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Khyron
03-31-2004, 04:05 PM
So I bought a jug of oil and a filter but I'm not sure how to go about changing the oil on my 98 ZX6R. I remember reading that it was a bitch but if anyone can tell me what I need to remove I'll give it a shot (I've taken my faring off before). I also got a new air filter cause I'm pretty sure my current one is at least 20 months old.

Last time I took it to Blackfoot on the Saturday oil change, I waited 5-6 hours before it was ready.

Thx!

Khyron

Neons4life
03-31-2004, 08:57 PM
umm, so easy. find filter and remove, find oil drain plug, and remove, drain oil.
put plug back in, put new oil filter back on. and fill with oil checking frequently that you didn't over fill it.

you might need to take off the right side fairing to get to everything, also recommend getting a oil filter wrench, or cap.

make sure it's motorcycle oil, NOT CAR OIL

Khyron
03-31-2004, 09:08 PM
Drain it first then remove the filter right? I'm just curious why my bike is supposed to be much harder than most - I'm hoping there's nothing stupid like removing gas tank to get at the filter. The manual shows the drain plug but it says "If the filter needs changing, get an authorized Kawa dealer to do it".

I bought 4 liters of motul 10-40 semi synth.

Khyron

knees scrapin'
03-31-2004, 10:23 PM
Super easy. The drain ill be in the lowest portion of the oil pan. No need to remove fairings for that. The filter is usually more difficult, befind the header in a tight spot.
Get a small size filter wrench it will make your life alot easier.

I changed ny buddies oil ina 99 kawi last fall, wasn't really dificult at all. Just my 0.02$.:)

Ducati
04-01-2004, 06:30 PM
The Cup Style filter removal wrench works great for that Kawi oil filter. Use the best oil you can afford, and fill it up to halfway between the marks on the sight glass.
If memory serves me right, oil level on that bike is checked via a Sight Glass window, rather than a dipstick. I have not owned that particular bike, but they are always either site glass or screw in dipstick.
Do Not overfill a bike. You do not want too much oil in the crankcase or you will get Oil Cavitation when you ride, an ugly occurence that could have disastrous consequenses.

CrisVA
04-04-2004, 12:42 PM
Or if you overfill a bike, the pressure from the oil could be enough to blow a headgasket. Fun stuff!

And yes, drain first, then the oil filter. There will still be some oil in the filter, so cover the bottom of your headers. Worse that happens if you get oil on em is that it till burn off the first time you start it up.

Khyron
04-04-2004, 12:49 PM
Great thanks guys, I got a filter cup thing so that should make it things easier. Turns out I have to take the tank shroud off to get at the air filter anyway so I'll just keep taking shit apart till I get to the oil filter. :D

How tight do you put it on? Is it alright to just hand tighen real tight or does it need to be torqued on?

Thanks!

Khyron

CrisVA
04-04-2004, 12:58 PM
My bike is something like 15 lbs torqued, but for something with that small of a number, I usually put the filter on hand tight, and then do 1/8 of a turn with a ratchet.

RiCE-DaDDy
04-04-2004, 07:34 PM
Hey we should have a Oil change meet!!! i havent changed my oil before too!!! and ducati can be our teacher :D oh nm, he's in vancouver

Ducati
04-04-2004, 11:39 PM
The biggest pain in the ass with changing oil in sportbikes is all the ABS body panels you have to take off and put back on.

I have all of that shit on my Duc. It was all held on with allen head bolts, from the factory. I bought a kit that uses Dzus fasteners. That makes whipping body panels off & putting them back on a breeze.
Cost me about $100 for the fastener kit, back in 1998. I also had to buy a small rivet gun to install the dzus-pin receptor inserts in place. Now it comes off & goes back on with a simple twist.

The actual drain, filter R&R & refill is the easy part.

Khyron
04-06-2004, 08:10 PM
http://www.nexus-point.net/chimera/bike-naked1.jpg

I know I didn't need to take everything off but there was nasty crap everywhere so might as well give a good cleaning. I bought a new air filter from blackfoot but they gave me the wrong one. My existing one was disgusting but looks ok after I washed it. It's not ripped or frayed, but it is probably 4-5 years old. Should I still get a new one? (Man our bikes suck up a lot of wasps).

Also, my coolant was almost all gone - I read in the manual it's just 50/50 green stuff. Anything wrong with using crappy tire or walmart green?

Finally - anything else I should inspect/check while I have everything off? I checked forks, brakes, etc for leakes or cracking hoses and everything looks pretty spiffy.

Thanks!

Khyron

Masta Dz17
04-06-2004, 08:26 PM
it wont take you long at all, good luck

Khyron
04-06-2004, 10:41 PM
Argh. Not only is Motul impossible for a newb to open (I ended up using bolt cutters, no shit), I started to strip the drain plug! I set my torque wrench to 12 to be safe (manual says 15) and it was turning too easy. Redid it with a hand ratchet and it's snug but not super tight. Am I screwed?

Khyron

bookem
04-06-2004, 11:20 PM
Originally posted by Khyron
Also, my coolant was almost all gone - I read in the manual it's just 50/50 green stuff. Anything wrong with using crappy tire or walmart green?

Khyron

You can buy pre-mixed 50/50 from just about anywhere these days for less than $10. If not, i have no idea where to find distilled water for mixing (and no, it's not the same as boiled water)

EDIT: you might also want to check your clutch and throttle cable slack. You can also do it with everything back on, but it might be easier to get at everything this way. Wouldn't hurt to lube your cables as well.

Ducati
04-12-2004, 08:38 PM
Originally posted by Khyron
Argh. Not only is Motul impossible for a newb to open (I ended up using bolt cutters, no shit), I started to strip the drain plug! I set my torque wrench to 12 to be safe (manual says 15) and it was turning too easy. Redid it with a hand ratchet and it's snug but not super tight. Am I screwed?

Khyron

Maybe - try using Teflon tape on the drainplug and watch for seepage daily. I don't think oil or heat will cause the teflon to degrade.
If you did strip the drain plug youre going to have to have the drain hole reamed out with a thread repair tool and helicoiled.

Khyron
04-12-2004, 08:52 PM
No seepage, but no severe riding yet either. My torque wrench is a craftsman thing that goes from 5 to 80ish with the dial in the handle - wtf went wrong? I was going to use it on my car for plugs and lugs but not until I know what's wrong with it (or what I did wrong).

Khyron

Ducati
04-12-2004, 09:14 PM
I cant see that you did anything wrong. Even pro's strip threads on occasion. Your posts indicate that you have more than two clues to rub together, so I am sure you did not try tightening the plug beyond its' recommended torque, and your wrench is an excellent brand. Maybe its just "one of those things" that happens.
Is the bike new? Could it have been previous damage?

I have made worse mistakes on more than a few occasions. Just last week I did something really dumb and nearly burnt my garage down.

Khyron
04-12-2004, 09:35 PM
Bike was used, and Blackfoot has done every change since. I'm thinking maybe since I didn't use the gasket/washer (it fell in the drain pan - didn't see it) , the torque required was less than if I'd used it. I guess I'll know for sure on my next change (won't need to do filter). And I'll put the gasket back on then. :banghead:

Khyron