Amsoil vs Royal Purple vs synthetic oil

[spikerS]

so, did an oil change on my truck today, picked up some castrol edge fully synthetic, and completed the change.

Afterwards, a friend of mine told me he is an amsoil dealer, and will sell me the oil and such at his cost. In talking with him, he mentioned that they have 3 tiers, the top tier being good for 48,000kms and the mid-tier being good for 20,000kms.

I am wondering though, while the extended life is appealing, how do manufacturers view them? If you put oil good for 48kms, are the dealers ok with that kind of interval? does it void warranty?

Also, are these oils worth it? do they provide any real benefits or is it marketing?

[rvd]

This is the place to ask/read bobistheoilguy.com/

[btimbit]

It's a mix of both marketing and real benefits. While the oil itself might not breakdown for 48 000 kms the additives and detergents still do way before that

I've always kind of wanted to try it though, and just send a sample in for testing every few thousand kms just for piece of mind. I have a hard enough time doing my synthetic changes at 10 000kms though so not sure I could mentally handle 4x times that without thinking I'm destroying my engine

Good question about the warranty though, I'm curious now as well

[jacky4566]

Originally posted by rvd
This is the place to ask/read bobistheoilguy.com/

^^^ There is an entire forum dedicated to oil haha we dont need to start another one here.

[relyt92]

Manufacturers won't care how great the oil typically is, if you're doing 48,000km intervals when manual calls for 8k or something, you've likely said goodbye to any engine warranty.

[SkiBum5.0]

Canada also falls firmly into Extreme conditions, which Amsoil probably doesn't include in the 48000km interval.

[pdm111]

Not sure I'd trust the oil filter lasting that long even if the oil did

[Hallowed_point]

Buy whatever synthetic is on sale and use a decent filter. The end.

[R154]

In every car i've owned I changed the oil at 5K consistently regardless of the "regular interval" because I don't trust any filter. Always synthetic. I am also aware that synthetic oil is good for longer intervals. However, no filter will last as long as the oil will.

Lubromoly (liquimoly) blue bottle.

Buy it directly from a german supplier and have it shipped once a year.

I'll never trust oil or filters sold at a walmart. That's just me.

Amsoil is great oil.

[revelations]

I'd do a 15,000km change on a "48,000" oil. Send a sample to a lab (there is one in Edmonton) and see the results.

If the oil is fine, you COULD get away with just changing the filter out 2-3x in that cycle - although as stated, we fall into extreme driving conditions and as such you might not get past 30,000kms.

[riander5]

I hate how my car calls for full synthetic and dealer change intervals are like every facking 6000 kms. Oh well while on warranty you gotta i guess

[HiTempguy1]

Originally posted by Hallowed_point
Buy whatever synthetic is on sale and use a decent filter. The end.

Yep.

Anyone paying $100 for 5 litres of oil is a goof.

[My_name_is_Rob]

Originally posted by Hallowed_point
Buy whatever synthetic is on sale and use a decent filter. The end.

+1

I usually buy a couple jugs of my preferred oil when it's on sale, just so I am not rushed to get something come oil change time.

[Hallowed_point]

Originally posted by HiTempguy1


Yep.

Anyone paying $100 for 5 litres of oil is a goof. I've done it. Ran RP, Amsoil, Redline, Lucas and so on. Didn't notice any difference in a street car. Just a lower bank account balance. I think where most people go wrong is not running a quality filter read: no motomaster junk.

[r3ccOs]

spikerS - being that you have an ecoboost and I believe the same 1st gen engine... as per RickDaTuner, frequent oil changes are more important than anything in this truck.

I don't run more than 5k, and I used many different oils, ranging from the Mastercraft (ford) semi-synthetic to the pennzoil ultra platinum

being that I change the oil as frequently as I do, I really cannot tell a difference, but for my own sanity, I use the best synthetic I can in the winter months, as I may not always be able to plug in the truck for an extended period at work.

Synthetics are just that... oil or NGL based hydrocarbons re-assembled to ensure the most consistency of the oil.

They are in varying groupings ranging from 1-5, where 1-3 are mostly "refined" (essentially distilled) mineral based oil (3 being semi-synthetic), and 4-5 are real polyalphaolefins synthesized lubricants

I believe that with even mobile 1, and most main brand fully synthetics are not actually group 4 or greater.

