Buying a truck ~10k budget

[loweg]

So I'm being taken out of my kei car, micro machine element, and need to get a truck for hauling a trailer. Wife has decided she's a "camper" now.
It's gonna be a decent size trailer maybe 27-30 foot.

Now my dilemma is that I have no idea what I should be looking at for trucks . I know there are truck fanboys dodge this, ford that, import only etc....

Looking for advice on makes and models that fit that kinda budget plus or minus say 2-3k. Don't need you guys to scour Kijiji for me as I'm not quite ready to pull the trigger (gotta clear the stable a bit first or the neighbors wil kill me ( 6 cars). Anyone looking for an alto?

Looking more for advice like the ford 5.4 litre is prone to this or that or something like this dodge engine is bulletproof....

Currently been watching the 2004-2009 f150 with the 5.4.

Also forgot to mention two young children (under 4) so need crew cab
Thanks In advance

[r3ccOs]

i think the price point of the 5.4 in the old gen F150s are reflective of the issues with their cam phasers, as anything over 120k km+ seem to start showing signs of wear (ticking)

Probably cheapest if you found an extended cab, as the kids should be small enough.. and I'd probably lean towards a silverado/sierra from the same era you're looking for the F150

I haven't heard anything bad about the Dodge engine or transmission, but apparently lots of issues with the sterring components.

[HiTempguy1]

The 5.4 also has two major issues with spark plugs.

One is them blowing out due to too few threads in the head, the other is the spark plugs breaking when trying to be removed.

This varies depending on model year, I forget which is which.

Simply put, if you want something stone reliable with the best mpg, you want a gm truck. There is a reason why there are very few used ones on the lots, and that is because everyone wants them.

Budget $1500 to $2k for the transmission in a 1988-2007 gm to be rebuilt (if it hasnt been already) and you are golden.

[loweg]

Just the kinda advice I'm looking for guys thanks.

Keep em coming

[dirtsniffer]

find a new wife.

[ExtraSlow]

you need to work backwards from the weight of the trailer to figure out what truck you want.
Half ton trailer ratings vary wildly with different configurations, from under 7000 lbs to 12,000 lbs. Trailer weights also vary a lot. Always go by the GVWR of the trailer, not the "dry" weight.

I'm a Ford Fanboy, you can look up all the trailer tow ratings for each configuration on the fleet website. Just google "ford fleet trailer guide" and whatever year you are looking at, they have at least a decade on there.

Hopefully some resource like that exists for the other brands.

If you are looking to save some money, as suggested above, get a supercab and not a crew cab. If you can get away with 2wd, that's a lot cheaper, and much less maintenance.

As for the spark plug issues on the Ford 5.4L engine, it's rpetty well documented when they fixed that. Don't be scared of that engine, it's actually pretty stout if you aren't afraid to let it rev.
For Ford, staying newer than 2009 gets you the new 6-speed transmission, which is much better than the previous one. I took a quick look on kijiji and there are two F150's of the recent bodystyle under 10k. I've linked to the one I'd pick.
The 5.0L engine gets better fuel economy then the 5.4L, and about the same power.
d2011 Ford F-150 XLT Super Cab 5L V8 w/Microsoft Sync (http://www.kijiji.ca/v-cars-trucks/calgary/2011-ford-f-150-xlt-super-cab-5l-v8-w-microsoft-sync/1047504639?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true)

[loweg]

2 kids and a business.... Trailer is cheaper lol

Appreciate the insight though

[BerserkerCatSplat]

Originally posted by HiTempguy1
The 5.4 also has two major issues with spark plugs.

One is them blowing out due to too few threads in the head, the other is the spark plugs breaking when trying to be removed.

This varies depending on model year, I forget which is which.


2V's tend to spit plugs, early 3V's have the two-piece plug, 2008+ 3V's have no spark plug issues due to redesigned heads.

[ShermanEF9]

thats a big trailer to be hauling around with an older half ton. you'll want a bigger truck.

[s_havinga]

^ What Sherman said. Or at least a big fuel tank. I was pulling my 28' trailer with a 2011 Silverado 1500 an the mileage was pathetic, under 200K to the tank (90L). I traded up for a 2500HD duramax, mnow I get around 300K to the same size tank.

