New home build suggestions/recommendations

[cream]

Took the plunge into a life of debt and gonna build me a home.

Any suggestions from you homeowners out there to include in a house before everything is decided?

So far, I'm floating around the idea of:
Wall oven + stove top vs regular 2in1 unit
Pasta pot filler
240v to garage
Gfci behind toilet for those fancy Japanese seats :rofl:
Cat6
Ceiling speakers
Sidelight to front door
Liftmaster 8500 garage opener (anyone here have one?)
Also, has anyone raised and extended their garage door tracks to allow space for a car lift? Ceiling should be 14' high but garage rails will be at standard high for 7' door.


There's probably way more but throw around some ideas if you can and this might become a good resource in the future!

My other question is, how would you guys set up a 18' by 12' for a TV room? I want a large sectional that can fit a good chunk of ppl (8?) and will probably upgrade carpet so it can seat any excess. But the 12' seems to restrict what i can fit since I'm aiming for 10' couch so still have 2' to walk behind the couch. Was gonna put TV on 12' wall and couch about 8-10ft away. Maybe a desk behind the couch. But now I'm considering tv in the corner and long a long L sofa looking towards it. Thoughts?

[redblack]

I have a separate wall oven and cooktop that decided to shit the bed a few months apart. A new electric cooktop cost me $900 and convection wall oven was $1800. Those 2 in one ranges are ~$1000 or less.

[thinmyster]

A couple threads you can read through while you are waiting for replies

http://forums.beyond.ca/st/378054/must-have-new-home-options/

http://forums.beyond.ca/st/320512/things-you-wish-you-had-in-your-home-/

[?????]

Where are you building?

I wanted a pot filler but one of those things where it came down to budget and some other upgrades it had to go.

[Rarasaurus]

Plugs on both sides of the vanity so you and wife have access if it is one shared length.

Plugs in pantry in the event you want to run some appliances in there like a toaster.

Wine fridge or beer fridge in Kitchen for extra drink space.

Move electrical panel to be in the same area as utility room.(not always the case).

9 Ft on all floors.

Irrigation line run under driveway for future or full system install.

Heated tile floors.

[403ep3]

So much of these extras add up :confused:

Might want to look at your budget before you get very disappointed with what you can't get lol

I love our built in appliances, but they were definitely pricey.

A few things I added to my new house:
- 9ft (ish) basement height
- removed a bunch of the drywall and replaced with railing (depending on your layout)
- extra pot lights everywhere..
- add lots of extra windows and increase the sizes
- added a couple 8ft doors on the main floor
- added sliding/pocket doors instead of the regular ones
- upgraded my carpet to one that feels like you're stepping on puppy hair
- upgrade your flooring!

I ended up skipping on in ceiling speakers as technology is always advancing and I have a good Sonos setup.
Pot filler would have been nice, but $$$.

[R!zz0]

Hot and cold faucet in the garage (if you want)
Drain in the garage (if you want)

For ceiling speakers, you have anyone in mind or are you going with what they're telling you to go with?

[?????]

Originally posted by 403ep3
So much of these extras add up :confused:

Might want to look at your budget before you get very disappointed with what you can't get lol

- removed a bunch of the drywall and replaced with railing (depending on your layout)

I ended up skipping on in ceiling speakers as technology is always advancing and I have a good Sonos setup.

Adds up QUICK!
Railings are super pricey compared to sticking with the stub walls.
Most builders are telling me to also stay away from ceiling speakers for the same reason and most people are going the soundbar route. They only have them in the showhomes to play music.

For those that ran gas lines to the garage and rear deck/patio....what size did you go with for both the main line and the tie in?

What would be the benefits for a 240 outlet in your garage? Welder?

[Mitsu3000gt]

Drain in the garage :thumbsup:

240v in garage AND your home theater room depending on how into that you are, just to keep options open. Power outlet on ceiling as well as CAT6/HDMI on ceiling if you have a home theater/media room.

Pre-wire and behind-wall cable channels for media areas

Top floor laundry.

