Protege Build thread 2015 (Tons of pics!)

[Maxx Mazda]

Well, after having the old Protégé in storage for a few years, I pulled it out his year and finally decided to get back to work on it. For those who missed the previous thread from 2011, look here: http://forums.beyond.ca/showthread.php?threadid=333096

Quick background of the major points, car is a 2002 Protege5, with a forged engine, built head, custom turbo setup, modified suspension, and standalone engine management system by Haltech. I have done all the work on this car myself. I like to think I pay attention to detail, you can decide for yourself. Without further ado, let's dive in!

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/633/9GURCg.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/hl9GURCgj)

The engine was fine, and barely has 3000Km on it since rebuild. CP 8.5:1 forged pistons, Pauter forged rods, balanced, blueprinted, ARP studs throughout, custom coated oil pump with external PRV, built head with Integral stage 3 turbo cams, Supertech 1mm oversized valves, etc. Thought she could use a fresh coat of paint while it was out, so cleaned, scuffed, and sprayed.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/540/T2eggN.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/f0T2eggNj)

626 Valve cover. Had legendboy weld in the fittings for my custom dual can PCV system.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/540/Up5AkO.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/f0Up5AkOj)

Painted up with 3 coats of color and two coats of clear (engine enamel.)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/537/FKZ8jP.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/exFKZ8jPj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/540/zKo9jf.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/f0zKo9jfj)

Had legendboy also weld up a crack in my modified windage tray. Oil return for external PRV can be seen.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/538/nSqFUh.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/eynSqFUhj)

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http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/911/OAsj48.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pbOAsj48j)

After the block was dry, all threaded holes were re-tapped to remove any paint.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/540/TuxyN8.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/f0TuxyN8j)

[Maxx Mazda]

Valve cover lettering sanded and polished.

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Shot of the bottom end. Nothing to see here.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/673/ITA1Y2.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/ipITA1Y2j)

Valve cover dry fit and misc. hardware bolted back up.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/538/8m9qIx.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/ey8m9qIxj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/540/88SZCA.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/f088SZCAj)

[Maxx Mazda]

Wiper stalk replaced with one from a Ford Escape to add intermittent function. (Not that this car ever sees rain anyways...)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/910/xESnBr.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/paxESnBrj)

[Maxx Mazda]

Got some new Tokico HP struts, and had my iON race spec springs powdercoated as they were looking a little dull. Also threw some OSB down on the bench for good measure!

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/909/nBbADJ.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/p9nBbADJj)

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Looking shiny! (Also sweedish I just realized...)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/912/vsR9J9.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pcvsR9J9j)

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Removed the entire rear subframe, had it powdercoated, installed new bushings, and re-assembled. Also had the sway bars and front subframe powdercoated as well. Here the front is seen "dry-fit" back together.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/909/8qo4nM.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/p98qo4nMj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/633/AHTITA.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/hlAHTITAj)

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[Maxx Mazda]

Dropped the gas tank. Drained it, cleaned it, and re-installed. Note that ANYTHING emissions related has been removed for some time.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/540/WMDHab.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/f0WMDHabj)

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http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/538/n2KMMS.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/eyn2KMMSj)

After the tank was re-installed, the entire rear subframe and all suspension components were installed and torqued to spec along with my AWR trailing links.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/905/ok9249.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/p5ok9249j)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/661/w8NCdQ.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/idw8NCdQj)

[Maxx Mazda]

Went to work stripping, rebuilding, and properly painting the rear calipers.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/540/SIhQMw.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/f0SIhQMwj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/538/h60dsk.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/eyh60dskj)

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A better shot of the underside:

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/538/K9aLwB.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/eyK9aLwBj)

Wasn't happy with how I had the brake line brackets before, so fabbed up and welded in some new ones using all new hardware.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/540/YQYo16.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/f0YQYo16j)

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[Maxx Mazda]

Repainted the front Wilwood blocks. I had to hand do the white lettering. :eek: Baked them well to ensure a hard long-lasting coating with the high-temp DupliColor.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/538/8PtFdS.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/ey8PtFdSj)

For a long time, the wiring in this car has always bothered me. I decided to redo it, along with a mild tuck. There is hardly anything factory left in this vehicle anymore. As a testament to my previous work, removing everything I had done was a TOTAL PAIN IN THE ASS I'll spare you the details, but suffice it to say it took a long ass time. To begin, stripped all loom from the wiring, keeping in mind where it needed to run. Pulled the dash, and heater core / fan assembly. Had my shop helper too!

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/633/goiup0.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/hlgoiup0j)

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Stripped everything from the engine bay in preparation for welding and paint.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/673/EBvyFn.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/ipEBvyFnj)

[Maxx Mazda]

With the bay stripped, I was able to remove any standoffs that I wouldn't be using anymore, and weld up any holes that I would no longer be using. Then, the whole bay was prepped, primed, cleaned, and painted by yours truly. I'm happy with how it turned out.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/905/s8QY2d.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/p5s8QY2dj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/905/HL8JLd.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/p5HL8JLdj)

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[Maxx Mazda]

With the bay painted, I could move on to the wiring again. For the headlights (I have a PROPER Philips D2R retrofit) I decided to remount the ballast to the light itself for a much cleaner look.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/537/34QolH.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/ex34QolHj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/538/FWYqzF.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/eyFWYqzFj)

I wanted to make all the wiring "modular" meaning where I needed a connection, I would build an actual connector. Mini-molex type on all interior connections (no weatherproofing required) and Delphi Weatherpak connectors on anything exterior. Here you can see some progress on where I integrated everything into the dash harness (look closely!) Can't see it? Good. That's the idea. Make it look stock.

Also made some progress of the layout on the inside.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/661/QjLiHw.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/idQjLiHwj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/661/vD2Zby.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/idvD2Zbyj)

[J.M.]

good job :thumbsup:

[cam_wmh]

Awesome!

[diamondedge]

That valve cover is porn. Strong porn. This entire thread is basically fisting.

Great job man, looking forward to more!!

[Maxx Mazda]

Decided I wanted to do something "cool" with how I mounted some stuff. I have a complete standalone fuse box for gauges, methanol pump, HID's, you name it. Keeps everything neat and tidy. Wanted to mount it somewhere accesable and that I could show off if need be, along with the Haltech. Decided to fab up a plate where the passenger airbag used to be. Cardboard mock-up.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/661/4KuNr3.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/id4KuNr3j)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/537/jZPLRO.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/exjZPLROj)

Various progress pics of the interior wiring. Had a schematic drawn up of what went where, along with the factory wiring diagram. Mounted the Haltech RA-10 (with the Autometer sticker on it for shits) in the passenger footwell as you can see, and as part of the wire tuck ran everything for the right side of the car out through a grommet I made in the passenger side fender well. These wires were all run one by one, and mocked up with zip ties and tape until I had everything where I wanted it. Words can not describe how time intensive this process can be. Take your time, and do it right the first time.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/633/iHKslc.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/hliHKslcj)

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http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/909/l5cx7I.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/p9l5cx7Ij)

[Maxx Mazda]