In retrospect, installing a 200L tank in the 1500 would have been an alright option, the 5.3 pulled the trailer fine, even through the mountains just was very thirsty. In daily driving I get worse mileage in the 2500 so in the end I would probably have saved money sticking with gas.

[ShermanEF9]

not only from the fuel consumption side of things. a half ton will be squirly crawling along with that, and will probably sag like the queen of englands tits. my trucks rated to pull 10,000... but i never would because it wouldn't do it well.

[danno]

I had a 2004 fx4 f150 I had the ticking problems but it still drove perfect just ticked. I sold it before the sparkplugs had to be replaced, ford has a special tool to get them out apparently. I had a leak at my rear main engine seal, very small 1 drip a day. And the diff had a leaky gasket that got replaced.

It had a 160k km. Was horrible on gas $120 back then got me 400km. This was 2011, bought a new ram 1500 I get 600km for $80-$90.

If you are getting a 1500 I'd get newer as they are so much more fuel efficient.

[SOAB]

here is what i had before and i used it to tow my current trailer which is:

33'8" bumper to ball
7600 GVWR
Reese Straitline weight distributing hitch with the Dual-cam anti-sway

2005 F150 5.4L Supercrew shortbox

i put on a set of E rated tires and firestone airbags to help with porpoising. i was definitely over the GVWR of the truck but under all the other ratings including GAWR and GCWR.

my set-up towed like a rock. never had any issues with sway or the trailer trying to push me around.

i have to say that it tows it better than my 2014 does but it doesn't have the power of my ecoboost.

it would definitely hold 90kph up hills with the trailer behind it.

[r3ccOs]

Originally posted by SOAB
here is what i had before and i used it to tow my current trailer which is:

33'8" bumper to ball
7600 GVWR
Reese Straitline weight distributing hitch with the Dual-cam anti-sway

2005 F150 5.4L Supercrew shortbox

i put on a set of E rated tires and firestone airbags to help with porpoising. i was definitely over the GVWR of the truck but under all the other ratings including GAWR and GCWR.

my set-up towed like a rock. never had any issues with sway or the trailer trying to push me around.

i have to say that it tows it better than my 2014 does but it doesn't have the power of my ecoboost.

it would definitely hold 90kph up hills with the trailer behind it.

I have about the same sized of trailer, but for a bumper pull, regardless of the weight distribution hitch (which should be manditory!), its just almost too much for a half ton.

In fact, unless you are leaving a trailer that large at an RV plot, like mine... anything >28 feet should almost be a 5th wheel.

Its definately not the weight of the trailer, but rather the fact you're pulling a kite, that a heavier longer large truck would provide more stability.

[ExtraSlow]

We are getting a little off topic, but a supercrew, even with a shortbox, is still a pretty long, heavy truck. Not saying a one-ton isn't longer and heavier, but it's my opinion that you can follow the trailer tow suggestions made by the manufacturer, and as long as you have your WD set up correctly, you are in a safe situation.

[SOAB]

Meh, I can say that it towed it just fine. It was extremely stable behind me.

I was driving on a 2-lane, undivided highway with the trailer in tow and coming the opposite way was a semi with a 53' trailer behind it. As we passed each other, the wind pressure was enough to rip my bug deflector off my hood! I saw it fly straight up and to the right off the road. The trailer didn't even flinch. With my previous set-up, I barely felt the bow-wave as I was either passing or being passed by semi trucks.

set up the hitch correctly, load the trailer correctly with the correct tongue weight and you will be fine.

[Masked Bandit]

For a bigger trailer like that you're going to want something better than an F150 or Chev 1500 in that price range unless you're going to stay on flat ground. If you're going into the mountains, forget it. Chev / GM 2500 with a 6.0L or better yet the 8.1L but they're hard to find. I don't know about Ford 250s with gas so I can't comment on that. If you can find a 2009 or later Ram 1500 in that price range it might work. On paper the Ram has a fairly low tow rating (9500 lbs give or take depending on equipment) but it has the strongest engine of the bunch, by far.

