How do I remove my furnace humidifier?

[Mar]

Right now this thing is full of hard water build up and it's dripping out the bottom. I have a bucket under it but it's filling a 5 gallon bucket every 2 days. I might replace it in the future but how do I remove it right now?

It's attached to the copper pipe using one of those screw piercing pieces and when I tried turning the knob on that to loosen it, I cracked the twisty knob off. I do have a new replacement piercer assembly I can put there in its place but I don't exactly know how to do this.

Where do I turn off the water? The knob right above it? Coming into the house? Do I then have to wait for the hot water tank to drain? Then do I just remove the piercing assembly from the copper pipe, add the new one and that will plug it?

Here is the setup, the metal humidifier attached to the furnace and some of the white buckets underneath it.

http://www.danmaher.com/images/water3.jpg

http://www.danmaher.com/images/water2.jpg

http://www.danmaher.com/images/water1.jpg

[StreetRacerX]

If you just want to stop the water going to the humidifie and stop the leak, buy a 3/8" brass cap, shut off the gate valve supplying the hwt with cold water and drain the tank enough so that when you remove the water supply line from the valve you busted you don't get sprayed then install the brass cap.

[sputnik]

Step 1 - Get a plumber to replace the saddle valve with a real ball valve (or do it yourself).

Step 2 - Punch the plumber who added a saddle valve to your plumbing.

[StreetRacerX]

If that valve on hwt is passing you will have to shut down your main, from the picture of the meters you took yours is likely the top.

[raceman6135]

For the time being, you may even be able to use a Vise-Grip to close the saddle valve (the valve attached to the black humidifier hose).

If that fails, then do as others have stated: close that gate valve immediately above the saddle valve, open a hot tap in the basement (or at the base of the water heater) and drain enough water to either replace the saddle valve with the new one you have, or buy a cap to replace the nut-and-ferrule-and-hose arrangement currently on there.

If/when you do upgrade your humidifier, install a quarter-turn ball valve in place of the saddle valve. In fact, if you have the water completely shut off during that job, you should replace that gate valve with a ball valve. It looks like the seal in it is starting to fail as evidenced by the calcium on the valve stem.

There was a time when rebuilding gate valves with new seats and gaskets was typical maintenance, but now, it's cheaper to replace.

[gogreen]

Originally posted by sputnik
Step 1 - Get a plumber to replace the saddle valve with a real ball valve (or do it yourself).

Step 2 - Punch the plumber who added a saddle valve to your plumbing.

Agreed!

[firebane]

[i]

Step 2 - Punch the plumber who added a saddle valve to your plumbing. [/B]

Fuck saddle valves. Biggest pieces of shit and such a cheap way out.

[suntan]

They're not even code, how the hell did it end up there??

[Mar]

Originally posted by StreetRacerX
If you just want to stop the water going to the humidifie and stop the leak, buy a 3/8" brass cap, shut off the gate valve supplying the hwt with cold water and drain the tank enough so that when you remove the water supply line from the valve you busted you don't get sprayed then install the brass cap.
How do I install the brass cap? Just screw it in? Do I get one at Rona?


Originally posted by sputnik
Step 1 - Get a plumber to replace the saddle valve with a real ball valve (or do it yourself).

Step 2 - Punch the plumber who added a saddle valve to your plumbing.
How does the ball valve attach? Is soldering required?


Originally posted by StreetRacerX
If that valve on hwt is passing you will have to shut down your main, from the picture of the meters you took yours is likely the top.
What do you mean by passing?


Originally posted by raceman6135
For the time being, you may even be able to use a Vise-Grip to close the saddle valve (the valve attached to the black humidifier hose).
I could but I'd like to remove it to avoid future damage.

[mr2mike]

Wow and they tapped it that close to the HW tank. Let me guess, on the hot side too? Surprised it lasted as long as it did.
Some DIY plumber from Kijiji?

While you're in there, get a proper ball valve for HWT shut off.

Personally, I'd get a length of copper and just redo the pipe. It will require soldering.

The flex lines aren't allowed right off the HWT. You need something like a foot or two then can go pex or flex.

[StreetRacerX]

Saddle valves are commonly used for humidifier lines especially in older homes. Unless you use all compression fittings your going to end up soldering in at least a tee off the cold line if you want a new shutoff for the humidifier.

Passing refers to water leaking through a valve when it is in the closed position.

You should be able to get the 3/8 cap from Rona/Home Depot, the cap just threads on the valve after you remove the line.

[Mar]

Success! I picked up a 1/4 inch brass cap at Rona and grabbed the saddle valve a plumber gave me 4 years ago. I turned off the water to the house, turned off the gas to the water tank, drained the tank and swapped the valves. Instead of putting the hose back on the outlet, I put the cap on it.

I absolutely had to do this today, the rate of water loss increased to a full 5 gallon bucket per day. Now I just need to remove the humidifier.

http://www.danmaher.com/images/furnace/furnace2.jpg

http://www.danmaher.com/images/furnace/furnace1.jpg