Trailering Noob Advice

[dirtsniffer]

Hey, I am currently looking at moving into the world of towing. No more tenting for us.

Does anyone have good inspection reports or things to look out for when buying a trailer? Lien Check?

Any suggested brands for equalizer hitch?

The plan is to get a 24-26' trailer in the 4000 lbs range.

[ExtraSlow]

I have so many thoughts on this subject it's ridiculous.
First things first, what's the tow vehicle and what cargo /gear/passengers do you normally carry in the tow vehicle? Worry about this before you figure out the trailer.

[dirtsniffer]

2015 silverado 5.3L -3.42 gears - payload is roughly 1650 lbs, maximum towing is 9700.

Passengers (beyond the 150 lbs included in payload) 300 lbs (fatty me, wife, baby)
dog 75 lbs
gas? 140 lbs
gear ~300 lbs

total ~800 lbs. at least 800 lbs of tongue weight. Figured a 4000 lbs trailer would put the tongue weight around 400-600 depending but still some payload capacity there.

I should take the truck to the scale to confirm the exact payload. I should add that the only reason I am this far along is cause of the information you have posted in other threads. so thanks.

[ExtraSlow]

Different trailers have wildly different percentages of total weight as tongue weight. some are as low as 8%, and some are up to 20%. It's really hard to guess.
Also, most people carry more than 300lbs of gear in the truck. for me, once I have a generator, some firewood, a few tools, bikes and a cooler of beer, I'm 500lbs easily.

Go to the scale, it's fun!

Assuming you are looking at used trailers. Haven't ever done a lein check, but I suppose you could. My advice for a first trailer is to get one that's at the lower end of your budget. Most people will eitehr figure out they hate owning a trailer, or decide to get something very different within a few years. So no sense spending a lot of money on this one when you aren't likely to keep it very long.

Best value in used trailers is if you find someone who has made small improvements to it (and is proud to tell you all about them) and can give you some tips about annual maintenance. Act dumb, and if they spend effort teaching you what you need, then that's the kind of guy you want to buy from. Check the manufacturing date code on the tires, and mentally plan on replacing tires around five years of age regardless of visual condition.

I use a cheapie Curt WDH without any kind of sway control. It's been fine for me. There are better systems out there, and they cost more. Check out etrailer website for cheapie prices.

[suntan]

No need for a WDH. Just plop that trailer right on top of the ball. If it sags in the middle, you're good to go.

[HiTempguy1]

No need for a WDH. Just plop that trailer right on top of the ball. If it sags in the middle, you're good to go.

For 4k lbs, I agree, I wouldn't bother, waste of time, money, and makes backing up a pain with certain systems.

Sway control, different story. Even a simple friction system makes a hell of a difference, Princess Auto and Curt have the same units for dirt cheap.

One thing to keep in mind about tongue weights is propane tanks. Those bastards are heavy, and will probably be on the tongue.

[dirtsniffer]

Went and weighed myself and the truck. More than I thought so I guess that's good. I think with some conservative numbers I am still alright with a 4000 lb trailer. Truck was weighed with myself and almost a full tank of gas. I do want sway control. Though I thought it went with a weight distributing hitch. My BIL sent me some info on a blue ox sway pro, seems legit.

81677

I am budgeting around $10K for a trailer, not sure I really want to go less than that. Body or hail damage is fine though. As I am sure I will run this into a tree or two (best case). The wife and I both grew up camping, but we have been tenting as adults. So comfortable in the fact that camping is a part of how we want to raise our kid(s).

[HiTempguy1]

Went and weighed myself and the truck. More than I thought so I guess that's good. I think with some conservative numbers I am still alright with a 4000 lb trailer. Truck was weighed with myself and almost a full tank of gas. I do want sway control. Though I thought it went with a weight distributing hitch. My BIL sent me some info on a blue ox sway pro, seems legit.

You don't need a blue ox pro, and after extensive research, nobody can provide any definitive proof the "expensive" setups somehow work anybetter.

