Triple Garage with a column in it?

[88CRX]

Anyone have experience with their triple garage having a wing wall (and column) or just a column floating in the middle of the garage between the double and single stalls? Column is to pick up the bonus room above the garage.

Trying to work our some options now but is this going to suck as much as I think it going to?

[jwslam]

No experience but how much it sucks depends what your garage will be used for I guess.

If the single side is meant to be a storage or shop area, then it may not be so bad to separate it, heck you might want to put in a full wall for more hanging space.
If it's all cars, you might still consider the full wall for hanging space, and put a nicer car on the single side to prevent kids from door dinging your own cars with eachother?

I would bet it's possible to run without the column at all if your beams ran from house to garage door... might require going to 3x single garage doors? Seems fishy that you'd HAVE to put in a post but I'm just a dumb engineer, not the structural kind.

[never]

Anyone have experience with their triple garage having a wing wall (and column) or just a column floating in the middle of the garage between the double and single stalls? Column is to pick up the bonus room above the garage.

Trying to work our some options now but is this going to suck as much as I think it going to?

I have a post in the middle of a double drive under garage and it sucks but we are used to it now. In a triple, as mentioned, it will depend on how it was used but I wouldn't think it would be as bad as the double.

[Sugarphreak]

...

[88CRX]

if it is a new build, it should be fairly straight forward to have them to either hang the perpendicular beam from the main beam, or even just drop the main beam so it can sit on top, and then just extend the main one out to the exterior wall and drop a post there

they should be able to do it with a decent sized psl, or if depth becomes and issue you can ask them to use a steel beam. If they make a big fuss about it being too hard, i can cobble some details together for you, haha :)

pm'd

[SilverGS]

I have a column in between the double and single. Doesn't bother me too much but it can get in the way of the back door depending how you park your cars. Otherwise, I don't use my garage for anything that requires the full open area so other having people being a bit more careful when exiting the back seat it has not been an issue.

[benyl]

Get one of these... that post in the middle will suck.

79811

We had to wait 10 days for this to be custom cut for us from YVR. Delayed out build, but so worth it.

[benyl]

another view.

79812

[88CRX]

What was the cost? And whats the span of the steel beam?

Also our garage orientation doesnt have any spans that long. Like Sugarphreak said we can add a beam running perpendicular to the bonus room beam to pickup the load.

[benyl]

35 ft. $3040 in 2011.

[88CRX]

35 ft. $3040 in 2011.

Thanks! Pretty sure we can pickup the span in the perpendicular direction with a 16" LVL which would be alot cheaper then that.

Also assume you have a drop bulkhead in your garage now? Makes it more challenging for a lift I suppose.

[03ozwhip]

ya I have a beam in the middle and it pissed me off. that one 2x2 beam is such a pain in the ass. if i would have thought about it, I would gotten the beam along the top.

it will cost quite a bit more though. I'm pretty sure somewhere around the 5k mark.

[Quizzes]

Should be able to run wooden beams perpendicular all across without having a post in the middle. Had to drop the Bonus Room to make this work.

Here's the blueprint of my place.

79813

[JustinL]

Makes it more challenging for a lift I suppose.

If you're doing a 2 or 4 post lift, you're going to have extra columns no matter what. The column in my garage is closer towards the single side, so doesn't affect anything of the double really. It is one more thing to work around if you are moving big things, but really it's a non-issue. I'd agree with what others are saying in terms of it depends on what you are going to use that part of your garage for. If it's going to be a daily driver with people getting out of the back door all the time it might be worth doing something, but if it's going to have a lift or be a more hobby area, then I wouldn't worry about it. If you are doing a lift, then prioritize ceiling height.

http://i.imgur.com/RLIjFQ2.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/qsBsg7E.jpg

[CLiVE]

Thanks! Pretty sure we can pickup the span in the perpendicular direction with a 16" LVL which would be alot cheaper then that.

Also assume you have a drop bulkhead in your garage now? Makes it more challenging for a lift I suppose.

Mine is similar. 32' steel beam across that forms a bulkhead. But 35' deep garage, so really doesn't bug me.
Sorry for the dark pic, but the only one I have during construction.

[88CRX]

Here's the layout in question....

http://i.imgur.com/3JYRyc2.jpg

Honestly I'm planning for a lift at some point (for storage), but might not be in the cards right away. In which case I can store 2 vehicles tight up against the single stall wall (since its wider) and fit 4 cars across the entire garage, which is where the flexibility of no column (or wall) comes into play.