As for long term reliability, once you've dropped down to that price range pretty much everything is going to have it's old age warts, you just have to pick your poison. GMs tend to have electrical problems, Dodges like to eat through front ends and Fords, well, they love tow trucks. Don't ever buy a Ford. Ever. I'm not even kidding. Not even a little bit. Okay, maybe a little bit. But don't buy a Ford.
;)

[HiTempguy1]

Originally posted by BerserkerCatSplat


2V's tend to spit plugs, early 3V's have the two-piece plug, 2008+ 3V's have no spark plug issues due to redesigned heads.

And he is shopping $10k price range including any TLC AND he has said he needs a crew cab (or the full 4 door model, whatever they call it). Probably isn't going to get a 2008+ for that kind of money that is in decent mechanical shape to tow a 27-30' travel trailer. I'm assuming dude is not a car guy, and will not be doing his own mechanical repairs on the truck which I think is a fair assumption to make. Hell, even though Beyond is full of "car guys", most still pay a mechanic to do the heavy work.

I also disagree with the Ford fanboi ExtraSlow :p

The concept of "towing capacity" based on weight completely changes when you factor in pulling something with the aerodynamics of a house. I do like you saying to base it off gvrw of the trailer, since that makes sense as most travel trailers are loaded to max gvrw. But that doesn't take into account a 7000lb brick house is different than towing a 7000lb trailer:

http://roadslesstraveled.us/lynx/

For an example of a 27' travel trailer just so we are all on the same page.

I still stand by my statement of looking at a GM truck. There is a reason why they hold their value better and are few and far between used compared to all the Fords and Dodges. When people say "electrical" issues, they don't mean stranded on the side of the road, they really mean interior electrical issues.

I can live with my 2008 GMC's 2500HD not locking the doors from the drivers side button (only passenger side works on the interior, but the key fob is fine). As Masked Bandit says, I can not live with being broken down and having to call a tow truck.

Another thing I will say, you should really try to get a newer truck that has either a 5 or 6 or 8 speed. Transmission is waaaay more important than the motor. I'd rather a 3.6L pentastar Dodge with the 8 speed then my old tbi gmc with the 4 speed auto.

[SOAB]

the issue with going with the Chevy 3/4 ton 6.0L is that it is not that big of a bump in power yet it would be in a heavier vehicle. it may be more stable but then you have to daily a 3/4 ton. your fuel mileage will be the same while towing and worse while doing D/D duties.

so its a compromise either way. for me, only towing 10 times a year at most, a half ton makes sense. with a few mods, a half ton is definitely capable of towing a decent size trailer.

watch out for the notoriously low payload ratings on the Dodge Ram half tons.

[SOAB]

I also agree with HiTempguy1 that a 6 speed transmission will be a big improvement for towing over the 4 speed.

[ExtraSlow]

hitemp and masked bandit, if you have some solid reliability stats to back up your claims, I'd love to see it. If not, you're as guilty of being fanboys as I am, but at least I'm honest about it.

And I'll third (or fourth) the comment that the extra gearing is a big improvement.

[Redlyne_mr2]

Ive got a 2002 Silverado 2500LT crew cab 6.6L diesel on my lot that I can sell to you for that $10K mark. It's been inspected so you're not going in blind and drives really nice.

[r3ccOs]

Originally posted by ExtraSlow
We are getting a little off topic, but a supercrew, even with a shortbox, is still a pretty long, heavy truck. Not saying a one-ton isn't longer and heavier, but it's my opinion that you can follow the trailer tow suggestions made by the manufacturer, and as long as you have your WD set up correctly, you are in a safe situation.

SOAB & Extraslow... I know this will forever be a point of contention amongst a number of us, however I guess its all perspective.

I've heard that the tow rating is not based on a SAE type of universal standard, and may not account for the type of grades we deal with in the Rocky Mountains.

I'd say almost 95% of my towing conditions, I can tow my "half ton rated" series of Autumridge trailers, perfectly fine.
Even with Water and all sorts of dishes, clothing, gear, etc.. it weighs in around 9300 lbs, which is well below my tow rating of 11,300...

