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gen2teggy
02-22-2006, 06:47 PM
^^ does it have a vis CF hood?

CI_Josh
02-22-2006, 06:50 PM
Oh man I was reading that and was thinking... Red...thats me... G2....me.....GSR....me....and I drive of deerfoot everyday.... Then I was getting worried, but then I read the rest and just started laughing... haha good thing I'm not that stupid... VTEC is nice to have, but its not gonna win you races...lol

derek123
02-22-2006, 08:04 PM
Originally posted by Josh
VTEC is nice to have, but its not gonna win you races...lol


LIAR !!!

:)

CI_Josh
02-23-2006, 02:31 AM
I don't lie, it doesn't do MUCH... Ok, yeah it does, just trying to make the Non-VTEC guys feel special too. :burnout: :rofl:

gen2teggy
02-23-2006, 06:22 AM
i got school :(
and i dont have the thingy that sprays out winshild washer fuild
damn cf hood

does anyone kno how to install?

freakin
02-23-2006, 07:53 AM
Originally posted by gen2teggy
i got school :(
and i dont have the thingy that sprays out winshild washer fuild
damn cf hood

does anyone kno how to install?

You'll have to drill a couple of holes on the underside of your hood (do this nice and slow so that you don't drill through the top). You'll see a couple of flat squares in the mould where the would normally mount up in the metal hood. I'd suggest getting a set of plastic rivits from an auto parts store and using them to mount the lines/nozzles. That way you're not trying to thread in to the fiberglass with a non taping metal bolt. After that, it's just a matter of aiming them.



Originally posted by Speed_Dreams
Matt C8's are pimp!! its what i was running on my teg I love'm. But i would be warry about sandblasting them....Most offshore wheels are made out of a little lesser quality metal and you could end up pitting them. Cause if im not mistaken they are made out of some sort of magnesium/aluminum/???? combo

Drew, you were right. I did pit them a bit....but I'm cleaning them up with some emery cloth and I'm going to lay down some primer before I spray them flat black. There was 3 coats of paint on them....black (likely the original powdercoat), then red, then black again. All of the paint chips were showing red, so I wanted to start fresh on them. They're starting to look pretty nice. Plus no one has them in flat black, at least in Calgary....that I know of.

Oh and just for Drew (even though he's seen it) and to help justify the above VTEC comments. Here's a copy of my dyno sheet from a couple of weeks ago. It's sad, so please don't laugh. We're still trying to figure out what the hell happened. It seems like VTEC isn't engaging properly, so I'm running oddly and running a little on the rich side.

http://www.members.shaw.ca/matteakin/acura/B18/lamedynosheet_small1.JPG

gen2teggy
02-23-2006, 10:27 AM
hey matt
my lil bro got a crx haha maybe we could help each other out :thumbsup:

oh and i ducked typed my fuild thingys to my hood LOL...
i was inna hurry to get to school...but when i got there, the class was closed and no one there...class was yesterday. so i miss another day of class. :thumbsdow

freakin
02-23-2006, 06:28 PM
What are his plans for the CRX? I might have some parts that he might need. Also, if he changes any parts out, like taillights, bumpers, etc, let me know. I might be interested in them.

I'll have a 2nd gen B16 (and likely a S1 short geared tranny & clutch to go along with it) for sale towards the end of the summer. I just sent it to the machine shop on tuesday, so I'll be putting it back together this weekend or next week. I'm hoping to have it in and running as a temp motor until I get a new B20 built up for it.

gen2teggy
02-23-2006, 06:57 PM
we plan on fixing it up and getting a new paint job and putting in a b16a

frozenrice
02-24-2006, 12:03 AM
I've found my ultimate Integra, I'd almost kill to get my hands on this:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v219/frozenrice/integrawagon.jpg

BTW, Matt drop in on the 4door teg thread on G2IC. Some nice stuff on there lately.

Genjuro
02-24-2006, 10:12 AM
after a long trip to red deer yesterday and the car not starting 3 times while there and coming back, this morning it finally died. :cry:

looks like the starter or distributor is dead.. im sick of this.. i want a new car or a swap. can someone help me out here please?