The pennzoil ultra platinum, Castrol Syntec (german) as is Amsoil, royal purple and Motul are group >4 and can be synthesized through varying feedstock from crude or natrual gas

With that all said, the higher the grade, the more uniform the hydrocarbon, which under extreme conditions means an increase to oil sheer stability (measure of the resistance of an oil to change in viscosity, caused by the oil being subjected to mechanical stress or shear)

likes ball bearings, the more uniform, the smoother and longer they will continue to turn.

With that said... Grade >4 oils will not yield any tangible performance or durability gains if the application does not warrant it. In fact the proprietary additives of the oil may be more beneficial for road vehicles.... and in fact I've heard that Grade 3> oils with a larger mineral base is more stable and better for DI engines that happen to be subject to gas dilution and soot.

Most Grade >3 oils are more than sufficient for all year round drive ability and I think frequency of changes with good quality filters is the most important.

I believe that Yota, Honda and Ford (and many others I suspect) all have moved to a high grade (3) semi-synthetic that has alloted for the extended change frequencies.

If you read the bob is the oil guy forum, the motocraft filter and oil has tested positively... I believe was even used for all the 1st gen release of the ecoboost engine torture tests

If SAY, I tow 8k+ routinely in all conditions for work, or was aggressively tuned, always racing and pushing those turbos to 20k RPM and those injectors hard, I'd definitely switch to a Grade 4 oil... but for those who aren't... there is no point


oh and as to the Amsoil "amway" type franchise model they have... my friend is one.

He has a 2010 5.4 F150 and has used their additives for the transmission, diffs, coolant and religiously changes his oil @ 20k intervals

well... he has 130k km on it, and now has to get the cam phasers replaced.

[mzdspd]

When I was in high school I worked at a shop changing oil.. And I can tell you one common occurrence that I noticed with the guys using the Amsoil 48k oil.. Every car that used it was pissing out oil.

They all leaked oil but all of the guys swore by it. And they were always getting their oil analyzed when they would bring them in.

[mzdspd]

Originally posted by r3ccOs

oh and as to the Amsoil "amway" type franchise model they have... my friend is one.

He has a 2010 5.4 F150 and has used their additives for the transmission, diffs, coolant and religiously changes his oil @ 20k intervals

well... he has 130k km on it, and now has to get the cam phasers replaced.

These guys seem to be brain washed with amsoil. I will stick with oem specs for oil changes and oil grades..

[Mitsu3000gt]

These days, I am very much of the opinion that you will never see any negative effects over a vehicle's lifetime by using quality synthetic and regular change intervals, regardless of brand. I don't think there's ever been a case of "If Only I had used Amsoil or Royal Purple, X problem wouldn't have happened." Letting vehicles go crazy KM without oil/filter changes doesn't sit well with me, and voids warranty if you're on it.

Dealer bulk full-synthetic and manufacturer recommended oil change intervals is what I do. I have never, and don't expect to ever, have issues. Nor would I ever own a car long enough where oil-related issues would occur.

[ercchry]

Should never come close to the factory interval on a turbo engine that sees towing duty, especially with our conditions, those eco boosts like fresh oil... I'd say anything you can buy at CT for synthetic is going to be really close... for me it's motul all the way. Proven oil, my shop of choice has tested many, many oils and they stand by it

Edit: anyone remember when royal purple was really popular? "Duuude, my car is faster cause purple! Makes 10 more horse power!!!!" :rofl:

[btimbit]

Originally posted by r3ccOs
well... he has 130k km on it, and now has to get the cam phasers replaced. [/B]

To be fair, on that engine he's eventually doing this with whatever oil he uses.

[heavyD]

Originally posted by Mitsu3000gt
These days, I am very much of the opinion that you will never see any negative effects over a vehicle's lifetime by using quality synthetic and regular change intervals, regardless of brand. I don't think there's ever been a case of "If Only I had used Amsoil or Royal Purple, X problem wouldn't have happened." Letting vehicles go crazy KM without oil/filter changes doesn't sit well with me, and voids warranty if you're on it.

Dealer bulk full-synthetic and manufacturer recommended oil change intervals is what I do. I have never, and don't expect to ever, have issues. Nor would I ever own a car long enough where oil-related issues would occur.

