Why is my coolant BOILING??

[Weapon_R]

I just got home and found steam coming out of my overfill container. The coolant in the overfill container is boiling. Not hot, but boiling, bubbles and all.

What the hell just happened?

[QuasarCav]

Really low on coolant?

an old Mazda turbo I owned used to do that often, I found out the rad fan didn't work at all and there was little or no coolant left. Either way, it's not a good thing.

[Dirty_SOHC]

Originally posted by Weapon_R
I just got home and found steam coming out of my overfill container. The coolant in the overfill container is boiling. Not hot, but boiling, bubbles and all.

What the hell just happened?

did your reservoir overflow? or stayed with the limits?

[sabad66]

Did you notice the temp. gauge a little hotter than normal?

[Deetz]

I might be wise to get a coolent flush and get any loose crap (or calcium deposits) out of your system so the fuild flows freely thoughout your rad, heater core and engine.

[Primer_Drift]

^^ all of the above, plus did you check your coolant - water mix? Too much anti-freeze lowers your coolant boiling point.

[JustinL]

Is it boiling hot or just bubbles?

IF it's not hot, it may be a blown headgasket that is forcing air into your coolant. I think there is a kit you can buy at napa that will test for exhaust gasses in your coolant.

[legendboy]

Your head gasket is leaking. You HAVE to have ARP head studs in any FI honda. Its a must have.

[Weapon_R]

Originally posted by QuasarCav
Really low on coolant?

an old Mazda turbo I owned used to do that often, I found out the rad fan didn't work at all and there was little or no coolant left. Either way, it's not a good thing.

Coolant levels are fine


Originally posted by Dirty_SOHC


did your reservoir overflow? or stayed with the limits?

No overflowing at all


Originally posted by sabad66
Did you notice the temp. gauge a little hotter than normal?

Not really anything out of the ordinary.


Originally posted by legendboy
Your head gasket is leaking. You HAVE to have ARP head studs in any FI honda. Its a must have.

Fuck.

Where can I get some?

[Primer_Drift]

That makes sense, forgot you were FI. Mopac

[Weapon_R]

Legendboy:

I did a quick search on H-T.com...I know I need ARP bolts, but i'm not sure that its the headgasket. At least I want to try everything else first :(

http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=267818 - describes the exact problem.

Oh, by the way, my radiator cap gasket is ruined. Some say that a bad cap will lower your boiling point.

[Weapon_R]

Originally posted by JustinL
Is it boiling hot or just bubbles?

IF it's not hot, it may be a blown headgasket that is forcing air into your coolant. I think there is a kit you can buy at napa that will test for exhaust gasses in your coolant.

No it was boilage. Boiling to the point where the steam was being produced from the antifreeze.

[QuasarCav]

Originally posted by Weapon_R
Legendboy:

I did a quick search on H-T.com...I know I need ARP bolts, but i'm not sure that its the headgasket. At least I want to try everything else first :(

http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=267818 - describes the exact problem.

Oh, by the way, my radiator cap gasket is ruined. Some say that a bad cap will lower your boiling point.


Rad cap keeps your system pressurized. Bad cap= lower boiling temp.

[Primer_Drift]

A bad rad cap causes the coolant pressure and temperature to build up. The cap acts as a release valve for the heat expansion of the coolant, releasing excess pressure and fluid into the overflow bottle. It won't lower your boiling point, but it sure will increase coolant temps. I think legendboy is right on the money, but change the cap and see what happens.

[legendboy]

My money is on the head gasket since your car is supercharged but I suppose it could be your thermostat also. Make sure you spend the 35 bux on a honda thermostat, don't get a cheap one.

Also, check to see if it only overheats when your at a stand still and if it cools down when you start driving. If thats the case one of the fan switches needs to be replaced.

Let me know if you need the hg/t-belt and headstuds done. I've done tons of them. ARP's are about $150. I can get you the rest of the parts at cost from Acura.

A side note, when i said your head gasket is leaking, its actually your headstuds that have stretched due to higher than normal cylinder pressures. The gasket is usually fine but does need replacing when the head is removed. You might as well do your timing belt at the same time also since it will be removed also.

[JustinL]

Originally posted by Primer_Drift
^^ all of the above, plus did you check your coolant - water mix? Too much anti-freeze lowers your coolant boiling point.

I think you have this backwards. More ethylene glycol in the water will raise the boiling point.

Try having someone stand behind your car when you start it and put their hand behind the exhaust. Fire it up and check if coolant is coming out. Alternatively, pressurize the cooling system and se if it's leaking. Or, buy a headgasket test kit and test your coolant (this is the best test).

[Primer_Drift]

^^^ Heh right you are, it raises BP and lowers FP.. dunno what I was thinking..

[legendboy]

weapon_r your pm box is full!

[THREE40SEVEN]

Originally posted by Primer_Drift
A bad rad cap causes the coolant pressure and temperature to build up. The cap acts as a release valve for the heat expansion of the coolant, releasing excess pressure and fluid into the overflow bottle. It won't lower your boiling point, but it sure will increase coolant temps. I think legendboy is right on the money, but change the cap and see what happens.
Having pressure in a coolant system will raise the boiling point. Expect approx 40-45 degrees F higher boiling point with a 15lb cap.

[gorillam]

Originally posted by Weapon_R
I just got home and found steam coming out of my overfill container. The coolant in the overfill container is boiling. Not hot, but boiling, bubbles and all.

What the hell just happened?


Do you have a pressure cap, make sure you are getting the proper pressure in your rad or it's just gunna boil fast...

I think every psi you put into the tank adds like 3Deg celcius to the boiling point.

[gorillam]

I jsut read that your cap is ruined, that is exactly why it's boiling.
From my knowledge.. you better get that replaced fixed and get the pressure back in that rad.