Solid doors with quality hardware

Vacuum ports on the floor in the kitchen you can sweep stuff into :bigpimp:

[RealJimmyJames]

Originally posted by Rarasaurus
Plugs in pantry in the event you want to run some appliances in there like a toaster.
Is this legal? I thought you weren't allowed to have any plugs in a "closet" or pantry?

[Rarasaurus]

I have seen it done but I think you may have to upgrade the breaker or have it dedicated.

[benyl]

Get an 8ft garage door and go as wide as you can.

I can put my bike on my NSR rack and pull into the garage without removing my bike (or risk breaking my bike).

Look at the other threads. There is a tonne of info.

[kenny]

Focus on things that are next to impossible or really costly to do afterwards and only if you actually want it yourself. Some ideas from my last build:

- Taller foundation (higher ceiling height in basement)
- wider and taller front door
- bigger windows, extra windows
- add skylights to washrooms/hallways
- garage: water lines (hot and cold), gas line, floor drain, 240v, widen if there is room on your lot
- zoned vent ducts
- pot filler
- hot water recirculation line
- central vac kick plates in kitchens and washrooms
- in-floor heating for washrooms
- outlet in the eaves for christmas lights
- low voltage wiring (cat6 in every bedroom at minimum, ideally to every room in house, ceiling wifi, exterior lines for ip cameras if you plan on going this route)
- wood backing in between studs for tv mounting locations (you can probably go in and do this yourself during the build with scrap wood. The guy framing my house just did it for me as I visited a lot during the build)

[KPHMPH]

The number one thing I want when I build a house ( and possibly the best thing ) is 4 to 5 foot wide stairs..... It makes such a difference....

[403ep3]

Originally posted by KPHMPH
The number one thing I want when I build a house ( and possibly the best thing ) is 4 to 5 foot wide stairs..... It makes such a difference....

This is huge, especially for moving things up and down the stairs.. less scuffs and nicks.

My layout included really wide stairs

[C_Dave45]

Heated tile floor and line drain!!!!
That's all.
:clap:

[jeffh]

Yes you can have a outlet in the pantry, as long is there isn't any shelving above it.

Exterior potlights in the eaves look really nice in the evening, and are about the same price as exterior sconces.

[suntan]

Window in mud room.

I think when people say "eaves" they're meaning soffit.

[cream]

Haha, wow! Lots of responses! Thanks everyone.

I'm building in Nolan Hill - Zero lot

Yeah, I know it'll depend on budget for sure. I definitely focused on main structural changes first. I have most of the prices for stuff you guys mentioned but I'm at a point where I gotta cut stuff out and really narrow what I want.

- Hot/cold water to garage - few hundred - what's the benefit here? I originally had it but took it out. Haven't used it much @ my parents place

- widened the garage but could only get to 21' by 22' :(

- windows - added a lot.. the missus thinks it'll make our house too cold

- carpet (the softest one costs $7.39/sqrt) thats ~7000 for the top floor alone. Hmmmmmm might try stick around the 4$ range

I definitely never looked into a floor drain. Hmm..


Low voltage stuff will be handled by SmartSpace - appointment is this Thursday.

Dang, I should've posted this waaay sooner. Haha, keep it coming :clap:

[suntan]

Do not rough in plumbing the basement.

Upgrade bathroom fans to quietest available.

Bathroom fan timers.

Rough in for ceiling fans.

Check opening for fridge, you want to make sure you can put a monster in there.

Upgrade from base windows. You don't have to go triple pane though these days (unless for noise).

Exterior trim around all windows (usually only the front windows get it).

Solid core interior doors.

Handles, not knobs.

Box ceilings, failing that flat ceilings.

Rounded corners.

Three way switch for mud room light.

Garburator.

Make sure kitchen island has power.

High output fireplace (watch out for minimum clearance between fireplace and mantle though).

Hardie plank siding.

[TYMSMNY]

Gas, Hot, Cold lines to garage. With sink/tub. If you ever need to wash anything in the garage. especially dirty tools or hands and don't want it in the house.

Liftmaster 8500. have 3 installed, all of them have been issue free and quiet (compared to other style)

Carpet on stairs. I have hardwood and miss the softness of carpet going up and down.

Water lines for irrigation... or irrigation from the get go (might as well if you're running lines).

Water softener

Water filter (kinetico or equivalent) for drinking in kitchen.