I agree. Most engines theses days last well past their warranty and most failures are caused by manufacturing defects, aftermarket modification, or neglect. Spending extra on designer oil isn't going to save your engine from failing if it was manufactured with defective parts or if you beat on it and change aftermarket parameters. Maybe it's piece of mind to some but at the end of the day it's just money wasted.

We always have two cars. My wife's is always dealer serviced at manufacturer intervals and I have always done my own always in shorter intervals and typically more expensive oil than dealer bulk synthetic or dyno oil. None of her cars have ever failed or had lubrication issues despite her cars always having higher mileage due to it being more of a family hauler.

[btimbit]

The standard for oil these days is so high anyway, if I had a regular non turbo car like my wifes old Accord I'd have no problem using whatever cheap dino oil that they have on sale at Canadian Tire. As long as it meets current API specs it's not like there's an oil out there that won't lubricate enough, it just might have less additives.

Filters on the other hand, I never cheap out on

[ercchry]

If anyone wants to go full nerd... this is a read... I don't think I've ever got through the whole thing

https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/

[ExtraSlow]

Never trust the guy who sells the product to give you reliable information on the product.

Your warranty requires a certain oil change itnerval, and certain SAE specifications for that oil. Last I checked Amsoil doesn't have that SAE certification.

[spikerS]

Well, i know what oil I am going to use in our winters...

uQ_vxdO_9nc

[btimbit]

Interesting, but to be fair they tested oil rated for -30 at -40.

Still though, poor showing for royal purple

[spikerS]

Originally posted by btimbit
Interesting, but to be fair they tested oil rated for -30 at -40.

Still though, poor showing for royal purple

agreed, and while -30 is more like a temperature we will see here, -40 is not out of the realm of possibility, and these are the oils that we would all be using.

I am a big fan of Mobil 1 and use that whenever possible. Now I will be sure that it is in my truck between October and April of every year...LOL

[ExtraSlow]

It's a dramatic test that makes a good video, but not really a great way to choose your lubricant. Making oil thinner is easy. Would be neat if the same dudes ran a similar test on fully hot oil, in which case you'd want the one that flowed slowest.

Anyway, use an sae certified oil, plug in your block heater when it's cold, and change the oil according to the vehicle manufacturers recommended interval. If you do those things, you'll be fine in every season.

[ercchry]

If you guys clicked my link up there you'd know that Mobil 1 is a consistently high performing oil

[revelations]

^ I read parts of it and yea I will be switching to Mobile 1 (or back, I should say).

Also goes to show how little viscosity ratings actually mean in real life.

[r3ccOs]

Originally posted by ercchry
If you guys clicked my link up there you'd know that Mobil 1 is a consistently high performing oil

Its a very good Grade 3 Oil, where I think its additives make it a top performer

[heavyD]

Originally posted by ercchry
If you guys clicked my link up there you'd know that Mobil 1 is a consistently high performing oil

According to that 5W-30 Pennzoil Ultra is probably the best overall performing oil for street use.

[btimbit]

Yeah I usually go between Mobil 1 and Penzoil Platinum, whichever of the 2 are on sale. Both test very well

[SkiBum5.0]

sPikers, is your friend open to extending that discount to other members? They sell a 5w50 I'd like to try. I'd PM you but it looks like you turned it off.

[Ashik5Hales]

Should never come close to the factory interval on a turbo engine that sees towing duty, especially with our conditions, those eco boosts like fresh oil... I'd say anything you can buy at CT for synthetic is going to be really close... for me it's motul all the way. Proven oil, my shop of choice has tested many, many oils and they stand by it

Edit: anyone remember when royal purple oil (https://reviewsdone.com/royal-purple-oil-reviews/) was really popular? "Duuude, my car is faster cause purple! Makes 10 more horse power!!!!" :rofl:
did they put in my Royal Purple Synthetic oil????

[ShermanEF9]

My thing is this. When is the last time you heard of Oil Failure being the cause of engine failure? Not loss of pressure, not loss of flow, but oil failure.

Oil is Oil is Oil. Like its been said, whatevers on sale at CT.

[Hallowed_point]

I usually buy Castrol Edge titanium or whichever somewhat decent syn that CT has on sale. I think what a lot of people overlook is the filter. OEM or Bosch/Mobil 1 filters for me.

[HiTempguy1]

I usually buy Castrol Edge titanium or whichever somewhat decent syn that CT has on sale. I think what a lot of people overlook is the filter. OEM or Bosch/Mobil 1 filters for me.

