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gnarkill
12-14-2004, 10:27 PM
i was wondering if any one knew a good cheap place to get my car repainted the same color, i wount be getting it painted inside of the doors or the inside of the trunk. i would like to pay as little as possible.

Skylinelover
12-14-2004, 10:33 PM
Inside of the doors?

gnarkill
12-14-2004, 10:37 PM
ya your exterior paint carries inside the doors a little ill find a pic for you to show u further detail

gnarkill
12-14-2004, 10:48 PM
there is a pic with text above where i dont want to get re painted

DUBBED
12-14-2004, 10:51 PM
so basically you want the whole exterior resprayed. No door jams underhood etc.

MAACO.

gnarkill
12-14-2004, 10:53 PM
yes exactly, how much is maaco

DUBBED
12-14-2004, 10:54 PM
depends, $300 for them to spray right over your existing paint.

Or $1500 for them to do half-ass body work and respray.

sabad66
12-14-2004, 11:09 PM
That cheap hey? With 2 stage paint?

gnarkill
12-14-2004, 11:13 PM
ya super cheap haha ya, just basic paint job

DUBBED
12-14-2004, 11:25 PM
Originally posted by sabad66
That cheap hey? With 2 stage paint?


I'm not sure, call them and find out.

gnarkill
12-15-2004, 12:25 AM
well sad to say in medicine hat we dont have a macoo but i would be willing to drive to clagary to get it painted if the price was right

camero
12-15-2004, 12:26 AM
where is maaco in calgary?

gnarkill
12-15-2004, 12:27 AM
couldnt tell you, some one will know

Hash_man
12-15-2004, 02:02 AM
I think there's one just off blackfoot... opposite side as shaw gmc.

7thgenvic
12-15-2004, 02:21 AM
i wouldn't let maaco touch any of my cars! do it yourself! cost me 270 bux to paint my winter beater! learned alot and know some stuff to do next time i paint my the thing again! but turned out better than i expected to im happy!!!

gnarkill
12-15-2004, 07:24 PM
Originally posted by 7thgenvic
i wouldn't let maaco touch any of my cars! do it yourself! cost me 270 bux to paint my winter beater! learned alot and know some stuff to do next time i paint my the thing again! but turned out better than i expected to im happy!!!


where did you get your supplies from? and what kind of paint did you use.

i was thinkign of sanding it down and letting a profeshional paint it for cheap

7thgenvic
12-15-2004, 07:46 PM
i went toooo, god now i forget the place, its around 51st. sw! i'll get the address for you! but go in there tell them what you need, and their'll get everything that you need! and why get a professional to paint the car, do it yourself!!! just make sure you wetsand!!!!!!! or the paint doesn't dry smooth! and with most professional guns yoyu don't have to worry about doing a bad job, especailly if you want to learn how to painT

gnarkill
12-15-2004, 07:49 PM
ya thanks for the advice.
i was kinda leanign towards doing it myself to save money
if anyone has some other tips that would be asome to

djayz
12-15-2004, 09:02 PM
thats a nice interior you got

and doing it yourself would be the way to go just prepare the area well with tape etc. and im sure there are places where you can rent a spray paint gun like home depot

Skylinelover
12-15-2004, 09:17 PM
Originally posted by 7thgenvic
i went toooo, god now i forget the place, its around 51st. sw! i'll get the address for you! but go in there tell them what you need, and their'll get everything that you need! and why get a professional to paint the car, do it yourself!!! just make sure you wetsand!!!!!!! or the paint doesn't dry smooth! and with most professional guns yoyu don't have to worry about doing a bad job, especailly if you want to learn how to painT

How much did it cost in total?