However, when you try taking that trailer on 22 south, and you get hit by some bad wind conditions to boot... you wish you had more weight on the front end, and more torque to keep your speed.

Now, would a 1 ton really make "that much of a difference"? I'd say enough to make a difference in that situation from being sketchy to "okay" but still far from confidant.

A 5th wheel itself makes a big difference. My friends 28 foot dual slide 5th wheel, using a slider hitch on his Ram is far more stable than my bumper pull, and I think weights almost another 1k more.

Now going back to "trucks"... does one really make one better than another?
Is the HEMI that much more powerful than an Ecoboost, 5.3, or the 6.0/6.2s? I doubt it

I think as long as you find a truck with the correct tow rating, that is well maintained... suiting your occupant's requirements, you should be fine.

Again that being said, you may find that an extended cab long box 2wd is not only the cheapest, but perhaps best suited for half-ton towing.

If you are ONLY using this vehical for towing... I'd definately suggest looking at a 2500 and up

[leftwing]

Originally posted by HiTempguy1

I'm assuming dude is not a car guy, and will not be doing his own mechanical repairs on the truck which I think is a fair assumption to make. Hell, even though Beyond is full of "car guys", most still pay a mechanic to do the heavy work.



Thats an odd and irrelevant assumption to make. Dude is very much a car guy.

I have not much to add other than: I have an '08 F150 with 80,000km, and I agree that the 4spd tranny would not be great for towing, the 6sp in the 09+ would be much more ideal, I have never towed anything however.

Also my engine has a tick and it really isn't a factor in anything. The spark plug problem with them breaking also isn't really a factor, it's just longer and more tedious to remove them.

Good luck Loweg, and lets go camping!

[loweg]

Originally posted by Redlyne_mr2
Ive got a 2002 Silverado 2500LT crew cab 6.6L diesel on my lot that I can sell to you for that $10K mark. It's been inspected so you're not going in blind and drives really nice.

Send me some details

[ExtraSlow]

Originally posted by r3ccOs
SOAB & Extraslow... I know this will forever be a point of contention amongst a number of us, however I guess its all perspective.

I've heard that the tow rating is not based on a SAE type of universal standard, and may not account for the type of grades we deal with in the Rocky Mountains.
You are correct that up until recently, there was no objective standard, however, SAE J2807 has fixed this. It was released in 2008 I think, but manufacturers were slow to conform. As of 2015 Model Year, I believe all the manufacturers conform to this testing procedure. It DOES account for steep grades.
http://www.caranddriver.com/features/that-dam-towing-test-new-sae-trailering-standards-explained-tech-dept

Interesting to note, that for Ford at least, tow ratings did not go down using this new more rigorous testing procedure. I think it's reasonable to assume the most recent generation of trucks were pretty close to conforming to this test already.

[r3ccOs]

Originally posted by ExtraSlow

You are correct that up until recently, there was no objective standard, however, SAE J2807 has fixed this. It was released in 2008 I think, but manufacturers were slow to conform. As of 2015 Model Year, I believe all the manufacturers conform to this testing procedure. It DOES account for steep grades.
http://www.caranddriver.com/features/that-dam-towing-test-new-sae-trailering-standards-explained-tech-dept

Interesting to note, that for Ford at least, tow ratings did not go down using this new more rigorous testing procedure. I think it's reasonable to assume the most recent generation of trucks were pretty close to conforming to this test already.

I believe Toyota has been using this standard ahead of everyone else...

If the Tundra had LSD or lockers available... I would almost contemplate buying one

[HiTempguy1]

Originally posted by ExtraSlow
hitemp and masked bandit, if you have some solid reliability stats to back up your claims, I'd love to see it. If not, you're as guilty of being fanboys as I am, but at least I'm honest about it.

And I'll third (or fourth) the comment that the extra gearing is a big improvement.

Never said I wasn't a fanboy :) At the end of the day, modern trucks can no longer be shitty, they are all "good".