Pretty sure the costs to add a wooden beam should be fairly minor, only talking about a 20' span.

- - - Updated - - -


Mine is similar. 32' steel beam across that forms a bulkhead. But 35' deep garage, so really doesn't bug me.
Sorry for the dark pic, but the only one I have during construction.

Looks good!

Were your costs similar to Benyl's?

[CLiVE]

Looks good!

Were your costs similar to Benyl's?

Yes, I believe it was similar. 2013 build. Will try to find the documents.

[benyl]

Here's the layout in question....

http://i.imgur.com/3JYRyc2.jpg



I don't know if it is too late, but do yourself two HUGE favours.

1. 9x8 door
2. 18x8 door.

I can't see the height of the doors, but 8ft doors are a must. I can drive my truck into my garage with mountain bikes mounted on a North Shore rack on an F150. That way I can unload inside if it is raining outside.

[CLiVE]

I don't know if it is too late, but do yourself two HUGE favours.

1. 9x8 door
2. 18x8 door.

I can't see the height of the doors, but 8ft doors are a must. I can drive my truck into my garage with mountain bikes mounted on a North Shore rack on an F150. That way I can unload inside if it is raining outside.

+1 I drive right in with my F150 with bikes mounted on the tonneau cover.

[88CRX]

I don't know if it is too late, but do yourself two HUGE favours.

1. 9x8 door
2. 18x8 door.

I can't see the height of the doors, but 8ft doors are a must. I can drive my truck into my garage with mountain bikes mounted on a North Shore rack on an F150. That way I can unload inside if it is raining outside.

Yup, I think you mentioned that in another thread and we plan on making the doors larger (9x8 and 18x8) which in turn uses less brick/stone on the exterior... which might actually save us a couple hundred dollars (which is nice).

[Kloubek]

We just finished our build 6 months ago. They placed one of those posts about 1/3 of the way into our garage, between the double bay and the single bay. Honestly, it's barely noticeable. It takes up a literal... what.. 6X6 space? And yes - they can generally situate the beams so that no post exists, but that may cost more depending on your elevation.

Now a full wall - I'd really wonder why that would be required. I'm pretty sure using a post would be the method of choice in most new builds.

[gogreen]

Here's the layout in question....

http://i.imgur.com/3JYRyc2.jpg

Honestly I'm planning for a lift at some point (for storage), but might not be in the cards right away. In which case I can store 2 vehicles tight up against the single stall wall (since its wider) and fit 4 cars across the entire garage, which is where the flexibility of no column (or wall) comes into play.

Pretty sure the costs to add a wooden beam should be fairly minor, only talking about a 20' span.

- - - Updated - - -



Looks good!

Were your costs similar to Benyl's?

I have a very similar setup in the '08 build I just moved into. The dimensions on mine are pretty much what you have there, only my short wall might actually be closer to 8 feet. I have a project tucked in there so the wall actually helps keep things separated from the parking area, and my only real concern was the width of the single bay which hasn't been an issue so far. Not having it there would definitely open up more options for parking but for me it wasn't a dealbreaker.

[Sugarphreak]

...

[88CRX]

Got it all sorted out.... the cost was +/- $400 to pull the stub wall and post out and add 2 dropped wood LVL beams in the garage. Best $400 upgrade on the entire build haha.

Also the costs to upgrade from the 16’ and 8’ wide o/h doors to 18’ and 9’ actually saved us about $500 as the larger doors were cheaper than the cost savings of using less brick. We also upgraded the height of the o/h doors and height of the entire garage by 1’ and there was no cost to do that (shockingly).

[blownz]

Nice! If it isn't too late, it would be nice if that 3rd bad was a bit deeper. If you don't mind losing the window in the mudroom, you could easily add 6 feet or so which would be great for a work bench/bar. :)

Great garage though. :thumbsup:

[88CRX]

Nice! If it isn't too late, it would be nice if that 3rd bad was a bit deeper. If you don't mind losing the window in the mudroom, you could easily add 6 feet or so which would be great for a work bench/bar. :)

Great garage though. :thumbsup:

Too late.... footings are in & bank account is drained haha.

I really wanted to turn the triple stall into a tandem but garage square footage is not cheap! Garage ended up needing to be so damn wide (due to the lot width and architectural controls) that we decided to not make it any deeper. Figured a lift was cheaper for 4 car storage over adding another couple hundred square feet of garage space.

[blownz]

It is a difficult balancing act when building... but it is still going to be a great garage. :)