High Mileage 335i???

[SR240SX]

Looking at buying a high mileage 335i (07' 207,000km) and am looking for some advice.

Seller has quite a bit of history records and it appears it was maintained quite well. Exterior in excellent shape as'well as interior...it really does not show its age considering the mileage.

It has had the thermostat and water pump done, No HPFP replacement nor recall, or any other serious fixes. Just routine maintenance ( battery, tires, brakes, oil changes )

Does anybody know of a good place I could take it for an inspection?

Hopefully somewhere that can have a very thorough look over it. I have no experience with BMW's what so ever so some insight on what I may be getting into would be great as'well.

Cheers!

[BMDUBS]

1: Vitek
2: Sheni's
3: Motorwerkes
4: Alpine
5: Nurburgring
6: Stealership/s

[Twin_Cam_Turbo]

I hope it's cheap with those kind of km...

[SR240SX]

Thanks BMDUBS!


What would you consider cheap ( or fair ) twin cam? Like I said the car is in excellent shape, proper maintenence records and no issues I could see...

[Neil4Speed]

Originally posted by SR240SX
Thanks BMDUBS!


What would you consider cheap ( or fair ) twin cam? Like I said the car is in excellent shape, proper maintenence records and no issues I could see...

I would say somewhere around 13k mark.

[Mitsu3000gt]

Just make sure you are getting it for an absolute steal of a deal assuming it passes inspection with flying colors. Keep in mind almost nobody wants 200K ++ cars, since there are so many others to choose from, especially with a popular car like a 3 series. When you go to sell it, nobody's going to want from you either unless it's practically being given away, so make sure you don't take a big hit on it.

Personally I wouldn't touch a 200K KM car of any kind - it's just been used too much for my liking, and there can be some spendy maintenance items when the KM get up there. If all he's done is routine maintenance, he's saving all the big stuff for the next owner.

I suspect for not too much more you could get one with half the KM.

[Boosted131]

What's wrong with a 200k vehicle? Mines got 267,000 and I figure it's good for another 200k

[LUCKYSTRIKE]

Surprised the turbos lasted that long. I'd imagine those would be the first things to go since they haven't been replaced. (I think its about $4-5k operation since the engine has to be yanked).

Listen for the waste gate rattle, lots of 335i's have it - doesn't always mean its a bad thing, Ive known people with brand new turbos that had the waste gate rattle after 1000 clicks. Start the car with the door open, roll your windows down and drive, if its obnoxiously loud it might be something you wanna look into.

[Twin_Cam_Turbo]

Originally posted by SR240SX
Thanks BMDUBS!


What would you consider cheap ( or fair ) twin cam? Like I said the car is in excellent shape, proper maintenence records and no issues I could see...

$11-13k most likely is fair. I sold me 2008 135i last December with 72000km for $22k, including some extras and two sets of wheels and tires to give you a ballpark.

[KRyn]

Originally posted by LUCKYSTRIKE
Surprised the turbos lasted that long. I'd imagine those would be the first things to go since they haven't been replaced. (I think its about $4-5k operation since the engine has to be yanked).


Completely untrue. The dealers quote 17 hours of labour to swap the turbos. The engine doesn't need to be pulled at all. Guys have removed and reinstalled new turbos in signifigantly less time on nothing more than jack stands. You are looking at about $3500.00 to replace the turbos with stockers.

[SR240SX]

Thanks for the insight guys! Much apreciated.

From what I have seen online, the waste gates seem to be the problem wth turbo failure and not so much the turbos themselves. I have also seen quite a few 335i's with similar if not more mileage still running strong.

I am quite good with vehicles and I'm sure I could figure out my way around this car, I'm sure it's no more complex then most vehicles. Hopefully the inspection can give me more info on what the car would need aswell if anything.

We negotiated 10k, seems like a decent deal?

[G-ZUS]

Originally posted by SR240SX
We negotiated 10k, seems like a decent deal?

Do it! :eek:

[Redlyne_mr2]

Amazing car for 10K

[Milk2%]

The N54 platform is a sturdy engine, I can attest to that. I know a few board members that are FBO and put 80,000 miles on since dynoing close to 420 whp on stock turbos. RB turbo upgrade for 3k and you can see close to 500whp. And you can't complain when you're getting close to 700 km on a tank of gas in city. :thumbsup:

Cars a little sluggish in the corners but if your using it as a DD i wouldn't be to concerned, a quick swap of the control arms and you can feel an immediate difference.