I tow 14k lb enclosed car trailer fully loaded with this setup all over the country. Dirt cheap.

https://www.amazon.ca/17422-Weight-Distribution-Hitch-Complete/dp/B00FLXTNFY/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1522959583&sr=8-7&keywords=17422

Your's with the proper weight would be this lighter model:
https://www.amazon.ca/17345-Trunnion-Weight-Distribution-Hitch/dp/B00F9X6ZVQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522959812&sr=8-1&keywords=curt+17345

Then add a CURT/Princess Auto friction sway control for $60-$80.

https://www.curtmfg.com/part/17200

Call it a day. No need to waste money just because... unless you want to.

[dirtsniffer]

haha nope can't say i need so spend extra money. Happy to save $500.

Any advice on buying a trailer is still appreciated.

[spikerS]

please, disregard Suntan's and HiTemps first posts. A WD hitch is the smart way to go for any 1/2 ton truck that is pulling a holiday trailer over 19' IMO. Having a properly setup hitch and trailer to keep everything level is 100% the smart way to go. If you are sagging in at the hitch, you risk catching that low point and causing damage, especially in campgrounds or campsites that have any kind of uneven terrain. Keeping things level stops un-neccessary bouncing while at speed, and keeps better pressure on your steering axle. Additionally, never count on the dry weight as you will NEVER be at that weight. By the time you add propane tank(s), Battery(ies), all your camping essentials that usually never leave the trailer like cutlery, pots/pans, camp chairs, bathroom supplies, etc, you will always be well in excess of that weight, and you will be surprised by how much.

Many people subscribe to not exceeding 80% of the tow vehicle's capacity for towing. While it is no rule, there is some smart thought in that. Your vehicle may have a redline of 10k RPM, but you very rarely have it there except in extreme sircumstances, but you never ride it there all the time. I personally like that school of though, so, if I were in your shoes, I would not be looking at a setup that would never be more than 7500 lbs fully loaded with everything you might bring, and a full tank of water, but again, just my $0.02.

I would also advise to get a trailer brake controller if you don't already have one, and make sure that it is easily accesible during normal driving conditions. If you end up with a fishtailing situation, you want to be able to grab that manual trailer brake lever and apply the trailer brakes to help stop that. Also, a normal 10k WD hitch will supply all the anti-sway you will probably need unless you end up with a significantly longer trailer. I mean, it doesn't hurt to have a stand alone anti sway bar, but I have never been in a position that I wished I had one while towing. But they are cheap, so, if you are more comfortable having one, it won't hurt anything by having it.

When buying a used trailer, inspect it just as you would a used car. Bring it to an RV dealership and have them go over it. Also, look at the roof seams from the inside and around windows, vents, and the A/C unit for water damage. If you see any, I would probably walk away. once water starts getting in, things go bad pretty quick and it is a headache you don't want to deal with.

figure on replacing batteries and propane tanks when purchasing a used trailer, as well as needing to do an axle service as well and might as well replace the wheel bearings at the same time. As extraslow said, you will probably be replacing the trailer tires pretty quick too as they are pretty sensitive to UV and breakdown way faster then motor vehicle tires.

[ExtraSlow]

With a trailer that light, you can have a very basic WD setup. Until you get into things like Hensley or Propride, all the basic ones work about the same. I have a Curt one very similar to that one linked by HiTemp, and have had no issues. No anti-sway device on mine, haven't needed it.

when looking at trailers, keep in mind that lightweight models often make design or construction compromises that mean they are slightly less durable. So a heavier trailer is sometimes just what you want. In terms of difficulty towing, SIZE of trailer makes more difference than weight anyway. a thirty footer is a lot worse in wind than a 19 footer, even if they were exactly the same weight.

If you can, it's worth figuring out the size of the fresh, grey and black tanks on trailers you are considering. Bigger tanks make life easier. It's worth knowing the age of the propane tanks too. Not that expensive to get them re certified, but nice when you don't have to.

- - - Updated - - -


figure on replacing batteries and propane tanks when purchasing a used trailer, as well as needing to do an axle service as well and might as well replace the wheel bearings at the same time. As extraslow said, you will probably be replacing the trailer tires pretty quick too as they are pretty sensitive to UV and breakdown way faster then motor vehicle tires.
If you do get the trailer inspected, make sure they inspect all four brakes! probbaly half the trailers on the road have either a) poorly adjusted brakes or b) leaking axle/bearing seals that have contaminated the brakes with grease.