QuasarCav
02-24-2006, 10:22 AM
Originally posted by Genjuro
after a long trip to red deer yesterday and the car not starting 3 times while there and coming back, this morning it finally died. :cry:

looks like the starter or distributor is dead.. im sick of this.. i want a new car or a swap. can someone help me out here please?


Based on my troubles I would say Coil. It's gone twice now and takes about 5 min to change.

Dont get all Integra hating just because it wont start, or I'll make you drive an 89 Cavalier.

Genjuro
02-24-2006, 10:37 AM
Originally posted by QuasarCav



Based on my troubles I would say Coil. It's gone twice now and takes about 5 min to change.

Dont get all Integra hating just because it wont start, or I'll make you drive an 89 Cavalier.

lol dont worry im not hating.

someone wanna help me today or tomorrow? i gotta get this equipment back to the office before monday too.. damn

QuasarCav
02-24-2006, 10:42 AM
Where are you?

I'll be around 36th ST all day tommorow. If it is the coild we could do it in 5 min and it will cost about $80.

Genjuro
02-24-2006, 10:46 AM
im stuck at home at the moment. about 5 min from matt.
i dont think its the coil though cause all the engine does its click when turning the key.

QuasarCav
02-24-2006, 11:55 AM
Originally posted by Genjuro
im stuck at home at the moment. about 5 min from matt.
i dont think its the coil though cause all the engine does its click when turning the key.


One click or many?

The coil would cause the engine to turn over but not start.

Sounds like a starter, Mine is going as well but I have a spare I was looking for some time to change it.

cocoabrova
02-24-2006, 12:51 PM
Originally posted by Genjuro
im stuck at home at the moment. about 5 min from matt.
i dont think its the coil though cause all the engine does its click when turning the key.

Try wiggling your battery terminal connections around, or tighten them if they're loose, and then try starting it. If that doesn't work, it could be that your battery is toast and needs replacing. If your battery seems fine, it could be your starter, but usually starters show signs like clicking, then starting, or grinding.....Try tapping the starter too. If it was your coil, it would still turn over, just not fire.

Genjuro
02-24-2006, 01:50 PM
usually when i drive the car around for a while and turn it off it wont start till i wait abit to cool down, but its cold as fuck so im sure thats not the case. that would be the coil, right? either way i'll need to replace that. but its just one click - battery is fine, just replaced it and lights etc work.

most likely the starter, but the clicking is coming from the distributor cap.
shit i had to pay 36 bucks for the cab.. if someone can help me out in the tonight or in the morning then sweet, cause the mechanic wants me to tow it there in the afternoon tmw to look at it.

Moonracer
02-24-2006, 02:08 PM
ya sounds like the starter, did you try wacking it to get the shaft to move? :rofl: sounds bad I know.

QuasarCav
02-24-2006, 02:18 PM
Originally posted by Moonracer
ya sounds like the starter, did you try wacking it to get the shaft to move? :rofl: sounds bad I know.

Moonracer
02-24-2006, 03:13 PM
^^:rofl: Well used for the second time today.

QuasarCav
02-24-2006, 03:19 PM
Originally posted by Moonracer
^^:rofl: Well used for the second time today.


I've sent it to everyone I know. It's just purrfect!

Moonracer
02-24-2006, 03:22 PM
:rofl:

Genjuro
02-24-2006, 03:44 PM
lmao:D
no i didnt wack... yet

damn i just checked, the starter is pretty expensive hey?
i just want to swap now..

QuasarCav
02-24-2006, 03:51 PM
Originally posted by Genjuro
lmao:D
no i didnt wack... yet

damn i just checked, the starter is pretty expensive hey?
i just want to swap now..


Swap = 10x more headaches.

Starters are prob. over 200 new, put up a post on here you would be surprised how many people hoard parts... Matt.

danlowteg
02-24-2006, 03:51 PM
if i had my sheet on this computer you could fill in the blanks and i could figure out what it is:( but try using a hammer and hit the starter if that works it is most likly your starter

danlowteg
02-24-2006, 03:55 PM
if i could bring your car into sait i could replace it in like 20 mins with all my power stuff. soon, soon then i can fix all your cars. matt......

