Can a window frame be salvaged off a door?

[Ferio_vti]

Background:
We've got a 2004 Mitsubishi Sportback Station wagon. Last week, in the back alley behind our house is a lumpy sheet of ice.
Unfortunately, with the slope, we slid into a neighbour's flat bed trailer.
My biggest problem is the rear driver door that is damaged. Sheet metal is crumpled. :facepalm:

So I want to know if I can use a door from a regular Lancer sedan and swap window frames.
From what I can see, between the sedan and wagon rear doors, the windows are obviously different, but the sheet metal shell and inner panels are the same.
Exploded parts diagrams don't show this kinda info.

Any info or help would be appreciated.
thanks.

[BerserkerCatSplat]

Window frames are usually part of the stamped sheetmetal door and not swappable without welding and major paint work, unless Mitsus are different than most. What colour? There's a few Sportwagon doors on Car-Part.

[ExtraSlow]

Yeah just swap the entire door.

[G-ZUS]

+1 on swapping whole door, look on car-part. You may get lucky and find one that's same color. If not keep checking!

[mr2mike]

You're lucky it's just the door and not the b-pillar or anything else. Doors are relatively easy to swap compared to pulling a damaged rear fender out and bondo'ing.
Replace door.
Keep your old door until you get the new one. Possibly will need to swap interior panel or power mirrors or stuff like that.

[Abeo]

Picknpull has two: http://row52.com/Vehicle/Index/JA3AD69F14U604186
http://row52.com/Vehicle/Index/JA3AD29F26U606928
Should be about $60 for the entire door (interior panel, glass, everything), see prices here: http://www.picknpull.com/part_pricing.aspx?LocationID=164&NavItem=14&SearchCriteria=&#partpricing

[Ferio_vti]

Wow thanks guys.
I'm surprised anyone sportback parts.
Colour I'm not super concerned about, but if they really have red, that would be great!

[Ferio_vti]

Follow up question when I go to pull the door off the parts car:
should I just cut the wiring on the wiring harness or fish out the connector in the body or inside the door paneling?
I don't want to waste opening panels and shit if I don't have to do a clean removal of the wiring.

[Abeo]

Follow up question when I go to pull the door off the parts car:
should I just cut the wiring on the wiring harness or fish out the connector in the body or inside the door paneling?
I don't want to waste opening panels and shit if I don't have to do a clean removal of the wiring.

The doors I've pulled have a connector on the body side. You may have to pull apart the interior panels to unclip. I strongly advise against cutting the wires (unless it's on the body side of the clip, so that you can undo it at home or wherever)

Also, pick-n-pull means you don't have to do a clean removal of the stuff you don't plan on buying ;)

[mr2mike]

Same here. Usually one of two plugs to unplug right at the kick panel. Pull to door grommet back, so you can pull on the wires a bit to see if you can find which plugs move. Kind of a pain but really, short term pain for a way easier in stall in my opinion.
I'd do that rather than cutting wires and then having to either rewire to your own or swapping the door harness over.

[Ferio_vti]

Also, pick-n-pull means you don't have to do a clean removal of the stuff you don't plan on buying ;)

Yah, I just pulled the paneling on the inside off to access the harness plug. thanks.

So the last part of this job: I have to get the old door off the car, but the damage from the flatbed just clipped the door, just next to the exterior door handle.
In doing so, the door doesn't open.

Should I just rip the door paneling off the inside and access the latch mechanism? I can get to some of the panel screws.
Fortunately, PnP doesn't care how messed up the door is for the core return.

[Abeo]

Yah, I just pulled the paneling on the inside off to access the harness plug. thanks.

So the last part of this job: I have to get the old door off the car, but the damage from the flatbed just clipped the door, just next to the exterior door handle.
In doing so, the door doesn't open.

Should I just rip the door paneling off the inside and access the latch mechanism? I can get to some of the panel screws.
Fortunately, PnP doesn't care how messed up the door is for the core return.

Yup, that's how I'd approach it. You may have to mess a bunch with the rods or the latch mechanism to get it to pop open. Youtube is a good resource to see how the door goes together and works, so that you have an idea before you dig in

[Ferio_vti]

So I got the interior paneling off, rods all look fine.

The thing that seems to be damaged or compromised is the latching and/or the locking unit.
When I unlock the door manually or using power, the lock will unlock but spring back to the lock position.

I tried holding the lock switch open and simultaneous with the door handle to open, but that doesn't work =/

One thing to note, when I do those to actions at once, you don't feel that 'open' click or clunk when the latch should release from the nader bolt.

I feel like I'm gonna have to cut open the sheet metal and get to the latching mechanism... But even then, I don't know if there is much I can do to get the latch to release...