Or just plan to replace all that yourself. If you are mechanical it's not that hard and parts are cheap online. I've never paid for an inspection, but I'm like that.

I wouldn't "figure" on replacing the propane tanks or batteries, but it can be required sometimes. Propane tanks and tires are stricktly a factor of age. Batteries can last nearly forever is taken care of, but thier lives are very short if abused.

[suntan]

Yes I'm just kidding. I did however see some doofus last year at the Petro-Canada 22X that did just that - a 25 footer on a ball. Nothing else. Fucker didn't even have a brake controller. At least he had the chains on.

[HiTempguy1]

please, disregard Suntan's and HiTemps first posts. A WD hitch is the smart way to go for any 1/2 ton truck that is pulling a holiday trailer over 19' IMO.

I never said anything about NOT having a WD hitch. I clearly say DO have one.

I also say that sway control is NOT necessary. I didn't feel the need to explain to him why having a WD hitch typically negated the need for sway control.

YOU SHOULD NOT, ABSOLUTELY, POSITIVELY NOT OVERSIZE YOUR WD HITCH SETUP. THIS FUCKS WITH THINGS AND CAN NEGATIVELY AFFECT HANDLING. You do NOT use a 10k WD setup (with the trunions being for the expected tongue weight) on a lighter setup. You also don't undersize them.

Jesus.

[spikerS]

I wouldn't "figure" on replacing the propane tanks or batteries, but it can be required sometimes. Propane tanks and tires are stricktly a factor of age. Batteries can last nearly forever is taken care of, but thier lives are very short if abused.

I say figure on it as batteries are very rarely taken care of properly, and most trailers in the $10k range are going to be more than 5 years old, so if you go in assuming you will have to replace them and factor in those costs, it is not a surprise when you have to and a pleasant surprise if you don't.

[ExtraSlow]

YOU SHOULD NOT, ABSOLUTELY, POSITIVELY NOT OVERSIZE YOUR WD HITCH SETUP. THIS FUCKS WITH THINGS AND CAN NEGATIVELY AFFECT HANDLING. You do NOT use a 10k WD setup (with the trunions being for the expected tongue weight) on a lighter setup. You also don't undersize them. Yes, you need the right "strength" of bars for the WD setup. Don't get too big or it'll never work right and can be terribly dangerous.

- - - Updated - - -


I say figure on it as batteries are very rarely taken care of properly, and most trailers in the $10k range are going to be more than 5 years old, so if you go in assuming you will have to replace them and factor in those costs, it is not a surprise when you have to and a pleasant surprise if you don't.
True story bro. In the end, a lot of people invest in a decent invertor generator and just give up on having a "decent" battery setup.

[spikerS]

I never said anything about NOT having a WD hitch. I clearly say DO have one.



just sayin' LOL


No need for a WDH. Just plop that trailer right on top of the ball. If it sags in the middle, you're good to go.


For 4k lbs, I agree, I wouldn't bother, waste of time, money, and makes backing up a pain with certain systems.

[dirtsniffer]

My plan is to have a WD hitch. Anyone provide a ballpark cost on batteries / axle and brake service?

I am thinking a private sale should be at least $2,000 cheaper than the dealer which would have inspected these things. Also have been told to check the awning and the seals around anything on the roof.

Also, any way to approximate hitch weight on a trailer?

[suntan]

Batteries range from $120 to sky's the limit.

Note that unless you're always boondocking, your battery might not get much use. Lots of nice campgrounds have at least electricity. Also you can't run things like your microwave and AC on just battery.

Don't take to a dealership for inspection. Take it to an RV repair place.

[spikerS]

if you can get the model number of the trailer you can usually google it. Also, most trailers have that info on the trailer tag mounted inside one of the trailer cupboards, or on a yellow tag on the door jam on the main entrance door.

[ExtraSlow]

If there's specific ones you are looking at, pm me the advert or post it. I love thinking about trailers.

[dirtsniffer]

pm'd #paranoid

[ExtraSlow]

PM'ed back - lol.
Anyway, on trailers that are around ten years old, condition make a big difference. if you are buying something with brand new tires and some obvious upgrades or recent documented maintenance, you can save yourself a lot of headaches. Or if the unit doesn't have those things, it's easy to handle them yourself, but you need to know that going in. Five tires, two batteries, and recertifying two 30# propane tanks can make the first summer pretty expensive. Although if you save a couple grand on the unit, that pays off too . . . .

