View Full Version : 1995 Nissan 300zx Twin Turbo

11-01-2004, 04:05 PM
Decided to update the thread, and put videos at the top for anyone who may be interested.

(My Z running an 11.02 ET, in 2009.)

August 19th, 2011.

Cut a nearly perfect light on this pass, and had a good hard launch. Car went pretty good

Full Weight: 3501 lbs.
5.8 lbs/hp

Older stuff.

2005 Videos

2005 Review Video
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i141/photodump_2006/Beyond/th_ZFan_2005.jpg (http://s71.photobucket.com/albums/i141/photodump_2006/Beyond/?action=view&current=ZFan_2005.flv)

Dyno Video
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i141/photodump_2006/Beyond/th_ZFan604rwhp542rwtq.jpg (http://s71.photobucket.com/albums/i141/photodump_2006/Beyond/?action=view&current=ZFan604rwhp542rwtq.flv)

My First 11 Second Pass in Calgary
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i141/photodump_2006/Beyond/th_ZFan11p836at122.jpg (http://s71.photobucket.com/albums/i141/photodump_2006/Beyond/?action=view&current=ZFan11p836at122.flv)

Very First Pass In Edmonton
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i141/photodump_2006/Beyond/th_ZFan11p524at125mph.jpg (http://s71.photobucket.com/albums/i141/photodump_2006/Beyond/?action=view&current=ZFan11p524at125mph.flv)

An interior shot of my 1995 Twin Turbo.


11-01-2004, 04:49 PM
This is a picture of the engine bay when I originally purchased the car. The engine bay (what you see) is completely stock at this time.


11-01-2004, 05:02 PM
Here's a scanned image from a photograph taken from the rear.


11-01-2004, 05:08 PM
Here is a another scanned image from the front. All stock body at this point.

Current modifications on the car at this stage are...

JWT ECU upgrade
Single POP Charger
Boost Jets
17" Enkei Fronts, 18" Enkei Rears (RP01's)
Greddy Exhaust (Cat-Back)

More pictures to come, maybe tomorrow or something. These are all OLD pictures from when I first bought the car. More later!


11-01-2004, 09:58 PM
The first set of modifications that I had done to the car after purchasing was...

Stillen Rocker Panels and Door Fillers
Stillen Front Louver
Stillen Rear Valence
Stillen Front Lip Spoiler

Stuff you can't see, but that was done in the same time frame.

Lightweight Aluminum Flywheel
Lightened Pulleys
Dual Friction Clutch

Here's a picture. :bigpimp:


11-02-2004, 05:42 PM
Having the car at the Track made me realize a couple of things. First was that the car doesn't stop for sh!t on stock brakes/rotors! So those had to go.

Also, noticed that the turbos got real warm real fast, or at least the air did, so I began to see value for Intercooler upgrades. So, first things first. Make the car stop a little better.

Here's a picture of the brake upgrade.

Went with AP Racing 4 Piston Calipers, slotted and drilled rotors. Stainless lines at the same time.

This picture shows the new rotor on the car, with the highlighted area being the size of the original rotor.


11-02-2004, 05:59 PM
All pictures now are digital, the first few were scanned. In any case, this is a picture showing the size difference between stock and the Stillen Intercoolers.


11-02-2004, 06:09 PM
Here is a picture with the front off the car - installing the Intercooler in my garage.


11-02-2004, 09:05 PM
So, back at the Track with all the mods described in previous posts. This is at the Road Track at Race City in Calgary.

Also installed at this stage were:

Blitz SBC-iD Boost Controller
Silicon Boost Hoses (Red)
Oil Cooler Kit
Aluminum Lower Radiator Pipe

The car (in this trim) runs its fastest 1/4 mile at 12.949. This is in Calgary (approx. 5000ft above sea level). Done on 18" Rears with street tires. Suspect I could go slightly faster with the stock wheels on, but whatever...


11-03-2004, 10:53 PM
Getting ready for the Big Turbo upgrade.

Larger Injectors (370cc to 555cc) NISMO
Dual POP Chargers
JWT ECU Upgrade with 555cc/Dual POP


11-03-2004, 11:06 PM
Single POP replaced with Dual POP.


11-03-2004, 11:08 PM
Split image.

Nitrous Bottle in the back of the car.

The arming switch on the left, the remote bottle opener switch on the right.