autospeed
12-15-2004, 09:52 PM
Originally posted by 7thgenvic
i went toooo, god now i forget the place, its around 51st. sw! i'll get the address for you! but go in there tell them what you need, and their'll get everything that you need! and why get a professional to paint the car, do it yourself!!! just make sure you wetsand!!!!!!! or the paint doesn't dry smooth! and with most professional guns yoyu don't have to worry about doing a bad job, especailly if you want to learn how to painT


you just have to know what you're doing. simple as that. dry sanding can accomplish the same level of smoothness once your paint is laid. the only difference is the quality of the color (ie depth and shine) is affected by how and what grit you sanded with. Honestly come down to AAA Auto Repair, get a quote and be straight up honest about the job you want. for 1500 they'll give you good quality body work and a decent paint job. minus the door and trunk jams just like you want. i would never trust maaco with a paint job the morons fucked up one of my friends' cars and now he's goin thru a legal battle to get the car back cause they did un-authorized work and tried charging him for it.

autospeed
12-15-2004, 09:55 PM
i'll get pics of a firebird that was painted stock silver with body work (rear quarter panel) at the shop. should have them up later this week. but definately do ur research and i would stay away from maaco. good luck:thumbsup:

as for doing it yourself it'll definately be time consuming and you need to really be carefull.

gnarkill
12-15-2004, 10:49 PM
Originally posted by djayz
thats a nice interior you got

and doing it yourself would be the way to go just prepare the area well with tape etc. and im sure there are places where you can rent a spray paint gun like home depot

haha thanks but thats just a sweet 240sx i pulled off the computer. i have a spray gun and tape just dont have the paint

gnarkill
12-15-2004, 10:54 PM
ya i hear some bad stuff about macoo there comercails even sound cheap. i think i might just do it myself for the experence and maybe make me a summer job out of it or sumthing. i am going to do resaerch before i even start. ill wait for some more advice off this thread and the what not to do's.

autospeed
12-16-2004, 12:19 AM
hmmm tips. well do not jump in and start sanding with a machine. lol, sounds simple but you have no idea how many ppl have tried. grab a nice sanding block, you're paint supply store should carry plenty of em, and if you have a vid or someone who can show you how to sand it go for it. Take your time and don't rush. Wet sanding isn't 100% necessary especially if all you want is just a nice decent shiny paint job. For all those that doubt this the majority of shops when the do "decent" paint jobs will dry sand the car with 320 or 400 grit paper on a machine, and after the prep its painted. no wetsand. it's when you get a high end paint job that the shop will actually wet sand the entire car by hand to make sure its perfect, partially why an expensive paint job is what it is(lots of labour). When you buy your paint materials get the primer at the same time (in case you sand too much or you fill in some dings and need it to cover the putty) this is because for a decent finish most paint manufacturers recomend you use their primer. It's not the end of the world if you don't, but in a lot of cases it is often cheaper (thru my suppliers anyways lol) and generally your finish should turn out just a little bit better. I tend to stay away from rattle can anything. Sealer, primer paint all in cans mixed for your gun. best way to go. :thumbsup:

gnarkill
12-16-2004, 10:08 PM
thanks alot what grit of sandpaper do u recommend i use?

autospeed
12-17-2004, 02:46 AM
hmm depends on how the body/paint is. If you're just sanding the paint i'd say 220 first then 320 (dry). If there is rust thats' another deal or if you've used body filler thats different as well. Let me know if you've done any body work prior to this and then i can say if u need different grits (like if you used body filler) if not then yea start with 220 and after that's done go over it with 320. (the higher the grit the finer the paper).

If you want to wetsand the car i would say after you've sanded with the 220 and primered the body where ever you needed to then move to the wet 400. Make sure you use a block to sand with and not your hand. You naturally will apply more force through your fingers and will get a nasty sand job because of it. It's simple to say use the palm of your hand, when sanding like that, but its still easy to mess up.

djayz
12-17-2004, 02:55 AM
Great tips autospeed
will help me out too when i decide to paint the car...

is it cool to do all this in a home garage or would a paint booth be better since theres no dust and other things floating around in the air?

autospeed
12-17-2004, 03:05 AM
ideally a booth would work well. but isn't 100% necessary for the sanding stage. the biggest limitation of not doing it in a shop or rented booth is that you generally don't have access to compressed air. Since i work in a body shop i can honestly say that's the one thing during sanding you really need because a high volume high pressure air compressor can blow off a huge amount of the dust.

