PDA

View Full Version : Calgary's Official 5th Gen Lude Thread



Pages : 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 [12] 13 14 15 16 17 18 19

1-Bar
02-05-2006, 06:59 PM
^its true,...but that certain civicdx is a WRX killer!!

Jynx
02-05-2006, 10:21 PM
Just have a question for those of you with leather...

Is there any specific product you guys to treat it with?

Any other tips?

littledan
02-06-2006, 12:48 AM
i really liked the meguirs leather cond. check out my 4th gen seats after like 10 years!!

http://www.ece.ualberta.ca/~kabaroff/parts/23.JPG

http://www.ece.ualberta.ca/~kabaroff/parts/29.jpg

http://www.ece.ualberta.ca/~kabaroff/parts/31.JPG

Jynx
02-06-2006, 06:07 PM
Originally posted by littledan
i really liked the meguirs leather cond. check out my 4th gen seats after like 10 years!!

Those look awsome

Where can i pick this meguirs stuff up from?

Any other suggestions?

richardchan2002
02-06-2006, 06:31 PM
I used the Meguiars too. You can get it at any Canadian Tire.

ryder_23
02-06-2006, 06:35 PM
Originally posted by richardchan2002


And as far as Prelude's being fast. I heard that on the street, an automatic lude isn't even quite as fast as a Civic DX. Not sure how valid that claim is but it should be pretty true I heard it from someone who tried it. lol. ;)

My old car, 95 toyota camry, auto, would give a auto prelude run for its money...so yeah, pretty slow, hehe

D-Man
03-05-2006, 06:10 PM
I use meguaires too, works really well...

As for auto preludes, yes they are slow... Stock is around 135whp and pitiful torque numbers I dare not speak of out loud...

BTW, booked my appointment at STRD for my tranny swap. Car should be rolled into their shop on April 28th:thumbsup:

rorn
03-14-2006, 11:28 AM
Hey all,

Long time, no post. I want to get my engine rebuit.

I have a 98 honda prelude and I am looking for a shop to rebuild my engine. It failed a leak down test at Reg Reimer's shop.

Any suggestions?

Calgary or Edmonton are possible......


Thanks,

rorn

buh_buh
03-14-2006, 01:19 PM
probably Speedtech. I don't know who else I'd even trust with this sort of thing.
Either that, or DIY. Take it apart, send the block out somewhere and have the machine shop reassemble the bottom end once the work's done, then all you have to do is slap the head back on it.

richardchan2002
03-14-2006, 02:38 PM
Are you rebuilding with new internals? For stock internals, I would just go buy a long block. Throw it together and call it a day. With proper tuning, JRSC should be fine with stock internals.

1-Bar
03-14-2006, 11:20 PM
^just like everything.....


STRD sends out there motors to a race shop somewhere in BC. They do fantastic work!

arian_ma
03-15-2006, 01:25 AM
Hey guys, quick question.
Just wondering how much a rebuild with stock parts would cost me?
Or a rebuild with aftermarket parts?

Also, how much would a swap (H22A just a newer one), with only the engine cost? I technically wouldn't need a new ECU/Tranny/ anything else since I have a prelude correct? What if I wanted to do an engine swap + a new clutch?

Looking into this for the future and want to see if it is worth it. Thanks

buh_buh
03-15-2006, 02:43 AM
if your planning on spending the money on a rebuild, I'd opt for aftermarket parts. Like Richard said, if you plan on rebuilding with stock parts, your better off buying a shortblock or longblock (probably easier to find)

arian_ma
03-15-2006, 12:50 PM
Well I was thinking aftermarket, but that could get pricey fast...like 1000+, and if that's the case well then a new engine would be better for me.

richardchan2002
03-15-2006, 01:05 PM
I don't think $1000 will get you very far. Definitely not enough to rebuild or get you a replacement engine... I'd budget at least $2000 to get a replacement engine running in your car.

rorn
03-15-2006, 01:14 PM
Originally posted by 1-Bar
^just like everything.....


STRD sends out there motors to a race shop somewhere in BC. They do fantastic work!

Hey all,

1) I am wanting to increase the boost of the JRSC as high as possible (smallest pulley). Will it ever approach 10psi?

2)If so will I need sleeves?

Whether I do stock internals or rebuild with aftermarket parts will depend on what the stock internals can withstand.

