Should you still plug in if you use synthetic oil?

[Seth1968]

Of course it depends on just how cold we're talking about, but even if it's -30 like today, the synthetic oil shouldn't be sludge. So, does that mean it's at least somewhat unnecessary to use the block heater?

[G-ZUS]

If you're battery is strong enough you dont need a block heater

[revelations]

It depends 100% on the type of synthetic oil. Some synthetics wont pour any better than regular at these low temps.

Plugging in, if its available, is usually preferable.

[Seth1968]

It depends 100% on the type of synthetic oil. Some synthetics wont pour any better than regular at these low temps.



WTH? I thought that was one of the main selling points of synthetic.

[Mitsu3000gt]

WTH? I thought that was one of the main selling points of synthetic.
Most common synthetics have a pour point lower than any temperature Calgary ever gets to

http://highperformancejunkies.com/5w30-oil-comparison/

[Seth1968]

Most common synthetics have a pour point lower than any temperature Calgary ever gets to

http://highperformancejunkies.com/5w30-oil-comparison/

Whew. That makes me feel better:)

Still, I would never have imagined a range of 20 degrees.

[Seth1968]

If you're battery is strong enough you dont need a block heater


Plugging in, if its available, is usually preferable.

Please splain.

[EF9 Sedan]

Plugging in your car will always help reduce wear since the oil will be warm and it won’t take so long to get to operating temp. I don’t think it’s necessary though. Didn’t have any trouble with my 200k km ‘88 civic that was never plugged in.

[jutes]

Aren't most block heater plugs in the coolant system anyway? So unless you have one of those oil pan heater pads, like the wolverines, the residual heat from the block plug probably won't affect engine oil viscosity.

[Seth1968]

Plugging in your car will always help reduce wear since the oil will be warm and it won’t take so long to get to operating temp.

Well that depends on the type of oil. I just want to know if it's necessary to plug it in if you use a synthetic oil that retains it's viscosity even if it's let's say -30. It doesn't seem to be necessary, but I just want to make sure I'm not missing something.

[revelations]

WTH? I thought that was one of the main selling points of synthetic.

Main point?? Where did you that information?

Its not like 100% of synthetics will pour better than regular oils at low temperatures. So many factors to consider.

[ShermanEF9]

After my experience today, I will absolutely be plugging in when its cold. Its just easier on the vehicle. running mobil1 in my truck and she wouldn't start.. mind you it was possibly in combination with the battery, but -40 really took a toll on my v8.

[NissanFanBoy]

My Murano started no problem, but there were some other loud signs for the first 5-7 mins lol... Coming from around the front belt areas, yikes... Went away though and have never heard it other than in this temp.

[J-hop]

Fairly certain with the pour point depressants in conventional oil there is very little difference between the pour point of new synthetic vs new conventional. Now high mileage conventional vs high mileage synthetic is a different story.

Either way, plugging in when it’s this cold will do nothing but good things.

[ExtraSlow]

If you want oil that's thinner at startup get an oil witha lower xW specification. All 5w-30 oils fall within a reasonably narrow range. Sure some so-called synthetic oils (another meaningless distinction) may be slightly less viscous but the difference isn't meaningful no matter what the YouTube scientists say.

Buy the oil specified for your engine, maintain your battery, and plug in if you feel like it. That's the bottom line.

[J-hop]

Also bought an onboard Noco battery charger for my truck that I plug in along with the block heater, works wonders!

[ExtraSlow]

Battery maintainer is more important than block heater imo. I rarely plug my vehicles in but I always hook up the battery tender if I do.

[firebane]

Plugging in your car will always help reduce wear since the oil will be warm and it won’t take so long to get to operating temp. I don’t think it’s necessary though. Didn’t have any trouble with my 200k km ‘88 civic that was never plugged in.

Myth. Block heaters are coolant based and provide very little warmth to the oil pan. Want to warm up your pan? Use a pan heater.

Block heaters just allow the block to be a bit warmer to help in the cabin temps.

[J-hop]

Myth. Block heaters are coolant based and provide very little warmth to the oil pan. Want to warm up your pan? Use a pan heater.