If you do decide to do this in ur home garage its not a prob. just make sure you wipe off the majority of the dust with a slightly damp cloth (make sure everything is primered lol). Then when you take the car to the booth to spray the paint. Make sure that before the car is sprayed that all the dust has been blown off the body and in the door jambs as well as any other nooks and notches and such in the body work. THis is because anydust left behind can be blown out of there during the paint spraying and ruin the job. Using the air compressor at the shop with the booth will get rid of this.

autospeed
12-17-2004, 03:09 AM
Also right before painting make sure that you've wiped the car down with a wax/grease remover aka fast evaporating cleaner. NOT paint thinner, even tho similar things might be written on the can. Again any quality paint supplier will carry cleaners such as this and the lint free cloths to go along with them. What this final step does is remove any fine particles of dust or dirt from the body of the car.

Finally after the above step use a tag rag (sticky cloth) again from ur paint supplier to remove any fine dust. When you do this, do not, DO NOT press hard. This cloth is sticky and when pressed hard against the body will defeat its purpose by leaving its glue residue behind. Lightly wipe down the body with this cloth incl. the paper used to mask off the trim and glass because it too cannot have dust on it.

lol that was a lot typing hopefully i did explain enough of the details to you guys to give you a good idea of what it takes. good luck:thumbsup: and definately post your pics on here once its done.

7thgenvic
12-17-2004, 03:24 AM
FUCKKKKKK using sanding blocks that will take a longggg ass time! get a power sander! and don't waste your money on a wax/grease remover, get DISH soap, you don't need anything more then that! one thing before you paint is a product called wash and wipe!

autospeed
12-17-2004, 03:31 AM
dish soap? hahaha good one. but i said blocks over power sanding cause if you've never done it before a power sander can easily screw up the existing paint on the car (which is to be used as part of the base) as well as leaving small waves in it.

maximus
12-17-2004, 02:28 PM
Actually dish soap works well. Then even Windex will work for removing the grease. But tack cloth definately a must. As long as you have a good compressor and gun you're set. But definitely use a block rather than a machine. The machine can cause way more work for yourself if you havn't used it before.

Remember this is a garage job. The whole purpose is to cut down the cost so there are other alternatives to the pricey professional stuff. And if you are painting in your garage there will be dust no matter what you do, so why waste your time and money with pricey chemicals??

I painted my bug shell few months back. It was only my second attempt. I stipped mine down to bare metal though. I made sure to get all the dust off and spent a lot of time blowing air and cleaning. I expected some dust to end up while it was drying and such but it actually turned out awesome. Up close very few dust particles in the paint. But I have to do a couple more coats so hopefully that will remain true! I'm using a one stage paint.

All it takes is time. If you have time to spare go for it. If it comes out shitty sand back down and get it professionally done. If you take your time and don't cut corners it will turn out awesome.

http://www.ucalgary.ca/~mborrell/bug1.JPG
http://www.ucalgary.ca/~mborrell/bug2.JPG
http://www.ucalgary.ca/~mborrell/bug3.JPG
http://www.ucalgary.ca/~mborrell/bug4.JPG

Rockski
12-17-2004, 02:34 PM
^ lovin the 5 gallon buckets to hold the body up man:D :thumbsup:

futurecivic
12-17-2004, 03:14 PM
definetly use sanding blocks after all the work is done you dont wasnt it to look wavey i took autobody at sait listen to
autospeed knows what hes talking about just take your time it pays off in the end

autospeed
12-17-2004, 09:36 PM
yea with all the chemical stuff i might have said a lot but keep in mind i'm used to workin in the shop, lol sorry guys. But I know from experience if you're keeping the costs down by doing it yourself you'll realise that the majority of a paint job's expenses come from the labour. , so spending a few extra $$ on a couple of things won't hurt too much.

he did mention the option of renting a spray booth, which is why i mentioned using the autobody supplies, however if you are doing a garage job then yea the expensive chemicals might be just a waste because dust will be un-avoidable, but the prep is extremely important regardless of where it's being painted. And awsome pics of the beetle.