Luckily most stuff on a trailer can be handled yourself. they are easier to work on than trucks.

[suntan]

There's no such thing as a un-repaired RV once it leaves the lot. Maybe even before. Drive near Wild Mountain RV Service in Springbank. Old, new, big, small... Mostly water leaks somewhere...

[HiTempguy1]

just sayin' LOL

Yes, in regards to a theoretical 4k trailer, not the much heavier ones you guys started talking about. I don't even think they make WD hitches that light, so one, its a waste of money, and two, it can actually have a negative affect on handling. At that point, put lightduty airbags in if the rear is sagged to much and run 10 or 15 psi in them.

Also, one of the best towing/riding/handling vehicles I've ever ran was a 1993 K1500 with lightduty airbags with 20psi in them towing a 7k lb trailer. Rock solid, zero sway, great ride. Basically, follow the manufacturers recommendations, if at a certain weight they say you need a WD, get a WD. Size it right. Done.

[ExtraSlow]

I don't think he's going to end up with a 4000lb trailer. The one he sent me was GVWR of 6000lbs, and my rule of thumb is that until you have it fully loaded and have run across the scale, assume it'll be at GVWR.

Check all the auctions too. A few trailers have show up in the searches I've been doing for trucks.

[dirtsniffer]

Here's hoping it's not 6000 lb loaded. That would probably be outside what I could tow.

Some of these trailers listed I see as 'half ton towable' are hilarious.

[ExtraSlow]

Anything under 13000lbs is "half ton towable according to the marketing materials and salespeople.

[spikerS]

Anything under 13000lbs is "half ton towable according to the marketing materials and salespeople.

Right?

My truck is rated for something like 10,300 lbs, but I don't think I would be comfortable towing anything over like 7500-8000 tops.

[ExtraSlow]

The heavy end of half ton tow ratings is a little misleading because usually half tons will run out of payload way before.

With 800 lbs of gear, and 12% tongue weight from a 10,000lb trailer, your truck needs to be rated for 2000lbs of payload. As far as I know, no half-ton crew cab 4x4 is rated for that much.

Moving around your load, leaving a few things behind, setting up you WDH really carefully CAN have you pulling that much in a safe and controlled manner, but it's a chore to get to that point.

And I'll reiterate that weight isn't even the biggest issue. I'd rather pull a 10,000 lb 26' trailer than a 6000lb 30' trailer.

[dirtsniffer]

Ended up picking up a 2006 Jayco hybrid. "3500 lbs" dry 4500 GVWR. Weighed empty really close to the 3500 lbs. Came with a solar set up and weight distributing hitch.

http://i66.tinypic.com/2czey6a.png

Didn't go all out with weighing it, but first try with the set up had me retain almost all of the weight on the front axle.


http://i67.tinypic.com/eit4m1.png

[ExtraSlow]

Very cool. Those little hybrids are a nice choice and should tow beautifully. When's the first trip?

[ExtraSlow]

There's also another forum with really helpful information for that brand of trailer. I don't think I'm supposed to link to other forums, but lays just say it's the forum for Jayco owners.

[dirtsniffer]

I think we will be waiting until the second week of June. Not sure where to yet. Maybe south east of Calgary where it's a little warmer.

[ExtraSlow]

Check out the camping thread for campground suggestions. Also note all reservable provincial site will be full for every weekend all summer, so if you want those start reserving asap.

[dirtsniffer]

thanks, planning on booking a few trips this weekend. Also looking at getting the 3 burner camp chefs stove from Costco with the larger griddle from cabelas (on sale right now). Also trying to figure out what tools and equipment i should always have with me and whether or not i need the ramps to do side to side levelling. saw these in the trailering thread. Not sure how much cheaper i could accomplish the same thing for.

https://andersenhitches.com/Products/3604--camper-leveler.aspx

Andersen Camper Leveler 3604 https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B001GC2LVM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_dOq5AbS5FN5N7

[ExtraSlow]

The camp chef stoves are amazing. And I just bought that two burner griddle from Cabela's. I've never seen a better price.