Genjuro
02-24-2006, 04:10 PM
damnit.. we should have a meet... to hit my starter.

Moonracer
02-24-2006, 04:31 PM
:hitit:

QuasarCav
02-24-2006, 04:35 PM
And the award for the most off-topic thread goes to......



Are the other model specific threads like this?

:hijack:

Moonracer
02-24-2006, 04:49 PM
^^^they should be do lucky ;)

stevieo
02-24-2006, 09:01 PM
.....................


i have decided to KEEP MY CAR HAHAHAHA




woooooooooooooooooooooooooooo PSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSST!

Genjuro
02-24-2006, 09:34 PM
^ sweet.

hey so i got a quote from jdmsource. b18b for $800. yeah its the same engine, but less kms and probably more reliable.. that or from them b16a1 $1800 + 200 for lsd?

just a plan B, thats all..

stevieo
02-24-2006, 09:37 PM
i don't liek the b16 for our cars, our cars are heavier than civics and such, it feels nice to have the 'extra' 'torque' haha. but thats just my opinion..

danlowteg
02-24-2006, 10:13 PM
Originally posted by stevieo
.....................


i have decided to KEEP MY CAR HAHAHAHA




woooooooooooooooooooooooooooo PSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSST!

what made you change your mind?

gen2teggy
02-24-2006, 10:21 PM
Originally posted by stevieo
i don't liek the b16 for our cars, our cars are heavier than civics and such, it feels nice to have the 'extra' 'torque' haha. but thats just my opinion..

i got a b16 :thumbsdow

Genjuro
02-24-2006, 10:49 PM
wow really... so b18 is the way to be... but stay with a cable tranny cause hydr conversion is worse i heard? :confused:

stevieo
02-24-2006, 10:49 PM
only thing b16 got on me is some hp and a nice high rev/red line hahaha.

don't you worry about that though.. hehe jk dave.

umm dan, i dunno just a small change of heart..i guess i can't let go of my actual 'first love'

gen2teggy
02-24-2006, 10:56 PM
Originally posted by stevieo
only thing b16 got on me is some hp and a nice high rev/red line hahaha.

well my vtec beats ur b18 anyday

cocoabrova
02-24-2006, 11:14 PM
Originally posted by Genjuro
usually when i drive the car around for a while and turn it off it wont start till i wait abit to cool down, but its cold as fuck so im sure thats not the case. that would be the coil, right? either way i'll need to replace that. but its just one click - battery is fine, just replaced it and lights etc work.

most likely the starter, but the clicking is coming from the distributor cap.
shit i had to pay 36 bucks for the cab.. if someone can help me out in the tonight or in the morning then sweet, cause the mechanic wants me to tow it there in the afternoon tmw to look at it.

What part of the city are you in?
Usually clicking when trying to start a car is either dead battery, or bad connection to the starter (not enough juice). As for the dist. cap, I've never heard of a clicking noise coming from it.....
Even if the battery is good and your access. are coming on, if there isn't power going to the starter, it won't go. Check the leads going to the starter (+ and -) and check your battery leads.

frostyda9
02-24-2006, 11:23 PM
Originally posted by QuasarCav
And the award for the most off-topic thread goes to......


And the award for most anally retentive poster goes to.... :D :drama:

dj_honda
02-25-2006, 01:42 AM
obd0 non vtec b series distributor........anyone got one?

i need to see if that is why there is no spark on this motor i got.....so i would need to try it, if it works and solves the problem, then i would pay for it. so name a price and if you guys have one?

freakin
02-25-2006, 11:23 AM
Damn, a lot happened in here of the last couple of days.

Mike, that wagon is sweet! I'm assuming that's a custom job. It looks like they took the roof off another sedan and welded it on the back. That's pretty amazing. I'd take that car in a second.