Also forgot to mention the other choice you have of the one stage paint (acrylic enamel) and the two stage (basecoat/ clearcoat) the second being the pricier as well as requiring more skill in the application.

gnarkill
12-18-2004, 12:56 AM
definatley take my time and not cheap out on supplies forsure

maximus
12-18-2004, 01:04 AM
Originally posted by Rockski
^ lovin the 5 gallon buckets to hold the body up man:D :thumbsup:

:thumbsup: Didn't want to build saw horses. This works just as well. You'd be surprised how light a beetle shell is.

Autospeed I totally agree with what you are saying though. Those proper chemicals should be used but if you are not using professional equipment/environment the best chemicals in the world won't help! I spent over $300 on professional stripper alone. After good quality paint systems and such it can add up. The supplies arn't cheap for us non-professionals. But ya all that stuff you said should be used ideally. Probably makes a bigger difference for pros though which I am not.

I decided to use single stage because thats more of the finish the beetles had. I would think that base/clear would be easier though because you can sand between stages to get nice and smooth. Once you apply a caot of a single stage you can't simpy wet sand and buff. You pretty much have to keep spraying untill the coat is perfect. You can fix a dual stage by wetsanding and buffing (the clearcoat) but not a single stage. Once you buff it loses its gloss. I would think that a base/clear would be easier to fix any problems and buff them out just more time consuing :dunno:

Oh ya, and if you use the good stuff make sure you have the proper protective gear. I read the back of those preps and cleaners and they are pretty hard core! Its not like spraying on some soapy water :thumbsup:

digitalshogun
12-18-2004, 02:35 AM
Originally posted by maximus


blah blah blah ... I spent over $300 on professional stripper alone. After good quality ... blah blah blah

I remember there was a night we spent WAY over $300 ... but at least there was more than one stripper. ;)

Really nice lookin' bug by the way.

djayz
12-18-2004, 02:54 PM
would it be a good idea to wash the car after sanding it down or just wipe it down with a damp clothes?

autospeed
12-18-2004, 05:00 PM
if you know for sure there's no exposed metal anywhere and everything is primered or its just the sanded paint then its not a bad idea to just wash it down with water. But if you've just sanded it and are wiping it clean to prime then i would say just a slightly damp or dry cloth. I would go dry to just get rid of most of the dust then damp to pick up what's left.

eeseen racing
12-19-2004, 02:15 PM
ok i worked at maaco if you pay for cheap you get cheap if you pay more you get more i got my car paiunted there and its 4 years and running in perfect condition i payed 1000$ before i wokred there with no bodywork and it is better paint than i have seen come out of other reputable shops.. anyways i do not work there any longer so this is a unbias opinion jut one from somebody who has seen the actual work they do

gnarkill
12-20-2004, 12:07 AM
well you definatley wouldnt want to paint your car right after u sanded it. seeing how there will be paint chips and dust all over it

mazda_maniac
12-25-2004, 12:04 AM
Well thats one thing you gotta try to stay away from with you're color it wont show up bad but with like black or a darker colour any dust will show up like a fuckin wart on your nose.

schurchill39
01-30-2005, 01:07 AM
Yea Jamie we should go 50/50 on supplies and paint both of our cars at the same time to save us even more money haha (and install my kit)

Chris88CL
01-31-2005, 02:33 AM
I have some autobody/painting experience, I just need a garage, compressor and gun to paint my car. Any donations? ;)

yeerj
02-09-2005, 11:03 AM
Try Mr. Touchup on Edmonton Trail, 616-4505. He's fixing body damage and repainting my entire car for $2500. A-1 Autobody quoted me $2600 just to do the body work. I've seen this guys work and its really good. He's currently working on a corvette and just finished a charger.

replayboy
02-09-2005, 11:19 AM
If u r going to spay in a garage where u have been sanding I find wetting the floor with a garden hose and keeping it running while painting will keep the dust down.