Block heaters just allow the block to be a bit warmer to help in the cabin temps.

He’s partially right though. Although a block heater doesn’t heat the oil directly and very little conduction heat will make it to the pan it absolutely will (indirectly) get the oil up to operating temperature more quickly.

[revelations]

Myth. Block heaters are coolant based and provide very little warmth to the oil pan. Want to warm up your pan? Use a pan heater.

Block heaters just allow the block to be a bit warmer to help in the cabin temps.

That was my debate as well - block heater vs pan heater. In the end I chose pan heater because it was simpler. I did find that it helped warm up the car slightly faster than not though (on the morning I forgot to turn on the heater).

[Hallowed_point]

I say yes especially in these frigid temps. I know that my 98 Camaro hated cold starts and would sputter and die unless I held the gas at 1500 rpm until it warmed up a bit
even running premium synthetic.

*I ran a diesel style oil pan heater and that worked perfectly.

[Maxx Mazda]

I always plug in my truck if it’s below about -20 (F150 Ecoboost)

I run synthetic, so does it absolutely need it? No. But it’s a hell of a lot easier on the engine so why wouldn’t I?

[Akagi Redsuns]

He’s partially right though. Although a block heater doesn’t heat the oil directly and very little conduction heat will make it to the pan it absolutely will (indirectly) get the oil up to operating temperature more quickly.


Very true. My car's oil temp gauge starts reading temps above 30C and if I plug the car in, it will read 30C within a few a minutes of idling. If not plugged in, it takes the same few mins of idling, plus several minutes of driving before it registers 30C. I still plug it in despite my car running synthetic.

For fun will take a look at my OBDII temp readings but imagine the sensor location would greatly affect it.

[Seth1968]

Ok, thanks for the replies.

For a small engine such as less than 2 liters, I'm thinking about 2 to 3 hours plugged in should suffice. Correct?

[jutes]

Ok, thanks for the replies.

For a small engine such as less than 2 liters, I'm thinking about 2 to 3 hours plugged in should suffice. Correct?

You are better off using a block heater, oil pan pad heater, battery blanket and battery tender. That should fire her right up.

[J-hop]

You are better off using a block heater, oil pan pad heater, battery blanket and battery tender. That should fire her right up.

Where are you going to plug all that in haha

[Seth1968]

You are better off using a block heater, oil pan pad heater, battery blanket and battery tender. That should fire her right up.

I've got a 2003 Civic and a 2016 econobox Accent. Neither have any issue starting right up, even in the weather we have now.

I'll call the dealerships and find out if the heater is for the coolant, or the oil, but it seems that stock block heaters are for the coolant.

[Hallowed_point]

I've got a 2003 Civic and a 2016 econobox Accent. Neither have any issue starting right up, even in the weather we have now.

I'll call the dealerships and find out if the heater is for the coolant, or the oil, but it seems that stock block heaters are for the coolant.

A 4 cylinder car with a good battery should start fine. Bigger engine? Not so much

[Seth1968]

I didn't plug them in yesterday just to see how they started, and they both started without issue. The Accent sounded just fine, but the Civic moaned and groaned for a couple of minutes.

[NissanFanBoy]

Whatever I have works, plugged it in last night, this morning, no crazy sounds on start up.

[Darkane]

Plugging in is good.

Block heater will warm the coolant and the natural circulation will assist in warming the entire block, heads, Intake and oil.

It’s also preferable from an emissions point of view (if you care).

/Nerd:

Aluminum has a higher coefficient or expansion than cast iron /w aluminum alloy (typical piston material), therefore if left cold the aluminum would “shrink” around the cast causing less clearance and potentially more resistance. It’s probably negligible, i’m just spitballing. An all forged internal assembly tends to slap and make noises until it’s warmed up because of this too. More clearance cold.

[Hallowed_point]

^ Yup Gen 3 LS engines are a little slap happy when cold..nothing to fret about

[r3ccOs]

Plugging in is good.

Block heater will warm the coolant and the natural circulation will assist in warming the entire block, heads, Intake and oil.

It’s also preferable from an emissions point of view (if you care).