Andrew, your not starting issue when it's hot is likely your distributor. I just sold my last OBD1 distributor....because I'm an idiot. But I have a couple of VTEC distributors that we can pull the internals out of if you need the test some parts before you buy them. I'd be willing to bet that you've run your battery down by trying to get it to start....but you also might be having some starter problems. I had a simmilar issue and all I did was get a big metal bar, line it up about a foot above the starter and let it drop on it. After that, it's started every time, hehe. I do have a couple of starters kicking around that you could try out. I need to keep at least one of them for my new car though. I'm up north for most of the day, so let me know what you'll need. If I can make it down south, I'll just put the parts in a box for you to pick up from my place. I'll PM you my cell no, so just give me a call when you get a chance.
These are very minor problems, so don't go swaping a motor at this point. We all have a distributor shit the bed around 200,000KM. It's pretty common. If you're totally set on a new motor in, you should put a B20 in anyhow. Just run it off your PR4 ECU, and use your B18A intake manifold and cams on it (the cams aren't vital, but they are better). It's only about $1000 from JDM. You'd be much happier with that then replacing it with the same motor. Then you could also sell the B18A for $300.

freakin
02-25-2006, 11:29 AM
Damn that was a long post.

PS, Steve, glad to hear that you came to your senses.

danlowteg
02-25-2006, 12:19 PM
Originally posted by freakin
Damn, a lot happened in here of the last couple of days.

Mike, that wagon is sweet! I'm assuming that's a custom job. It looks like they took the roof off another sedan and welded it on the back. That's pretty amazing. I'd take that car in a second.

Andrew, your not starting issue when it's hot is likely your distributor. I just sold my last OBD1 distributor....because I'm an idiot. But I have a couple of VTEC distributors that we can pull the internals out of if you need the test some parts before you buy them. I'd be willing to bet that you've run your battery down by trying to get it to start....but you also might be having some starter problems. I had a simmilar issue and all I did was get a big metal bar, line it up about a foot above the starter and let it drop on it. After that, it's started every time, hehe. I do have a couple of starters kicking around that you could try out. I need to keep at least one of them for my new car though. I'm up north for most of the day, so let me know what you'll need. If I can make it down south, I'll just put the parts in a box for you to pick up from my place. I'll PM you my cell no, so just give me a call when you get a chance.
These are very minor problems, so don't go swaping a motor at this point. We all have a distributor shit the bed around 200,000KM. It's pretty common. If you're totally set on a new motor in, you should put a B20 in anyhow. Just run it off your PR4 ECU, and use your B18A intake manifold and cams on it (the cams aren't vital, but they are better). It's only about $1000 from JDM. You'd be much happier with that then replacing it with the same motor. Then you could also sell the B18A for $300.

and so these are the days of our lives......................

stevieo
02-25-2006, 03:19 PM
Originally posted by freakin
Damn that was a long post.

PS, Steve, glad to hear that you came to your senses.

:hitit: haha, just took some time..and now i guess money goes back into this machine to get it running.....faster...;)

frozenrice
02-25-2006, 03:51 PM
Originally posted by freakin
Mike, that wagon is sweet! I'm assuming that's a custom job. It looks like they took the roof off another sedan and welded it on the back. That's pretty amazing. I'd take that car in a second.

haha, fooled you. That is actually a photochop somebody on G2IC did in the sedan thread. Still looks awesome though. Maybe I should try to do a Integra front end conversion on the Accord. There's also another guy on that thread that has done the EJ (aka 96-00 4 door civic) side skirts. Looks better than the 3rd gen Teg skirts. I'm gonna pick up a set in the next little while here and give it a try.

Genjuro
02-26-2006, 01:32 AM
thanks matt.
didnt get a chance to get to the pc today till now.
i tried the car in the morning and like i thought it wouldnt start still, so i did what you all suggested, wacked the starter and the distributor a little bit. cranked it again and again and it worked. so i drove it to my mechanic which saves me about 100 bucks for the tow. i explained to him what was happening and he said yeah its most likely the starter but he'll check it too. also told him about the coil and hes gonna replace that as well i think.

not sure if i mentioned this before but on my way to red deer on thursday, on deerfoot i thought what looked like a really big chunk of snow in the middle of the road.. so i drove over it... then thump... the big bolder of stone cracked my converter and is smoking like a bitch underneath.. lol fun..