[suntan]

Put faucets in furnace room.

[C_Dave45]

Originally posted by suntan
Do not rough in plumbing the basement.


Make sure kitchen island has power.


DON'T rough in plumbing?? Why?

It's code for islands to have power. Can't have them without.

The rest of the suggestions should put OP's build at about $350/sq ft. :bigpimp: $$$!!

[suntan]

These days the rough in is never put in properly. Like they give a fuck if the toilet drain is one inch off.

[C_Dave45]

Originally posted by suntan
These days the rough in is never put in properly. Like they give a fuck if the toilet drain is one inch off.
You can spec your layout. :dunno:
Paying a plumber $100/ft to bust up your floor after a build is just throwing away cash that will add thousands onto your future bathroom project.

[suntan]

In my house, the previous owners put the rough in in a really weird spot that made sense, if I wanted a bathroom with a corner spa tub.

It doesn't cost thousands to rough in a basement afterwards.

[403ep3]

Originally posted by cream
Haha, wow! Lots of responses! Thanks everyone.

I'm building in Nolan Hill - Zero lot

Yeah, I know it'll depend on budget for sure. I definitely focused on main structural changes first. I have most of the prices for stuff you guys mentioned but I'm at a point where I gotta cut stuff out and really narrow what I want.

- Hot/cold water to garage - few hundred - what's the benefit here? I originally had it but took it out. Haven't used it much @ my parents place

- widened the garage but could only get to 21' by 22' :(

- windows - added a lot.. the missus thinks it'll make our house too cold

- carpet (the softest one costs $7.39/sqrt) thats ~7000 for the top floor alone. Hmmmmmm might try stick around the 4$ range

I definitely never looked into a floor drain. Hmm..


Low voltage stuff will be handled by SmartSpace - appointment is this Thursday.

Dang, I should've posted this waaay sooner. Haha, keep it coming :clap:

Who'd you end up going with? Welcome to Nolan! p.s. I will soon be in my house 3 months and had a 3rd party inspection done. Not sure if possible, but see if you can get in a 3rd party inspection for insulation and other stuff before you get the house..

[C_Dave45]

Originally posted by suntan
In my house, the previous owners put the rough in in a really weird spot that made sense, if I wanted a bathroom with a corner spa tub.

It doesn't cost thousands to rough in a basement afterwards.
Yes and that was a previous owner. The OP is building new...not some previous owner. He can easily spec how he wants it laid out and it won't cost one extra dime from his builder.
If you have a basement with NO toilet stack roughed in anywhere, it's $100 per lineal foot just to put the trench in. (Let's hope he doesnt have hydronic heating in his slab) Now have him supply and run new pex through already insulated walls, re-poly, drill new holes in every stud, run new vents, new 2" drains, again through studs and insulation.....you're looking at AT LEAST a couple of days of labour plus material.
But hey.....all worth it for the couple hundred dollars credit his builder will give him to not rough-in.
:rolleyes:

[88CRX]

You guys are crazy asking the builder to upgrade some of that stuff. Change it out after you take possession for a fraction of the cost!

Like Kenny said start with stuff you cannot change after the fact and go from there.

- Structural items (ceiling heights, garage size)
- Windows (amount and size)
- Kitchen millwork
- Wall layout changes
- Skylights

I feel like carpet styles/colors go out of style so often we went with the builder spec carpet assuming we'd replace in 6-10 years time anyways.

[?????]

For those that ran gas lines to the garage and rear deck/patio....what size did you go with for both the main line and the tie in? 1/2"? 3/4"?


How are the newer skylights? In terms of durability and leaking.

[kenny]

Originally posted by cream
Yeah, I know it'll depend on budget for sure. I definitely focused on main structural changes first. I have most of the prices for stuff you guys mentioned but I'm at a point where I gotta cut stuff out and really narrow what I want.

- Hot/cold water to garage - few hundred - what's the benefit here? I originally had it but took it out. Haven't used it much @ my parents place


I needed hot in my garage as I installed a mop basin in the corner of my garage to wash my dogs. If you do any work on your vehicles or yard work, it's great to be able to wash up with warm water. Definitely a "nice to have" but for a few hundred bucks its a cheap upgrade. This can always be added after the fact fairly easily. I'd focus on stuff you can't do after the fact, even if it means skipping out on stuff you do want (but can be done after).

