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sabad66
06-27-2004, 08:31 AM
Hey, sorry for the noob question, but can someone please tell me exactly what an "engine flush" is. Is it just an oil change or is there more to it?
Thanks

autobodygal
06-27-2004, 10:11 AM
It's more than an oil change, it's when they flush a "solution" through your engine to clean out deposits that are left behind even when an oil change is done. Don't know what they charge in Calgary for one, but they range 80-120 bux here. You can buy over the counter engine flushes that you add when you change the oil if you do it yourself. I don't know how well they work, never tried one.

Daxin
06-27-2004, 11:43 PM
Firstly, ask yourself why you might need an engine flush? Do you change your oil every 5K km? Is your oil getting darker sooner then before?

If you are changing your oil regularly, you don't have to flush your engine. I believe most places charges $100 to $120 here in Calgary. If you don't have any problems, you don't need an engine flush, your just throwing your money away.

If you do want to flush out your engine, go out to Walmart and find 0W40 oil and a cheap new filter. You can also get some kind of additive that is meant for flushing engines, but personally, I think they do nothing or more harm. Drain out your old oil and filter and fill er up with 0W40 and idle the car for 20 mins. DO NOT DRIVE, just idle. Drain the oil and fill her up with your favorite brand and a new filter. You have a cheaper method of flushing your engine.

The $100 method is something like this engine flush (http://www.redwoodgeneral.com/flush.htm)

Hope this helps.

Tyler883
06-30-2004, 11:20 PM
I've used the $5 engine flush that you buy in stores. It will turn your oil into a very thin 'soup', which is kinda scarey.

The directions almost always warn you NOT to drive your car while the additive is in your engine. I sure that an engine idling without any load for 15 minutes with the flush in it does not cause any harm too it. In fact, your info commercials love to run engines with no oil at much higher loads, and much higher rpms....obviously, I'm not recommending that you copy the comercials.

As far as using a 0W40 as a flush, I don't see why it has to be a 0W40. In fact, if you are going to buy 0W40( it has a much wider operating range than a 10W30), you should be using it AFTER a flush rather than wasting it.

bighead2267
07-01-2004, 02:06 AM
just go wal mart get those tech 2000 (less than 10 bucks for 4L) and fill it up for few mins or drive it for few hundred Km and drain it out. then fill in your regular oil........u a done......simple as that.

not recommend to use engine flush especially for older engine since it might cause oil leak..........u remove allt he dirt and cause some gap in the engine(correct me if i'm wrong, i'm not sure how to expalin it techically)

mik
07-01-2004, 10:29 PM
Originally posted by bighead2267
just go wal mart get those tech 2000 (less than 10 bucks for 4L) and fill it up for few mins or drive it for few hundred Km and drain it out. then fill in your regular oil........u a done......simple as that.

not recommend to use engine flush especially for older engine since it might cause oil leak..........u remove allt he dirt and cause some gap in the engine(correct me if i'm wrong, i'm not sure how to expalin it techically)

bighead2267 is right. You dont want to do an oil flush on an older engine because it will was out all of the carbon deposits and build up in the engine that in all reality may be filling gaps and creating seals necessary to prevent the rings from leaking oil, and allow the engine to keep proper compression. Thus on an older engine, a flush could cause problems such as increased oil consumption. If you engine is running fine, ,leave it. If its not broke, dont fix it.

sabad66
07-02-2004, 12:18 AM
how about a jdm engine just installed? what do you guys recommend?

H4LFY2nR
07-02-2004, 02:03 AM
A JDM engine for a 91 Civic?

ZC -130hp, DOHC, cheap
B16a1 -160hp, DOHC, VTEC, expensive

WGR4Pussies
07-02-2004, 02:46 AM
Originally posted by mik


bighead2267 is right. You dont want to do an oil flush on an older engine because it will was out all of the carbon deposits and build up in the engine that in all reality may be filling gaps and creating seals necessary to prevent the rings from leaking oil, and allow the engine to keep proper compression. Thus on an older engine, a flush could cause problems such as increased oil consumption. If you engine is running fine, ,leave it. If its not broke, dont fix it.

haha sorry wrong, a flush is not gona fuck with your compression by washing away shit from the rings..

WHAT A FLSUH WILL DO, IS LOSEN ALL THE CARBON, THIS CARBON CAN GET INTO YOUR MAIN BEARINGS, ROD BEARINGS, ETC ONCE THIS HAPPENS, BYE BYE ENGINE, YOUR ENGINE MAY DEVELOPE A KNOCK AND IT WILL BE TIME FOR A REBUILT.

