll play.

Is this door any good?


Wayne dalton 9800 series - nothing wrong with them; I liked them. I'm still deciding on long term performance.



Get you can better sealing on the outside than this shitty stuff? Dust blows in. I can see daylight from the inside of the garage. I am sure the heat escape easily from there.

http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd364/bwinkelm/AC71BF7F-A5D7-43A2-91D4-06801E54B542-2706-000001964DA82CD6_zpsaa5c49b8.jpg (http://s1216.photobucket.com/user/bwinkelm/media/AC71BF7F-A5D7-43A2-91D4-06801E54B542-2706-000001964DA82CD6_zpsaa5c49b8.jpg.html)

Yeah most likely painters or cladders removed it along the way at least they didnt put it so tight the door wouldnt move :D

But yes there are better grades of weatherstrip available. And we can definitely do better installation.

[npham]

Originally posted by AndyL


Since one works and the other keeps failing - id be tempted to say - remote...

I haven't spent much time on the linears - seem to show up when the owners have already decided they're to be removed.

Which is what I'm thinking will happen soon. Care to PM a quote for removal of the current one, and install something you recommend?

[AndyL]

Contact me off beyond - not a sponsor so cant use the pm system for business related stuff - but you might notice at the bottom of this post - there's a button that says www ;) if you press that button (and a790s magic works), the info may just magically appear...

[The_Rural_Juror]

Originally posted by AndyL
Or hit that www button at the bottom of my posts and find my contact info real easy like ;)

AndyL is a bald white guy? Mind-blown:eek:

[AndyL]

:rofl: i figured most thought i was a redneck...

[carson blocks]

Is it a reasonable idea to bring someone like yourself in to 'tune-up' a working garage door? Mine works every time, but is probably 20+ years old and shakes and binds a little. Is there a general cost range for a 'tune up' or does it greatly depend on what exactly needs adjusting?

[AndyL]

Originally posted by carson blocks
Is it a reasonable idea to bring someone like yourself in to 'tune-up' a working garage door? Mine works every time, but is probably 20+ years old and shakes and binds a little. Is there a general cost range for a 'tune up' or does it greatly depend on what exactly needs adjusting?

If theres an issue (ie the shaking and binding) absolutely... annual maintenance - insurance reasons say yes... if it was my wallet it came out of - no...

Maintenance around these parts lube the rollers and bearings http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/4/Auto/3/AutoFluidsChemicals/LubricantsPenetrants/PRD~0381512P/3-in-1+Garage+Door+Lube.jsp?locale=en&stop_mobi=yes

Every 6 months disconnect the opener - run the door by hand; should be 2 fingers to open/close... double check the opener reverses with minimal force on contact (fuck the 2x4 test, stand behind the photoeye, forearm out to 90deg - hold arm still - asses if your ok with that much pressure on your car/kid/dog before it reverses - make sure opener doesnt swing to the side in the process)

Double check your cables -some gore pics at (convieniently snagged from a beyonders house) http://www.andyl.ca/cables-and-why-theyre-important/
Bottom corner of the door -if you see bad corrosion - time to address the issue...
http://www.andyl.ca/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/Corroded-Cable.jpg

Cost wise - all over the map... some start with the 60$ service call - and you'll pay 800 when he leaves... some of the bigger companies like the 99 and 149 specials then tack on fuel surcharges, shop supplies and every part at 600% markup...

[raceman6135]

BUMP!

AndyL (or anyone with experience for that matter), what is the best way to extend the range on a garage door opener?

I recently replaced an old, broken opener in my girlfriend's garage with a basic model Chamberlain chain drive model. The installation went great and the opener works well.

However, with the door closed and trying to use a remote from outside, it's hit or miss if it will open from just a few metres away. It's the same whether we use the new remote that came with the unit, or the programmable buttons in my GMC truck.

If the door is open, the range is better, but could still use improvement.

I've seen a couple of possible solutions online:

- the homemade parabolic antenna reflector (http://www.freeantennas.com/projects/template2)

- the commercially available solutions like the Liftmaster antenna extension kit part # 41A3504 (which may have been replaced by LIftMaster 86LM) (http://www.amazon.com/LiftMaster-86LM-Remote-Antenna/dp/B000HQ6BLO/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hi_1)

- and also splicing coax between the head unit and the antenna wire as in this YouTube video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=smwjAOvVACY

Any input would be great!

[AndyL]

None of the above...

First step - is to clear out the opener of CFLs or LED light bulbs (also applies to close vicinity bulbs to opener)

There are some areas that's not enough; the easiest solution is to switch over to the 888LM MyQ retrofit wall station and a compatible remote (probably wont program into your new GMC) - the new security+2.0 remotes work way better, as they're running on 3 frequencies instead of one.

There are some dead zones in calgary, There's a good one up in aspen and one in panorama - where remotes just don't seem to work well; and no matter what - there seems to be no resolution, I've tried 10+ different openers/frequencies/systems. About your only resolution there - is as above, add the 888LM wall station and a chamberlain internet gateway - then run off TCP/IP, from your phone.

[supe]

During one of the snow storms my door opened but wouldn't close. Turns out snow built up inside my garage and covered one of the sensors. I'm guessing its one of the seals. Suggestions?

[AndyL]

identify source and repair? :)

[Sugarphreak]

...

[Waldi]

Do you know where I can get panel (section) end cap for fiberglass garage door (1" thick)?

[DENZILDON]

Originally posted by Sugarphreak
I have a funky vertical mount garage door opener, it has no light on it at all… so when I close the door after I enter the garage, I get lost in darkness.

Is there any way to add a light that will stay on for 5 minutes like a typical overhead mounted unit?

Simple way.........Change your light switch that has a sensor. There's a bigger room option as well.

http://www.homedepot.ca/product/maestro-small-room-occupancy-sensing-switch/991493

[AndyL]

Waldi - pics

Phreak - timer run off open limit switch to relay to a light fixture. Yes very possible b but yes motion sensing works better ;)

[DENZILDON]

Sorry Andy, didn't mean to take away a business.. :(

How's vaping BTW? I've haven't been smoking and vaping now. almost 6 months!

[AndyL]

Not a business thread ;) just answers thread. Heck I didn't even start this one ;) (and I don't think ive fixed sillysods door either ;) )

Vaping awesome - not happy with innokin so sigelei now ;)

[Waldi]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by AndyL
[B]Waldi - pics

It took me a while , but finally was able to post some pictures

this is enlarged broken element
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5474/12210261376_c9b38ac087_m.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7296/12210048534_74d1181aba_m.jpg

[AndyL]

Thats not fiberglass thats a Wayne Dalton 9100 by the looks of it.

[email protected] - shoot me an email and we'll get you sorted out.