With that said, don't go crazy you will move far sooner than you think. :rofl:

[OU812]

Originally posted by kenny

- zoned vent ducts


This!!!

[jeffh]

Yes, pardon me, I meant pot lights in the soffits, not the eaves. And to further what dave was saying. Get the plumbing drains roughed-in in the basement. Having to chip out a small section where the toilet and shower go, to relocate a few inches, is worth the initial cost. This is very minor compared to a full rough-in after the fact. Also think of roughing in a sink drain for a basement bar sink.

I think they usually run 3/4" gas to the bbq and reduce if need be after the valve. 3/4 should be adequate for the garage as well.

[R!zz0]

Do not upgrade on the lights, but do get pots lights.

[guessboi]

^ +1 - If you have the option - buy all your lighting fixtures personally. My builder let me do this and they will do the installation for me. Saved a ton compared to using their vendor.

[speedog]

A second garage door switch right by the garage door, I put one in ours 20 years ago and it's so convenient to walk out of the garage and hit that switch as opposed to hitting a switch at the front of the garage and sprinting towards the now closing garage door while being mindful to jump over the beam.

[benyl]

Originally posted by cream
Haha, wow! Lots of responses! Thanks everyone.

I'm building in Nolan Hill - Zero lot

Yeah, I know it'll depend on budget for sure. I definitely focused on main structural changes first. I have most of the prices for stuff you guys mentioned but I'm at a point where I gotta cut stuff out and really narrow what I want.

- Hot/cold water to garage - few hundred - what's the benefit here? I originally had it but took it out. Haven't used it much @ my parents place

- widened the garage but could only get to 21' by 22' :(

- windows - added a lot.. the missus thinks it'll make our house too cold

- carpet (the softest one costs $7.39/sqrt) thats ~7000 for the top floor alone. Hmmmmmm might try stick around the 4$ range

I definitely never looked into a floor drain. Hmm..


Hot cold with a sink in the garage is great for washing your hands before you go back in the house. Who cares if the sink in the garage is dirty.

I hope you don't own a truck, cause 22' is hella narrow.

Floor drain is a must, especially if you heat your garage.

If you have kids, put in a hot tap to the back of the house. Filling the kiddie pool with hot water is :bigpimp:

Put a hose bib on your deck. Spraying it off is so easy.

Widen your eaves. Makes your house look better. Standard is usually 1ft to 1.5ft depending on the architectural controls. Go to 2' or more.

[roopi]

When you said irrigation line under the driveway you are better off having them just put conduit under the driveway then run the line later.

[Darkane]

As mentioned earlier make sure the panel in the basement is in the same zone as the mechanicals. Mine is across the basement. Like WTF jayman.

[benyl]

Downspouts with a conduit under the side walk.

[jeffh]

Darkane, apparently the issue of the electrical panel on the opposite side as your gas appliances is more to do with the developer. Buddy of mine was saying this happened alot in a Hopewell community he was surveying for. The developer had the utlities roughed in on the opposite sides occaisionally, and the builder wasnt going to run the lines across the basement for whatever reason(ie cost).

[Darkane]

Originally posted by jeffh
Darkane, apparently the issue of the electrical panel on the opposite side as your gas appliances is more to do with the developer. Buddy of mine was saying this happened alot in a Hopewell community he was surveying for. The developer had the utlities roughed in on the opposite sides occaisionally, and the builder wasnt going to run the lines across the basement for whatever reason(ie cost).

Interesting. I figured it was a cost thing for sure.

The shitty thing is when I develop the space I'll have to have a cubby just for the panel, right in the living space.

[suntan]

Originally posted by C_Dave45

Yes and that was a previous owner. The OP is building new...not some previous owner. He can easily spec how he wants it laid out and it won't cost one extra dime from his builder.
If you have a basement with NO toilet stack roughed in anywhere, it's $100 per lineal foot just to put the trench in. (Let's hope he doesnt have hydronic heating in his slab) Now have him supply and run new pex through already insulated walls, re-poly, drill new holes in every stud, run new vents, new 2" drains, again through studs and insulation.....you're looking at AT LEAST a couple of days of labour plus material.
But hey.....all worth it for the couple hundred dollars credit his builder will give him to not rough-in.
:rolleyes: WTF? Why would things be insulated? Undeveloped basement?