When deciding how to finish off the wires, I was debating different styles of loom. Corrugated looks like shit, but is easy to work with. The mesh style is alright, but I've used it before and I'm kind of bored of it to be honest. Decided to do a "RyWire" style heat shrink loom, with labels on the connectors. Did up a quick sample on the Cam and crank sensor plugs.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/537/WwmghD.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/exWwmghDj)

Stealthed my methanol pump install. Notice the rubber grommet I added to the left of the pump. The hose will pass through here and travel up to the intake within the rad support, so you won't see it.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/673/LnEwum.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/ipLnEwumj)

Finished up the wire tuck through the passenger side fender. Used corrugated loom as you won't see it, and this will provide abrasion resistance.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/912/7wvltR.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pc7wvltRj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/537/ve4ifR.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/exve4ifRj)

Horn relocated from grille to fender. It's shit like this that probably nobody will ever notice, but it contributes to the look of a clean bay as a whole. It's all in the details.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/540/1g4wpV.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/f01g4wpVj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/673/PbTQ95.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/ipPbTQ95j)

Got the front calipers assembled. Hand for scale. And yes, they are amazing.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/540/c0ugHz.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/f0c0ugHzj)

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[Maxx Mazda]

Dash was reinstalled and wires ran. Take a second to look at the second pic. While I didn't have any of the wires mounted in their final locations, notice all of the plugs I built so that everything is modular. The entire dash can be unplugged and removed in about 15 minutes. Was this necessary? Absolutely not. I could have easily hardwired everything in permanently. Those damn pins take an ETERNITY to do, and every wire was soldered and heat shrinked on top of that. I don't accept anything less than perfection, so I always do it the best I possibly can. Once all those plugs were connected (I made sure to use different ones so there were no chances of mix up) they were loomed aside with the factory wiring to complete the factory look. Below the gauges in the center stack you can see a plug I built for the turbo timer as a prime example.

I originally wanted to mount the diagnostic port in my cool airbag panel, but there simply wasn't room. So, while the dash was out, I welded a bracket to the dash frame for it, and it's easily accessible behind that trim panel. Why keep the diagnostic port on a vehicle with no stock ECU? I will explain this later. I have a trick up my sleeve. :D

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[Maxx Mazda]

The factory brake lines come out of the ABS controller, go up OVER the brake booster, and down into the distribution block. I wanted to keep ABS for two reasons. The car comes equipped with electronic brake force distribution, which sends max braking power to the wheels with the most grip, and second, with those giant 13.5" front brakes and the Mazda 929 master cylinder, it is unbelievably easy to lock up the brakes without ABS.

As such, I decided to make my own brake lines that went under the brake booster and will be completely hidden once the engine is in place. I began by making mock ups with coat hangar, to make sure nothing would interfere, then I cut, bent, and flared my own lines.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/538/D6jO8t.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/eyD6jO8tj)

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After I had them made and fitted, I had them powdercoated aircraft grey. Because I needed new brackets, I picked some up at Mopac and drilled and tapped the body for the #6 machine screws, and the finished product looks quite slick if I do say so!

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/673/ePWren.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/ipePWrenj)

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[Maxx Mazda]

Mounted the washer fluid bottle (which I use for my methanol) and plugged in its various connectors. Notice again every wire is heat-shrink wrapped. That means each connector had to be de-pinned, wrapped, and re-pinned. No small feat. Again, something that nobody will EVER see, but I know it's there.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/909/ZvW76y.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/p9ZvW76yj)

The alternator harness was also heat-shrinked and loomed nicely. It will clip into brackets behind the engine and won't be seen.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/911/CPzV2k.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pbCPzV2kj)

After countless hours of ptototyping, I FINALLY decided amongst other materials to make my airbag plate out of acrylic. Had to cut it out, drill and tap mounting holes, and even build another plug for the switch and light. Tapping holes in acrylic is NOT fun! Beware cracking!

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/661/pJBloe.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/idpJBloej)

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And, with lots of fucking around, everything mounted. The switch will arm/disarm my anti-lag, the light indicated when methanol is being sprayed by the Haltech, the fuses and relays are easily accessible, and the Haltech date port for tuning is located top left.

I can pop this cover off for car shows / tuning, and for street driving the stock airbag cover snaps into place and nobody is the wiser!

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/912/kQeSum.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pckQeSumj)

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[eglove]

Holy crazy attention to detail. Nice work dude. Loved your old build thread and will continue to follow this one

[Maxx Mazda]

Thanks. I believe with any build it's all in the details.

[relyt92]

Originally posted by eglove
Holy crazy attention to detail. Nice work dude. My thoughts exactly, looking at the time and detail you're putting into this is amazing.

[Maxx Mazda]

I have Integral stage 3 turbo Camshafts. They use the stock (puny) dowels. I decided to upgrade them to the dowels from a big block Chevy that I sourced from Mopac. Removed the stock dowels, had the holes machined out to the proper size, and installed the new ones.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/633/6slvCM.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/hl6slvCMj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/540/VctqXW.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/f0VctqXWj)

Stock puny dowel next to the new and beefy one.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/673/CJcCwk.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/ipCJcCwkj)

New dowel installed, and comparison to stock.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/537/1dH3lq.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/ex1dH3lqj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/537/8Pcox8.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/ex8Pcox8j)

The cam gear needs to be modified to accept the larger dowel.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/661/wufGDF.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/idwufGDFj)

Had my Perrin fuel rail powdercoated, and I machined the pressure regulator mounting surface. The stock blue anodizing looked out of place against the rest of the shit in my engine bay.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/540/dwOwTp.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/f0dwOwTpj)

[Maxx Mazda]

Got the cam gears modified for the thicker cam dowels, and coated.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/673/N1Y7XF.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/ipN1Y7XFj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/911/kxDdcB.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pbkxDdcBj)

Both cams now modified with the big block Chevy dowel pins, all hardware cleaned and laid out. New cam seals installed.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/538/nPqsXp.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/eynPqsXpj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/661/sTs3Xb.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/idsTs3Xbj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/537/pkjPnG.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/expkjPnGj)

Engine timed and ready to rip

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/673/l5qlIi.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/ipl5qlIij)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/540/Kir0KH.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/f0Kir0KHj)

Sorry for the shitty pic, but rebuilt the alternator and had the case powdercoated.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/911/4nuM8c.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pb4nuM8cj)

Engine completed minus a new crank pulley. She looks shiny!

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/540/4mKxEt.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/f04mKxEtj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/912/6tdw2t.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pc6tdw2tj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/540/gCmzEA.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/f0gCmzEAj)

[tomt64]

Looking fresh, great job! Its all in the details :thumbsup:

[Maxx Mazda]

Thanks! That's the way I like to do things.

[ExtraSlow]

Originally posted by diamondedge
That valve cover is porn. Strong porn. This entire thread is basically fisting. I couldn't say it better myself.

[Danny Meehan]

The amount of work put in is incredible

You've done an amazing job!

Respect !

[BerserkerCatSplat]

Are the cam dowels a problem area on those engines?