/Nerd:

Aluminum has a higher coefficient or expansion than cast iron /w aluminum alloy (typical piston material), therefore if left cold the aluminum would “shrink” around the cast causing less clearance and potentially more resistance. It’s probably negligible, i’m just spitballing. An all forged internal assembly tends to slap and make noises until it’s warmed up because of this too. More clearance cold.

Great group IV or V LNG based pure synthetic lubricants at the right viscosity rating should be good for almost even the most frigid Calgary weather... BUT knowing many of the late 2k vehicles all have phaser based variable valve timing that uses oil pressure... Why "not" plug it in, especially on vehicles with known sensitivities in those valve train (1st gen ecoboost engines, VQs, 5.4 triton even with the updated VCT, VANOS failures)

My T5 volvo for instance has no valve train issue, but its known problems with its PCV (a strange and complex version of one) which benefits at operating all the time at normal operating temp, otherwise it gets clogged and results in problems (also seals)
So whenever I can, I plug it in or keep it in the garage.

[ShermanEF9]

Plugging in is good.

Block heater will warm the coolant and the natural circulation will assist in warming the entire block, heads, Intake and oil.

It’s also preferable from an emissions point of view (if you care).

/Nerd:

Aluminum has a higher coefficient or expansion than cast iron /w aluminum alloy (typical piston material), therefore if left cold the aluminum would “shrink” around the cast causing less clearance and potentially more resistance. It’s probably negligible, i’m just spitballing. An all forged internal assembly tends to slap and make noises until it’s warmed up because of this too. More clearance cold.

I was also going to mention this. Warm coolant = Warm block = expanded clearances = easier starting.

[killramos]

You guys are all wrong you should clearly be storing your vehicles in a climate controlled container with positive pressure preventing any external air from getting in and keep both your oil and coolant heated at all times at exactly peak operating temperature, also who doesn’t have separate heaters for their fuel tank and windshield washer fluid reservoir as well.

Even then you probably shouldn’t even take your vehicles outside, if you do you are just a bad vehicle owner.

This is why hipsters ride bikes and take the bus.

This thread :nut:

Mountains and molehills people.

[Twin_Cam_Turbo]

There are so many benefits to plugging in. Reduced wear on engine, better fuel economy, reduced warm up time and window defrost, oil temps likely to get higher on your drive and that helps burning off condensation and other contaminants in the oil, less emissions.

[Seth1968]

There are so many benefits to plugging in. Reduced wear on engine, better fuel economy, reduced warm up time and window defrost, oil temps likely to get higher on your drive and that helps burning off condensation and other contaminants in the oil, less emissions.

Even though I've always plugged in my vehicles, I began to wonder if it was necessary to do so since the viscosity of the synthetic oil remains unchanged. This of course was under the mistaken belief that the heater heated the oil. Now that I've found out that the stock heater heats the coolant and not the oil, I'll keep plugging in for the exact reasons you and others have posted :thumbsup:

[J-hop]

Even though I've always plugged in my vehicles, I began to wonder if it was necessary to do so since the viscosity of the synthetic oil remains unchanged. This of course was under the mistaken belief that the heater heated the oil. Now that I've found out that the stock heater heats the coolant and not the oil, I'll keep plugging in for the exact reasons you and others have posted :thumbsup:

I’m seeing a ton of misinformation about synthetic oil in this thread. Not sure if this is what you’re getting at but To be clear new synthetic and conventional oil will have roughly the same viscosity curves.

5w-xx full synthetic is like molasses at -30.

[Seth1968]

I’m seeing a ton of misinformation about synthetic oil in this thread. Not sure if this is what you’re getting at but To be clear new synthetic and conventional oil will have roughly the same viscosity curves.

5w-xx full synthetic is like molasses at -30.

Well, I'm clear on the block heater answer, but now confused as to the oil's viscosity at very cold temperatures.

What about this chart that Mitsu posted?

http://highperformancejunkies.com/5w30-oil-comparison/

[HiTempguy1]

Where are you going to plug all that in haha

Thats the joke ;)

Also, to be clear, if it is -30*c or lower (before windchill) 5w30 oil will be like molasses if it is conventional oil. That is bad. Plug your damn car in.