$100/lineal foot to trench, wtf? It cost me $400 to redo the entire rough-in, and holy crap it was moved. FAR.

You understand that you can spec all you want, you'd better bring a 2X4 and make absolutely certain they didn't fuck up the placement.

And pex for rough-ins?

[jwslam]

Originally posted by benyl
Downspouts with a conduit under the side walk.
:love:
Mine drops off close to the driveway, and the grass isn't able to absorb it all. With the concrete sinking a bit, I get a pool of ice with every thaw-freeze :banghead:

I agree that a tub in the garage or laundry room is essential... having to wash oven racks in the bath tub is ridiculous!

[?????]

Seems like a few of you guys have a garage drain.

Where would be the best spot for it? Smack in the middle? Or towards the front since that is where it should slop.

[cream]

Originally posted by 403ep3


Who'd you end up going with? Welcome to Nolan! p.s. I will soon be in my house 3 months and had a 3rd party inspection done. Not sure if possible, but see if you can get in a 3rd party inspection for insulation and other stuff before you get the house..

Ended up going with Trico.

Got some major drama going on at the moment where they've begun drafting my build that hadn't been properly signed off on.. Now they want to charge me $250/item that was initially discussed from day one but didn't make it onto his salesman's final sketch. 2 sides to this story and I'm partially at fault, but that's beyond this thread :(

Did anyone here pay to upgrade efficiency standards of their home? I initially looked into it, so I could qualify for the CMHC rebate but it wasn't that cost effective. $2.5-3k to upgrade, minus 1600 cmhc rebate (based on how much you borrow. More beneficial if you go 5%) would have still taken decades to pay off.

[jeffh]

My builder pushed me away from upgrading to triple pane windows and low flow toilets as they were more problematic and not worth added cost. My old builder had triple panes and at sale time, i had to fix a couple of them(7yr old).

I know some builders may not like to do garage drains for the plumbing and concrete work involved. If you could tho, I'd push for a trench drain along the front edge of the garage, just inside the door. Or as a second option have the small round drain in center at the front, and hopefully the concrete finishers are able slope it properly to it.

What kind of efficiency upgrades were you considering?

[jwslam]

Originally posted by ?????
Seems like a few of you guys have a garage drain.

Where would be the best spot for it? Smack in the middle? Or towards the front since that is where it should slop.
If I had one I'd go with trench down both sides?

[roopi]

Originally posted by ?????
Seems like a few of you guys have a garage drain.

Where would be the best spot for it? Smack in the middle? Or towards the front since that is where it should slop.

Mine is in the center and I've had no issues with it. I didnt want to pay the extra for the trench drain across. I didn't see the added value in it.

[?????]

Originally posted by jeffh
My builder pushed me away from upgrading to triple pane windows and low flow toilets as they were more problematic and not worth added cost. My old builder had triple panes and at sale time, i had to fix a couple of them(7yr old).

I know some builders may not like to do garage drains for the plumbing and concrete work involved. If you could tho, I'd push for a trench drain along the front edge of the garage, just inside the door. Or as a second option have the small round drain in center at the front, and hopefully the concrete finishers are able slope it properly to it.

What kind of efficiency upgrades were you considering?


I think triple pane is part of the new building code.

[Kloubek]

Originally posted by C_Dave45
But hey.....all worth it for the couple hundred dollars credit his builder will give him to not rough-in.


Yeah, I completely agree with you. For the house we are building, I completely drew up the plans for our basement in advance so they put everything (hopefully) right where we wanted it.


Originally posted by benyl
Downspouts with a conduit under the side walk.

Absolutely! We added a walkup to the rear of our house, and they did nothing with the downspout so the dirt directly at the top of the stairs was always a mud pit.


Originally posted by speedog
A second garage door switch right by the garage door

...or better yet, get a keyless entry pad. So you can get IN if required as well. Pretty sure it is easy enough to add this aftermarket.