[G-ZUS]

This one?

http://www.kijiji.ca/v-cars-trucks/calgary/2007-bmw-335i-coupe-perfect-condition/1022726355?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true

[Neil4Speed]

Originally posted by G-ZUS


Do it! :eek:

I agree, thats a good deal if its in the condition you describe.

[Seth1968]

Originally posted by Mitsu3000gt
Personally I wouldn't touch a 200K KM car of any kind - it's just been used too much for my liking, and there can be some spendy maintenance items when the KM get up there. If all he's done is routine maintenance, he's saving all the big stuff for the next owner.

Is there any truth to, "Mainly highway KM's"?

Not that it can be proven or dis-proven, but it seems to me that constant urban starts, stops, etc, would be a factor, as opposed to highway driving.

Correct?

[SR240SX]

Originally posted by G-ZUS
This one?

http://www.kijiji.ca/v-cars-trucks/calgary/2007-bmw-335i-coupe-perfect-condition/1022726355?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true

Yup:thumbsup:

[Hallowed_point]

It's not just the drivetrain. What about all the power stuff and gadgets? At 200 kms I wouldn't touch it for that reason alone. And because it's a BMW there isn't a pick and pull or cheap aftermarket for most parts like power mirrors, switches etc. Good price though..I wish you the best of luck with it.

[KRyn]

Originally posted by Milk2%
The N54 platform is a sturdy engine, I can attest to that. I know a few board members that are FBO and put 80,000 miles on since dynoing close to 420 whp on stock turbos. RB turbo upgrade for 3k and you can see close to 500whp. And you can't complain when you're getting close to 700 km on a tank of gas in city. :thumbsup:

Cars a little sluggish in the corners but if your using it as a DD i wouldn't be to concerned, a quick swap of the control arms and you can feel an immediate difference.

To order a set of RB turbos (plus all the extras Rob suggests) you are looking at closer to $4000.00 CAD. After install (assuming you pay someone else to do it) you will be closer to $6000.00 all in.

What? There is no way you are getting 700 km to a tank of gas after going FBO. I get 600 km to a tank on the highway. In the city I am lucky to get 400 km to a tank and I am not even FBO yet.

[Hallowed_point]

No one with a modified turbo car is getting that kind of mileage in boost. If they are, I'm buying one lol

[Redlyne_mr2]

Originally posted by Hallowed_point
No one with a modified turbo car is getting that kind of mileage in boost. If they are, I'm buying one lol

I was getting 11 - 12l/100km on my 400whp n54 1m and I was in boost quite a bit.

[EM2FTL]

What would be a decent price to pay for a 2007 lower km, manual/rwd 335i? Say around 120,000kms...

[Hallowed_point]

Originally posted by Redlyne_mr2
I was getting 11 - 12l/100km on my 400whp n54 1m and I was in boost quite a bit.

That's very impressive. Well, color me surprised. How often were you in the pedal daily though? And did you drive it in rush hour stop & go?
I always thought turbo/V8 you can get good mileage, but not the power at the same time. I know that's been my real world experience..I actually got worse city mileage in my 2.4L SRT4 compared to my modded 5.7 L LS1. ymmv :nut: Same driving style.

[corsvette]

You know a 200k highway driven car is very likely in much better mechanical condition than a city driven car. I have this problem with some of the fleet trucks I deal with, people shop odometer reading only. I've had trucks with 250,000 kms that have driven 95% highway, pull the engine hours and they are around 3800. Then there's the truck that was used around town, 150,000 kms with the same hours. Of course the higher km truck is hard to sell.

Which ones better? Guarantee there is more life left in the high km truck, especially the transmission, it's had way fewer shift cycles compared to the city driven unit.

Well maintained highway miles are very easy on a car, nothing to be scared of IMO, especially cause you can get great deal's on em.

[Mitsu3000gt]

Originally posted by Seth1968


Is there any truth to, "Mainly highway KM's"?

Not that it can be proven or dis-proven, but it seems to me that constant urban starts, stops, etc, would be a factor, as opposed to highway driving.

Correct?

Correct but how can you ever know that? Especially on Kijiji, people are looking to screw you at every opportunity.