Genjuro
02-26-2006, 11:16 PM
did i kill the thread? lol... oops...

frozenrice
02-27-2006, 07:57 AM
Originally posted by Genjuro
the big bolder of stone cracked my converter and is smoking like a bitch underneath.. lol fun..

All the better reason to upgrade your exhaust system then. 2 1/2" piping, high flo cat, uber big reosnator etc.......

freakin
02-27-2006, 09:56 AM
2.25 is probably plenty for a stock motor. I think I might be upgrading my teg to 2.5 soon. Let me know if you're interested in my setup. I'm pretty sure it'll bolt right up to a 2-door. And if it won't I'll get Jeff to fix it at his shop for a case of beer.

Did you get your no start problems fixed up Andrew?

Genjuro
02-27-2006, 12:45 PM
Originally posted by freakin
2.25 is probably plenty for a stock motor. I think I might be upgrading my teg to 2.5 soon. Let me know if you're interested in my setup. I'm pretty sure it'll bolt right up to a 2-door. And if it won't I'll get Jeff to fix it at his shop for a case of beer.

Did you get your no start problems fixed up Andrew?
perfect, i'll keep that in mind forsure, but you think its worth it for a motor with about 270xxx kms on it?
didnt get the car back yet but he should be done today.. looks like the starter though. if the distributor is faulty then i'll get that done also just in case. we'll see how it turns out and yeah..
for that b20 head your talking about, is there a tad performance/reliability increase?

danlowteg
02-27-2006, 06:20 PM
Originally posted by freakin
2.25 is probably plenty for a stock motor. I think I might be upgrading my teg to 2.5 soon. Let me know if you're interested in my setup. I'm pretty sure it'll bolt right up to a 2-door. And if it won't I'll get Jeff to fix it at his shop for a case of beer.

Did you get your no start problems fixed up Andrew?

think andrew can throw on a res and no cat on for me :D

derek123
02-27-2006, 06:49 PM
Originally posted by frozenrice
Maybe I should try to do a Integra front end conversion on the Accord.

please do.
:love:
i'd like to see that.




ps - why is the g3 thread sticky ?

rey_mysterio
02-27-2006, 07:21 PM
so i finally got so money aside to purchase a motor. . . .i havent started looking around yet..im looking to get the b16a sir II.. im possibly looking to go to speedtech or jdmsource for the motor and labor or maybe just motor. . . . .have any of u done this swap??

danlowteg
02-27-2006, 08:44 PM
Done it no. Can I? Yes, very easily but again i have no time. :(

frozenrice
02-27-2006, 10:07 PM
Originally posted by derek123
ps - why is the g3 thread sticky ?

probably one of the mods has a g3 that uses 94 octane.

freakin
02-27-2006, 11:26 PM
Originally posted by Genjuro

perfect, i'll keep that in mind forsure, but you think its worth it for a motor with about 270xxx kms on it?
didnt get the car back yet but he should be done today.. looks like the starter though. if the distributor is faulty then i'll get that done also just in case. we'll see how it turns out and yeah..
for that b20 head your talking about, is there a tad performance/reliability increase?

The B20 head is essentially the same as your B18A, just has a slightly larger bore in the combustion chamber to account for the 84mm bore on the B20. What I was recomending was the entire B20 engine. It's a nice and easy upgrade from the B18 without getting too complicated or expensive.


Originally posted by rey_mysterio
so i finally got so money aside to purchase a motor. . . .i havent started looking around yet..im looking to get the b16a sir II.. im possibly looking to go to speedtech or jdmsource for the motor and labor or maybe just motor. . . . .have any of u done this swap??

I'd recomend against the B16 motor in the Teg. Everyone that I have talked to with one has said that there's not much difference between it and the B18A. More top end, but no bottom end. As I said earlier in this same post...I'd go with the B20. If you can find a B20Z or one with a P8R head then you're laughing....but just a regular B20 is a nice change as well. You'll save yourself a chunk of cash as well.