And yes, I COMPLETELY agree that it is better to upgrade after the fact if you can. Far cheaper. I was quoted an addional $60 per outlet if I wanted to change it to a power+USB. Are these super expensive or something? $75 to add a timer to the bathroom fans. Yet, they cost under $10 at any hardware store. No thanks.

Consider what you can easily live with, even if it is not ideal.

For example: In our house, the stone on the fireplace would have been over $2000. I can do it myself for 1/3 of that, so we left it drywall. I wanted barn doors to the den, but it would have also been thousands. Getting a buddy to make them for a few hundred and will install myself.

Even though it is expensive, I would reconsider not getting a railing. It opens up the place, and really adds to it. (And it isn't something you can easily do later).

[sputnik]

Originally posted by Kloubek
I was quoted an addional $60 per outlet if I wanted to change it to a power+USB. Are these super expensive or something?

They are $30/each at Home Depot.

[88CRX]

Can anyone thats built recently chime in on what they paid for the following upgrades? Any perspective on house style, builder and area would be appreciated!

- Garage floor drain
- High lift o/h door track and/or sidemount opener
- Added/widened garage space (like a 2' widening)
- Lot selection upgrade (what was is over a standard lot and why was it more?)
- 9' basement
- Added skylights

Thanks!

[gwill]

a floor drain should be inexpensive overall. I helped a few buyers with floor drains for around $700(drain in middle of garage with simple slope inwards) Adding width to the garage was around 3500.

Lot prices vary so much between communities that its hard to judge why they are priced certain ways. Corner lot vs bigger yard vs view vs walkway.... or prices vary based off what they paid for the land at that time.

If you want comparables call a show home and ask for what they charge. I hate builders who refuse to give prices until you hit their design center.

[kenny]

$527 - Garage floor drain
$19 / linear foot - 9' basement
$5628 for 2' x 34.5' garage widening
$1340 for 4' x 4' skylight

Typical inflated builder upgrade costs but couldn't do those after the fact so had to suck it up. I wish went more than 2' wider for garage now, but meh... next house!

[gwill]

Those seem very reasonable imo. The width of garage varies from builder to builder due to their spec as well as architectural controls.

Sky lights are never a good idea so you didnt miss out there.

[Perfect Dark]

I'm looking to see what you guys think of a deal I negotiated with a builder. I thought it was pretty reasonable but I've only ever purchased used so I don't know the new build market well at all. This is in Airdrie btw, I know that plays a pretty big factor price-wise.

Lot is 48'x148' (pie lot, tapers to 32' in the back)
2800 sq ft house
9' ceilings on all floors
23'x34' attached garage
4 BR upstairs w/ two bonus rooms and 3 baths (en suite + 2 full baths)
Laminate throughout the main floor, carpet upstairs
Wrought iron railings
Expanded mud room and walk through pantry by 2' in width

That's the gist of it, the house already had most of the upgrades we would have wanted as standard. If I sign I'm looking at $600k GST included. Should I be having a certain number put aside for incidentals once we start going through the selection process?

PS - Some great info in here on things I hadn't considered so thanks!

[403ep3]

Originally posted by Perfect Dark
I'm looking to see what you guys think of a deal I negotiated with a builder. I thought it was pretty reasonable but I've only ever purchased used so I don't know the new build market well at all. This is in Airdrie btw, I know that plays a pretty big factor price-wise.

Lot is 48'x148' (pie lot, tapers to 32' in the back)
2800 sq ft house
9' ceilings on all floors
23'x34' attached garage
4 BR upstairs w/ two bonus rooms and 3 baths (en suite + 2 full baths)
Laminate throughout the main floor, carpet upstairs
Wrought iron railings
Expanded mud room and walk through pantry by 2' in width

That's the gist of it, the house already had most of the upgrades we would have wanted as standard. If I sign I'm looking at $600k GST included. Should I be having a certain number put aside for incidentals once we start going through the selection process?

PS - Some great info in here on things I hadn't considered so thanks!

Dang airdrie is so much cheaper than Calgary haha. I went with Nolan for 2500 sq ft with a big pie lot and spent650. Too bad airdrie is far from family and friends.