3)Oh yeah, where is STRD?

Thanks,

Rorn

buh_buh
03-15-2006, 01:26 PM
you can definately do the JRSC setup with stock block. It would be kind of a waste to use a JRSC on a sleeved block when you can make more than twice the power. STRD is located in Calgary, on 32nd ave.

richardchan2002
03-15-2006, 01:51 PM
Originally posted by rorn


Hey all,

1) I am wanting to increase the boost of the JRSC as high as possible (smallest pulley). Will it ever approach 10psi?

2)If so will I need sleeves?


1.) I was boosting over 10psi with the motorvations pulley. It's actually a larger pulley (not a smaller one). It replaces the passenger side pulley on the jackshaft. It's pointless to think about boosting past that because your intake air temperatures are already way too high at that boost level - roots style blower limitations.

2.) Like buh_buh said, you will not need to sleeve it. I wouldn't build the motor for JRSC. Leave the money in your bank account! Just pay for some new injectors and tuning. You won't be able to run stock injectors if you up the boost.

Skyline_Addict
03-15-2006, 05:55 PM
hey guys,
I've been having some what I believe to be electrical problems with my car lately. At the begginning, the car would start fine but there have been incidents where the engine would just shut off, most of the time after I got it to run without any problems. Basically the engine would just shut off and throttle response dies. CD player and power steering/braking were still on though. Usually right after this happens and I attempt to restart the car, it does take a few attempts to get it going again... I usually have to rev the engine really high and then engage into gear at like 7k rpm - the engine usually turns off before i'm able to do this until the 4th or 5th try.

After a while it became hard to even start the car - i.e, I could usually get it running before it died, but it was now hard to get it started period. I noticed there was some battery acid forming around the nodes of the battery so I promptly had the battery replaced. There were and have not been any problems starting the car since the new battery, but the engine HAS turned off one or two times while I was driving - again, once this happened, it took half a dozen attempts to get the engine running again, using the same method. Being stuck in the middle of the road having problems turning on your car is no fun.

After replacing the battery, I'm a bit concerned that the problem might be more serious. Could it be that the battery connecters were damaged by the acid, and those need to be changed as well? Could the acid have damaged any other important parts which give the engine its power? A spark plug issue perhaps? I obviously have no clue. Anyways, I was hoping you guys could help me out, and if possible I would appreciate if someone could take a look for me. I hope it's just a loose bolt or something...

Thanks!

edit: recently (today), I started to have problems starting the car after parking it at school and at the gas station....no problems or shutting down once I got it moving though...

arian_ma
03-15-2006, 06:26 PM
Hey man you think it could be an alternator problem?
Like sometimes your alternator works and sometimes it doesn't?
It makes sense in my head because your car would have no power if the alternator didn't run and would just shut off, and a few tries for whatever the problem is (Loose wire perhaps) to "fix" itself (as in the wire moves and by chance reconnects and alternator starts to work) and then you're good?
Don't know mcuh about electric systems but that seems to be logical...
That would also explain why the problem happened less when you got a new battery. Maybe your new battery could sustain more of a charge than your older, more used battery, and would not run out of charge in between trips as often?

Good luck man. :dunno:

EK 2.0
03-15-2006, 06:34 PM
Terence...to me sounds like a fuel related issue...

Pump perhaps??...or try replacing the fuel filter first and run with that...

Skyline_Addict
03-15-2006, 07:16 PM
Originally posted by EK 2.0
Terence...to me sounds like a fuel related issue...

Pump perhaps??...or try replacing the fuel filter first and run with that...

Yeah...after replacing the battery (which thankfully, needed to be replaced anyway, so it wasn't a waste of money), I figured it was something else. How serious is this issue, if it were the case?

You got PM Arif...

buh_buh
03-15-2006, 11:58 PM
If its fuel pump, I got a spare oem one somewhere. You can just have it if that's what's causing the trouble.

1-Bar
03-16-2006, 01:35 AM
Originally posted by rorn


Hey all,

1) I am wanting to increase the boost of the JRSC as high as possible (smallest pulley). Will it ever approach 10psi?

2)If so will I need sleeves?

Whether I do stock internals or rebuild with aftermarket parts will depend on what the stock internals can withstand.

3)Oh yeah, where is STRD?