Many of the groupiv and v synthetic oils pour nicely even at that temperature. There is certainly a reason to run synthetics in our weather.

End of the day, as mentioned due to the way the metal of the engine expands and contracts, it just makes sense to plug a vehicle in. Less wear, quicker heat, and 5*c oil temp difference makes a huge change in viscosity at those temps (a block heater left on overnight brings coolant temp from ambient of -30*c to over 0*c, you can bet your ass some of that heat gets to the oil).

[J-hop]

Well, I'm clear on the block heater answer, but now confused as to the oil's viscosity at very cold temperatures.

What about this chart that Mitsu posted?

http://highperformancejunkies.com/5w30-oil-comparison/

As soon as I see amsoil in the mix I apply a large grain of salt to the findings.

However notice Castrol GTX non-synthetic has a pour point between the lower and upper grade fully synthetic amsoil?

His data points are hard to draw any conclusion from as there is so much variability and so few measurement points

Pour point depressants are in all conventional multi grade oils.

Also remember that the lower value in the viscosity rating of multi grade conventional/syntethic oils is measured at 0 degrees F (-18 Celsius) so at that temperature by definition a 5w-30 conventional and syntethic have the same viscosity.

[J-hop]

Thats the joke ;)

Also, to be clear, if it is -30*c or lower (before windchill) 5w30 oil will be like molasses if it is conventional oil. That is bad. Plug your damn car in.

Many of the groupiv and v synthetic oils pour nicely even at that temperature. There is certainly a reason to run synthetics in our weather.

End of the day, as mentioned due to the way the metal of the engine expands and contracts, it just makes sense to plug a vehicle in. Less wear, quicker heat, and 5*c oil temp difference makes a huge change in viscosity at those temps (a block heater left on overnight brings coolant temp from ambient of -30*c to over 0*c, you can bet your ass some of that heat gets to the oil).

Trust me, 5w-40 Castrol syntec does NOT pour nicely at -30.

[JustinL]

There's lots of videos showing the really cold pouring of various oils. Synthetic invariably pours better at really cold temperatures than conventional. Here's one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tYkg0oDUXs8

[Hallowed_point]

^ Yup. In fact, looking at my brothers 2 stroke synthetic oil in his garage it looks like maple syrup.

[firebane]

I wish I could plug one of our cars in... no block heater lol.

[J-hop]

There's lots of videos showing the really cold pouring of various oils. Synthetic invariably pours better at really cold temperatures than conventional. Here's one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tYkg0oDUXs8

If you look in that vid the pour tests aren’t even between the same grades in fact they are very different grades on the low end. You’ll notice the other pour comparisons vids on YouTube are almost all amsoil ads

In this vid He does back up exactly what I’ve said. New conventional and new synthetic of the same viscosity rating will have roughly the same viscosity curves. He also discusses the methods used in conventional oil (pour point depressants and whatever they use for the high temp end) to change the slope of the viscosity gradient with temperature for conventional oil

Now as I mentioned on the previous page I believe, the difference between high mileage synthetic and high mileage conventional is measurable as the additives breakdown. However my point still stands. Of course over the long term synthetics offer much better protection and I personally run syntethic in all my vehicles however the idea that synthetics are magically better in low temps is a bit of a myth

[ExtraSlow]

I began to wonder if it was necessary to do so since the viscosity of the synthetic oil remains unchanged.
No, all oils including every synthetic gets more viscous as temperature decreases.

[Seth1968]

No, all oils including every synthetic gets more viscous as temperature decreases.

Well ya, but it doesn't seem to be a concern at -30 as long as the block heater is used. It seems if it was a concern, then oil pan heaters would be used in conjunction with a coolant heater.

[zieg]

My old Jetta had an oem oil pan heater (and no block heater). Didn't call for synthetic oil though. I think the fact that new cars that use synthetic and come with block heaters is very telling. If nothing else, it seems to help you get warm air from the vents a little quicker, if the block heater is plugged in long enough (note this only applies to the nice 400w BLOCK heaters, not the 75w oil pan heaters).