The best testing ever done was by the original BobIsTheOilGuy.

They took a brand new, 2002 Camaro SS. LS1 car, obviously. Did one oil change after the recommended break in period. Never changed the oil after. They did sample tests at the recommended oil change intervals and changed the oil filter at the same time, and then topped up during the filter change and anytime the level started to drop. Oil consumption was less than 1 litre every 5,000 miles or so.

60k miles on the car and they gave up, everything was fine, and the LS1 runs hot from the factory (fans don't kick in until 210*). With modern day motors and how little blowby they suffer, along with better oils overall, it really does come down to making sure your filter isn't plugged.

I run all my diesels to 15k kms on a single synthetic oil change. Cars are 10k kms.

[Hallowed_point]

The best testing ever done was by the original BobIsTheOilGuy.

They took a brand new, 2002 Camaro SS. LS1 car, obviously. Did one oil change after the recommended break in period. Never changed the oil after. They did sample tests at the recommended oil change intervals and changed the oil filter at the same time, and then topped up during the filter change and anytime the level started to drop. Oil consumption was less than 1 litre every 5,000 miles or so.

60k miles on the car and they gave up, everything was fine, and the LS1 runs hot from the factory (fans don't kick in until 210*). With modern day motors and how little blowby they suffer, along with better oils overall, it really does come down to making sure your filter isn't plugged.

I run all my diesels to 15k kms on a single synthetic oil change. Cars are 10k kms.

I believe it. Once I did the LS6 intake/pcv conversion on my 98 my oil consumption went down to basically nothing. Sent a sample in to Blackstone Labs and my engine showed next to no wear even at 100,000 hard miles. After that I went from changing oil/filter every 4 months to every 6. Yeah my LT1 runs a tad hot stock for emissions and fuel economy but I rarely hear high speed fans unless I'm stuck in heavy traffic in summer heat.

[mikestypes]

I run Mobil 1, bought when on sale at Can Tire, for all my vehicles. Filters are always Wix.

The only vehicle that gets changed based on distance traveled is our 2011 Edge and I go by the oil life indicator at 15%. That usually works out to 14-16k between changes. 170k on it now and runs great, no engine issues or leaks. Oil looks great when it comes out, especially compared to the 5000km oil that comes out of the direct injected Mazdaspeed. Edge is dark brown compared to the stinky black shit that comes out of the Mazda.

[Skrilla]

Shell Rotella for everything, bikes, trucks, etc.. Pick up a 5gal pail when they are on sale. Love that stuff, and its JASO cert.

[mr2mike]

My thing is this. When is the last time you heard of Oil Failure being the cause of engine failure? Not loss of pressure, not loss of flow, but oil failure.
Oil is Oil is Oil. Like its been said, whatevers on sale at CT.
Everyone here talkin' like they don't lease their vehicles and hit the remote start and let the engine "warm up" for 30 min.

[J-hop]

Everyone here talkin' like they don't lease their vehicles and hit the remote start and let the engine "warm up" for 30 min.

Or the good old, I installed a boost controller, cranked the boost, didn’t upgrade the fuel system and mobil1 blew up my engine.

Oil debate 99% of the time degrade to arguments of poor correlations, ignorance and bad anecdotal evidence

[ExtraSlow]

Everyone here talkin' like they don't lease their vehicles and hit the remote start and let the engine "warm up" for 30 min.
Remote start or gtfo.

[Sentry]

Freshness and correct viscosity is what matters the most, if it's from a reputable brand it's plenty good. If it's black as fuck, change it, I don't care what Amsoil says it's good to. Excluding diesels obviously, those turn oil black in 20km.

Motul 8100 X-Power 10W60 for the M5 changed once a year in the spring, car only ever sees above zero temps. Works out to about 5-6000km
Motul 8100 X-Cess 5W40 for every other car I own changed at approx 8000km.

Not a Motul fanboy, it's just what's cheap and available to me through work.

[Maxt]

I switched my cummins over to synthetic at 450,000 km's. The big difference is the blow by tube has dried right up and you can't smell it standing beside the truck anymore. I found a good deal on the synthetic, buying in bulk so I pay less for it than I did for the regular 15w40. Still changing it at every 10k though like I did before.

[mr2mike]

Remote start or gtfo.

Won't someone think of the cold children?

[J-hop]

Very timely

ttGQW217wTM