What ever happened with that parts car of yours? Did you end up selling it as a whole, or are you still parting it out? Let me know if you need a hand tearing it apart.

danlowteg
02-28-2006, 12:02 AM
Originally posted by freakin


What ever happened with that parts car of yours? Did you end up selling it as a whole, or are you still parting it out? Let me know if you need a hand tearing it apart.

Parts Car????? I Need Axles :D

cocoabrova
02-28-2006, 07:13 AM
Originally posted by frozenrice


probably one of the mods has a g3 that uses 94 octane.

No, I thought I stickied both of them at the same time, but the G2 thread IS stickied now:thumbsup:

frozenrice
02-28-2006, 07:38 AM
Originally posted by cocoabrova


No, I thought I stickied both of them at the same time, but the G2 thread IS stickied now:thumbsup:

Woot! Thanks! :thumbsup:

Genjuro
02-28-2006, 10:53 PM
just got the baby back today, and my god it starts perfectly.
changed the starter
ignition coil
some oil presure sensor
he fixed up my exhaust pipe a bit cause it had holes
and abs sensor on the rear driver needs to be replaced sometime.
the bill? holy shit... lol i almost cried when he told me haha..

anyways the car seems fine for now. im not gonna do any thing else to it till it actually needs it (new exhaust or swap or whatever) because i need to save money.

Madspinner
02-28-2006, 11:15 PM
Okay Integra meet this sunday(March 5th) 6pm at chinook center , upper level.
Its only supposed to be -1 so weather not to bad.
integra meet (http://www.abtegs.com/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=1027#10250)

frozenrice
03-01-2006, 12:29 AM
Originally posted by Madspinner
Okay Integra meet this sunday(March 5th) 6pm at chinook center , upper level.
Its only supposed to be -1 so weather not to bad.
integra meet (http://www.abtegs.com/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=1027#10250)

Thanks Andy!

Hash_man
03-01-2006, 12:34 AM
Quick question for you guys... i'm pretty sure they do, but your g2 tegs... cable tranny right??

stevieo
03-01-2006, 03:04 AM
yes sir cable tranny.

QuasarCav
03-01-2006, 08:58 AM
Originally posted by Genjuro
just got the baby back today, and my god it starts perfectly.
changed the starter
ignition coil
some oil presure sensor
he fixed up my exhaust pipe a bit cause it had holes
and abs sensor on the rear driver needs to be replaced sometime.
the bill? holy shit... lol i almost cried when he told me haha..

anyways the car seems fine for now. im not gonna do any thing else to it till it actually needs it (new exhaust or swap or whatever) because i need to save money.


From a shop that has got to be over $500.

Any price is a good one for some sweet Integra driving.

freakin
03-01-2006, 09:22 AM
Originally posted by Hash_man
Quick question for you guys... i'm pretty sure they do, but your g2 tegs... cable tranny right??

Yep, all cable, but the 90-91 (OBD0) cars have a smaller input shaft and use the same clutches at the B-series equiped EFs in Japan. The 92-93 (OBD1) cars have a larger input shaft and use the same clutches as the rest of the hydro B-series Hondas....and a lot of the same internals.

Hash_man
03-01-2006, 11:50 AM
Yep, all cable, but the 90-91 (OBD0) cars have a smaller input shaft and use the same clutches at the B-series equiped EFs in Japan. The 92-93 (OBD1) cars have a larger input shaft and use the same clutches as the rest of the hydro B-series Hondas....and a lot of the same internals.