** EDIT ** This has now been removed permanently from the car. (2008)


11-16-2004, 12:08 PM
The big upgrades are next!

So, here's a picture of the downpipes choosen, as well as the new pistons. The pistons are Forged by CP Racing. The downpipes are Greg Dupree Split Downpipes.

(No picture) But also Stillen Mid-Pipes replacing the stock components.


11-16-2004, 12:11 PM
The Turbo choice was a tough one - I wanted reasonable power and moderate lag as opposed to huge power and big lag. So I went with the HKS 2530 BB Turbo.

(Ofcourse, it is a Twin Turbo, so there are TWO of these bad boys)


11-18-2004, 10:42 PM
So, here is where we stand now on the car...

Jim Wolf CPU Upgrade
Dual POP Charger
Underdrive Pulleys
Nismo 555cc Injectors
Stillen Larger Intercoolers
Intercooler Ducts
HKS 2530 BB Turbos
JWT 400+ Cam Shafts
JWT Valve Springs
Forged CP Pistons
Port Cylinder Heads, Port Exhaust Manifolds, Port Intake Manifold, Port Match Turbo to Exhaust Manifolds
Balanced Engine
Polish & Shotpeen Rods
Nitrous w/10lb Bottlez & JWT ECU Upgrade for NOS
Greg Dupree Split Down Pipes
Stillen Mid-Pipe
Greddy Exhaust
Aluminum Flywheel
Aluminum 1-piece Driveshaft
MacLeod Revlock Clutch
Stillen Oil Cooler Kit
Aluminum Lower-Radiator Pipe
Blitz SBC-id Boost Controller
Short Throw Shifter
Triple pod guage
EGT left, EGT right, Boost

AP Racing 4 Piston Calipers
Goodridge Brake Lines w/Motul 600
13" Slotted/Drilled Front Rotors

Stillen Type III Aerokit
17" Enkei Fronts
255/40YR-17 S-03 Pole Positions
18" Enkei Rears
275/35YR-18 S-03 Pole Positions
Razo Magnesium Pedal Pads

Pre-breakin dyno results

471.9rwhp / 409.0 rwtq / 13.8 psi PEAK / 91 Octane

Can hardly wait to crank the boost after break in!

Dyno chart:


05-28-2005, 02:32 AM
Yes, this post is empty.

06-18-2005, 12:47 AM
Finally have put some KM's on the car and took it back to the dyno. Cranked up the boost and here are the results:


Here's a quick little video of the Z at the dyno:

604 rwhp / 542 rwtq Dyno Run (http://www.albertatop10.ca/300ZX/ZFan604rwhp542rwtq.wmv)


Timeslips will be posted once I get a chance to run with this fuel and boost setting. :thumbsup:

08-21-2005, 01:16 AM
The Z won the Drag competition at the v8less Sport Compact Challenge at Race City (Calgary, AB) on August 20th, 2005.

Here are the elimination time slips:


All these runs did not use nitrous. Quickest run was an 11.797 @ 126.79 mph.

10-01-2005, 12:43 PM
Set a new personal best for the Z.

This is still on a radial drag tire and nitrous was not used.


02-18-2006, 12:34 PM
Here's a picture from dyno day!


02-18-2006, 12:35 PM
A picture of the Z just before I parked it for the Winter.


07-25-2007, 08:26 PM
Well, back on the dyno this year. Changes are as follows.

Removed Nitrous System
Replaced 555cc with 740cc injectors
Replaced the JWT ECU with a tunable ECU - The ZEMulator.
Replaced stock manifolds with MS Manifolds
Replaced forged CP pistons witha new set of forged CP pistons that had the crowns treated.

At the end of the first pump fuel dyno the Z made 557.65 rwhp and 491.08 rwtq. Back on the dyno for the second time, to tweak the pump fuel tune and then to move on to race gas. That finalized tune saw 577.20 rwhp and 498.40 rwtq.

Comparions between two pump fuel tunes.

What I'm calling my race fuel tune is not straight race gas. The dyno was done with 1/4 tank of pump fuel (about 15 litres) and then 15 litres of C16 was poured in. So, 50/50 is the intended mixture between pump fuel and race gasoline. That's how I'll be running it at the track once the race fuel tune is done. (Which it is currently not...)