Thanks,

Rorn

eh....10psi is alright. Shouldn't be a problem since it will peak at 10psi and not driving at that psi all the time. Sleeves are always a good idea, but like the others said, waste of money....you sleeve to make big power!!

Stock internals should hold up, tuning is key.......good tune = longevity.

1-Bar
03-16-2006, 02:27 AM
noooo!!!!!

http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1557479

rorn
03-16-2006, 06:36 AM
Originally posted by richardchan2002


1.) I was boosting over 10psi with the motorvations pulley. It's actually a larger pulley (not a smaller one). It replaces the passenger side pulley on the jackshaft. It's pointless to think about boosting past that because your intake air temperatures are already way too high at that boost level - roots style blower limitations.

2.) Like buh_buh said, you will not need to sleeve it. I wouldn't build the motor for JRSC. Leave the money in your bank account! Just pay for some new injectors and tuning. You won't be able to run stock injectors if you up the boost.

Few more questions:

1)Should I replace the JRSC fuel pressure regulator, fuel rail and fuel pump as well?

2)Who did you get to tune your JRSC? Was it STRD?

3)How did you prevent belt slippage when boosting at 10psi? I find my belt slips and squeels no matter the tension I put on with the adjustable bolt set up.

4)Where did you get your motorvations pulley?

5)Anyone buy aftermarket axles yet? Mine are getting some play.

thanks,


Rorn

richardchan2002
03-16-2006, 10:27 AM
1.) Yes, the FPR should come out. You can run stock fuel pressure with bigger injectors. The JR Fuel pump is good - it's a rebadged Walboro HP 255lph. Your stock fuel rail is fine but I upgraded to AEM just for fun.

2.) First time around Rage2 tuned it (I had fuel pressure issues though). Brad from Speedtech cleaned up my A/F after that.

3.) The bigger pulley was better than the original smaller one for belt slippage. Get goodyear gatorback belts, those work way better.

4.) The pulley came from motorvations. Not sure if he still makes 'em - look up Jim Helbing in google and you should be able to find a number.

5.) I think OEM axles should be fine for your power levels.

PM me if you have any questions.

Primer_Drift
03-16-2006, 10:38 AM
Originally posted by 1-Bar
noooo!!!!!

http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1557479

Sad to see any prelude die, but I'm not a big fan of K20's in ludes.. its just wrong. K24 block with k20 head on the other hand might be acceptable. I still think the 5th gen lude should have had the 3.2 CL-S motor, which repeatedly spanked the H22 in personal tests..;)

1-Bar
03-16-2006, 11:40 AM
Originally posted by Primer_Drift


Sad to see any prelude die, but I'm not a big fan of K20's in ludes.. its just wrong. K24 block with k20 head on the other hand might be acceptable. I still think the 5th gen lude should have had the 3.2 CL-S motor, which repeatedly spanked the H22 in personal tests..;)

that was the only lude with a k20 that I know of...a k24a2 would be nuts!! Yes, the 3.2 CL type-s motor would have rocked, but correct me if I'm wrong....they were all 5 speed sequentials ?!?

Primer_Drift
03-16-2006, 11:59 AM
Originally posted by 1-Bar


that was the only lude with a k20 that I know of...a k24a2 would be nuts!! Yes, the 3.2 CL type-s motor would have rocked, but correct me if I'm wrong....they were all 5 speed sequentials ?!?

The 2003 CL type-s came with the first manual close ratio 6 speed transmission for the V6's, which is now continued in the Acura TL. At 258hp/233ft.lb of torque they would have been quite the beast in a Prelude, roughly 400lbs lighter than the CL-S.

I know I would have gone for the V6 over the I4 even with the 5sp shiftronic if it had been offered in 2001.

1-Bar
03-16-2006, 12:38 PM
Originally posted by rorn
5)Anyone buy aftermarket axles yet? Mine are getting some play.

thanks,
Rorn


Originally posted by richardchan2002

5.) I think OEM axles should be fine for your power levels.


Agreed....some people running 250+whp are fine with OEM axles. LMK if you need some, I got a pair lying around somewhere :thumbsup:

ryder_23
03-16-2006, 03:56 PM
Anyone by chance have a CF hood forsale? oem style for 5th gen? Just thought I would toss that out there.