[Seth1968]

Speaking of which, how many watts is a typical coolant heater? I've read everything from 300 to 1000.

[Tik-Tok]

Trust me, 5w-40 Castrol syntec does NOT pour nicely at -30.

5W40 Castrol Syntec is a blend, not 100% synthetic. Only 0W30 "Made in Germany" Syntec is pure synthetic.

[J-hop]

My old Jetta had an oem oil pan heater (and no block heater). Didn't call for synthetic oil though. I think the fact that new cars that use synthetic and come with block heaters is very telling. If nothing else, it seems to help you get warm air from the vents a little quicker, if the block heater is plugged in long enough (note this only applies to the nice 400w BLOCK heaters, not the 75w oil pan heaters).

VWs are weird ones. At least for the MK4 there was an oem in-line coolant heater but it was an expensive option the dealer installed that almost no one installed. A lot of euros of that era didn’t seem have block heaters.

New vehicles requiring/recommending synthetic spawns from the fact synthetic doesn’t degrade as quickly as conventional and thus over the long term offers much better protection. There are also factors like additives (like detergent) in syntethics outperforming the conventional oils.

- - - Updated - - -


5W40 Castrol Syntec is a blend, not 100% synthetic. Only 0W30 "Made in Germany" Syntec is pure synthetic.

You sure? Bottle and everywhere I read states it’s fully synthetic. It’s called edge now (used to be syntec)

[Tik-Tok]

VWs are weird ones. At least for the MK4 there was an oem in-line coolant heater but it was an expensive option the dealer installed that almost no one installed. A lot of euros of that era didn’t seem have block heaters.

New vehicles requiring/recommending synthetic spawns from the fact synthetic doesn’t degrade as quickly as conventional and thus over the long term offers much better protection. There are also factors like additives (like detergent) in syntethics outperforming the conventional oils.

- - - Updated - - -



You sure? Bottle and everywhere I read states it’s fully synthetic. It’s called edge now (used to be syntec)

Read the fine print on the back, it'll either say "Blended in USA" or "Made in Germany". At least this was the case when I had my Audi a few years ago. May have changed now with the new name.

[J-hop]

Speaking of which, how many watts is a typical coolant heater? I've read everything from 300 to 1000.

Depends on engine size. For reference the older v8 f150s came with 650W standard. F350 Diesels came with 1000-1200W I believe

[Seth1968]

Depends on engine size. For reference the older v8 f150s came with 650W standard. F350 Diesels came with 1000-1200W I believe

Thanks, that makes sense.

My sewing machine engine probably has a 100 watter:)

[J-hop]

Read the fine print on the back, it'll either say "Blended in USA" or "Made in Germany". At least this was the case when I had my Audi a few years ago. May have changed now with the new name.

Will check when I get home, I think I have a bottle of both edge and syntec in my garage. Good to know. But yea people that think a 5wXX syntethic will flow fine at -30 haven’t actually added oil at -30 is my guess haha

[HiTempguy1]

If you look in that vid the pour tests aren’t even between the same grades in fact they are very different grades on the low end. You’ll notice the other pour comparisons vids on YouTube are almost all amsoil ads

In this vid He does back up exactly what I’ve said. New conventional and new synthetic of the same viscosity rating will have roughly the same viscosity curves. He also discusses the methods used in conventional oil (pour point depressants and whatever they use for the high temp end) to change the slope of the viscosity gradient with temperature for conventional oil

Now as I mentioned on the previous page I believe, the difference between high mileage synthetic and high mileage conventional is measurable as the additives breakdown. However my point still stands. Of course over the long term synthetics offer much better protection and I personally run syntethic in all my vehicles however the idea that synthetics are magically better in low temps is a bit of a myth

I can assure you, the brand new 5w30 jug of conventional oil I have barely pours in this weather, regardless of anything you've read on the internet.

I can also assure you, the mobil 1 5w40 and shell 5w40 full synthetics I have pour much easier right now in this -30*C weather.

It is not a "myth". Oil weight rating for oil weight rating, a synthetic typically pours better. There is a reason there are 0w30 conventional oils, but they do not hold up to high heat/high load applications.