ITS PRONE TO HAPPEN ON ENGINES THAT ARE NOT WELL MAINTAINED OR OLDER ENGINES, ITS NOT WORTH IT IMHO.

bighead2267
07-02-2004, 11:37 AM
just flush with regular oil and u should be fine. also, after 1000Km, pull your dip stick and see how bad is the oil. u will find the answer from there............good luck

sabad66
07-02-2004, 11:52 AM
Originally posted by H4LFY2nR
A JDM engine for a 91 Civic?

ZC -130hp, DOHC, cheap
B16a1 -160hp, DOHC, VTEC, expensive

no, i mean will it fuck up the "new" zc engine that was just installed? they are said to have under 90 000km is that too late to try an engine flush?

rice_eater
07-02-2004, 12:13 PM
^^^ why are you so set on having this done??

Weapon_R
07-02-2004, 12:21 PM
Just flush it if you want to do it so bad. It's no big deal. Pick up an engine flush solution from Walmart, drop it into your engine and let it idle for 15 minutes. Drain your oil, and refill.

bighead2267
07-03-2004, 10:29 AM
go ahead, since u've make up your mind already. or else bring it to some shop to do it. they've hihg pressure tools.

i will suggest u to do the fuel injection flush intsead. hope this help.

joeaverage
07-31-2009, 01:13 PM
I have used automatic transmission fluid in place of one quart of oil. Again - low load on the engine. Get it hot, change to the auto tranny oil, idle, low loads - whatever and then change the oil again.

The easiest way and perhaps the safest way I think is to change the oil using a quality oil of your choice (i.e. not ACME oil or So-and-so gas station oil) and drive the car normally for a few days. Use a quality filter - there are plenty of cheapish filters that are decent quality.

Anyhow drive it for a few days until the oil gets black and change it. And repeat if necessary.

I run synthetic oils. I find that the first oil change needs to happen early. How early depends on how dirty the engine is when I get it. Perhaps the first change is at 2500, the second at 4500 miles and the normal change is at 5000 miles. Or I have been known to change the filter at 2500 miles, top off the oil and do a full change at 5000 miles.

I don't like the idea of solvents in the crankcase. Too easy to dilute the next oil refill by puddles of leftover solvent somewhere in the engine - or to get a clump of debris floating around in the engine because the solvent was too much too fast.

I think a more frequent oil change just washes away oil deposits and crud a little at a time.

Of course if I pulled the valve cover and the engine looked like it was covered in petroleum jelly (Vaseline) - I would seriously be worried about flushing it. In that case I would pull the valve cover(s) and the oil pan and the oil pump and clean them with diesel by hand. I would also clean the head out by hand and make sure all the oil return passages were clean. I'd use solvents like diesel. Then I'd reoil everything, coat the cam with white grease just like a new engine rebuild, and keep my fingers crossed. I suspect an engine like that to have more problems because of the general neglect the car would have likely dealt with. Anyhow after the engine cleaning - refill with quality oil and change the filter and/or oil often until the engine was clean inside.

FWIW I have been inside my Honda (181K miles, Mobil 1 since new) and my VW engine (Mobil 1 since 100K miles, now 161K miles) and both look very clean and the cam lobes show very little wear (almost nil on the Honda).

Mibz
07-31-2009, 01:24 PM
Thank you for bumping a 5 year old thread to impart upon us your extensive knowledge.

Mr_ET
07-31-2009, 01:25 PM
Nice bump:thumbsup:

Toma
07-31-2009, 03:27 PM
Just an FYI... if your car's PCV system is routed into the intake....

I vented mine to atmosphere, and the car picked up a couple hp (on a 300 hp engine), I then removed the oil cap, and it picked up another 1.2 hp. I then ran Sea Foam through the intake system while the car idled at 2000 rpm... picked up another 4 hp. In total... cleaning the oil out of the intake, and letting the crank case "breath" was worth 7 hp on a 300 hp engine.

:thumbsup:

Toma
07-31-2009, 03:28 PM
Originally posted by Mibz
Thank you for bumping a 5 year old thread to impart upon us your extensive knowledge.
Doh!

Cos
07-31-2009, 03:39 PM
how the hell do you find a 5 year old thread on beyond... christ I cant even find the thread I posed in the night before some time.

sabad66
07-31-2009, 03:52 PM
lmao, I was in grade 11 when I posted this.

joycesun
08-03-2009, 01:25 AM
Original Post Removed. (Please read the Forum Rules and Terms of Use (http://forums.beyond.ca/articles.php?action=data&item=1) before posting again, or risk getting banned).