Thanks


edit: and why is this the only "official gen or make, etc." thread without a sticky, hehe

1-Bar
03-16-2006, 08:16 PM
^cause it has been dead as of recent and now its alive!! :nut:

buh_buh
03-17-2006, 12:41 AM
my bad.
I use just use the view new posts button.

richardchan2002
03-17-2006, 01:28 AM
haha. Sweet! At the very top now. :)

1-Bar
03-22-2006, 12:39 AM
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/2/web/794000-794999/794447_64_full.jpg
discuss....

richardchan2002
03-22-2006, 12:41 AM
Those better be CF fenders. lol.

1-Bar
03-22-2006, 01:02 AM
they are :thumbsup:

arian_ma
03-22-2006, 09:31 PM
If that car was black...:drool:
Also it looks like the hood doesn't fit perfectly, or is that just me asking too much of a moulded piece?

dkny_stylez
03-23-2006, 05:37 PM
anyone know what type of hardware I need to install a front lip, the one I have came with no bolts, tape etc.

1-Bar
03-24-2006, 12:50 AM
^depends on what lip

buh_buh
03-24-2006, 02:48 AM
not a fan of the fenders. Just looks too out of place imo.

EK 2.0
03-24-2006, 08:06 AM
Originally posted by buh_buh
not a fan of the fenders. Just looks too out of place imo.

then why did you ask me for pricing on them??

haha...just jokes Kev...

dkny_stylez
03-24-2006, 11:56 AM
Originally posted by 1-Bar
^depends on what lip

oem

1-Bar
03-24-2006, 11:58 AM
you'll need 2 self taping screws for the fenders.....and about 10 bumper bolts and clips to hold the lip underneath. Should be able to purchase it through Honda Parts. That's what I did....

dkny_stylez
03-24-2006, 12:03 PM
Originally posted by 1-Bar
you'll need 2 self taping screws for the fenders.....and about 10 bumper bolts and clips to hold the lip underneath. Should be able to purchase it through Honda Parts. That's what I did....

I tried to get a "kit" through honda and they told me there was none made. But what your saying is that I should be able to get them all separate? I believe this was your old lip, looks like its missing a few plastic clips did that effect the way it sat on the bumper?

buh_buh
03-25-2006, 05:37 AM
Originally posted by EK 2.0


then why did you ask me for pricing on them??

haha...just jokes Kev... damn... pwned :banghead:

1-Bar
03-25-2006, 10:26 AM
Originally posted by dkny_stylez


I tried to get a "kit" through honda and they told me there was none made. But what your saying is that I should be able to get them all separate? I believe this was your old lip, looks like its missing a few plastic clips did that effect the way it sat on the bumper?

can't get a kit....have to buy them separate. Nope, didn't affect the way it sat. Oh yeah, double side tape at the ends.....you can find some instructions on www.handaccessories.com

-under prelude accessories -> front lip installation

D-Man
03-25-2006, 10:58 AM
STRD sends their motors to Okanogan Machine in BC. I would suggest Laskey Racing in the US...

D-Man
03-25-2006, 10:59 AM
My M2Y4 automatic prelude transmission will be for sale by the first weekend of May.

It's out of my 2001 Honda Prelude (5th gen) SE, has about 43,XXX km's on it, has only had Honda ATF and has been flushed every other year. For safety, I installed a magnetic drain plug and an extra transmission oil cooler.

The transmission and all associated parts will be removed and available for pick-up only at Speedtech Racing Development in Calgary.

I know this will only cater to certain parties so I'm open to offers...


BTW, I will also have other parts up for grabs very soon such as Fiber Images CF Hood OEM Style w/ Sparco Hood Pins, Speedware Harness Bar, Mugen Sport Pedals AT, Gauge Clusters AT & MT, etc... If anyone is interested in any of these, PM me...

ryder_23
03-25-2006, 11:05 AM
^
interested in hood :D



What recommendation for best MTF to put in our cars? I've been running honda MTF, and i'm seeing if there is anything better out there, to "smooth" things out.

D-Man
03-25-2006, 12:57 PM
Originally posted by ryder_23
^
interested in hood :D



What recommendation for best MTF to put in our cars? I've been running honda MTF, and i'm seeing if there is anything better out there, to "smooth" things out.


Shoot me a pm and I'll give you my number so we can talk in further detail...