[J-hop]

I can assure you, the brand new 5w30 jug of conventional oil I have barely pours in this weather, regardless of anything you've read on the internet.

I can also assure you, the mobil 1 5w40 and shell 5w40 full synthetics I have pour much easier right now in this -30*C weather.

It is not a "myth". Oil weight rating for oil weight rating, a synthetic typically pours better. There is a reason there are 0w30 conventional oils, but they do not hold up to high heat/high load applications.

You’re talking two different topics. Viscosity vs breakdown.

Are you saying at -18, a 5w30 syntethic will pour better than a 5w30 conventional?

[zieg]

But if it pours better, doesn't that mean the viscosity is by definition different? Thereby changing its weight rating?

[HiTempguy1]

You’re talking two different topics. Viscosity vs breakdown.

Are you saying at -18, a 5w30 syntethic will pour better than a 5w30 conventional?

No, I'm stating the reason why people don't just run 0w30 all year round. And 0w30 conventional oils still aren't always as good as a synthetic.

And the answer to your question is it depends. Not all synthetics are synthetic, but yes, a quality 5w30 synthetic will pour better than a conventional.

Zieg, read away
http://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/motoroil_viscosity/

[J-hop]

No, I'm stating the reason why people don't just run 0w30 all year round. And 0w30 conventional oils still aren't always as good as a synthetic.

And the answer to your question is it depends. Not all synthetics are synthetic, but yes, a quality 5w30 synthetic will pour better than a conventional.

Zieg, read away
http://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/motoroil_viscosity/

Not sure if we are just talking past each other or what.

But no, a 5w-30 fully synthetic at -18 will not pour better than a 5w-30 at -18. By definition they have the exact same viscosity (resistance to flow).

That is what Zeig is saying. By definition a 5w-XX flows Like a straight 5 weight oil flows at -18C. If it flows better it cannot be called a 5W-xx. Because by definition it has a different viscosity. End of story

[zieg]

Yeah, exactly. Based on my understanding anyway. If there were a significant difference, I would expect manufacturers to call for one weight of conventional oil and a different weight of synthetic.

I guess there's another possibility: the pour point additives mentioned in that article. But it sounds like that could be added to anything so I wouldn't really consider that as being related to the weight or composure of the oil. Also, the tests only go so low in temperature, so maybe below that temp the difference in pour points could become more obvious?

[J-hop]

Read the fine print on the back, it'll either say "Blended in USA" or "Made in Germany". At least this was the case when I had my Audi a few years ago. May have changed now with the new name.

Spent 10 mins reading the entire bottle. Manufactured in the US but no mention of “blending” (on the edge bottle). Says full synthetic all over it. I can’t find my old bottle of syntec but I’m 100% sure it was just a rebranding as it advertises as “edge (formerly syntec)”.

Would be interested to see where you got this info. A lot of people don’t understand that synthetic is still derived from naturally occurring hydrocarbon chains. About 10 years ago I saw a ton of threads online claiming X brand wasn’t a true synthetic because they used extracted hydrocarbons which wasn’t true it was just ignorance, could have spawned from that.

[Tik-Tok]

Well group III oils are extracted from naturally occurring hydrocarbons, and group IV/V are extracted from synthetic hydrocarbons. So not exactly ignorance, and Castrol 0w30 was the only group IV readily available here in their line-up (again, at the time)

[J-hop]

Well group III oils are extracted from naturally occurring hydrocarbons, and group IV/V are extracted from synthetic hydrocarbons. So not exactly ignorance, and Castrol 0w30 was the only group IV readily available here in their line-up (again, at the time)

Group IV uses PAO base which is synthesized from ethylene which is just another product of hydrocracking crude oil.

The term synthetic is more or less a layman’s term so arguing what is a “true” synthetic in most cases spawns from pure ignorance.

Regardless though, it doesn’t change the fact that viscosity ratings are independent of the base.

Edit: further, if you look at Mobil 1 extended performance (which is apparently another one of the pure Group IV based oils) the 5w-30 actually has a pour point 2 degrees higher than Pennzoil 5w-30 conventional..........

