Plumbing Help - outdoor hose tap

[sabad66]

Not sure why, but the entire tap popped off when I was using my hose. Quickly ran inside to turn it off from the utility room, but now i don't have a hose until i get this fixed.

I went to home depot and bought a shark bite tap, but when i went to put it in, i accidentally pushed the pipe into my house. So i grabbed some plyers and started pulling it back out, and in the process i mutilated the tip of the copper pipe :(

Here's a pic of what it looks like now:
http://i.imgur.com/bqox2Qc.jpg

You can see it's not a perfect circle any more, rough edges, and even a slit on the bottom. Completely messed up.

So now the shark bite tap doesn't fit in nicely.

What do i need to do to fix this? Do i need to cut off a few inches and re-solder some new pipe on so that i can fit the shark bite tap on? is there some kind of small piece i can buy that will connect over top of the pipe after i cut the tip off, and then it will taper back down to the 1/2" size?

thanks in advance

[speedog]

Sweat in a new piece of copper and you're good to go.

[StreetRacerX]

How much more pipe can you pull out without straining it inside? You can cut the rough end of the copper pipe off with tubing cutters if you can pull it out a few more inches then install your sharkbite hose bib.

If there is not enough play and you cannot pull anymore pipe through the the hole in the wall you will have to cut out the ceiling space where the pipe is before it passes through your outside wall and replace with longer piece or extend it with some copper and a sharkbite coupling(assuming you can't solder).

[sabad66]

Originally posted by speedog
Sweat in a new piece of copper and you're good to go.
i'm an absolute n00b when it comes to plumbing so i don't really knwo what 'sweat in' means. But i'll google it.


Originally posted by StreetRacerX
How much more pipe can you pull out without straining it inside? You can cut the rough end of the copper pipe off with tubing cutters if you can pull it out a few more inches then install your sharkbite hose bib.

If there is not enough play and you cannot pull anymore pipe through the the hole in the wall you will have to cut out the ceiling space where the pipe is before it passes through your outside wall and replace with longer piece or extend it with some copper and a sharkbite coupling(assuming you can't solder).

I could cut an inch or so of the tip off, but as you might be able to tell from the pic, there's a lot of excess solder on the outside and it blocks me from fully inserting into the shark bite bib. So i would need to clean off the outside somehow. Can i sand it off with a bit of sand paper by hand? or do i need to torch it to melt the solder off?

[Darell_n]

Sharkbites need a smooth unmarked pipe to not leak. Best bet is to chop it off inside the house then stub out a new piece of copper and install a new outdoor faucet.

[speedog]

Originally posted by Darell_n
Sharkbites need a smooth unmarked pipe to not leak. Best bet is to chop it off inside the house then stub out a new piece of copper and install a new outdoor faucet.

Might as well put in a frost free tap if one is going to this amount of trouble.

[sabad66]

Originally posted by Darell_n
Sharkbites need a smooth unmarked pipe to not leak. Best bet is to chop it off inside the house then stub out a new piece of copper and install a new outdoor faucet.
I can't do that unless I destroy my ceiling in my basement. Really don't want to do that right now.

I was hoping To solder on a small 3" extension to this ugly part that will give me the smooth unmarked piece for the shark bite.

Can you solder onto messed up ends like this?

[Darell_n]

Originally posted by sabad66

I can't do that unless I destroy my ceiling in my basement. Really don't want to do that right now.

I was hoping To solder on a small 3" extension to this ugly part that will give me the smooth unmarked piece for the shark bite.

Can you solder onto messed up ends like this?

Yes you can.

Heat up the stub and wipe off as much solder as you can. File / sand off any remaining lumps of solder and hopefully you can work a new coupling onto the stub to add more pipe. If you can't get it on, heat up the coupling red hot while holding it with needle nose pliers, then let it cool off slowly by setting it down on a sidewalk. Once its cool it will be annealed and will be soft enough to slide over the misshaped stub. Don't forget to flux the stub first before adding the coupling and soldering this coupling by itself will make the job easier before adding the new stub and valve onto it. Good luck.

Also, using silver bearing solder will make the connection much stronger and look better too. Wipe off all the flux when you are done so I doesn't corrode the copper when you push it back into the house.

[StreetRacerX]

If your going to clean off the solder make sure you don't melt your vinyl siding, can you pull any more of the copper pipe out?

[ExtraSlow]

If the inside of this is accessible in your basement, put in a frost free tap, (Aka Silcock) and it will stick into your house a good 8" or so, meaning you'll just need to cut off the copper on the inside, and won't have to put in a short piece at all.

I installed a new silcock recently, although my house is plumbed with PEX, so it's a different fitting.

[Seth1968]

Originally posted by sabad66
i accidentally pushed the pipe into my house.

That outside pipe should have been secured with a flange. That's your first issue to address.

[The_Penguin]

I had one freeze and split, had to cut a hole in the ceiling of a basement bedroom to replace it.
Used a white plastic access panel afterward, doesn't look too bad really.

[sabad66]

Update:
I ended up having a good 5" of play/extra pipe so there was plenty of room to solder on the new valve after cutting off the ugly end.

I would have loved to put in a new frost-free tap but again it runs through my basement ceiling which is drywalled, so would have been a big pain to re-do all of that.

thanks all for the suggestions.

[sabad66]

Originally posted by Seth1968


That outside pipe should have been secured with a flange. That's your first issue to address.
yeah definitely would have helped if there was a flange. Whoever did this before wasn't thinking about the poor soul who might have to work on it later on down the road.

Anyways it's all good now and i even got a ball valve now vs the standard one so i'm happy.