[Shlade]

Pretty amazing

[Maxx Mazda]

Originally posted by BerserkerCatSplat
Are the cam dowels a problem area on those engines?

Not at all. I just didn't want to chance it.

[01RedDX]

.

[BerserkerCatSplat]

Originally posted by Maxx Mazda


Not at all. I just didn't want to chance it.

Nothing wrong with that!

[Dave P]

Great Build.

You should post up the KDX build to from a few years back as the attention to detail was on the same level.

[Maxx Mazda]

Originally posted by Dave P
Great Build.

You should post up the KDX build to from a few years back as the attention to detail was on the same level.

Haha wow even I completely forgot about that! Are you on TT? I posted my KX125 and TTR rebuilds over there as well.

http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/967096-project-kx-old-school/

http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/962731-project-ttr-buck-twenty-five/

Anyone else who's bored give those links a look.

[Maxx Mazda]

Finally got my wiring harness completed. Words can not describe the level of planning and execution that went into this. Everything was routed, then heat-shrink wrapped and labeled. (Think Ry-Wire style.) Spent about $150 in heat shrink alone, not to mention all the wire, solder, etc. Probably have close to 100 man hours into this harness. All connectors were de-pinned and removed so that I could fit the shrink over the bare wires. Again, insane amounts of work. You kinda have to work backwards, from the end of a wire to the base, because you want your smaller heat shrink to go inside the bigger one, as you progress down the "tree."

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/673/IsXSyj.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/ipIsXSyjj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/540/OFFGpm.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/f0OFFGpmj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/661/uqlchl.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/iduqlchlj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/909/owoRbc.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/p9owoRbcj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/673/ErgjNy.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/ipErgjNyj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/540/JgyPUc.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/f0JgyPUcj)

[relyt92]

Dang, that's all I've got to say about that.

[FixedGear]

What an awesome thread! Great job that car is sweet!

[nykz]

Love build threads like these with so much attention to detail. Mad props to you! Looks awesome can't wait to see more progress :thumbsup:

[Maxx Mazda]

Sorry it's been awhile since the last update. Got the harmonic balancer torqued on and the alternator / water pump belt tightened.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/910/K7SzxP.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/paK7SzxPj)

Didn't like how I had the intercooler brackets mounted to the bumper, so I built some new ones and welded them on. I suck at welding, but they're strong. Cleaned the FMIC as well.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/905/MON40I.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/p5MON40Ij)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/903/vKZuVL.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/p3vKZuVLj)

Now that the wiring harness was complete, I could mount the subframe, new control arms and bushings, and start getting the front end back together.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/910/65gmK6.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pa65gmK6j)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/912/TKanNL.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pcTKanNLj)

[Maxx Mazda]

Decided to get rid of the power steering for better feel, and simplicity. Many people will just "loop the lines" but that is the hack way of doing shit... I actually set out to de-power the rack.

Rack removed:

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/631/llDqVN.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/hjllDqVNj)

Rack disassembled. The piston on the rack needs to be removed or else we're pushing fluid / air which gives resistance.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/912/LXV8EY.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pcLXV8EYj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/910/cgMFI1.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pacgMFI1j)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/910/A8Q4HE.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/paA8Q4HEj)

I searched high and low for metric plugs to fit where the stock lines used to go. Couldn't find any. Decided instead to weld up the stock fittings. Doesn't need to be fancy or airtight, just enough to keep dust out.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/911/hOSrca.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pbhOSrcaj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/910/iIJffQ.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/paiIJffQj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/911/GodDtC.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pbGodDtCj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/910/T3b7Py.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/paT3b7Pyj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/909/sSNZ9x.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/p9sSNZ9xj)

[Maxx Mazda]

The pinion shaft acts like a fancy hydraulic valve, it's actually quite simple in its design. I won't explain that here, but it needs to be welded solid to eliminate slop in the steering once the valve body is removed. Again, I'm no pro welder, but I got good penetration and a strong bond.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/901/AU8rhe.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/p1AU8rhej)

Got the housing cleaned up and painted, ready for assembly.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/901/DdDprK.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/p1DdDprKj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/631/uYijCF.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/hjuYijCFj)

Select the proper grease, and be sure to use lots on the shaft now that there's no steering fluid inside the rack anymore.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/911/dMcSww.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pbdMcSwwj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/631/xBTECT.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/hjxBTECTj)

Completed rack, re-centered and installed back into the car.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/905/yCuBFu.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/p5yCuBFuj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/909/meCJ6i.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/p9meCJ6ij)

[NoPulp]

Wow, great work!
Nicest protégé I've seen

[ExtraSlow]

Love the rack de-powering. Awesome.

[Maxx Mazda]

With literally 3.5 times the stock power level stuffed through the transmission, something was bound to break. This is officially transmission #4. The Protégé trans is extremely fragile for anything over about 200WHP. To combat this, I've done a number of things. Completed a gear swap (3rd, 4th, 5th) from an '89 Mazda 323 GTX Turbo AWD. (Remember those?) They are marginally stronger than stock, and swap right onto the stock shafts. I've also installed a Mazdaspeed limited slip differential (on my 3rd one now) and welded it to the ring gear so the stock press pins won't snap. (A common problem.) There are options available like a fully custom straight cut gearset from PAR engineering and MFactory, and other limited slip differentials such as Quaife or MFactory, but for what those cost, I can afford to have spare trannies kicking around with upgraded Mazda internals.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/901/JrNqkP.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/p1JrNqkPj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/910/6Ux5Z7.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pa6Ux5Z7j)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/912/sk6jWr.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pcsk6jWrj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/911/pRSnLC.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pbpRSnLCj)

The main issue with helical cut gears is their tendency to pull apart under high loads. The stock aluminum transmission case can only take so much before flexing under high horsepower and allowing the shafts to spread, breaking the gears. To combat this, there is available a machined steel reinforcement plate, which does not allow the shafts to spread apart under load and should make for a much more robust transmission.

The stock case needs to be machined to accept this, so I called on the amazing skill of legendboy to do the machine work for me. Pics of the plate and machining:

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/901/sjzSFT.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/p1sjzSFTj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/903/fUOCHn.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/p3fUOCHnj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/912/ZK6Qi2.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pcZK6Qi2j)

[Maxx Mazda]

Years previous, I've used the '88 GTX gears in my transmission rebuilds. In 1989 there was a revision to the design, figured I'll try them out and see if they're any stronger. A pic for comparison:

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/911/aUAnsM.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pbaUAnsMj)

With the machine work done, I could focus on cleaning and painting the cases, as well as disassembly for the primary and secondary shafts.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/633/bCAfeV.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/hlbCAfeVj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/631/2pXUhs.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/hj2pXUhsj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/901/o4hrkb.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/p1o4hrkbj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/631/k3Okdw.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/hjk3Okdwj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/912/PQUL85.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pcPQUL85j)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/910/JloXvP.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/paJloXvPj)

The new gears were installed onto the shafts, clearances set as per the factory service manual. New bearings pressed on, and new races installed into the case.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/901/AzmNe4.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/p1AzmNe4j)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/911/O8nVfh.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pbO8nVfhj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/633/oZb9Kz.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/hloZb9Kzj)

