View Full Version : Wetsanding Polish

09-18-2004, 02:03 PM
What is the best hand polish for removing wetsanding marks?

custom culture
09-18-2004, 03:04 PM
uuummmmmmm...dude no hand polish will work...
it needs powerpolish

09-18-2004, 03:34 PM
shit, what would be a good machine one then? I have a simonize orbital cordless thing. Will that work?

09-18-2004, 03:37 PM
Nope, simoniz won't get fast enough.

Did you wet sand the car yourself?

Id highly reccomend a good body shop because it definately needs to be powerpolished now with a cutwax, and if it's done wrong even by the slightest bit you WILL burn your paint.

That's why you gotta go to a pro.

Good luck.

09-18-2004, 03:42 PM
It would allready be at a bodyshop if i could afford it.

09-19-2004, 12:39 AM
Did you wetsand it yourself?

If so I would really wait until you can afford to have it detailed, id just call around, some people are really resonable with their rates in powerpolishing.

09-22-2004, 08:57 AM
yeah...in order to do it right you need the right tools...the best polishers(in my opinion of course) are the dewalts and makitas, either one will run you around $300, pads will be another $75ish(you need 3-4 do do the whole polishing process) product will run you around $50, more if you buy enough to have around later...

it will be cheaper to find someone with good rates that will power polish for you...or even someone that has the right tools and can do it for ya(as in a friend), I would offer to help you out but unfortunately I don't have the tools.

I will offer you the best advice I can though if you insist on doing this yourself. Start with the most aggressive pad and compound(meguiars product line is my favorite)...you really don't need to use over 1500 rpm on this step, and some people will tell you to go even slower than that(had one guy say to use 800rpm, then again, he was using a wool pad), work your way up through the compounds getting less aggressive, slowly taking out the swirls left by the previous processes...generally I would use 4 steps of cutting compounds, the last being a very mild cut using a speed of around 1800-1850 rpm.
never mix and match pads and product, use one pad for each product, or thoroughly clean the pad between, last thing you need is to be working in a light cutting compound and suddenly hit a portion of the wheel that still has a harder compound in it.
keep the polisher moving at all times, making passes as long as it is comfortable for your arms to reach without you having to slide your body around(route the cord of the polisher over your shoulder, or if you have a carabiner hook it to your belt loop, that way the cord won't hit the part of the paint you are reaching over/across)...just work sections like this, maybe 3' X 3' kinda thing making straight passes back and forth in a kind of repeating s patter(hope that makes sense).
and the most important thing of all LET THE COMPOUND DO THE WORK. I have seen more amateur polishers ruin the paint on a car by trying to use their muscle to work a scratch out with the polisher. Think of it as you are simply guiding the polisher, never applying any weight to it, just moving it across the paint. The pad and compound will do all the work for you and you will run much less risk of burning the paint(so long as you keep moving).
once you are done these steps use your simoniz and a finishing polish such as meguiars gold class, if ya do it right, it should look better than a factory paint job(factory paint tends to have an orange peel look to it that sucks).

I really recommend letting a professional do this, but if you do it yourself, may the force be with you...good luck...
if any of the information I have posted here is incorrect anyone can feel free to correct me...this is just what I have learned...

09-24-2004, 04:03 PM
Is a rotary necessary or will my porter cable and a cut pad do the trick?

11-02-2004, 12:02 PM
I just have a quick question:
For wetsanding, is meguiars 2000grit a good type of sand paper to use? Also would the 3 stage meguiars paint cleaner, polisher and wax be good enough for after the wetsanding is complete?

11-06-2004, 03:31 PM
a standard rotary buffer/polisher is going to do the best work.

they also operate slower (usually variable speed as well) than say.. a sander would.

if it's just a pain in the ass cosmetically, wait till you've saved up enough dough to get it done professionally... you'll be even unhappier if you try to do it with no experience and the wrong tools.


11-30-2004, 08:39 PM
I have had good luck with Turtle waxes, Hand Polish. ITs a white containter with a green lid on it. I wet sanded my metallic green talon, and used that stuff to clean it up. It was the only thing that would remove the sand scratches. It was $5 for a thing of it. May or may not work for you though. But its a good product to have around any ways.

eeseen racing
12-02-2004, 02:07 PM
u fucked up when wet sanding period

12-03-2004, 07:08 PM
Originally posted by eeseen racing
u fucked up when wet sanding period

how the fuck does your comment help? STFU if u dont have anything good to say

12-03-2004, 09:34 PM
i might be able to help...i pmed you

eeseen racing
12-06-2004, 04:21 AM
i said it cuz if he screwed up on the wet sanding he most liklely will have to get it re cleard sorry for not staing the help part my bad

12-16-2004, 10:35 PM
Originally posted by eeseen racing
u fucked up when wet sanding period
how do you think that? i wet sand and polish most jobs that come out of my booth... why? well for one, orange peel allways happens (i have the least amout of orange peel though due to my investment in a non-hvlp gun that still meets voc laws of cali).. and i have yet to see a shop that does not get ANY dirt in the clear

eeseen racing
12-19-2004, 02:19 PM
sure you can wet sand and polish and orange peel happens on every job thats how paint sticks but what im sayin is he did not wet sand properly and went to deep so he will most likely ahve to re clear or repaint the car all i am saying but yes most paint jobs are wetsanded and polished after they are painted