At 23.5 pounds of boost, the final tune saw 610.54rwhp and 565.55 rwtq. The car did make 619.x rwhp on one run if anyone cares. The tune is not finished and I will hopefully be hitting the dyno next week to finalize things. I'll post the final dyno numbers when I have them.

50/50 - pump/race gas dyno sheet.

11-21-2008, 06:06 PM

This is a picture of the Z at SIR (Saskatoon International Raceway) where it won the Sport Compact Class at the Performance Plus 2007 Fastest Street Car Shootout.

06-21-2009, 10:59 PM
Finally fixed all the links in this thread. Sorry about that. Also, I will do an update on the thread later this year once the car is actually putting out some numbers. ;)

08-11-2009, 11:13 PM
At the end of 2007, I had a nitrous backfire in the motor which actually did some damage to the internals of the car. It bent the stock rods, valves hit pistons damaging some pistons, and the heads in fact were basically already destroyed from severe detonation that could not be fixed from the first motor that I destroyed - but I had re-used them anyway.

Right. So this in fact is the third time the motor in my Z has been taken apart. But it is the first time that I will be doing all the assembly work of the entire short and long blocks myself. The car is now finished, but I have not posted any pictures yet, and frankly after the initial bit, I got lazy with taking pics. So here are some pictures of my current build, which I am hopeful will last me a long time.

08-11-2009, 11:15 PM
Here's the block, with nothing in it, ready to be assembled.

08-11-2009, 11:17 PM
The very first thing I did was install the top side main bearings. I put a little bit of oil on them before pushing them into place. They are ACL Race bearings 4M2737H.

08-11-2009, 11:19 PM

Installed ARP main studs.

Finger tightened to ensure they fully seat. Then removed the studs. Applied red Permatex (loctite equivalent) and re-tightened by hand ensuring studs again fully seat. I actually used a T30 key to give just a quarter turn more on each stud after finger tight.

08-11-2009, 11:22 PM
Installed the other half of the main bearings. Lightly oiled them before installing.

08-11-2009, 11:24 PM
Install 3 oil thingies. I would have thought there would have been a tonne of oil splashing about, but I guess these are necessary. Install with 10mm w/lock washer. Six to do up.

08-11-2009, 11:27 PM
Gently dropped in crank shaft and it fits like a glove into the bearings.

08-11-2009, 11:29 PM
Install the cradle. Install washers on all studs. Apply the ARP moly lube to each nut on the threads and bottom contact surface. The ARP lube is critical because it sets the correct torque for the studs. Use of other lubricants will require other unknown torque values. Torque each to 70 ft-lbs in the pattern and manner noted in the factory service manual 3 times.

I actually used 40 ft-lbs on torque round #1. Then backed them off. Then used 55 ft-lbs on torque round #2. Then backed them off. Then I used the final torque value of 70 ft-lbs. I used the pattern noted in the service manual, and the reverse of that when backing them off. Basically same procedure as that is provided by ARP for ARP Head Stud Installation.

08-11-2009, 11:34 PM
Next it is time to install the rings, pistons & rods. I followed the instructions that came with the pistons & rods for preparation to go into the block. My wristpins and retainers were already installed, as I had everything weighed to make sure it was balanced. [Plug for Davenport goes here, as they did that for me as part of the weighing the assembled units.]

I put the rings on each piston as per the instructions, carefully making certain that each ring was aligned appropriately according to the positioning map. I did not use a ring expander, I just put them on by hand. I found aligning the rings to be annoying and tedious. It took a lot more time than I anticipated, but you must be patient.

08-11-2009, 11:37 PM
The rod bearings I selected for the Eagle Rods were all Grade 3 bearings. I measured them with a micrometer and they were good to go based on the rod journal measurements. On some of the bearings I put oil on the underside, on others I put an assembly grease. We'll see how that works out. I also put a little bit of oil on the rod journal before installing.

I removed the rod end caps, put the rod bearings in and used a ring compressor gently sliding the piston through it. Then I spun the crankshaft so the rod journal was directly beneath the cylinder for which I was installing the assembled rod/piston. I put engine oil on the cylinder walls before gently and carefully dropping the rod through the cylinder. Slowly pushing the top of the piston downwards until the rod pops onto the crank journal. At this point, I flipped the motor over, and put the rod cap on. Using ARP lube, I did up the bolts finger tight, and then alternated back and forth between bolts until the end cap was done up evenly. I then finished up with a torque wrench set to 43 ft/lbs. Rinse and repeated the process for all 6 sets of rings, pistons & rods.