[Maxx Mazda]

Hardware installed into lower case half, and shot of the welded differential. It still functions as a limited slip. It's not welded solid, it's just permanently affixed to the ring gear.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/903/05yQLm.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/p305yQLmj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/908/lgN2fD.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/p8lgN2fDj)

Differential installed, and shafts in place.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/633/weE0YE.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/hlweE0YEj)

Shift mechanisim installed, case halves dry fit and bearing preload set (with shims.) Now ready for final install of upper case half.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/905/V2aif8.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/p5V2aif8j)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/903/XrRiKo.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/p3XrRiKoj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/633/oYowHo.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/hloYowHoj)

Case half installed, and 5th gearset installed. 5th/reverse synchro set shown. Waiting on a security nut (Mazda sent me the wrong one) which should be in tomorrow and I'll be able to put the top cover on.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/901/Fx1VGB.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/p1Fx1VGBj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/912/Iy2t9X.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pcIy2t9Xj)

[ExtraSlow]

This is pure sex. I like the inside of your transmission.

[Maxx Mazda]

Got the security nuts from Mazda today. Installed and torqued. Installed top cover.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/633/lUIlid.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/hllUIlidj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/909/hrHFIv.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/p9hrHFIvj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/907/IZk72u.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/p7IZk72uj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/911/CCzvfF.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pbCCzvfFj)

For the reverse and neutral sensors, I de-pinned them and built the wire loom like I did on the main harness. Bolted on all the misc. mounts, clutch slave cylinder, etc. Here is the finished transmission:

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/909/VVH0nR.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/p9VVH0nRj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/903/SbkJCz.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/p3SbkJCzj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/911/ijxdZ2.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pbijxdZ2j)

[Maxx Mazda]

Wow it's been awhile since the last update. Not that I haven't been working on it, just haven't taken many pictures and posted anything.

Got the intake manifold planed and reassembled with new gaskets. Installed all sensors and catch can port.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/907/HcKmUV.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/p7HcKmUVj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/907/rokAk8.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/p7rokAk8j)

Cleaned and rebuilt the starter:

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/907/ZMlTyT.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/p7ZMlTyTj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/907/fpq36Q.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/p7fpq36Qj)

Clutch and lightweight flywheel cleaned up and ready for installation:

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/911/TXJnYg.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pbTXJnYgj)

This goddamn AWR oil pan... Not known for amazing quality (it would sweat through some of the welds) but unfortunately it's the only deep sump oil pan available for the Mazda FS engine. So, I had Beyond member legendboy touch up some of the seams for me with his TIG, and weld in a couple of bungs for my turbo oil return and oil temperature sensor. Once that was completed, I had the flange planed flat (welding will often cause warping, this is unavoidable) and installed the pan with Permatex Right Stuff silver.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/907/tlSHJx.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/p7tlSHJxj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/633/8mw3fR.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/hl8mw3fRj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/907/ixXUyN.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/p7ixXUyNj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/910/jaZZzM.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pajaZZzMj)

[Maxx Mazda]

With the engine now off the stand, the flywheel could be torqued down and the clutch installed.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/910/DZOIw3.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/paDZOIw3j)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/633/cuyKQV.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/hlcuyKQVj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/911/APoY7u.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pbAPoY7uj)

One last look inside the bellhousing before the transmission is installed.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/633/7BUaTd.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/hl7BUaTdj)

Transmission now installed and torqued down.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/908/6MOL03.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/p86MOL03j)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/907/hC9Klf.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/p7hC9Klfj)

Engine leveler installed and hoisted up ready to go back into the car. Towels to protect nicely painted valve cover.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/908/4QPpS8.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/p84QPpS8j)

[Maxx Mazda]

Finally, after close to three years, the engine finds its way back into the car!

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/910/mfr3cq.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pamfr3cqj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/911/DnxFyL.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pbDnxFyLj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/903/i46NfS.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/p3i46NfSj)

Snazzy rebuilt axles were installed next.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/907/QfYC5B.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/p7QfYC5Bj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/907/XryW7w.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/p7XryW7wj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/905/dF5wfj.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/p5dF5wfjj)

After that, I got onto a bit of a roll bolting shit up and didn't really stop to take many pictures. Not much to mention as most of the work I did was underneath the vehicle anyway.

[Maxx Mazda]

For those not familiar with my oil system, the oil pump has been internally coated to decrease tolerances and ensure maximum pressure is delivered. The internal regulator has been removed, and I am running an external Peterson unit which allows me to run my oil pressure at whatever I choose. With this setup, I've seen 40psi at idle, while still nothing over 100psi at full RPM. Anything higher you risk blowing seals and oil filters.

I used to have the regulator mounted to the firewall, and the oil filter back behind the strut tower. With the power steering and AC deleted, I now have much more room up front so I decided to relocate those things for ease of access.

Deciding to mount the regulator now to the front of the strut tower, I needed to fabricate a bracket out of some aluminum plate.

The plate was cut to size, trimmed, and corners rounded.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/911/z2lcsk.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pbz2lcskj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/911/Qf1OGP.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pbQf1OGPj)

After bending the two 90* angles and drilling the mounting holes, I could test fit the new bracket.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/905/bfKZZo.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/p5bfKZZoj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/633/5Ihy5F.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/hl5Ihy5Fj)

With the bracket finished, it was bead blasted and painted for a stealth look.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/905/Kpa6KD.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/p5Kpa6KDj)

For the filter block (which also features a pressure gauge for easy underhood adjustment and my turbo gets its clean oil directly from here.) I decided to mount it on the forward frame rail to allow easy access for my frequent oil changes.

Again, I fabbed up a bracket from some aluminum in the fame fashion as before, and drilled and tapped the frame rail and filter block for some sturdy M8x1.25mm bolts.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/911/i8beOF.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pbi8beOFj)

The finished product:

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/910/asVBEt.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/paasVBEtj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/910/8cvFuZ.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pa8cvFuZj)

Both components shown. Will need to measure out some new lines, but I have all the required hose end fittings that I'll need.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/908/05KaUc.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/p805KaUcj)

[Redlyne_mr2]

Wow I love this, so many protégés are going to the junk yard, good on you for keeping it going.

[Maxx Mazda]

Sorry it's been awhile since the last update. Had a bad snowboarding accident and ended up breaking my hip and my back.

Ended up buying the requisite fittings, and building lines to finish up the oil system. The oil comes out of the block, into the regulator, the excess pressure is then dumped back into the sump. The regulated oil continues into the remote filter, and from there back up into the block. The turbo pulls clean oil directly from the filter assembly.

I made sure to use proper line brackets and spacers for a truly "factory" look. Notice also the red accents on the lines. Subtle but sweet.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/910/REruFV.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/paREruFVj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/903/imB266.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/p3imB266j)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/633/ad7Bqz.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/hlad7Bqzj)

I had to use the alternator belt tensioning bolt to mount a line bracket, and I ended up breaking it. Mazda wanted $13 for a new one, I decided to make my own and cut threads all the way up a grade 8 metric bolt. Yay.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/911/swGiAV.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pbswGiAVj)

That's all for now. Once my back heals up a bit I'll make some headway.