As for MTF, I'd stick with Honda. I've seen many switch to GM Syncromesh after they started having problems...

ryder_23
03-25-2006, 12:58 PM
edit: nvm figured it out

arian_ma
03-25-2006, 01:27 PM
Question for you guys.
I got my exhaust installed about a month ago, and I noticed that I have been getting crappier and crappier mileage.
IE before I'd get 400-420, after exhaust I got 370ish
This tank I got 340.
Is this normal? Is there anything I can do?

It could also be because of my driving nowadays, rev to 3500 before shifting and such, but I tried to be a little more conservative and I got even less!

Could all this hot/cold weather have anything to do with the amount of fuel I can put in my tank and such? (It was hot when I filled up, and got colder when I drove, therefore I put less gas in and then it got cold and there was less volume/more density?)

EK 2.0
03-25-2006, 06:47 PM
Originally posted by arian_ma
Could all this hot/cold weather have anything to do with the amount of fuel I can put in my tank and such? (It was hot when I filled up, and got colder when I drove, therefore I put less gas in and then it got cold and there was less volume/more density?)


I think you are getting TOO technical. How about you are just applying MORE throttle to get the sweet sound out of your exhaust??...I dunno...I dont think density has really a large factor in the amount you have decreased...

When you hear hoofbeats...think horses NOT zebra's.

Primer_Drift
03-25-2006, 10:24 PM
Originally posted by arian_ma
Question for you guys....


It could have something to do with how your exhaust is tuned (flow wise). If you have lost some torque down low you'll expend extra fuel to get the accelleration you had before. More throttle, same accelleration, less MPG. I don't know what type of exhaust you bought, but it is safe bet anything performance related isn't going to give you better gas milage.

Skyline_Addict
03-26-2006, 05:44 PM
honda fuel gauges can be pretty weird sometimes too, many times when your fuel is getting lower, the gauge light will go on even if there is still quite a bit of gas left in the tank, naturally as a precaution - but even that in itself can be pretty random (sometimes earlier, sometimes later).
switching gears every 3500 rpm is very easy driving.....could be sometimes you're doing burst acceleration into VTEC? Come'on , we all know it's the VTEC. :D

andres_mt
03-27-2006, 12:29 AM
Originally posted by arian_ma
Question for you guys.
I got my exhaust installed about a month ago, and I noticed that I have been getting crappier and crappier mileage.
IE before I'd get 400-420, after exhaust I got 370ish
This tank I got 340.
Is this normal? Is there anything I can do?

It could also be because of my driving nowadays, rev to 3500 before shifting and such, but I tried to be a little more conservative and I got even less!

Could all this hot/cold weather have anything to do with the amount of fuel I can put in my tank and such? (It was hot when I filled up, and got colder when I drove, therefore I put less gas in and then it got cold and there was less volume/more density?)


My old civic gave pretty inconsistent readings as far as the mileage is concerned. After I got my muffler installed I got better mileage?? Then it was worse after the next fill. I just think the Honda Fuel gauge are a little wack or something but I'm guessing it's just your driving style, you might not even notice when your rev high or not at times. but that's my 2 cents.

1-Bar
03-27-2006, 09:18 AM
Originally posted by arian_ma
Question for you guys.
I got my exhaust installed about a month ago, and I noticed that I have been getting crappier and crappier mileage.
IE before I'd get 400-420, after exhaust I got 370ish
This tank I got 340.
Is this normal? Is there anything I can do?


colder weather + crappy winter gas could be some factors.....exhaust shouldn't have an effect, your motor is still running the same amount of fuel as it was from day one. Its not like you installed a piggy back or something....

IncredibleToad
03-28-2006, 01:05 AM
sorry to intrude into 5th gen territory again but I need the help of the 5th genners again...

Did the ol' JDM headllight swap 2 months ago. I am running H4 bulbs for my low beams and to do this i had to get another harness so that the wiring would accomodate this change. (Stock 4th gen prelude headlights here were not H4's)

Tonight i went to adjust the headlights and found that the harnesses were half melted...
These were pretty shitty harnesses as i couldnt find anything better at the time, bought em at partsource, i believe, a while back. Has anyone done this switch and found wicked harnesses to use, or recommend doing anything else?!

Thanks for any help/input.

arian_ma
03-30-2006, 01:00 AM
^ Tony stop being such a noob and your problem will go away.
Also, I found out why I am getting worse mileage.
10w30
:thumbsup:

Where is that 5w20 at lol

1-Bar
03-30-2006, 01:59 AM
Originally posted by IncredibleToad
sorry to intrude into 5th gen territory again but I need the help of the 5th genners again...

