good b18 turbo question.

[white rice]

okay all you honkies, can some of you guys tell me how you ran you oil and coolant lines from you motor to your turbo. some pics would be nice, and also i have a foctory ctr oil cooloer on my b18a block, but i dont know which pipe is coolant in and which is cooland out.

help anyone.


thanks

[h22aseller]

you run the oil from the pressure sender (usually just above or below the oil filter or around there somewhere) by installing a t-fitting before the sender and screwing the sender back into that. then you run the line from there to the turbo oil in line, and i ran the oil straight back to the oil pan, not sure how you'd go about piping it to the oil cooler.

[vegas2005baby]

the proper way to run the oil lines is to tap off the back of the block with a bsp-to npt fitting (honda blocks are British style pipe thread, all the other fittings out there are national style) its above the oil filter. Then run a short oil line to the firewall, and mount the Tee there, run a line to your turbo, and use the other opening for your stock oil pressure sender (you can get a fitting for here too since the oil pressure sender is BSP thread, but most guys don't, they just thread it in there real good) by the way, the fitting size is 1/8th.

for drain just drill a hole in your oil pan and get a bung brazed to it, make sure the hole is above the normal oil level in the pan, and below the output of the turbo, also make sure there aint no kinks in that line.

for coolant lines, most people just T off of the TB coolant lines, but I don't like the idea of heating up the incoming air, so I don't run water cooler lines. just make sure you block off the holes in the turbo with brass plugs if your gona do the same. :)

[legendboy]

Originally posted by vegas2005baby
the proper way to run the oil lines is to tap off the back of the block with a bsp-to npt fitting (honda blocks are British style pipe thread, all the other fittings out there are national style)

This sounds like some honda-tech bandwagoneering here at beyond.ca :rolleyes:

NPT fittings work just fine.


Here is how I ran my oil return. Not sure if that helps at all.

http://www.telusplanet.net/public/thanem/install/Picture%20007.jpg

[Primer_Drift]

NPT + liquid pipe sealer.:thumbsup:
I ran the coolant from the factory cooler, to the turbo and back to the block also. It doesnt matter which is in or out, flow direction is not important for the coolant half of the turbo cooling.
Main thing for oil return line is that it must be above the oil pan (no part of the bend should be below oil level) or a scavenging system will be needed to pump it into the pan.

[white rice]

great thanks guys,

primer drift i was wondering if you could send me a pic of your oiling line from the back of the engine to your turbo because the first pic is great. also where can i buy those npt fittings for a decent proce. i am a poor ass student so i need them cheep.

thanks boys

[finboy]

Originally posted by white rice
great thanks guys,

primer drift i was wondering if you could send me a pic of your oiling line from the back of the engine to your turbo because the first pic is great. also where can i buy those npt fittings for a decent proce. i am a poor ass student so i need them cheep.

thanks boys

i got my fittings through mopac, but they weren't cheap. one fitting was $26, it cost more then my braided line :banghead:

[Primer_Drift]

Sorry I can't engine isnt at home, but perhaps Legendboy who posted his pic, has one of his oil sending line. Its really simple, take your standard honda oil pressure sensor to home depot, and match it up with an npt pipe fitting. I used a pipe T and a collar insert to plug into the pressure sensor hole, the sensor went on the bottom of the T, and a -standard (referred to dash standard; -8AN, -10AN, etc.. not sure what size I used) stainless line with npt adapter to run oil to my turbo. Bring your npt T fitting to mopac (or similar performance shop) and have them match it up with earls fittings and braided steel -standard line.

[white rice]

cool thanks

one last quicky what diameter did you run into the turbo ad what diameter out ot the turbo.

how r u programming your fuel?

[Primer_Drift]

I think its -10AN return line (must be as big as possible, not smaller than output hole on bottom of the turbo), and -3AN sending line with 2 fittings (1/8" NPT x -3AN).
I used AEM (poorly) and am now rebuilding, a lot of ppl on here have hondata or uberdata.

[legendboy]

This is what you need to oil your turbo off the top of my head:

Aeroquip/Earls fittings:

Oil Feed
4 x 1/8NPT to -3AN (or -4AN)
1 x 1/8NPT Tee
1 x 24" -3AN Braided line (or -4AN)
1 x 32" -3AN Braided line (or -4AN)

Oil Return 1 (Expensive > $100) - pictured above
1 x 12" -12AN Braided line
1 x -10AN Bulkhead fitting
1 x Bulkhead nut with teflon washers
1 x 45degree -10AN swivel fitting
2 x -12AN Compression fitting
1 x -10AN to 5/8NPT
1 x T3 oil drain flange with gasket.

