Vehicle Inspection worth it?

[kaddy]

Looking at 06 ford f150 tonight with over 200,000KM on it. I'll probably buy the vehicle tonight if I like it.

Is it worth getting an inspection done before I commit?
If so should I get it done at the dealership? I don't have mechanic in town that I know.

If figured If I come with cash in hand, I'll get a better price, but also don't want to get something with problems.

I will be buying a carproof or carfax for sure.

[spike98]

If its going to be a dump hauler, under $1000, and you know vehicles, then no its not worth it.

If you expect it to be reliable, not a money pit, and is more than $1000, then yes get it done.

[FraserB]

I use Dave at Broken Axle for all my work and they do inspections too. Down in Avenida

[kaddy]

Not a junk hauler for sure.

The vehicle is the North, so don't wanna have to head that far south unfortunately.

[cam_wmh]

LOL what a ridiculous question

[JRSC00LUDE]

Don't bother with one.





(the ensuing threads about all the problems and expense are always way too entertaining)

[403ep3]

You get one = smart

You don't = New Thread: I was scammed

[kaddy]

I'm going to get one if I like the truck.

I'm assuming I'd just leave a deposit and agree on terms with the inspection.

Haven't bought a used vehicle in a long time.

[zieg]

Imo, the only way an inspection is worth it is if the vehicle is worth more than about $150. If the vehicle is worth less than that, don't bother.

[Rat Fink]

.

[Boosted131]

Inspections are worth it , I was going to pay $1000 more for my truck than I did after a $50 inspection was done . Helps you low ball the seller with any little issues.

[sidewaysD]

Originally posted by Rat Fink
At that mileage I'd be worried about the following potentially expensive items:

~Rear diff may be noisy if it hasn't been overhauled yet. Listen for a growl/hum noise from the rear diff on light tip-in throttle while cruising. Look for pinion seal leaks too.
~Engine may have a rattle/shake when fully warmed up when idling in gear while stopped. It could be as minor as needing the new change-up VCT solenoids to as major as needing an engine. Go for a hard drive. Stopped in reverse with the steering wheel cranked to the stop works best for me. Lightly rev it to 1500 (while stopped and in gear) for a few seconds and then let the RPM drop quickly to idle. If it starts shaking and bucking and sounding like a diesel truck then I would budget anywhere from 1500 to 8000 dollars for the repair.
~Cruise at approx. 50km/hr and listen for a whining sound in the transmission. If there is an excessive whine and shifting in/out of tow/haul mode makes the noise come/go then you have a Torrington bearing in the back of the transmission ready to go....they usually trash the back of the case so its tranny replacement time. Check the trans fluid condition as well.
~Look for uneven tire wear. If upper balljoints haven't been done then they are probably due for it soon.
~If the IWEs haven't been changed yet, then you may have potential front hub issues that may need to be sorted out.
~If spark plugs haven't been changed then you should consider a tune-up. With those miles there will probably be at least 1 broken plug to extract.....maybe more. If all 8 break then you have made the technicians day considering the typical charge is 2.8 hrs PLUS 0.5 hr for every broken plug (6.8 hr tune-up if all 8 break that doesn't even take anywhere near that much time but that's what you'll pay!)

Get an inspection from someone reputable. I've done inspections on vehicles that appear mint (chev,dodge,ford trucks) that are only a couple years old yet you find 10,000 dollars worth of work required. It's amazing how major things can remain relatively under the radar with someone who doesn't have the knowledge until its too late.


This!

If you are mechanically inclined. If not... perhaps a Inspection is worth the loss to prevent a bigger loss.