High mileage Xterra would you take a chance?

[Skrilla]

Have a chance to pick up a gen 1 xterra non supercharged. Has 318k original senior owner in absolute immaculate shape...except it burns oil fairly high rate and has a knock on start up but goes away after driving...no idle issues and no blue smoke. It's $1500, not sure if it's worth it for a bush beater or not. .thoughts?

Edit: Oil issue started about 2000kms ago. Third timing belt no major service issues just normal maintenance I am told

[RickDaTuner]

Oil issue is probably from worn valve seals, could also be a bad PCV valve stuck open. knock on start if from worn pistons.

2nd gen Xterra, and Frontiers were/are bullet proof.

I'd buy it if you are prepared to use high millage synthetic oil, with a heavier weight, and able/willing to replace the valve stem seals.

[J-hop]

What is your end goal? How much are you will to put into it? And how mechanically inclined are you? If it's just for putting around town sure, but if you want to do road trips, camping, skiing etc I'd say no unless you are going to put some work into it.

[Skrilla]

Longest trip would be 25 minutes of gravel to the lake. I just figured it may be worth it if I could get even 6 months or a year out of it, I know nothing about this engine or xterras in general so I wasn't sure if this is common. Seems like valve guides are a big issue on higher mileage units, I wouldn't have the resources to do these myself, and no clue what the cost to fix would be. I was just torn as the condition is ridiculous.

[Skrilla]

I think I am gonna chance it. I talked to the mechanic that serviced it since new. He said he would just monitor the oil and drive it. The valve train noise just started, and no blowing smoke he wasnt worried about rings. $1500 is hard to pass up for the condition its in. Even if it needs $1500 or so down the road.

[RickDaTuner]

If its a tick, and not a knock from the valve train, then yeah one of the lifters is the culprit, and I would run it just like that.

The oil consumption will be an issue if it starts to use more than 1-1.5L per 5000kms that will lead to catalytic converter blockage.

Replacing the valve stems seals, and guides, is not the biggest job in the world, it just requires a few special tools, and an entire day or two, depending on how mechanically inclined you are.

Again I'd run the truck, maybe even do a seafoaming through the crank case, and through the intake, followed by an STP additive oil change.

[01RedDX]

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[Skrilla]

Originally posted by RickDaTuner

I'd buy it if you are prepared to use high millage synthetic oil, with a heavier weight, and able/willing to replace the valve stem seals.

Thanks for the response...Any recommendation on weight and brand? I know Quaker makes one..

[RickDaTuner]

Originally posted by Skrilla


Thanks for the response...Any recommendation on weight and brand? I know Quaker makes one..

NP :thumbsup:
Quaker state high millage 5-30, or 5-40 oil.
Or just use a full synthetic oil with an additive such as Lucas or STP.

Personal preference at that point.

[J-hop]

Originally posted by RickDaTuner


NP :thumbsup:
Quaker state high millage 5-30, or 5-40 oil.
Or just use a full synthetic oil with an additive such as Lucas or STP.

Personal preference at that point.

Yea on my old Subaru I run a castrol 5w-40 synthetic and the oil consumption is way better than the 5w-30 dino juice I used to run.

Yea OP if it's just for short trips I would chance it. I bought a $2500 Subaru that is now at 370k (not original motor but still). Probably the best investment I've ever made. I figure some people waste 3-400/ month on car payments for a car they will never actually own in the end while I spent an average of less than $50/month on a car I own. The insurance is also dirt cheap so that extra 250-350 that would have gone out the window on a car payment, plus another 80 or so per month for the insurance difference goes straight into investments that actually make me money. Can't beat that!

[Maxt]

Check the rear wheel seals and bearings, my parents had one of those and it turned into a 3 wheeler at highway speeds and was found to be a common issue.

[canadian_hustla]

For that price, its a no-brainer

Worst case is that there is catastrophic mechanical failure and you can sell it for 500 - 1000 for parts

[revelations]

I would buy it and then do a leakdown test to see where the problem actually is (prob a few hundred to find out) . Could be something simple like mentioned above.

[roll_over]

Just buy it and drive it till it dies, fill it up with fluids every now and then. It’s $1500, if it dies then just call a scrap removal company and collect a 50 from them. if you get 6 months out of it then I think that’s money well spent.