[Twin_Cam_Turbo]

In case anyone was interested, started my car today after being plugged in for 46 hours sitting outside. At start my lowest oil temp was 7 degrees Celsius and my lowest water temp was 14 degrees Celsius.

[phubu]

Does anyone plug their cars inside the garage? Is this pointless or beneficial?

[J-hop]

Does anyone plug their cars inside the garage? Is this pointless or beneficial?

Just battery tenders for my cars in the garage.

Personally I’d be concerned about the potential fire hazard.

[ipeefreely]

Does anyone plug their cars inside the garage? Is this pointless or beneficial?

I've always plugged my cars (parents too) in our detached garage(s). It's not as cold as outside but it's still cold so it helps with a warmer start.


Just battery tenders for my cars in the garage.

Personally I’d be concerned about the potential fire hazard.

:confused: It's just a heater... are you worried about anything in your house that generates heat??

[speedog]

A 4 cylinder car with a good battery should start fine. Bigger engine? Not so much

My 1999 Sierra 5.3 with 516,000km on the original engine starts no problem in this cold weather without being plugged in, I let it warm up while I shovel the walks and load tools.

[J-hop]

I've always plugged my cars (parents too) in our detached garage(s). It's not as cold as outside but it's still cold so it helps with a warmer start.



:confused: It's just a heater... are you worried about anything in your house that generates heat??

What? Google block heater fire and tell me if you feel the same.......

Tons of articles of garage fires caused by block heaters. Also several fire departments asking people to stop plugging their cars in while parked in the garage.

Personal preference though, you don’t have to agree. But I’m not risking burning down my garage, just my preference.....

[Deetz]

I'm a little late to this thread, but here's my opinion.......

I'been driving since 1989, and haven't plugged in since then. Though i'm now on my 90th vehicle right now, i've never found the need to plug in, even with regular oil. It's true, that some makes and models don't start as well in extreme cold, and diesels deff need it. Block heaters use a lot of power, so if paying for it, you'll be paying for it. Never had a car that didn't start in 30 below. I know things change when it gets below 35 though, i'd probably change my opinion quickly, lol

I work in the auto industry, and have never to this day, seen a car come in with a damaged engine due to starting in cold weather. These days, i have a starter, pop the car on 2-3 minutes before i jump in, and good to go.

[Tik-Tok]

Yes, but the untangeable question is: Were some engine failures that didn't happen during a cold start, still caused by years of cold starts.

Also 90 cars in 29 years? You haven't owned one long enough to see premature wear, lol.

[RealJimmyJames]

What about the carbon cost of electric block heaters when the electricity is generated by dirty coal?

[ShermanEF9]

Fire hazard really only exists if your block heater cord is damaged. the heater itself won't start a fire..

[Deetz]

Yes, but the untangeable question is: Were some engine failures that didn't happen during a cold start, still caused by years of cold starts.

Also 90 cars in 29 years? You haven't owned one long enough to see premature wear, lol.

I have held onto a handful of cars, even after 20 years, kept the ones I like,

As mentioned, even working at the dealers, I’ve not seen evidence of damage, or really much in the way of engine failure at all from any makes of car, from cold starting. It’s funny, for as many cars on the road running around, engine failure rate (at least the import dealers I’ve worked for- Honda Acura Toyota and Mercedes), engines are rarely replaced! The ones that usually are, are people who downright abuse their cars being driven hard, running old fluids and not servicing properly. Failure rarely happens unless there is truly something that has failed, but it doesn’t happen often.

I know everyone has an opinion, just sharing mine

[J-hop]

Fire hazard really only exists if your block heater cord is damaged. the heater itself won't start a fire..

Yea block heater, space heater etc the cord is always the weak point.

Especially if someone’s ever driven away with the block heater still plugged in. Surprised at how many people do that and don’t immediately replace the cord, they’re like $20 at ctire....

[Twin_Cam_Turbo]

My car misfired this morning even after being plugged in :(

[Tik-Tok]

Yea block heater, space heater etc the cord is always the weak point.

Especially if someone’s ever driven away with the block heater still plugged in. Surprised at how many people do that and don’t immediately replace the cord, they’re like $20 at ctire....