In the past, I have got the piston crowns treated. This build I chose not to do so.

08-11-2009, 11:39 PM
Top of the engine. Dots on each piston facing front of the motor as indicated in install instructions.

08-11-2009, 11:42 PM
At this point I have installed the detonation sensor, and the thermostat housing. Plus the oil pick-up, oil pump, oil pan gasket and oil pan. I've also cleaned the block surface. I've slid my cometic gasket into position and am ready to install the passenger side head.

The red circle on the thermostat housing interferes with the installation of this head. Because that is super annoying, and I know I will have the heads off this thing again, I actually ground down the corner of the thermostat housing with a dremel tool. I also took a little off the part on the head that interferes and now it slides on and off nicely. This can take a lot of time, but it's worth it IMO.

08-11-2009, 11:47 PM
Both heads were put on, and next we are sticking in the lifters. I used a big magnet to pick-up and place the lifters. I also used a small amount of assembly grease on each lifter before putting them in place.

08-12-2009, 10:35 AM
Here we have the camshafts being installed on the driver's side. All cam journals and the cams had a little bit of assembly grease applied before tightening the journals. Followed service manual for torque amount and torque sequence.

08-12-2009, 09:08 PM
Put in some new cam shaft seals.

09-17-2009, 10:04 AM
Well, I'll add some more pics soon, but basically I took the Z out to the Drag Strip on this past Friday - on my first pass that I actually did a burnout [second pass of the night for me] the Z ran an 11.331 ET. I'll post the slip some day when I get it scanned.

09-19-2009, 12:36 PM
(My Z running an 11.02 ET)

New personal best. Yes yes, I will still finish posting pics of my build at some point.

09-21-2009, 12:02 PM
Right, so here is the 11.02 time slip from Calgary. Man, sure wish I made this pass in Edmonton. For obvious reasons...;)



Also here is an 11.04 pass:


Edit, I can't figure out why the IMG tag doesn't work. Click the link for the damn slip. Stupid Internet.

09-21-2009, 04:26 PM
I bought an RPS Clutch, RPS Segmented Flywheel and a 6-puck disc to use with my 5 speed. So it was all new - and I still have it all new and unused, never installed it. Decided to go a different route with the transmission. But here is that RPS stuff anyhow! (Well, the flywheel and disc)



09-21-2009, 08:26 PM
Right, so I had one of the very early style Greg Dupree split down pipes on the Z that I bought many years ago. Decided that now would be an obvious and good time to upgrade to the newer style super splits. So, those went on the car as well.


09-22-2009, 08:17 PM
So more build stuff. Painted the three timing belt covers, and here the timing belt is on, and starting to put on the covers. T-stat is in, and so is the water pump.


Covers are all on, crank angle sensor (CAS) installed, put on the coolant pipes and now it's ready to have the exhaust manifolds, turbos, downpipes put on.


12-12-2009, 09:13 PM
These are the Mike Smith manifolds that were on the car. They were actually already on the car from previous build, but I didn't post pictures of them. So here are the original pictures I took when they were new.



12-12-2009, 09:30 PM
Passenger side exhaust manifold, turbo, and downpipe all attached.
Rinse and repeat for the other side.


12-12-2009, 09:37 PM
In went a manually shifted automatic TH400 transmission. (Very fun!)


Here's the tranny being assembled. You have to use an adapter plate, and a TT auto bellhousing - which you've got to put together - and also you need to install speed sensor.


Here is the speed sensor getting installed.


I kept my 5 speed manual transmission. It is in perfect working order, and some day I might want to revert back. Though now that I've got this in and have driven it, I doubt that will ever ever ever happen. :devil:

08-20-2011, 10:43 PM
So I made some small changes, but now I'm back to a canned 100 octane tune. I need to get the Z tuned properly, and hopefully that will be the trick to getting the Z in to the damn 10's.


First pass on August 19th, 2011.

08-20-2011, 11:02 PM

Second pass (and last 1/4 mile pass) on August 19th, 2011.

Cut a nearly perfect light on this pass, and had a good hard launch. Car went pretty good.

I won't bother going back to the track until it is tuned properly for the fuel I want to run.