[Maxx Mazda]

With the oil system completed, I could get to work on bolting up some of the rest of the engine parts. A nice little wire bracket will keep all the wires behind the engine free from chafing, and make it look proper.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/923/zqGgdP.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pnzqGgdPj)

For the intake manifold, I decided to clean it up a little more than I had. I stripped the paint, and ground off a lot of the extra material that was in the way. Once you've taken away the texture of the factory "cast" finish, it'll never look right again. I decided to give it a very light speckling with some dupli-color trunk paint, and finish it with high temp engine enamel. The end result is a manifold that has that factory texture back.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/921/qhqAJL.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/plqhqAJLj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/923/3Ufr2J.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pn3Ufr2Jj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/921/6jctGI.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pl6jctGIj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/924/LNwBYC.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/poLNwBYCj)

With the paint dry, the rest of the manifold accessories could be bolted on. After a new gasket was fitted, the manifold was torqued to the head.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/924/hlcMiP.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pohlcMiPj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/923/Wiamyr.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pnWiamyrj)

[Maxx Mazda]

With the manifold fitted, I could attach the fittings for the boost gauge, and bracket some of the wires so they look neat.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/921/gAnByM.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/plgAnByMj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/923/6thlah.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pn6thlahj)

The polished caps on the catch cans didn't really fit the look of the engine bay anymore, so I decided to brush them. Before (left) and after. With the catch can connected to the AN fitting on the manifold, I could get the hoses looking nice.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/922/zZCTbm.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pmzZCTbmj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/921/X5fupG.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/plX5fupGj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/924/UwlDDv.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/poUwlDDvj)

I turned my attention to the wastegate. Cleaned, polished, and with the 15psi spring. I use the Haltech boost controller for anything higher.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/924/7fA3Kv.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/po7fA3Kvj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/922/Lqhgb1.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pmLqhgb1j)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/922/7yLHR9.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pm7yLHR9j)

[Maxx Mazda]

More misc. wire brackets used to keep everything tidy, and the intake side (non check valve) catch can mounted.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/923/6Puu71.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pn6Puu71j)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/922/kCjPE4.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pmkCjPE4j)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/921/FPywB5.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/plFPywB5j)

Sumbitch... Exhaust studs always snap off on me. Next project is to remove these bastards, and rebuild the turbo. Nothing especially wrong with the turbo, but with the amount of power I'm demanding from this thing, a rebuild wouldn't hurt. It's been sitting in the basement for close to three years.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/921/rDuMWp.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/plrDuMWpj)

Stay tuned for more!

[EK 2.0]

Originally posted by Redlyne_mr2


Wow I love this, so many protégés are going to the junk yard, good on you for keeping it going.


My Protégé Sedan just went to the wreckers haha...

Good on ya for this build!!....

[Maxx Mazda]

Went a little crazy with the P clamps. In my opinion though, it's better to have wires and shit routed nicely away from everything than just being everywhere.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/921/DBF9PC.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/plDBF9PCj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/922/kCjPE4.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pmkCjPE4j)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/921/ed84Ex.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pled84Exj)

Even though you'll never see anything underneath, you don't want wires all over the place. Routed everything neatly and used either P clamps or repurposed Mazda hardware to keep everything in place.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/921/QVjaej.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/plQVjaejj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/923/lA20za.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pnlA20zaj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/922/Eew1gQ.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pmEew1gQj)

Another P clamp for the cam/crank/egt wires keeps everything in place. Be sure to leave enough slack to allow the engine to move slightly.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/924/LBXjPs.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/poLBXjPsj)

Decided to replace the brake booster hose with a silicone one which will last much longer. There is a check valve inside the stock hose which MUST be swapped over to the new hose to prevent the booster from seeing boost. This is important! I grabbed a couple spares at the junkyard and was able to slide it inside the silicone hose using some dish soap. Ensure you have the valve facing the correct direction.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/922/K1Vuyt.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pmK1Vuytj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/923/rMIZ0o.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pnrMIZ0oj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/921/mtugFs.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/plmtugFsj)

[Maxx Mazda]

I needed to address the cooling setup on this car. Nothing wrong with what I had before, I just didn't particularly like it. With the A/C condenser and power steering cooler now gone, I had tons of room in front of the radiator to work with now. I decided to build a fan shroud and mount two pusher fans instead of the pullers I had before. This serves two purposes; it frees up room behind the rad for a bigger turbo, and by building a shroud, makes the cooling system more efficient. Some argue that when fans are mounted on the front of a radiator, enclosing them in a shroud will disrupt some of the natural airflow at speed. Because I've got the fans controlled by the Haltech, I can have them come on whenever I see fit, and I maximized the size of them, so there really isn't much radiator that's covered by the shroud.

To start, I took some measurements of the PWR triple-pass radiator, and drew up a blueprint of what I needed. With material ordered, it was bent into shape to make the shroud.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/921/oYCKBZ.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/ploYCKBZj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/922/fvbELv.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pmfvbELvj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/922/CYMtbh.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pmCYMtbhj)

Debated on welding the shroud to the rad permanently, but I want to be able to remove it for cleaning, etc. So, using weatherstrip around the edges to protect the rad as well as provide an airtight seal, I drilled mounting holes for rivets.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/924/dOAc8C.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/podOAc8Cj)

Fan holes measured and cut out

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/922/sIatiX.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pmsIatiXj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/921/VcuSJU.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/plVcuSJUj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/924/cR7Lu9.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pocR7Lu9j)

Decided to use some chrome acorn nuts (because they look cool) to mount the fans, and riveted the finished shroud to the rad.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/923/VsmCFK.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pnVsmCFKj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/923/EOh0P6.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pnEOh0P6j)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/921/J7ifjC.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/plJ7ifjCj)

[Maxx Mazda]

Built up a 4 pin weatherpak connector and mounted the completed rad into the vehicle. Very pleased with how it turned out.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/921/juezIO.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pljuezIOj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/924/O5Y224.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/poO5Y224j)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/922/2cMfPC.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pm2cMfPCj)

Turbosmart billet fuel rail adapter.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/921/qSqILX.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/plqSqILXj)

[Maxx Mazda]

626 Master cylinder upgrade. The stock protégé MC is 15/16" diameter. With the BBK, an upgrade is in order. The master cylinder found on the Mazda 626 and 929 (V6 models with ABS) is a 1" unit. 1/16" doesn't sound like much, but remember surface area increases exponentially in a circle. Given the math, the stock MC has a surface area of 0.69 square inches. The 1" unit has a surface area of 0.79 square inches. A 15% increase. The master cylinder is a direct bolt in, however new lines will have to be made as they now exit on the drivers side of the MC. This has the added benefit of a more stealth look as well. Stock shown on right, 626 on left. One from an automatic will also work, but will not have the nipple on the reservoir for the clutch master cylinder, so you will need to swap the Protégé one over.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/922/xLl3FI.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pmxLl3FIj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/924/QFBPoV.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/poQFBPoVj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/922/8SMhgY.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pm8SMhgYj)

Bending and flaring the lines was a challenge. They must make an immediate turn to avoid the space where the battery resides.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/922/tzjuLG.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pmtzjuLGj)

With the intake side catch can mounted, I could plumb up new lines. A 120* off the can into a 90* at the valve cover worked great and gave lots of clearance for the intake pipe. Clamped it to the fuel line using a -8 and -6 separator.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/923/nRXs8G.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pnnRXs8Gj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/924/4K6Dlo.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/po4K6Dloj)

[EK 2.0]

Gosh I wish I had your patience....haha...