Nothing wrong with a high Km car *for the right price*. Due diligence is just extra important to make sure the seller isn't just trying to avoid a pending headache or repair cost.

My avoiding 100-200km cars is more a personal thing :D. I have a mental block at 100K KM.

[killramos]

At highway speeds the turbos run hot and hard so I aiuld say highway Kim's are more damaging to a turbo car than NA. Not saying it's better or worse than turbo in city, that would be a heck of a study.

[Hallowed_point]

Originally posted by Mitsu3000gt
Correct but how can you ever know that? Especially on Kijiji, people are looking to screw you at every opportunity.

Nothing wrong with a high Km car *for the right price*. Due diligence is just extra important to make sure the seller isn't just trying to avoid a pending headache or repair cost.

My avoiding 100-200km cars is more a personal thing :D. I have a mental block at 100K KM.

I agree with cosvette..but as you say, how can you verify anything especially with an older car that doesn't have an advanced computer? Every car I've bought has been just north 100 kms. As long as you know what you're getting into (research, talk to owners, basic mechanical aptitude) you should be fine. Know the "known" issues with the model all that good stuff. I don't like how dealerships expect everyone to dump their cars at 3 years and buy new again. Fuck that..

[Hallowed_point]

Originally posted by killramos
At highway speeds the turbos run hot and hard so I aiuld say highway Kim's are more damaging to a turbo car than NA. Not saying it's better or worse than turbo in city, that would be a heck of a study.

Would that be because they aren't getting oil fed to them off boost? Heat soak from a hot engine? Honestly curious..I've never heard of that but it kind of makes sense :confused:

I also think there is a big difference from loading an up to temp engine with fresh fluids and bagging on your car off a cold start. I think it's good to flog your car every day, weather permitting.

[Rocket1k78]

Lady driven and mostly highway kms :nut: This could be true but this is kijiji after all......

[Mitsu3000gt]

I thought at highway speeds (2000 RPM cruising at 110 or whatever) that the turbos are barely doing anything since there is essentially no load on them with minimal throttle input and low RPMs.

Also regarding the lady driven comment above, that is a big turn off for me when I see that used. No disrespect, but every girl I personally know doesn't look after their cars very well. They like to bring their dogs in with them, often curb rims, do makup in the car, wear lotions that get everywhere, brush snow off the paint, dry steer, park where they get door dings, put their purses & bags on the paint, etc. I can only speak for the ones I know of course!

[SR240SX]

The guy seemed to be quite honest, told me just about everything about the car including stuff he could have easily left out. Also the big stack of maintenance records has me feeling more at ease.


I don't think he meant it was lady driven it's whole life, but it was driven by his wife for the time they owned it. Prior to that his uncle owned it and judging by everything I saw, he took great care of it.

for the price I can easily afford the repairs it may need, and being a DIY type of guy...it shouldn't be too expensive to keep it running.


Again, I Apreciate all the comments!

[Hallowed_point]

Originally posted by Mitsu3000gt
I thought at highway speeds (2000 RPM cruising at 110 or whatever) that the turbos are barely doing anything since there is essentially no load on them with minimal throttle input and low RPMs.

Also regarding the lady driven comment above, that is a big turn off for me when I see that used. No disrespect, but every girl I personally know doesn't look after their cars very well. They like to bring their dogs in with them, often curb rims, do makup in the car, wear lotions that get everywhere, brush snow off the paint, dry steer, park where they get door dings, put their purses & bags on the paint, etc. I can only speak for the ones I know of course!

Thanks for the explanation.

LOL..totally agree..muffler hanging off. My gf must try and get air speeding over speed bumps in her hyundai. I told her "hun, it ain't a raptor you're going to crack the oil pan."

I avoid girl owned cars like the plague. I find most women don't know what's going on with it as long as the wheels turn it's ok. Not changing the oil or keeping tire pressures up. I know one that never changed the oil in her new car because no one told her to. Guess what happened to the engine. That's not to say that there aren't female enthusiasts or dumb dumb guy owners though.

[Rocket1k78]

Originally posted by SR240SX
The guy seemed to be quite honest, told me just about everything about the car including stuff he could have easily left out. Also the big stack of maintenance records has me feeling more at ease.