The first tip is to find out what tools you need to remove your spare tire. On my first trailer, it took a different socket size than the light nuts.

[dirtsniffer]

just ordered some stablizer pads. some levellers from camco, the camp chef griddle. Going to costco in the morning to get the camp chef denali, apparently it may be cheaper in store.

I forgot to look at the trailer when I bought it to see if there was a quick connect for the propane. Guess I will find out soon enough. I assume that the tubing is easy to find for the grill. How hard would it be to add that connection if it is not there?

Also the trailer was winterized, and I do not know what I should be doing to get it ready for the season.

:D Thanks for all the help

[ExtraSlow]

Dewinterizing is simple. Just run water through all the lines until you don't see pink. Or longer. Flush the lines you plan in drinking from really well.

If the trailer has no quick connect, just use a spare 20lb propane tank for the first few trips.

- - - Updated - - -

Let me know how much that camp chef is. I may have a neighbour who needs one.

[speedog]

Seems as good place to put these two pictures I took of a truck/trailer setup I saw this afternoon at the Deerfoot City Canadian Tire. Two women in the truck, no sign of anyone else but the setup looks quite bad to me and I'm not a trailer guy by any means. Ram 1500, I have a second picture but the back of truck as really weighed down and the front of trailer as well - the hitch point was no more than 7 inches above the pavement.

81864

[speedog]

81865

[ExtraSlow]

Absolute perfection.

[4WARNED]

holy cripe.....one good road bump on the front end of that truck, the steering goes light (if not airborne) and those two women will be white knuckling it straight into the ditch.
how can any sane person think that's a properly hooked up trailer?

[dirtsniffer]

haha well thanks guys for helping me avoid a similair situation! that trailer looks dangerous AF.

[ShermanEF9]

That looks like no WDH/ or poorly setup WDH, and a trailer too heavy for the truck. thats level 99 scary right there. I really hope when they hit the ditch, they don't take anyone with them.

[speedog]

They also had a pair of propane tanks in the back of the truck behind the rear wheels, bigger than 20 pounders for sure and if full that would just upset things even more.

To my inexperienced eye, it just looks like way too much trailer for that truck. I would've liked to have gotten a closer look but it just wasn't possible without being obvious.

I'm not the trailer expert that ExtraSlow is but it appears to be an early-mid 1990's Dutchmen Classic, probably about 35 feet long, gross dry weight just under 6,000 pounds, gross dry hitch weight at about 900 pounds. I really can't say what year/type of Dodge Ram it was other than being a 1500 series but the appearance of the whole setup would seem to indicate too much trailer for that truck.

[ShermanEF9]

That is straight up terrifying.

[dirtsniffer]

Took the family and trailer out for the first time. Only thing missing from the trailer was firewood and 30 gallons of water. It looks like I will be right at the limit with those added in. Crazy to think that I started out with a 3500 lb trailer. Guess my payload is somewhat limited especially once you add in the tonneau cover and running boards. I think the F150 has higher payload but I have to think there are tons of guys out there running over the limit. Drove back from Brooks yesterday with some serious wind and everything was great.

http://i64.tinypic.com/263vtxi.png

http://i65.tinypic.com/kboiv7.png

http://i63.tinypic.com/2v2eff6.jpg

[ExtraSlow]

Sure you are up against payload and gvw, but that's actually how most guys with half tons end up. Yiur steering axle weight looks good, and you say it pulls good, even in wind, so I wouldn't worry too much.

Glad it's going good, enjoy these memories, it's my favourite family activity.

[SOAB]

just looking at your weights, it seems like alot of tongue weight for a trailer of that size?

assuming that the truck weight without trailer is with you and your gear, family, etc. the trailer added on almost 1200lbs and the trailer axles are carrying less that 4000lbs.

[Kloubek]

I bought a used trailer recently and discovered that the PO had cut all the wires to the brakes. I can only assume he did so because the brakes were seizing. Now it's in the shop and I'm expecting a hefty bill to replace the wiring plus service the brakes.