Did the ol' JDM headllight swap 2 months ago. I am running H4 bulbs for my low beams and to do this i had to get another harness so that the wiring would accomodate this change. (Stock 4th gen prelude headlights here were not H4's)

Tonight i went to adjust the headlights and found that the harnesses were half melted...
These were pretty shitty harnesses as i couldnt find anything better at the time, bought em at partsource, i believe, a while back. Has anyone done this switch and found wicked harnesses to use, or recommend doing anything else?!

Thanks for any help/input.
here you go
http://www.passwordjdm.com/product.asp?numRecordPosition=1&P_ID=1609&strPageHistory=&strKeywords=&SearchFor=&PT_ID=199

kane584
03-31-2006, 12:33 AM
i just bought a 97 prelude yesterday from this website
its a rare color green hahha
with some mods:

kn air take
alarm and autostarter
spoiler
lowered with eibach springs
strut bar

thats all i can think of

1-Bar
03-31-2006, 02:42 AM
^nice I absolutely love that colour!!

kane584
03-31-2006, 02:49 AM
^ thanks man, yeah the previous owner said it was a rare color the car, i never seen this color, ive seen only black, silver ,white,red and only once a blue, but it was SH
:dunno:

buh_buh
03-31-2006, 02:53 AM
i like that color, but not a fan of that spoiler.

kane584
03-31-2006, 02:56 AM
persoanlly i love that spoiler

EK 2.0
03-31-2006, 07:42 AM
Originally posted by buh_buh
i like that color, but not a fan of that spoiler.



Originally posted by kane584
persoanlly i love that spoiler


he was just trying to de-value the spoiler as so he could buy it off of you...

bigbadboss101
03-31-2006, 08:59 AM
That's my previous car.

1-Bar
03-31-2006, 11:16 AM
Originally posted by EK 2.0






he was just trying to de-value the spoiler as so he could buy it off of you...

lol.....in that case, Arif you whole car sux....I'll give you $5 :rofl:

kane584
03-31-2006, 03:38 PM
Originally posted by bigbadboss101
That's my previous car.

i bought it off prolifique

bigbadboss101
03-31-2006, 04:11 PM
Yeah he got it off me in a trade. Not in April though.

IncredibleToad
04-01-2006, 04:18 PM
eucalyptus green, wasnt it? Very nice color and rare
i remember reading from several places that this green only had the auto tranny? is this true? :dunno:

I gotta admit thats my favorite color for the 5th gen, after the pearl white of course :drool:

kane584
04-01-2006, 05:44 PM
yeah it is a automatic
its very nice color

bigbadboss101
04-01-2006, 06:10 PM
Yup, nice car. The tiptronic is cool. I let it go cuz at the time I was driving my galfriends and they didn't like the back seats.

Now I am looking for one again. 5 speed Prelude (97+), or GSR (94+). Let me know if you see something ;-)

kane584
04-01-2006, 06:16 PM
Originally posted by bigbadboss101
Yup, nice car. The tiptronic is cool. I let it go cuz at the time I was driving my galfriends and they didn't like the back seats.

Now I am looking for one again. 5 speed Prelude (97+), or GSR (94+). Let me know if you see something ;-)

my 2 favorite cars lol ( besides the supra )

arian_ma
04-03-2006, 12:16 AM
Alright guys, I have a problem.
I have a very minor oil leak, most likely from my oil pan, and, well, it doesn't leak much, but a penny a day....
So, the smart thing would be to get it fixed, which I am, but I also want to install an Oil pressure guage, since that is kind of important, and that low pressure light only comes on when your engine is about to blow.

Now, I want to know how hard this would be, and how much stuff would I need to drill?
Also, any suggestions on a discreet yet good spot to put the guage?
What is the cost of something like this and what material do I need (Besides the guage)?

Thanks

kane584
04-05-2006, 05:28 PM
i would recommend taking it to honda if your not sure that if actually is a oil pan

vtec
04-05-2006, 09:49 PM
for the oil pressure switch i would just get the electrical one instead of the mechanical, reasons being mechanical consists of running a line into the interior of your car, in the line would be hot oil!
the electrical one has a probe that taps into a tee along with your oil pressure sensor and sends whatever signals to the gauge inside your car.