Excellent, thanks.

danlowteg
03-01-2006, 07:13 PM
Originally posted by freakin


Yep, all cable, but the 90-91 (OBD0) cars have a smaller input shaft and use the same clutches at the B-series equiped EFs in Japan. The 92-93 (OBD1) cars have a larger input shaft and use the same clutches as the rest of the hydro B-series Hondas....and a lot of the same internals.

where have you been matt?

danlowteg
03-01-2006, 07:13 PM
:thumbsup: :love: :poosie: :D To Being Stickied

rey_mysterio
03-01-2006, 07:21 PM
so your saying u wouldnt recomend the b16 motors. . . i have to look for one soon spring is around the corner. . . .any suggestions on what direction i should go??

freakin i did end up selling the whole car. . . it was easier for me. . .no i just have to figure out what motor i am going to go with. . . .i think your suggesting me to go with torque rather then hp1!:burnout:

jaylo
03-01-2006, 07:57 PM
Originally posted by rey_mysterio
so your saying u wouldnt recomend the b16 motors. . . i have to look for one soon spring is around the corner. . . .any suggestions on what direction i should go??

freakin i did end up selling the whole car. . . it was easier for me. . .no i just have to figure out what motor i am going to go with. . . .i think your suggesting me to go with torque rather then hp1!:burnout:

I'd say save up a little bit more and go turbo if you want more power. I thought about swapping a B16 and building it for more power, but it will just cost too much...

rey_mysterio
03-01-2006, 10:56 PM
my car has a lot of k's on it thogh so thats why i have to look for a motor with lower k's . . . . .

Speed_Dreams
03-02-2006, 12:47 AM
Go B20

Seriously Torque is much more usefull unless your planning on racing your car. your car will "feel" faster then if you had a B16 , I drove my Car and then i drove logans Car and my car felt faster untill 5k. And its a direct bolt in , Very little wiring and they are cheap...when i looked for one it was $900 i am sure they are cheaper now

Genjuro
03-02-2006, 10:26 AM
^ yeah i rather have TQ than a little bit more hp. if i do a swap then its gonna be what they recommended.. b20

The bill to my fix... 640... im happy though. just minor issues now and its nearly perfect.

rey_mysterio
03-02-2006, 11:01 AM
where can i find a b20 motor???

cocoabrova
03-02-2006, 11:30 AM
Originally posted by rey_mysterio
where can i find a b20 motor???

JDM Source or Speedtech......I think JDM Source has a PR8 B20B in stock. These are very rare JDM B20B's w/ bigger intake valves (same size as VTEC valves). If you read up on them, you'll find that they're very sought after, and very hard to find.....I'm going there today to take a look at it today:burnout:

dj_honda
03-02-2006, 11:50 AM
Originally posted by cocoabrova


JDM Source or Speedtech......I think JDM Source has a PR8 B20B in stock. These are very rare JDM B20B's w/ bigger intake valves (same size as VTEC valves). If you read up on them, you'll find that they're very sought after, and very hard to find.....I'm going there today to take a look at it today:burnout:

you mean p8r. and they are overrated ;)

cocoabrova
03-02-2006, 12:10 PM
Originally posted by dj_honda


you mean p8r. and they are overrated ;)

Bah, same shit:poosie: I think going from a B18A/B to a B20B is slightly overrated, but if I were to go B20B, swapping in a P8R would make it worth it, for me anyways....Has anyone done the B18B exh. manifold/cam swap on their B18A? And if so, have you noticed the 10hp or so difference, or any difference for that matter?

dj_honda
03-02-2006, 12:20 PM
Originally posted by cocoabrova


Bah, same shit:poosie: I think going from a B18A/B to a B20B is slightly overrated, but if I were to go B20B, swapping in a P8R would make it worth it, for me anyways....Has anyone done the B18B exh. manifold/cam swap on their B18A? And if so, have you noticed the 10hp or so difference, or any difference for that matter?

i was just kidding around man its definitely a cheaper alternative to the vtec heads. and it just sounds plain awesome at 4k rpms. if you want you can take my car for a rip.:thumbsup:

QuasarCav
03-02-2006, 12:21 PM
Originally posted by cocoabrova


Bah, same shit:poosie: I think going from a B18A/B to a B20B is slightly overrated, but if I were to go B20B, swapping in a P8R would make it worth it, for me anyways....Has anyone done the B18B exh. manifold/cam swap on their B18A? And if so, have you noticed the 10hp or so difference, or any difference for that matter?


Only for the 90-91 guys, I dont think anyone on the thread has attempted it.