Appliances, door/cabinet handles, cabinet types, furnishings if you don't already have a 2800 sq ft house.

Good luck!

[gwill]

no one can say if you got a good deal as every house is built differently. Its like comparing 2 different makes of vehicles and saying one friend over paid because the other vehicle was cheaper.

It seems your happy so id say you got a good deal.

[?????]

What are some uses for 240V in the garage? I know "if you have to ask..." but it would be nice to have something I may need for the future and if i do get it installed make sure I put it in a good location.

[kenny]

Originally posted by ?????
What are some uses for 240V in the garage? I know "if you have to ask..." but it would be nice to have something I may need for the future and if i do get it installed make sure I put it in a good location.

Garage heater, larger compressors, welder, laundry relocation, or EV charging. Everybody has a different reason.

[cet]

Originally posted by Perfect Dark
I'm looking to see what you guys think of a deal I negotiated with a builder. I thought it was pretty reasonable but I've only ever purchased used so I don't know the new build market well at all. This is in Airdrie btw, I know that plays a pretty big factor price-wise.

Lot is 48'x148' (pie lot, tapers to 32' in the back)
2800 sq ft house
9' ceilings on all floors
23'x34' attached garage
4 BR upstairs w/ two bonus rooms and 3 baths (en suite + 2 full baths)
Laminate throughout the main floor, carpet upstairs
Wrought iron railings
Expanded mud room and walk through pantry by 2' in width

That's the gist of it, the house already had most of the upgrades we would have wanted as standard. If I sign I'm looking at $600k GST included. Should I be having a certain number put aside for incidentals once we start going through the selection process?

PS - Some great info in here on things I hadn't considered so thanks!

Once the build gets going you have to go and choose all of the finishing for your house. Paint, trim, flooring, cabinets, etc. With each of these selections you have the opportunity to upgrade from what the builder has given an allowance for to whatever you want. Some of the he bigger areas for upgrade are things like appliances and lighting. Don't forget about landscaping as well. That can add quite a bit depending on what you want to do.

[gwill]

perfect dark- most builders will get buyers to get approval for a higher amount then the cost of the house in case buyers want to do additional upgrades at the design centers.

For example they add a buffer of 10-20k in your paperwork for additional upgrades. If your house was 600k theyd get you to get approval for 620k. This is to make sure the upgrades they do can actually be paid for with the mortgage.

If you dont spend the allowance then great but if you do then they know the bank will fund it...

[cream]

Looking for some input on TV placement in living room.

We're pretty TV oriented people - want to be able to watch while doing dishes and etc.

1. Contemplating putting in a conduit so we can mount above fireplace or,

2. Putting TV @ eye level in corner with corner tv stand -BUT it will block a window (24x72"). Stand will be something like this link (https://www.lowes.ca/tv-stands/corliving-tal-6-alturas-60-in-tv-stand_g2259267.html)

3. Putting it on TV stand / mount against the 8' wall. Probably better for living room flow however will not be able to see TV from kitchen.

Thoughts? I'm thinking conduit to above fireplace anyway since it may be good for resale. If we do mount there, I'd probably go for a mount that can be moved down laterally as I believe it'd be too high to watch comfortably.


3d layout (http://imgur.com/a/NKQHo)
blueprint (http://imgur.com/a/JCn4m)

excuse my MSPaint :)

[88CRX]

I'm not a huge fan of the tv above the fireplace either but please don't put it in front of the window lol.

Maybe do a wall mount that swings out on the 8' wall?

[J-hop]

I vote no on above the fireplace. You'll be limited on tv size if you ever want to upgrade from the 55 and craning your neck to watch will drive you or your guests insane.

How big is the window. We have done exactly as you painted. We have two small windows on either side of out fireplace wall. The one we've partially blocked you would have to be standing very close to the wall to look out so it doesn't block the view and we still get tons of light in

[403ep3]

I ended up placing my tv above the fireplace with a wall mount that pulls out and turns. Size limitations don't matter as any large tv would go in the bonus or in the the basement when I develop it

http://m.costco.ca/Kanto-PDX650-Full-Motion-Mount-for-37-in.-to-75-in.-Flat-Panel-TVs--Black.product.100087861.html

[cream]

Hmm, I initially planned on a swivel mount on the 8' wall. But I've heard generally for TV mounts, the spot you adjust it is the spot you keep it.