I decided to post, however, as I thought it was pretty funny: As soon as the guy at the RV place came out, he's like... "You drove it here like that?" "Yup... I did". The reason he mentioned something is because the trailer was already riding way too high on the hitch and with a recent lift I put on my Grand Cherokee, it was at least 6" if not 8-9" too high in the front. I'm not going to lie... it felt like crap to tow, and when I went over bumps it was real unstable. So in addition to the brakes, I'll now have to pick up a really long drop shank to get the trailer even.

Pay to play.

[redline]

I want to pics of this towing ����

[dirtsniffer]

just looking at your weights, it seems like alot of tongue weight for a trailer of that size?

assuming that the truck weight without trailer is with you and your gear, family, etc. the trailer added on almost 1200lbs and the trailer axles are carrying less that 4000lbs.

http://i65.tinypic.com/kboiv7.png

With just me in the truck and the trailer empty the tongue weight was ~500 lbs. Still had full propane and battery on the tongue. I will definitely be shifting some things from the truck bed to the trailer. That said, the trailer is definitely tongue heavy, from my understanding that can be a benefit for stability?


Also, the camp chef stove is great. I had buddies wanting to use it every morning haha.

[ExtraSlow]

http://i65.tinypic.com/kboiv7.png

With just me in the truck and the trailer empty the tongue weight was ~500 lbs. Still had full propane and battery on the tongue. I will definitely be shifting some things from the truck bed to the trailer.
At least keep the heaviest items ahead of the axle in the truck.

All my trailers had the bulk of the storage space pretty far forward, so it ends up as extra tongue weight AND rear axle weight.

[stillworking]

Hope you don't mind me piggybacking on your n00b thread OP.

I'm close to pulling the trigger on Desert Fox toyhauler if everything checks out. This trailer is 7800 lbs empty with a max weight of 13,000lbs.

According to Ford my F150 has 2534 lbs of payload, and 10,600 lbs max trailer, I'll probably pick it up dry with my half ton and see how it is.

Luckily I have easy access to heavy duty trucks which might be the way to go...

My biggest concern is making sure the trailer is in good working order with no problems.

I've never bought a trailer trailer before, so would any one care to enlighten me on their used travel trailer purchasing routine?

There is already some good advice here regarding batteries/propane tanks/tires/bearings. What about fridges/furnaces/air conditioners/water pumps/stoves/ovens/holding tanks...?

[ExtraSlow]

Toy haulers are insanely nose-heavy when there's nothing in the garage, so count on 20% tongue weight. Also if that 7800lbs is a published "dry" weight you will be several hundred pounds more than that before you add and cargo, fluids or toys. Get a real scale weight.

Loaded down, that trailer is too much for ANY half-ton. Even empty it'll be borderline. You will almost certainly be over the truck payload

[redline]

^^^ i agree, i would not pull that with a 1/2 ton. My trailer is 5800 dry with a max of 8200 it is boardline for my truck.

[dirtsniffer]

Damn 2500 lb payload. Jelly

[redline]

According to Ford my F150 has 2534 lbs of payload, and 10,600 lbs max trailer, I'll probably pick it up dry with my half ton and see how it is
..?

Is that on the sticker for your truck?

I have to admit I am not a f150 expert but I don’t think any screw will come close to that payload... it would have to be a 2wheel drive base model truck with 6.5 foot box min ...

[stillworking]

I bought a used trailer recently and discovered that the PO had cut all the wires to the brakes. I can only assume he did so because the brakes were seizing. Now it's in the shop and I'm expecting a hefty bill to replace the wiring plus service the brakes.


Damn that sucks.

82342

Mine has the heavy duty payload package (HDPP) which gives 7850#GVW and upgraded tires/rims/springs/frame/gearset/3.73 ratio/... The only one in Alberta I could find at the time.

Fully loaded, no doubt I will use a Duramax to pull it around. With just fluids and some cargo I would be tempted to give it a go if I'm within the Ford published limits (IDK if the company would be happy if I took a truck to Shambhala).

As ExtraSlow suggests, if it all works out, I will spend some incremental time at the scales.

Can anyone suggest any other threads with travel trailer buying advice?

[ExtraSlow]

What about fridges/furnaces/air conditioners/water pumps/stoves/ovens/holding tanks...?not much to check, if it works when you do the walk-through and nothing leaks, it's all reasonably reliable.

[SOAB]

Hope you don't mind me piggybacking on your n00b thread OP.