[NoPulp]

Damn

[asp integra]

Looks great, super clean engine bay!

[Maxx Mazda]

Thanks guys!

[J.M.]

That harness is sick, such a clean build!

[Maxx Mazda]

Sorry it's been awhile since the last update.

Had to re-fab up some intercooler pipes. Didn't like the way they were before. Added in and repositioned some stuff, tacked them all up and they went off to legendboy for finish welding.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/923/SQVWP0.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pnSQVWP0j)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/922/Nvu5WD.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pmNvu5WDj)

With the pipes back and given a fresh coat of gloss black, they were installed.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/921/9ZndjA.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pl9ZndjAj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/922/JEqSVC.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pmJEqSVCj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/922/dPhUlq.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pmdPhUlqj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/924/3QsOiM.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/po3QsOiMj)

Cut down the washer neck, labeled it for meth, and ran the methanol line through the frame where I could and then used P clamps to secure it on the underside of the frame rail for a stealth look.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/922/FW0knm.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pmFW0knmj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/924/M9SwOy.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/poM9SwOyj)

[Maxx Mazda]

Picked up the last remaining new Corksport 80mm Protégé exhaust. I already had the 2.5" P5 one, but wanted to upsize for more boost, so 3.1" will help in that regard. Unfortunately, they never made the 80mm for the P5, so the muffler section will need to be shortened by 4".

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/922/L4AGRE.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pmL4AGREj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/923/rTSdDx.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pnrTSdDxj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/922/vMCVPY.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pmvMCVPYj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/922/3M72eu.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pm3M72euj)

Notice the bullshit restriction where it's choked down to 2.5" at the front of the pipe. I understand WHY they did this (to mate with the stock tiny downpipe) but this just won't do for me... I will be using a stainless V-Band. Bullshit restriction removed:

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/921/JGV9sb.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/plJGV9sbj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/921/CRLBRd.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/plCRLBRdj)

With the exhaust temporarily hung, I could get to work on a new downpipe. Picked up some mild (alum) steel bends to work with, as the pipe will be ceramic coated when complete. Started by welding a 90 to the flange. I can get all 4 allen head bolts on there, but will likely still dimple the pipe slightly.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/921/MeU2UU.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/plMeU2UUj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/924/GUUyB8.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/poGUUyB8j)

[Maxx Mazda]

Now, I want to start by saying that I am a shitty welder. I have an el-cheapo Mig, but it's good enough to tack shit together and I'll have legendboy TIG it once complete. After dicking around with different bends, I decided I didn't like the 45 on there anymore after the 90. Decided to use the other half of the 180, offset about 30* rearward. Will allow lots of clearance for the turbo oil return as well. Welded in a flex pipe, which clears the windage tray bolts by about 1/2" (its TIGHT under there!) and called it a night.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/922/IcO6qO.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pmIcO6qOj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/921/9sLGgK.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pl9sLGgKj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/922/Vgoq3S.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pmVgoq3Sj)

Now I had to decide what to do next to mate up with the CS exhaust... It's not a "straight shot" since I cut off the smaller piece, you can't come straight out of the downpipe and into the space where the midpipe goes without hitting the windage tray or frame crossmember. I fucked around with this for an hour or so, and finally decided on two 30* bends that I cut. It allowed me to move the exit both vertically up, as well as laterally to correct for any side to side position error in the midpipe. I am pleased with how it turned out.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/924/vQFeUt.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/povQFeUtj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/923/giYTgw.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pngiYTgwj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/921/ZWfwBL.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/plZWfwBLj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/921/sw8Tj2.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/plsw8Tj2j)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/921/Z1t60H.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/plZ1t60Hj)

[Maxx Mazda]

With the main downpipe finished, it was time to turn my attention to the wastegate dump tube. No, I am not going to run a screamer pipe. A properly sized exhaust will not gain anything with a screamer pipe, and I hate the noise they make. I'm sorry I didn't take many pictures as I was cutting and welding, but the part where it joins back into the main pipe was a COCK to try and cut properly... I was dealing with about 16 different angles, the rounded edge of the planer came in handy!

Couple shots of the finished piece:

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/922/iSj3gY.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pmiSj3gYj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/923/hOfkMA.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pnhOfkMAj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/923/xKLsDQ.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pnxKLsDQj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/922/I577eS.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pmI577eSj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/924/ZIOfLP.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/poZIOfLPj)

And installed in the car. The turbo setup will need to go in first, THEN the radiator, and finally the downpipe. With the fan shroud now affixed to the rad permanently, it no longer slides straight up.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/924/QpBs2l.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/poQpBs2lj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/922/Hng4PO.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pmHng4POj)

All told, I have about 20-25 hours into that downpipe. It's the first "major" fabrication project I have taken on by myself, I'm pleased with how it turned out. Off to legendboy for finish welding tomorrow, and then I can have it ceramic coated when it's back. That's all for now!

[Deetz]

Just went through this whole build just now. Fantastic job! Can't wat to it completed :thumbsup:

[Maxx Mazda]

Thanks! Moving this weekend but should have it up and running by the end of May!

[ExtraSlow]

That downpipe picture sequence is better than anything that Kanye ever put out. I went through it twice already, and I might go though again more slowly once the wife is asleep and I can have some privacy. Very erotic.

[Maxx Mazda]

Well, after a long ass winter with the car in hibernation, it's time for a long overdue update!

If you remember, the Corksport 80mm exhaust for the Mazdaspeed sedan needed the final muffler section to be modified. Here we can see it compared to the P5 specific unit for comparison:

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/922/3M72eu.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pm3M72euj)

With 4" removed from just in front of the can, here is the alignment with it just resting in place. As you can see, we need to modify the angle at which it meets the pipe. Also notice how the can must be rotated counterclockwise to keep the mount parallel while still keeping the logo perpendicular to the ground.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/923/d3G0VQ.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pnd3G0VQj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/923/54Vp12.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pn54Vp12j)

With the measurements taken, and everything "dry fit" I dropped the system off with legendboy for finish welding. His TIG skills are out of this world! Especially on stainless, looks like it came that way from the factory.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/924/Ev6weo.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/poEv6weoj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/923/xRnARe.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pnxRnARej)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/923/TeA5pL.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pnTeA5pLj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/921/Yw9qCW.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/plYw9qCWj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/923/Sutgc0.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pnSutgc0j)

[Maxx Mazda]

Rather than ruin the muffler by moving the hangar mount, I elected to move the mount on the chassis of the car itself. After taking measurements, the stock mount was removed, the frame ground flush, and re-welded on in the correct place. Some "rocker guard" was applied to ensure that it would never rust, and we have a factory looking mount.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/924/TxpoaC.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/poTxpoaCj)

The finished exhaust installed and tightened down using all new Corksport hardware. I decided to keep a little more space between the muffler tip and the bumper this time, as the original system caused the bumper to melt whenever the anti-lag was used.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/922/PGudwJ.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pmPGudwJj)

A few shots of the finished system, bolted up from front to back. The V-Band flange is amazing. Takes a bit of work to make sure its lined up perfectly, but it will provide an excellent restriction-free path for the exhaust and it looks clean as hell too. Next step is to remove the downpipe and send it and the hotside turbo parts out to be ceramic coated .