Oil Return 2 (Cheap < $50)
1 x Steel -10AN weldable barbed fitting - Generic brand
1 x 5/8NPT to -10AN Brass barbed fitting - Generic brand
1 x 12" -12AN Braided line
1 x T3 oil drain flange and gasket.

[legendboy]

To touch on coolant lines.

Most custom turbo setups don't have collant lines setup properly. Guys think that if they tap coolant at the heater hoses or from the throttle body that its working. In all fact this isn't a very good way to do it. I had the coolant setup on my car tapped into the upper and lower rad hoses with an external electric water pump cycling the coolant thru the radiator. That is the proper way.

[Primer_Drift]

^^ Just a side note to coolant lines, this is a longevity thing, coolant actually boils inside the turbo and continues to circulate through the rad due to convection. I spoke with Alamo turbo, and turbonetics and they informed me the coolant lines were not neccesary for turbo cooling while the car was running, but would increase the life of the mid section (impeller shaft, bearings etc) due to the tendency for oil to cake up inside after a hot shutdown.

[legendboy]

Coolant lines or turbo timer. One or the other.

[white rice]

hey since we are on the topic, i still havnt thought of how i am going to run my intake piping. the intake side of the turbo is on the drivers side and i will be runnign a intercooler. so how should i or how did you guys run the piping. and what type of piping should i use. i have access to tig tig so welding is not an issue.

thanks so far for all your help i never knew these forums would be so helpful but the only bad thing is that they take away from my time to wirte my paleo paper. lol

[white rice]

oh ya the cheep awy to run the oil lines, can i buy this crap at home depot or do i have to go to a performance shop?

[Primer_Drift]

Performance shop for the braided line and fittings. Just brass npt fittings u can get at home depot, I've never seen -standard stuff there at all.
Worry about piping when you have your turbo in, and clearences are easily visable. In other words its the last thing you fabricate.
I have a fmic so my pipes went underneath and around the front frame memeber to the IC infront of the rad support.

[white rice]

wow they went under the frame rail you dont scrap on them holy crap.

i built the manifold and the thing is bolted onto the car and everything. i was just asking so i know how much money to save and which parts to buy.

do you have any pics of how you did yours.

[legendboy]

Here are some more pictures from that day, should give you an idea about charge pipes.


http://www.telusplanet.net/public/thanem/install/Picture%20020.jpg


http://www.telusplanet.net/public/thanem/install/Picture%20017.jpg


http://www.telusplanet.net/public/thanem/install/Picture%20019.jpg


http://www.telusplanet.net/public/thanem/install/Picture%20021.jpg


ps. it would be a big mistake to cheap out on your oil lines.

[Primer_Drift]

White rice I think you misunderstood me, they look like legendboy's above. I'll post some pics later.. working with mandrel bends is difficult at first but once you get the radius' worked out its pretty simple.

[vegas2005baby]

Originally posted by legendboy


This sounds like some honda-tech bandwagoneering here at beyond.ca :rolleyes:

NPT fittings work just fine.


Here is how I ran my oil return. Not sure if that helps at all.

http://www.telusplanet.net/public/thanem/install/Picture%20007.jpg


Umm, sure, if you wana risk wrecking the threads on the back of your block, go ahead. The thread pitch IS BSP, and the fitting is only 12 bucks at hose headquarters, doesn't seem like a big problem to me. I know your the legend, the boy, whatever, but theres a right way, and a -ok- way.

whiterice, you can get a very nice oil line kit from www.stealthmodeperformance.com for a very good price.

[legendboy]

Trust me buddy, NPT is perfectly fine, doesn't matter how many times you switch back and forth the oil pressure sending unit with a 1/8NPT fitting, it won't strip, wreck, disfigure in any way. This is speaking from experience.

If you knew how much difference there is between 1/8NPT and 1/8BSP you would know I'm right. The nature of pipe itself sees to it that nothing needs to be screwed in too far and damage is very unavoidable. You will wreck your pipe threads if you screw anything into it too far.

[vegas2005baby]

Originally posted by legendboy
Trust me buddy, NPT is perfectly fine, doesn't matter how many times you switch back and forth the oil pressure sending unit with a 1/8NPT fitting, it won't strip, wreck, disfigure in any way. This is speaking from experience.