As mentioned above, our bonus room will eventually become 'the' TV room once we can afford a bigger one.

Window is 24"x72". 9ft ceiling height. Window trim begins 1ft below ceiling I believe. I realized, whether it's in the corner or mounted on the 8' wall, that window blind will have to be closed 100% of the time that you're watching TV.

I guess there's an option 4 that would be to keep the main floor clean and put the 55" tv right into the bonus room upstairs from day 1. Part of me believes this is best (because its what showhomes do). But i'd still like to make it my own home.. Hmmm

Thanks for the input guys!

[jwslam]

Originally posted by cream
3. Putting it on TV stand / mount against the 8' wall. Probably better for living room flow however will not be able to see TV from kitchen.
My buddy has an extra TV over their pantry for this reason. Doesn't really serve a purpose to me as it's behind you when you're doing dishes (was put in by previous homeowner)

[ExtraSlow]

Pretty nice if you like your home to look like an airport departures lounge. :thumbsup:

[88CRX]

Been poking around with builders on a 'move up' or ‘move up estate’ (LOL, whatever they call them now) and the builders are hungry.

Such a different process from building a house 4 years ago. These guys will do anything to make a sale. Discounted lots ($40k off), massive amount of upgrade allowance ($30k), referral bonuses ($5k), negotiating of price from the moment we stepped into the show homes and they will modify the plan to basically whatever you want. Great for getting a triple garage haha.

What sort of per ft2 prices are you guys seeing on recent builds? Seems the prices are coming in between $230-$250/ft2.

[88CRX]

Originally posted by gwill


Sky lights are never a good idea so you didnt miss out there.

Is your concern with skylights potential leaks and/or hail damage? When you have such small side yards (and views of your neighbours siding) its nice to bring natural light in through skylights.

[03ozwhip]

Originally posted by cream
Looking for some input on TV placement in living room.

We're pretty TV oriented people - want to be able to watch while doing dishes and etc.

1. Contemplating putting in a conduit so we can mount above fireplace or,

2. Putting TV @ eye level in corner with corner tv stand -BUT it will block a window (24x72"). Stand will be something like this link (https://www.lowes.ca/tv-stands/corliving-tal-6-alturas-60-in-tv-stand_g2259267.html)

3. Putting it on TV stand / mount against the 8' wall. Probably better for living room flow however will not be able to see TV from kitchen.

Thoughts? I'm thinking conduit to above fireplace anyway since it may be good for resale. If we do mount there, I'd probably go for a mount that can be moved down laterally as I believe it'd be too high to watch comfortably.


3d layout (http://imgur.com/a/NKQHo)
blueprint (http://imgur.com/a/JCn4m)

excuse my MSPaint :)
I purposely had my cantilever and built in shelving built for the TV above the fireplace. I can go up to 60" and have a 58" right now.

for me, that's all I will need because when I develop the basement it will be the dedicated theatre. if you want a pic of it I can throw one up.

[kenny]

Originally posted by 88CRX


Is your concern with skylights potential leaks and/or hail damage? When you have such small side yards (and views of your neighbours siding) its nice to bring natural light in through skylights.

:thumbsup:

We love our skylight in the ensuite. If our builder was more flexible we would've added a pair of skylights in the hallway. I wonder if they would be more open to it now based on your post about them being hungry for sales.

[88CRX]

Originally posted by kenny


:thumbsup:

We love our skylight in the ensuite. If our builder was more flexible we would've added a pair of skylights in the hallway. I wonder if they would be more open to it now based on your post about them being hungry for sales.

The one builder offered to draft up a site plan and new elevations of our proposed modified triple garage house the first time we went through the showhome. My last build they wouldn’t draft shit all until we have dropped a deposit on the lot and house.

[roopi]

Originally posted by 88CRX
Been poking around with builders on a 'move up' or ‘move up estate’ (LOL, whatever they call them now) and the builders are hungry.



Which community are you seeing builders offer these lot discounts?