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/921/TTTgy3.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/plTTTgy3j)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/923/voFk3h.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pnvoFk3hj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/923/mKSaSg.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pnmKSaSgj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/922/bvT78q.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pmbvT78qj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/923/21XiZR.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pn21XiZRj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/921/ZDk1uj.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/plZDk1ujj)

[toastgremlin]

This is an extremely hardcore, very details-intensive build. I love it.

Anti-lag :drool:

I'm really surprised to see that 323 GTX transmission parts are stronger than anything since those cars are sort of infamous nowadays for eating unobtanium transmission parts.

How deep is your radiator shroud?

I had a buddy build a custom radiator shroud that was right up against the radiator (no dead zone between the rad core and the fans) and it ran extremely hot because it didn't have enough room for the fans to 'reach' all of the core, just in a close radius of the fans themselves.

From the pictures it looks like you should be okay, especially with a pusher fan setup like that.

[Maxx Mazda]

Deep as in how far do the fans sit off of the actual rad? Off the top of my head, they're about 1-1.5" off the rad. There's plenty of room behind the shroud for air to circulate before being pushed through, if that's what you mean.

[Maxx Mazda]

With the exhaust system finished, I could focus my attention on finishing the cooling system. I played around with a number of ideas for weeks before finally deciding on what's pictured. Because I had to flip the thermostat housing upside down to make room for the downpipe, and could no longer use the straight neck thermostat housing that I was running before, my options were limited. Either go up and around by where I have the oil filter mounted, and in front of the downpipe into the radiator, or go THROUGH the downpipe and have a straight shot into the rad. I went with option 2 because after mocking up both, it looks way more sano and inconspicuous, and the hose stays a lot further from the downpipe than it would have in front. At its closest point, there is still 2.5" between the downpipe and the hose, which itself is good for a few hundred degrees. Once the downpipe is ceramic coated, it won't be a problem.

In order to keep the requisite flow for how hot this thing is gonna be running, I had to go with -16AN fittings. Jesus those shits are NOT cheap! After cutting and planning a spare stock water neck, I had Legendboy use his impeccable skills to weld on a fitting, as well as onto my no longer available PWR radiator. Didn't think twice about trusting him with it, he does amazing work. He even turned down the hex-head on the fitting to a round one for a nicer look!

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/923/QomuXj.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pnQomuXjj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/924/aK30hI.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/poaK30hIj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/922/FiE65t.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pmFiE65tj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/923/bk1L6o.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pnbk1L6oj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/923/MKuwJO.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pnMKuwJOj)

[Maxx Mazda]

With the fittings welded up, I could focus on building the line. Since it's so damned expensive, I made sure to measure twice and cut once. Pleased with the results. While it doesn't stand out, that's exactly the point. Looks like it's supposed to be there. As you can see, plenty of clearance at it's closest point. Hand is for scale (banana not available.)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/924/HtNx08.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/poHtNx08j)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/922/xU0SFC.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pmxU0SFCj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/924/aBW340.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/poaBW340j)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/924/mUf2wC.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pomUf2wCj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/923/4jJSSB.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pn4jJSSBj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/922/dx9XMj.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pmdx9XMjj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/922/SBmc5D.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pmSBmc5Dj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/923/oVm3V0.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pnoVm3V0j)

[Maxx Mazda]

As part of the MP3 parts car I snagged, I had a pewter/black Nardi wheel that looked like shit. I cleaned it up, and decided I'd try my hand at dying the leather back to the stock color. Prep is EVERYTHING. I was able to find leather dye at a local craft shop, and the "pewter" color was a perfect match! The only downside, is that wherever you dye the leather, there's no way to keep the stock pewter color on the stitching on the black leather. While it's not 100%, I figured I had nothing to lose and worst case I'd chuck the wheel out, or give it away. I'll keep it for now until I throw a JDM Nardi on it this winter. I just want to drive this thing before the snow flies.

Start by cleaning the wheel, stripping all the oils and sanding down the rough leather:

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/924/ueoRXS.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/poueoRXSj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/922/BFckx3.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pmBFckx3j)

Once the wheel is dyed and properly cured, the leather once again looks rich and soft:

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/922/41SiPe.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pm41SiPej)

Mounted back in the car to showcase the excellent color match. Those are stock colored radio bezels and center cupholders.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/923/X2pFsR.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pnX2pFsRj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/924/UXduC9.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/poUXduC9j)

[Maxx Mazda]

With the cooling system finished, I could send the exhaust out for ceramic coating. First, the manifold was planed flat to remove any warp and ensure a good seal.

http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/924/lw3jRq.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/polw3jRqj)

While the exhaust was out at Top Gun coatings getting a nice coat of titanium ceramic, I turned my attention to the turbo. It received a full rebuild. The turbine shaft was polished to a mirror shine, and the center section was given a shot of ceramic.

http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/923/kCovcL.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pnkCovcLj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/923/ViVpw4.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pnViVpw4j)

http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/923/KHTII2.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pnKHTII2j)

A few days later, I got the parts back from Top Gun. The titanium ceramic looks great, and should help to keep the heat down under the hood without needing to wrap the exhaust.

http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/922/h3aOK7.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pmh3aOK7j)

http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/924/qoaxFK.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/poqoaxFKj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/923/3u6bfq.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pn3u6bfqj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/923/lPZGeX.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pnlPZGeXj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/922/Y0vsyM.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pmY0vsyMj)

[Maxx Mazda]

With the turbine housing back, I could reassemble and clock the turbo with all new gaskets:

http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/923/RW8huw.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pnRW8huwj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/923/mixNVq.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pnmixNVqj)

With what felt like some mad tetris skills, I got all the components in place, mounted up, and torqued to spec.

http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/922/PydIKC.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pmPydIKCj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/922/XzeXtW.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pmXzeXtWj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/924/eFlzlh.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/poeFlzlhj)

The turbo just clears the block. I doubt its possible to go any bigger than this monstrosity!

http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/924/9Bpk4N.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/po9Bpk4Nj)

Some shots of the bottom end

http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/922/URCBqi.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pmURCBqij)

http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/922/VK4up0.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pmVK4up0j)

[TomcoPDR]

Tasty. :drool:

[Maxx Mazda]

As you'll see later, I actually ended up swapping out this 45* fitting on the turbo oil feed for a 90*. But, pics of it installed anyways, along with some other misc. engine accessories fitted.