I don't think he meant it was lady driven it's whole life, but it was driven by his wife for the time they owned it. Prior to that his uncle owned it and judging by everything I saw, he took great care of it.

for the price I can easily afford the repairs it may need, and being a DIY type of guy...it shouldn't be too expensive to keep it running.


Again, I Apreciate all the comments!

My English isn't the greatest so i'm sure i just misunderstood when the ad said "lady driven" when it actually meant "lady driven sometimes". Joking aside as long as you know what you're getting into and can afford the possible repairs you're golden because everyone is saying its a good deal.

[SR240SX]

Originally posted by Rocket1k78


My English isn't the greatest so i'm sure i just misunderstood when the ad said "lady driven" when it actually meant "lady driven sometimes". Joking aside as long as you know what you're getting into and can afford the possible repairs you're golden because everyone is saying its a good deal.

I'm just expanding on what I believe he ment by "lady driven"

I think it's a good deal as'well, will see what the inspection brings.

[Milk2%]

Originally posted by KRyn


To order a set of RB turbos (plus all the extras Rob suggests) you are looking at closer to $4000.00 CAD. After install (assuming you pay someone else to do it) you will be closer to $6000.00 all in.

What? There is no way you are getting 700 km to a tank of gas after going FBO. I get 600 km to a tank on the highway. In the city I am lucky to get 400 km to a tank and I am not even FBO yet.

Turbos - 3000
Gaskets - 250
PVC valve - 40

3300$ if you have any brains and some equipment the install can take 10-16 hours depending on your knowledge and equipment.

BMW's list time is 16 hours and that's an exaggeration remove the subframe and it makes the job much easier. Many shops in town you can get that down to 1500$ for an install if you don't want to bother.

But again winters here so if you plan to garage your car its a no brainer for you to DIY.

Well i might have worded it a little wrong but if your out of boost and not on the pedal which is hard, i have achieved just shy of 700km a tank and close to 800 highway. I'm half bolt on but if you drive properly you should get close to those numbers.....

[Milk2%]

Originally posted by killramos
At highway speeds the turbos run hot and hard so I aiuld say highway Kim's are more damaging to a turbo car than NA. Not saying it's better or worse than turbo in city, that would be a heck of a study.

False information - all of it. :banghead:

[KRyn]

Originally posted by Milk2%


Turbos - 3000
Gaskets - 250
PVC valve - 40

3300$ if you have any brains and some equipment the install can take 10-16 hours depending on your knowledge and equipment.

BMW's list time is 16 hours and that's an exaggeration remove the subframe and it makes the job much easier. Many shops in town you can get that down to 1500$ for an install if you don't want to bother.


Well i might have worded it a little wrong but if your out of boost and not on the pedal which is hard, i have achieved just shy of 700km a tank and close to 800 highway. I'm half bolt on but if you drive properly you should get close to those numbers.....

Don't forget shipping (recieving your new turbos and sending your old ones back for the core exchange), tax and the terrible looney. You will be much closer to $4000.00 in parts alone.

I suppose if you did the speed limit getting that kind of mileage could be possible with a tailwind, but who actually does the speed limit on the highway?

[Canucks3322]

My 06 Pathfinder was bought with 260,000 km but the owner drove from Calgary to Olds everyday and had the busi ness card and ID to prove it... so far Ive put another 10,000 km and still drives like new all I did was put a new drive belt and tensioner on and it was easy enough to do myself..receipts show tranny rebuild not too long ago and rerouting of tranny cooling done by visual inspection. .. Knock on wood its been great but i didn't want to risk daily driving it so I bought something newer....so OP if you're daily driving it and you're not mechanically inclined Id avoid it is just not work the potential headaches esp on something that's not known for reliability and cheapness of parts.

[Milk2%]

Originally posted by KRyn


Don't forget shipping (recieving your new turbos and sending your old ones back for the core exchange), tax and the terrible looney. You will be much closer to $4000.00 in parts alone.

I suppose if you did the speed limit getting that kind of mileage could be possible with a tailwind, but who actually does the speed limit on the highway?

This was cruising around 140 km. I really don't need to argue anymore i have done it a handful of times. 140 is a fairly moderate highway speed :dunno:

Also again if you have brains and you're purchasing something in USD (over 1K) you'd best wait till the dollar is doing well before making that purchase.