I'm close to pulling the trigger on Desert Fox toyhauler if everything checks out. This trailer is 7800 lbs empty with a max weight of 13,000lbs.

According to Ford my F150 has 2534 lbs of payload, and 10,600 lbs max trailer, I'll probably pick it up dry with my half ton and see how it is.

Luckily I have easy access to heavy duty trucks which might be the way to go...

My biggest concern is making sure the trailer is in good working order with no problems.

I've never bought a trailer trailer before, so would any one care to enlighten me on their used travel trailer purchasing routine?

There is already some good advice here regarding batteries/propane tanks/tires/bearings. What about fridges/furnaces/air conditioners/water pumps/stoves/ovens/holding tanks...?

i think you'll have the payload to haul that trailer but the tongue weight will be the issue. as said, toy haulers generally have more tongue weight because they anticipate you loading up the storage space behind the axles with your toys.

a dry trailer weight of 7800lbs will probably have almost 1600lbs of tongue weight. that is way over the load rating of your hitch. in fact, i have yet to find a class 5 hitch available for the F150.

lets say you load up the back of the trailer with toys, load all your stuff into the trailer up to your 10,600 lbs limit. assuming you were able to get your tongue weight down to 12-15% of that weight, you're still over the rating of your hitch.

if i had that type of payload, i would consider a fifth wheel over a conventional travel trailer. although a fifth wheel toy hauler would be too much for your F150.

[stillworking]

i think you'll have the payload to haul that trailer but the tongue weight will be the issue. as said, toy haulers generally have more tongue weight because they anticipate you loading up the storage space behind the axles with your toys.


I crawled under the truck and you are correct. Max tongue weight for the factory hitch is 1100lbs. Thanks.

Also had a read last night on threads concerning WDH and others back to ES's first travel trailer. Interesting that Cos edited all his posts to periods.

[ExtraSlow]

I have a lot of thought on half tons, payload, and wd hitches. Will discuss in person if you want. I have expended a lot of energy on this topic..

[ExtraSlow]

Ran my trailer across the scales today. With family, firewood, generator, I have 900 pounds of stuff in my truck PLUS 1000 lbs of tongue weight. Bigger kids and more gear and I'd be another 200 lbs at least.

[dirtsniffer]

Your trailer must be pretty big. I remember seeing s thread somewhere on it.

[ExtraSlow]

Your trailer must be pretty big. I remember seeing s thread somewhere on it.
7100 lbs or so.

[dirtsniffer]

Looks like I'll need a new battery. Leaning towards an AGM. Seems like the added benefit of additional cycles, deeper discharges, and faster recharging makes it a worthy upgrade over an flooded cell. Thoughts? Not looking to spend 500+ on a 6v setup.

Thoughts? Any Brand better than another?

[ExtraSlow]

I have heard that not all converters can handle AGM.
Also, are Costco 6v batteries that much? Haven't priced any out in years but would have guessed lower.

My very old Trojan 6v batteries are slowly dying, but even at partial capacity they last us three nights if we don't need the furnace much. I can run generator for an hour to top up, so no big hassle. One day I'll replace.

[dirtsniffer]

Costco 6v are only $150 it turns out. Going to pick some up. Need to figure out the mounting situation

[ExtraSlow]

Costco 6v are only $150 it turns out. Going to pick some up. Need to figure out the mounting situation

A pair of noco snap top boxes?

[ThePenIsMightier]

This may seem to contradict my posts within last 10 min regarding towing but these clowns in half tons going up Roger's Pass need to go die in a fire. Just keep the flashers on when the passing lanes come and let all 27 of us blow past you. Fuck! I started perfecting the "pass on right because I'm a cunt but you're too stupid and self-centered to breath my air" technique. I get by minimum 6-8 cars at WOT and then cut into left to pass the actual slow-ass MF in front. Rinse & repeat.
That passing lane is for everyone. Not just the ONE guy in his Sienna who's immediately stuck behind Johnny F-150 pulling a rail car up the mountains.

[dirtsniffer]

A pair of noco snap top boxes?

Seems like they'll work fine. CT and princess auto don't have them. Any idea where to find them locally?

[ExtraSlow]

Battery Express or hobo camper country? They were cheapest from Amazon with prime shipping last year.