If you knew how much difference there is between 1/8NPT and 1/8BSP you would know I'm right. The nature of pipe itself sees to it that nothing needs to be screwed in too far and damage is very unavoidable. You will wreck your pipe threads if you screw anything into it too far.

Trust me Dude, There is a risk, I have felt the differences between the two (by attempting to thread one into the other) first hand, its alot more difficult and you can't thread one into the other as much as you can if you were to use 2 of the same type.

I have witnessed the results of this aswell, I"m experiencing a small 'sweaty' leak, from what I believe to be caused by threading a BSPT fitting into a NPT fitting. I used teflon and raped it the correct way just like I do one every other connection, and this is the only leak.

its only 12 dollars anyway for the fitting.

[Primer_Drift]

Originally posted by vegas2005baby


I have witnessed the results of this aswell, I&quot;m experiencing a small 'sweaty' leak, from what I believe to be caused by threading a BSPT fitting into a NPT fitting. I used teflon and raped it the correct way just like I do one every other connection, and this is the only leak.

its only 12 dollars anyway for the fitting.

I agree with you that the BSPT will fit better, but you made a big mistake using teflon tape. Only liquid teflon should be used for that application, and left to "cure" for at least 24 hours.

[legendboy]

Originally posted by vegas2005baby


Trust me Dude, There is a risk, I have felt the differences between the two (by attempting to thread one into the other) first hand, its alot more difficult and you can't thread one into the other as much as you can if you were to use 2 of the same type.

I have witnessed the results of this aswell, I&quot;m experiencing a small 'sweaty' leak, from what I believe to be caused by threading a BSPT fitting into a NPT fitting. I used teflon and raped it the correct way just like I do one every other connection, and this is the only leak.

its only 12 dollars anyway for the fitting.


a little fyi, brass fittings arn't really recomended. The brass fittings can easily snap off in the block. I guarantee i have done this WAY more times than you have. Maybe the difference is I don't use cheap ass fittings.

Next time you should look into spending a bit on some good aeroquip/earls fittings. And I can screw at least half the threads by hand using 1/8NPT aeroquip fittings. I use thoes brass fittings for boost gauges ...etc... and i can tell you that the amount of thread pitch for screwing into the block is wrong. (+ they look ghetto) and I don't know what you guys are talking about, teflon tape works perfectly!!!! :dunno:

This is what you should be using!


http://www.amstreetrod.com/AluminumAdapters/m991701ERL.jpghttp://www.amstreetrod.com/AluminumAdapters/m981603ERL.jpg

http://www.amstreetrod.com/EarlsHoses/f300003ERL.jpg

[redline]

yeap those brass fitting are junk, mine broke on me, i am running the golden eagle vtec conversion kit now

[Primer_Drift]

Originally posted by legendboy

This is what you should be using!


http://www.amstreetrod.com/AluminumAdapters/m991701ERL.jpghttp://www.amstreetrod.com/AluminumAdapters/m981603ERL.jpg


Hmm didnt know earls made the aluminum npt t fittings (isnt brass stronger than aluminum??) I guess I should pick some up. Teflon tape is baaaad, ask Sean at Alamo why you shouldnt use the tape. Liquid is so much easier anyways, why fart around with wrapping tape?

[legendboy]

Never had a problem man. Sean is probably just concerned with some of the tape ending up in the cartrige.

[vegas2005baby]

I've never had a problem with brass, or heard of brass fittings not being recomended, infact a forum that I frequent refers to them solely has "Brass Tee" but I will look into those fancy purple things when building a customers cars, just for shits and giggles. I"m not about to go out out and spend a million dollars on a steal braided line either, the high pressure hydaulic house I"m using is higher quality then whats equiped on factory cars anyway, not to mention that it is 'steel braided' just not on the outside. :D.

BY the way legendboy, how did you over boost on your last engine?:)

[legendboy]

Originally posted by vegas2005baby
BY the way legendboy, how did you over boost on your last engine?:)

Flakey GM wastegate control solenoid is about the only thing I can come up with. It was working fine for a couple days, then booya! 25psi!

[Daintegra1527]

i have a t25 turbo looking to see what i should use for my lines coming in and out of the turbo. which fiitings would some of you all use? i see earl fittings a lot. also what would you all recommend boosting 6psi? i was thinking for sure doing 6 pounds on the stock motor. let me know thanks so much

Brandon

Da