Whats the specs on the p8r b20? I've never understood swapping for a bit more torque.

rey_mysterio
03-02-2006, 01:28 PM
what is a p8r??

stevieo
03-02-2006, 01:33 PM
i think its a vtec head?

gen2teggy
03-02-2006, 01:33 PM
ls/vtec ^

QuasarCav
03-02-2006, 01:53 PM
NO,

It's the head from the B20 that features the same size valves as a VTEC head. 1mm difference IIRC.

gen2teggy
03-02-2006, 03:38 PM
:dunno:

QuasarCav
03-02-2006, 03:39 PM
Originally posted by gen2teggy
:dunno:


The b20 comes in many different flavours much like the b18 series.

One version of the B20 has valves that are larger than the other heads, giving you more flow.

Genjuro
03-02-2006, 03:41 PM
how can you tell which b20 you have? just in case....

gen2teggy
03-02-2006, 03:43 PM
Originally posted by QuasarCav



The b20 comes in many different flavours much like the b18 series.

One version of the B20 has valves that are larger than the other heads, giving you more flow.

:dunno: oh

QuasarCav
03-02-2006, 03:43 PM
The stamp on the head.

I'll let Matt chime in for this one.

Have you seent his Matt?

http://forums.beyond.ca/showthread.php?s=&threadid=121152

Y1 cable, or are you looking for some LSD?

danlowteg
03-02-2006, 05:38 PM
Originally posted by QuasarCav
The stamp on the head.

I'll let Matt chime in for this one.

Have you seent his Matt?

http://forums.beyond.ca/showthread.php?s=&threadid=121152

Y1 cable, or are you looking for some LSD?

i think he found one but hell he will buy anything for a good deal

frostyda9
03-02-2006, 09:59 PM
I may be selling my stock hood in a couple days, before I do though I thought I would check to see if anyone needs one on the thread. Frost white, nearly perfect shape.

frozenrice
03-02-2006, 10:10 PM
Hey Dave, you finally getting a carbon fibre?

frostyda9
03-02-2006, 10:32 PM
Possibly...there's a deal in the works, but until it's final I can't say for sure ;)

danlowteg
03-02-2006, 10:38 PM
Originally posted by frostyda9
Possibly...there's a deal in the works, but until it's final I can't say for sure ;)

put the money into the engine :thumbsup:

freakin
03-03-2006, 12:44 AM
I've been in hiding. School's been my priority lately. I have one more week of hell, then things should settle down a bit.

In response to all of this B20 stuff, the P8R engines are lightly higher compression, and have a better breathing head. They're basically the same compression as the hard to find USDM B20Z motors, but they have a better breathing head. The normal B20's have a head that's basically the same as the LS heads, with the exception that the combusion chamber is 84mm instead of 81mm. On the P8R heads, they have a smaller combustion chamber (higher compression) and they have larger intake valves (33mm, same diameter as VTEC heads). Unfortunately the stems aren't the same size, so you can't put ITR valves in the head. The head will have P8R stamped on it and they usually have a really large intake manifold on them compared to the normal B20's. If you find one....that's the one to pick up. Short of a B16 head, that's as good as it's going to get. Talk to JDM source for one...it they have it, it's worth the extra $100-$200 for the P8R. Expect to pay about $800 - $1,000 for a B20.

Lewis, thanks for the link, I think I'm going to pick up the LS/VTEC kit off that guy. The Y1 tranny for $600 isn't a good deal.....Y1's are notorious for bad syncros. S1's are maybe worth $500. A short geared YS1 is worth $500....but for a Y1, I'd only pay $400 tops.

freakin
03-03-2006, 12:52 AM
PS, I've already found a YS1 LSD for the Teg and a S1 for the CRX. I think I'll be picking up a hydro B16 LSD tranny this spring, so I'll have a S1 for sale soon if anyone's intersted.

Genjuro
03-03-2006, 10:35 AM
holy shit... we can learn so much off matt its unbelieveable.. well i can at least. thanks man and good luck if you have any tests coming up.

stevieo
03-03-2006, 08:19 PM
soooo much for keeping the car, car is sold! :(