[Weapon_R]

Originally posted by gorillam
I jsut read that your cap is ruined, that is exactly why it's boiling.
From my knowledge.. you better get that replaced fixed and get the pressure back in that rad.

i've bought another rad cap so i'm going to try that.

I hate to avoid the impending HG issue, but i'm going to try the $20 and $30 dollar fixes first (just got a rad cap and thermo to start, after that i'll bend and do the HG).

Corey, PM me agian. Box is cleared.

[finboy]

quick question since arp studs have been brought up, do you have to pull the head on a honda to instal them or can you just notch them for a flat head and use a flat head?

[Primer_Drift]

You can turn them with an allen key, but its important to turn them in by hand. It is possible to put them in with the head on but its not recommended.

[legendboy]

I noticed that b series vtec arp's don't have the alen ends while the non vtec ones have alen heads on the two long ones?!

I also did the hg and studs on superesc's turbo teg a while ago and one of the arp nuts wasn't threaded!!!! lol Lucky i one from another set of arp's i have kicking around.

[finboy]

Originally posted by Primer_Drift
You can turn them with an allen key, but its important to turn them in by hand. It is possible to put them in with the head on but its not recommended.

hmm, any idea why this is?

[legendboy]

arp studs are not suppose to bottom out in the hole. If you bottom them out by over tightening them will not "stretch" properly. So tightening by hand it is!

[finboy]

Originally posted by legendboy
arp studs are not suppose to bottom out in the hole. If you bottom them out by over tightening them will not "stretch"properly. So tightening by hand it is!

could you just not tighten them down the whole way? replacing studs seems SOOO much less time consuming then pulling the head

[legendboy]

No, if you bottom them out they will not provide the proper holding capacity.

Most modern all metal head gaskets are only meant to be crushed once. They have crush zones around the cylinder bores that flatten out when the head is tightened down. If you try and reuse the crushed gasket you increase the chance of the gasket itself leaking. So if you untorque the head, the gasket should be replaced.

[legendboy]

From ARP's site
Studs also provide more accurate and consistent torque loading. Here’s why. When you use bolts to secure the head, the fastener is actually being “twisted” while it’s being torqued to the proper reading. Accordingly, the bolt is reacting to two different forces simultaneously. A stud should be installed in a “relaxed” mode—never crank it in tightly using a jammed nut.

If everything is right, the stud should be installed finger tight. Then, when applying torque to the nut, the stud will stretch only on the vertical axis. Remember, an undercut shorter stud will have a rate similar to a longer, standard shank stud. This provides a more even clamping force on the head. Because the head gasket will compress upon initial torquing, make sure studs and bolts are re-torqued after the engine has been run.

[finboy]

Originally posted by legendboy
No, if you bottom them out they will not provide the proper holding capacity.

Most modern all metal head gaskets are only meant to be crushed once. They have crush zones around the cylinder bores that flatten out when the head is tightened down. If you try and reuse the crushed gasket you increase the chance of the gasket itself leaking. So if you untorque the head, the gasket should be replaced.

hmm, i was thinking of doing a slip/slide for the gasket and only lifting the head about an inch, guess the head might as well come off.

[seer_claw]

T-I.net has an article on various coolant problems with the gen3's. You might want to check it out.

Team Integra (http://www.team-integra.net/forum/display_topic_threads.asp?ForumID=7&TopicID=84739&PagePosition=1)

[AllGoNoShow]

Originally posted by Primer_Drift
A bad rad cap causes the coolant pressure and temperature to build up. The cap acts as a release valve for the heat expansion of the coolant, releasing excess pressure and fluid into the overflow bottle. It won't lower your boiling point, but it sure will increase coolant temps. I think legendboy is right on the money, but change the cap and see what happens.

Good cap holds the pressure at 15-17lbs pressure, every 1lb of pressure = 1.5c or so the boiling point goes up, it doesnt increase pressure if u have a bad cap, it decreases it, causing it to loose pressure, which measn lowering the boiling point.

Edited ;)

[finboy]

Originally posted by AllGoNoShow


Fucking moron, good cap holds the pressure at 15-17lbs pressure, every 1lb of pressure = 1.5c or so the boiling point goes up, it doesnt increase pressure if u have a bad cap, it decreases it, causing it to loose pressure, which measn lowering the boiling point.

no need for personal insults man :thumbsdow

[Primer_Drift]

Originally posted by AllGoNoShow


Fucking moron, good cap holds the pressure at 15-17lbs pressure, every 1lb of pressure = 1.5c or so the boiling point goes up, it doesnt increase pressure if u have a bad cap, it decreases it, causing it to loose pressure, which measn lowering the boiling point.

:thumbsup: PM sent.

[AllGoNoShow]

Replied to aswell

[4DoorGTZ]

My Money is on the cap as well. I've had this happen to me in the past, $10 rad cap fixed it. Of course being FI could cause other probs.

[custommx]

Had the same problem im FI it was just a rad cap always the last thing you think of. Some guy told me that it was because all "spoon" engines overheat and that I needed a bigger intercooler. Dumb geezer

[rhiebert]

One more idea - besides the cap and a flush, use Propylene Glycol Antifreeze.

[Fuji]

Originally posted by Weapon_R


i've bought another rad cap so i'm going to try that.

I hate to avoid the impending HG issue, but i'm going to try the $20 and $30 dollar fixes first (just got a rad cap and thermo to start, after that i'll bend and do the HG).

Corey, PM me agian. Box is cleared.

being cheap is gonna cost you more later. I guarantee it. Don't let us say I told you so.

[ricosuave]

so, weapon, what was it?

[Weapon_R]

Originally posted by ricosuave
so, weapon, what was it?


It was the head bolts..