[never]

Originally posted by Milk2%

Also again if you have brains and you're purchasing something in USD (over 1K) you'd best wait till the dollar is doing well before making that purchase.

Waiting isn't always an option. And talking to some financial guys...they aren't expecting the dollar to get better than $0.90 for the foreseeable future.

[Milk2%]

Originally posted by never


Waiting isn't always an option. And talking to some financial guys...they aren't expecting the dollar to get better than $0.90 for the foreseeable future.

To much speculation about the market it can go up or down. Just wait till next spring/summer well see ;)
Also when you're looking for an upgrade there is always time....

[Twin_Cam_Turbo]

I never got better economy than 7.95L/100km in my 135I, cruising at exactly 70km/h unloaded for an entire tank of fuel.

I wouldn't really expect anyone to beat that unless in extreme situations, 700km/tank in the city would not happen imo.

[Seth1968]

Kind of on topic.

I've got exclusive info on a 97 Toyota Avalon (please don't laugh).

270,000 kms, and suffice to say, it's in incredible condition. It's been owned by a customer of mine (a senior lady), but it doesn't even smell like an old car, or a senior for that matter.

The body and interior seems close to new, and the engine has no unusual sounds.

When she finally decides on a new car, I get the Avalon for $1000.

[Jeff TYPE R]

Interesting thread...


Originally posted by Neil4Speed


I would say somewhere around 13k mark.

I paid $19k for a 2008 335 XI with 49k. So I'd say this car is worth $7500.


Originally posted by LUCKYSTRIKE
Listen for the waste gate rattle, lots of 335i's have it - doesn't always mean its a bad thing, Ive known people with brand new turbos that had the waste gate rattle after 1000 clicks.

Except that in the case of the N54, the rattle is caused by the actuator rod loosening up...meaning that rattle is a precursor to loss of boost and the only real fix is turbo replacement...not worth it on a low value car.

Originally posted by Milk2%
The N54 platform is a sturdy engine, I can attest to that.

It's known as one of the biggest duds of the automotive world when it comes to reliability. Amazing powerband and smoothness, but shit reliability. Sturdy..haha no.

Originally posted by Redlyne_mr2


I was getting 11 - 12l/100km on my 400whp n54 1m and I was in boost quite a bit.

I never did better than 12l/100km city driving in any of my N54 powered cars, tuned or not. But that has more to do with douchebag driving than anything else. On the highway cruising at 110, I could get around 9...cruising at 170 around 11.

[Milk2%]

Originally posted by Jeff TYPE R
Interesting thread...

It's known as one of the biggest duds of the automotive world when it comes to reliability. Amazing powerband and smoothness, but shit reliability. Sturdy..haha no.

When i talk platform i refer to the engine block itself...Not so much the components... its been very reliable for myself and many others. You do hear about lemons and the typical HPFP, Injectors and coils which are covered under warranty. These things i don't mind replacing but having to rebuild a block due to a warping block, blown piston rings etc in which you see on some FI engines it makes you think otherwise.

I've only heard of 2 blown engines, both were being heavily modified and pushing the boundaries of timing which speaks for itself. Close to 600rwhp

[Redlyne_mr2]

Originally posted by Twin_Cam_Turbo
I never got better economy than 7.95L/100km in my 135I, cruising at exactly 70km/h unloaded for an entire tank of fuel.

I wouldn't really expect anyone to beat that unless in extreme situations, 700km/tank in the city would not happen imo.

The 1 series has a much smaller tank than the 3's.

[Redlyne_mr2]

Originally posted by Jeff TYPE R
Interesting thread...

It's known as one of the biggest duds of the automotive world when it comes to reliability. Amazing powerband and smoothness, but shit reliability. Sturdy..haha no.



I dunno man, I disagree with this comment. The n54 is one of the best engines BMW ever built. The ancillary systems were prone to issues but it's weird. I would find that the n54s with issues from day one would always have problems where as the ones with no issues would remain immensely reliable.

What I can tell you is there are a ton of modified n54 bimmers rolling around with little to no issues.

[BensonTT]

2007 Accord around 9 k.. 2007 BMW around 10k.. LOL :rofl:

[Inzane]

Originally posted by Mitsu3000gt
Also regarding the lady driven comment above, that is a big turn off for me when I see that used. No disrespect, but every girl I personally know doesn't look after their cars very well. They like to bring their dogs in with them, often curb rims, do makup in the car, wear lotions that get everywhere, brush snow off the paint, dry steer, park where they get door dings, put their purses & bags on the paint, etc. I can only speak for the ones I know of course!