Most people wouldn't know how to change it, and I'm sure a shop wouldn't charge any less than an hour, and $50 for the cord.

[snowcat]

No one has garages?

[Tik-Tok]

No one has garages?

Not at work I don't.

[revelations]

No one has garages?

Do you not know what an unheated, detached garage is?

[Twin_Cam_Turbo]

No one has garages?

I rent mine out to a tenant and keep my project car in a friend’s garage.

[J-hop]

My car misfired this morning even after being plugged in :(

Which car? If it was a misfire enough to cause a MIL it’s probably worth looking into.

[Twin_Cam_Turbo]

Which car? If it was a misfire enough to cause a MIL it’s probably worth looking into.

2017 WRX. No SESL but it was missing for the first three seconds or so.

[firebane]

All this talk about plugging in and nobody talks about frozen batteries lol. I ended up with two.

[jutes]

No one has garages?

Most people use their garages for storage of an obscene amount of crap. Maybe 50% of the houses in my neighbourhood that have double attached garages are filled to the tits with shit. You'd be lucky to get a small compact car in there.

[J-hop]

All this talk about plugging in and nobody talks about frozen batteries lol. I ended up with two.

I used to go through at least one battery a year, 4 cars and I take transit to work most of the time so the cars just sit.

Last year I bought Noco battery tenders for every car. Never have to worry

[ExtraSlow]

Batteries matter more than oil.

[killramos]

Batteries matter more than oil.

For pure starting performance, +1.

Left my mustang in a snowbank for a week with what i can only imagine is shit ford "the works" oil. Started fine two days ago on first try with no block heater. Wasn't happy about it but it started...

The key? Brand new battery in September.

[NissanFanBoy]

Most people use their garages for storage of an obscene amount of crap. Maybe 50% of the houses in my neighbourhood that have double attached garages are filled to the tits with shit. You'd be lucky to get a small compact car in there.

This says boggles my mind but then again we don't have kids. My wife gets the Juke in on one side and the other sideI keep my Z, I drive the Murano in winter conditions so I park it in my driveway because I'm paranoid about vandalism/theft to my Z.

[Twin_Cam_Turbo]

Most people use their garages for storage of an obscene amount of crap. Maybe 50% of the houses in my neighbourhood that have double attached garages are filled to the tits with shit. You'd be lucky to get a small compact car in there.

It’s amazing how much you can fit in your garage if you organize it properly. I have seen four cars in a attached slightly oversized double with only one hoist, a full size work bench with lathe and english wheel, welder, three complete sets of wheels and tires, engine crane, engine stand, vacuuflow system, general storage and almost another half car in parts on shelves. That’s good use of space right there.

[HiTempguy1]

Not sure if we are just talking past each other or what.

No, you are just plain wrong. The cS measurement of an oils viscosity of a quality synthetic is different than a conventional oils, regardless of whatever crap you've read on the internet. Pour point is an easy, but poor way to show this. Go take a -30*C 5w30 conventional oil, and compare it to a synthetic 5w30 at -30*C. They aren't the same, no matter what you've read.

[Tik-Tok]

Soo, it's pretty could out tonight. Who's going to go out and test it with video?

[J-hop]

Soo, it's pretty could out tonight. Who's going to go out and test it with video?

lol I already had to top up my Jetta with 5w-40 synthetic today, it’s absolute molasses right now

[ipeefreely]

Fire hazard really only exists if your block heater cord is damaged. the heater itself won't start a fire..

That makes more sense to me! :thumbsup:

[RealJimmyJames]

Toasters and curling irons also start fires. Ban cords...

[Tik-Tok]

Toasters and curling irons also start fires. Ban cords...

Can't ban cords, but that's why they have warning labels as big as a CVS receipt attached to them.

[Mostwanted]

Does it matter if you plug in your car even when the batt just died. Had mine sitting outside for a week during the cold snap, car batt is dead will need to jump it, but will it be easier on the motor if i plug it in first?

[ExtraSlow]

If that battery is frozen, bring it indoors, thaw it and then charge it before trying to start the car.