I am sure the OP will be fine. He is looking at towing on the "edge" of what I consider practical with a half-ton, therefore, I am trying to help him make a wise decision. If he can get an 08+ Ford, I think he should do it. Same with a GM. Iffy on the Dodge's, but I am sure they will be fine as well.

[r3ccOs]

Originally posted by HiTempguy1


Never said I wasn't a fanboy :) At the end of the day, modern trucks can no longer be shitty, they are all "good".

I am sure the OP will be fine. He is looking at towing on the "edge" of what I consider practical with a half-ton, therefore, I am trying to help him make a wise decision. If he can get an 08+ Ford, I think he should do it. Same with a GM. Iffy on the Dodge's, but I am sure they will be fine as well.

from a power perspective, I think the Hemi in the Era may be the most powerful

[corsvette]

I've worked around all the big 3 trucks, we work with a fairly large fleet that sells on average of 100+ trucks per year. That said I think I've seen most of the strengths and weakness of all of them. I also get to hear all the stories on the new trucks as well. Hope this helps, although most has been said already. I'm also very partial to GM truck's but don't label me a 'fanboy' as I've owned one or two from each manufacturer and think they're all great trucks with they're own benefits.

Ford from 04-09 with the 5.4's and cam phasers. Using correct weight oil is golden, they take 5w20. I can't tell you how many times I've seen oil change stickers on 5.4's that say 5w30. I've heard them knock as low as 50,000km, and some with 250,000 that still sound good. For the most part the noise is harmless, even ford says some noise is normal. You have real issues if they sound like a diesel. Exhaust manifolds crack on these engines, that emits a ticking sound, it's usually the right side for some reason. They are a PITA to change. Don't confuse cam phaser noise with a cracked manifold.

The 5.4's also like to eat coil packs, and of course the spark plug issue. Don't even bother trying to DIY a 5.4's plug's, tech's that do the job have special tools for when the old plug breaks off. I've also seen several 5.4's with timing chain/and tensioner issues. These motors are also harder to work on imo.

On a GM you cant beat the 5.3/6.0 V8. They are super easy to work on and tough as nails. Watch out for the vortec Max and any GM 2007 and newer with cylinder deactivation, it's fairly common to have high oil consumption. Good news is the newer (2007 up) have a low oil level warning that probably has save a ton of engines. Anybody who's owned a pre 2007 5.3 never ever had to woory about this as those never used oil. I'd look for a 5.3 with the 6 speed auto, so far the 6 speed has proven very tough. I've experienced first hand some of the GM electrical gremlins, mostly on pre 2007 trucks. None of the problems were hard or expensive to fix though. The 2007-up seem much better in this regard.

Not much to say about Dodge, mostly experienced with the cummins models. I did have a 2005 Ram hemi for a bit. Nice truck, but gobbled fuel like crazy and really never felt that powerful. From 2003-up Dodge had a 5 speed auto, one more gear than GM or Ford had, might help a bit with towing though I can't remember if 'tow/haul' mode locked out fifth gear.

I'd try to find a decent 2007-up GM crew, best bang for the buck imo (though a bit more to buy than a Ford) If you get a crew shortbox just keep in mind you need a special hitch if you go with a fifth wheel. The box is too short so you need an expensive sliding fifth wheel.

[never]

Originally posted by r3ccOs


Again that being said, you may find that an extended cab long box 2wd is not only the cheapest, but perhaps best suited for half-ton towing.

If you are ONLY using this vehical for towing... I'd definately suggest looking at a 2500 and up

I wouldn't recommend 2wd for towing if you ever have to tow in the winter or will be parked on wet grass over the summer.

[SOAB]

at this point, for $10K, I would get any truck that meets your requirements (crewcab is a must with kids that need car seats) and has a factory tow package including the aux trans cooler, heavy duty towing package, etc. A good brake controller is definitely a must. A prodigy P2 or P3 are the most common.

make sure you do the prepurchase inspection, etc. to make sure it is running well and do any maintenance and mods necessary to make it tow worthy.

I have towed my Kodiak 276 BHSL in all types of weather and road conditions (including down 22 and into interior BC) during the camping season and both my trucks have been just fine. I guess it all depends on the driver and how much trailer movement they can take.