^ I think you nailed it. :thumbsup:

[Milk2%]

Originally posted by Redlyne_mr2


I dunno man, I disagree with this comment. The n54 is one of the best engines BMW ever built. The ancillary systems were prone to issues but it's weird. I would find that the n54s with issues from day one would always have problems where as the ones with no issues would remain immensely reliable.

What I can tell you is there are a ton of modified n54 bimmers rolling around with little to no issues.

Agreed :thumbsup:

[GTS Jeff]

Originally posted by Redlyne_mr2


I dunno man, I disagree with this comment. The n54 is one of the best engines BMW ever built. The ancillary systems were prone to issues but it's weird. I would find that the n54s with issues from day one would always have problems where as the ones with no issues would remain immensely reliable.

What I can tell you is there are a ton of modified n54 bimmers rolling around with little to no issues. I hear what you're saying...Yes, there's a lot of metal and the block won't ever turn to chunks even with tons of power...

But I'd really reserve "immensely reliable" for engines that need nothing but oil changes. Sure, the N54 has plenty of problems with the "ancillary systems" but that just downplays the fact that they'll still leave you in trouble when they quit on a road trip through rural places. HPFP is straightforward, but it does leave you stranded. The car eating coils, plugs, and injectors (especially when tuned) every year gets pricey fast AND it's not exactly fun to have one die and have to limp home to troubleshoot. I had gotten to the point of proactively replacing all of them. SIDE RANT, IF BMW IS GOING TO MAKE IT NECESSARY TO CHANGE THE PLUGS SO OFTEN ON THIS CAR, WHY WOULD THEY MAKE AN N54 SPECIFIC PLUG SOCKET?! And what about the infamous wastegate actuator play? That's not exactly an ancillary system anymore.

Tons of enthusiasts run RB turbos or whatever on their N54s reliably, but let's remember why everyone upgraded in the first place...because the factory turbos die! I think that type of enthusiast has a different definition of reliable. "It's reliable...as long as you replace a fuel pump every 30k, carry spare coil packs in the trunk, and shell out thousands to fix flawed factory parts."

And that reminds me, after all this, the engine still has major issues handling heat on the track. In bone stock form, cruising around town, the oil temps sit at 120 C. On the track, to prevent heat problems, you need a minimum of upgraded intercooler, upgraded oil cooler, and transmission cooler for the autos. There's even a coined term for it on bimmerpost, "limp mode party" which is one of the biggest threads on that forum.

I loved driving that motor, but man the anxiety and anticipation of breakdowns is too much for me. Gawd damn, look at this huge rant you got me on now!

Ps. I will try my luck with a (less capable but hopefully more reliable) N55 powered car if given the chance.

[jaylo]

N54 is discontinued and replaced by N55, 'nuff said.

[jaylo]

I would set aside $5-10K just in case, if you want to consider a 200km BMW let alone an N54. Also think about long term where you dump all the $$$ to fix and end up selling for $9K or less in a couple of years.

[SR240SX]

5-10k for repairs seems a bit over the top.

I will be able to perform just about any of the work it needs, even turbo replacement if need be. I won't be taking it into the dealer so the assumption of paying 5k for new turbos or 1400 waterpump replacement, ain't gonna happen!

I'd like to see the glass as half full here, cars are engineered to last and you still see 80 ' s and 90 's cars cruising around. Sure they might not be as high performance, but engines are engines...with proper care they can last.

All you see on the Web is the unhappy 335i owners lol, the ones with no issues are too busy driving to be on forums bitching;)

If this car has made the 200km mark without much issue, I can't see it not going another 100:burnout:

[Hallowed_point]

I hear what you're saying..but 80s and 90s cars are much simpler machines than a newer bmw. Less features and fancy parts to wear out/fail.

[jaylo]

Hi,
I accounted labour charge on my estimate, if you are a DIY kind of guy then you can cut the cost by half.

I don't know, I felt that the N54 is a "ticking" time bomb and you'll never know when it will go.