http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/922/3ArnXi.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pm3ArnXij)

http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/924/Gevn5c.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/poGevn5cj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/922/eYBypI.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pmeYBypIj)

As I got to work on the oil drain line, it's short length combined with how low the turbo sits compared to the drain posed a problem. Obviously, downhill flow was paramount, and while this was the first iteration, I ended up changing it as well later on.

http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/922/nhUSFa.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pmnhUSFaj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/924/AoCwDI.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/poAoCwDIj)

Used a couple brackets to keep the ignition wires neat and tidy and away from the hot exhaust:

http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/924/jeHTqV.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pojeHTqVj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/923/ygXnNu.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pnygXnNuj)

The intake piping was finished off now that the turbo was installed.

http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/923/BJeHgN.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pnBJeHgNj)

[Maxx Mazda]

All vacuum lines were replaced with high temp Turbosmart silicone lines. They are thick-walled and guaranteed not to collapse or balloon under high boost or vacuum conditions.

http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/923/vZqNOG.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pnvZqNOGj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/924/0N07ti.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/po0N07tij)

http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/924/cDKN9V.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pocDKN9Vj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/923/wwjDxt.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pnwwjDxtj)

Next task was to figure out some sort of coolant overflow. I found an aluminum can down at Mopac, but the mounting bracket it came with was super sketchy. Drilled and tapped for some studs, epoxied them in and used some jam nuts for good measure:

http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/922/IGHYA2.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pmIGHYA2j)

With that taken care of, I measured out what I'd need for a bracket, and fabbed one up out of some aluminum stock.

http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/924/yofWgX.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/poyofWgXj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/924/xYpr3T.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/poxYpr3Tj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/923/Njrhrx.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pnNjrhrxj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/924/zHULbU.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pozHULbUj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/924/IcRyuL.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/poIcRyuLj)

With the bracket completed, it mounted into a stock mount on the frame rail:

http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/923/2xsWeb.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pn2xsWebj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/924/KnVn6R.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/poKnVn6Rj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/924/t5qhdh.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pot5qhdhj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/922/rP4Ts7.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pmrP4Ts7j)

[Maxx Mazda]

Only the best fluids for this build. I wasn't sure if I'd have enough of the Ate SuperBlue, so I picked up a can of Wilwood Hi-Temp racing just in case. The SuperBlue has been outlawed in Canada and is impossible to find.

http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/923/eYhOaA.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pneYhOaAj)

I know there is a lot of literature out there on running an oil restrictor with a journal bearing turbo. In my specific application, because i'm taking oil directly off the filter outlet, and it's being regulated externally, I MUST USE ONE. Without it, the turbo ends up seeing upwards of 85-100psi oil pressure. I didn't like the Garrett restrictor I was running before, it was brass, stuck up way too far, and looked like shit. Since I was going to switch the 45* oil feed fitting for a 90* as mentioned earlier, inspiration struck. I decided to mount the restrictor directly INTO the fitting. It will allow me to easily swap it out for various sizes if need be, and it'll be completely hidden. Here is the 1/8" NPT hex plug that I drilled out to match the Garrett restrictor. Held beside the restrictor for comparison.

http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/924/bZsq2k.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pobZsq2kj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/923/r6EmUW.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pnr6EmUWj)

I grabbed a new 90* -4AN to 1/4" NPT fitting, and drilled and tapped the bottom end to accept the restrictor plug:

http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/924/FSGvUL.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/poFSGvULj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/924/RwtrBv.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/poRwtrBvj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/923/PaT9z7.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pnPaT9z7j)

With the plug installed with some Loctite for good measure, it looks great, and yet nobody will ever see it:

http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/923/gErJCv.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pngErJCvj)

[Maxx Mazda]

With the turbo oil feed taken care of, I decided to see what I could do with the drain side. I wasn't totally happy with the first one I came up with, and this build is about every little detail. "Good enough" isn't in my vocabulary.

Rather than the two 90* fittings and the straight drop out of the turbo, I made it a lot more free-flowing by installing a 45* onto the turbo, and going with a 90* and a straight fitting for the line.

http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/922/TmPJYo.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pmTmPJYoj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/922/cJNk16.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pmcJNk16j)

Comparison pic of the old (bottom) vs new (top.) You can see how much better it's going to work.

http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/922/LBZyXR.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pmLBZyXRj)

[never]

Looks good!

[Twin_Cam_Turbo]

Spotted you wheel spinning your way up Country Hills just a short while ago ;)

[Maxx Mazda]

Spotted you wheel spinning your way up Country Hills just a short while ago ;)

That was you?! Haha thanks for the game of tag! Damn thing can’t hook up. That was only 15psi of boost too, it loves the cold air. The tires obviously don’t.

Your tires are sticky as fuck I had to duck out from behind you, I was getting sandblasted.

Edit: your car sounds amazing in that underpass! Borla? My dad had the Corsa Indy’s on his C5 and they sounded close but not as rumbly.

[diamondedge]

Twin_Cam and I were just at Top Gear...finally got to see this beauty rolling. I was in the blue WRX wagon waiting to turn out and then I saw you drive past Maxx.

[Twin_Cam_Turbo]

That was you?! Haha thanks for the game of tag! Damn thing can’t hook up. That was only 15psi of boost too, it loves the cold air. The tires obviously don’t.

Your tires are sticky as fuck I had to duck out from behind you, I was getting sandblasted.

Edit: your car sounds amazing in that underpass! Borla? My dad had the Corsa Indy’s on his C5 and they sounded close but not as rumbly.

Haha yes I wasn’t even really paying attention to behind me and I usually love a little squirt under the overpass but the second I saw the side of your car beside me I knew it was you right away. When you were in front of me I short shifted and fully was expecting you to walk away from me quickly haha. My tires are 140TW and they pick up a ton of road junk that’s for sure, didn’t know it was that bad behind me though haha.

I have SLP long tubes with a B&B PRT exhaust, it’s fairly liveable cruising but quite loud when you are on it.

[Maxx Mazda]

Twin_Cam and I were just at Top Gear...finally got to see this beauty rolling. I was in the blue WRX wagon waiting to turn out and then I saw you drive past Maxx.

I slowed down to have a better look at your car! Ir is clean!!

- - - Updated - - -


Haha yes I wasn’t even really paying attention to behind me and I usually love a little squirt under the overpass but the second I saw the side of your car beside me I knew it was you right away. When you were in front of me I short shifted and fully was expecting you to walk away from me quickly haha. My tires are 140TW and they pick up a ton of road junk that’s for sure, didn’t know it was that bad behind me though haha.

I have SLP long tubes with a B&B PRT exhaust, it’s fairly liveable cruising but quite loud when you are on it.

I noticed with my new downpipe and full 3.1” it’s loud but not overly so. Did you happen to hear what it sounded like? I think you had your windows up most of the time. I get a bit of drone at super low RPM but above that it just wails. I’m gonna have so many tickets this year haha

I don’t usually mess around on the street, but it’s too hard to resist in this thing. So much fun.