Example, the HPFP could leave you stranded, and the turbo issues (wastegate rattle, etc)

Brake job are about $1K OEM DIY, the run flats, if you have the 19x8, 19x9 are about $500/each

Not to fear-monger, but these vehicles cost quite a bit to maintain

[sneek]

This is one of the most fun cars I have owned, but I can't say I thought it was reliable. Just like everybody else, HPFP and injectorsX2 were replaced within the first couple of years. After that it was pretty solid. I remember freaking out when I had to go to work one day, pushed to start and all I saw was a huge cloud of smoke! The very first thing I would do with this car is upgrade the oil cooler if it has one.

:( For me, if this car didn't have 20+K of warranty work done on it during my 3 or so years of ownership, I would have kept it. They are a great daily driver in Calgary and the aftermarket and enthusiast support is phenomenal.

[Redlyne_mr2]

Originally posted by jaylo
N54 is discontinued and replaced by N55, 'nuff said.

It was more because of costs and the n54 was way too much engine for an every day street car. N55 makes more sense for the average car buyer and for production costs.

[GTS Jeff]

Originally posted by SR240SX

If this car has made the 200km mark without much issue, I can't see it not going another 100:burnout:

Yeah, it's basically a Toyota Hilux! It's definitely NOT a revolutionary high output motor pushing the limits of technology and engineering of its time and made by a company known to be on the lower end of creating reliable vehicles...right?

But seriously, it sounds like your mind is made up, so go for it. Just read up on coding and get good with it, because you need to code for everything you do to the car, even a replacement battery.

[M.alex]

You guys are all a bunch of pussies; this car has over a million KMs on it and just keeps rolling along; I'm sure your Toyotas and BMWs can do it just as well :burnout:

http://luxurycarsworld.net/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/pagani-zonda-nonno-video-02_1100.jpg

:angel:

[Rocket1k78]

Originally posted by SR240SX


If this car has made the 200km mark without much issue, I can't see it not going another 100:burnout:

I cant agree with this comment either. 200k-300k is nothing like 100k-200k. Sounds like you know what you're getting into but I don't think its safe to say just because the car has done 200k it'll do another 100k no problem. Good luck

[G-ZUS]

Originally posted by M.alex
You guys are all a bunch of pussies; this car has over a million KMs on it and just keeps rolling along; I'm sure your Toyotas and BMWs can do it just as well :burnout:

http://luxurycarsworld.net/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/pagani-zonda-nonno-video-02_1100.jpg

is that an e30 in the background?

:angel:

[KO22]

I just bought a car with 357K, pff it run's beautifully! One owner to haha, TDI's FTW

[16hypen3sp]

What acceptable or average for mileage for a car from 2003? Seriously considering selling my 350Z and getting out of the "sports car" game for a bit.

[Black Gts]

Imo 20k a year is average give or take. After 10 years that's out the window really and it's a car to car basis.

[italianstylez]

Fyi wastegate rattle is easy
To fix yourself tighten the actuator rod with a small 4" wrench done deal no need for turbo replacement
Also everyday I see a 1/2/3/4 series turbo at least half still get wastegate rattle even with under 10k
My 335 is great change your water pump plan for a fuel pump and check pressure convertors as well, they tend to leak and cause boost loss , easy fix, hard to find without doing a smoke test

[Neil4Speed]

Originally posted by 16hypen3sp
What acceptable or average for mileage for a car from 2003? Seriously considering selling my 350Z and getting out of the "sports car" game for a bit.

Although 20k/per is acceptable, I find that the buyers really drop off after the 140k mark. People generally don't want a high mileage sports car.

[killramos]

Originally posted by Neil4Speed


Although 20k/per is acceptable, I find that the buyers really drop off after the 140k mark. People generally don't want a high mileage sports car.

Yea I would HAVE to assume that at some point in those 140k it was bagged on for a significant period of time...

[Hallowed_point]

Originally posted by Neil4Speed
Although 20k/per is acceptable, I find that the buyers really drop off after the 140k mark. People generally don't want a high mileage sports car.

For me, I like to stick around the 100xxx-115xxx kms mark on used cars. I totally agree that it's almost certain it's been bagged on with that mileage. It can turn into a money pit really quickly once you get around 150 kms in my experience.

[16hypen3sp]

Good to know. Thanks guys. My 350Z just rolled over 75000 km's. Looks like most of its life was spent sitting inside a garage.