If your oil pan is leaking, it is a bit of work. Removing cross member, the bottom part of your header will have to be removed. Next thing is that on h22a4 the pans are aluminium, so you will have to be very careful on prying it off. Honda didnt use a paper gasket instead they used silicon ( i believe ).

Good luck!!

arian_ma
04-05-2006, 10:46 PM
^^ well the gasket honda gave me is a plastic looking gasket, though I did not buy it, so I don't know if it's actually the oil pan gasket.
A friend of mine said it might be a leak from the "rear seal" (or something along those lines) and that if it was that leaking I'd have to remove my tranny.
When I looked under my car last, there was oil on my transmission, if that helps at all to pin point the source of the leak?
Thanks

EDIT: the gasket is a rubber gasket, typo with the plastic
(so it's very flexible)

richardchan2002
04-05-2006, 11:19 PM
If it's your rear main seal, it's a WAY bigger deal than your oil pan gasket. Can you look up and see where the oil is originating from?

kane584
04-11-2006, 07:34 PM
does anybody know what the DRL light means ?
and how much it costs to fix approximatly ?
thanks.

arian_ma
04-11-2006, 09:11 PM
Daytime running lights
it's just a bulb so like...2 bucks?

liquidboi69
04-17-2006, 12:04 AM
DRL uses the same lights as your highbeam lights..just on different juice settings i think. Just find out how much your highbeams cost i gues.

richardchan2002
04-17-2006, 12:11 AM
Check to make sure the connector for your high beam hasn't come loose. If the high beams aren't connected you'll get the DRL light.

Otherwise replacing your high beam will most likely get rid of the light.

arian_ma
04-17-2006, 05:32 PM
He said the light comes on when he turns his car on in another thread.
I think that's supposed to happen.

MM99lude
04-17-2006, 07:28 PM
Ya the DRL light should come on until your release the e-brake

MM99lude
04-17-2006, 07:31 PM
hey question for you guys, i just picked up some koni yellows and i was reading on another website that they shouldnt be used with eibach lowering springs... anybody have any idea why?

The reason I ask is because they guy who sold me the koni's also threw in a set of Eibachs because he didnt need them. I doubt they will fit anyway because they are off an 4th gen, but thought i would ask just to see if anybody knows:dunno:

arian_ma
04-17-2006, 09:57 PM
Sorry I can't answer your question but I will shoot another one back at you.
Why would the springs not fit? I was under the impression that it was the shocks that had to fit and the springs just rested on the shocks?
As long as you're not rubbing the springs should fit..no?

MM99lude
04-18-2006, 12:53 AM
Ya, well the springs are really worn and i cant actually see the part number on them, i had to look for about 20 minutes just to find out that they were Eibachs. The eibach website has different part numbers for the 4th gen and 5th gen applications. Also the drop is much different on the 4th gen (much lower) so there could be some rubbing issues.

I will probably be looking at getting H&R Race or sport springs, i havent really decided on how much drop i want yet.

I might throw them in just to see if they fit, but yes, the springs do sit on the purch of the strut and should fit... the biggest issue should be with rubbing.

1-Bar
04-18-2006, 09:44 AM
The reason that the Eibach Pro-kit springs cannot be used with the Koni Sport shocks is because the Eibach springs are made to the same specs as the Type SH springs. If you notice, we have a exclusion on the Type SH because the bottom of the front springs are wound tighter than the non-SH setup. This, in turn, does not sit on the spring seat correctly and can cause issues later on. Currently, I only know of H&R that makes a spring that will correctly with our front spring seats. If you have any questions, please write back and let me know. Thanks for writing.

taken off HT :thumbsup:

MM99lude
04-18-2006, 11:24 AM
Thanks Chris! Thats what i was looking for!

Now the hunt for some springs is on, or maybe some ground control coils...


edit: Oh wait, dont ground controls use Eibach springs?:nut:

buh_buh
04-18-2006, 11:35 AM
ground controls are ok with koni yellows.
Good choice on shock btw.

MM99lude
04-18-2006, 12:24 PM
Thanks kev, im excited to get back to calgary and start putting them in.

Does anybody here have any experience with the ground control or skunk2 coils? I'm finding it difficult to decide on a perminant drop with just regular springs so i think i'll be looking for some coils so i can adjust if i ever take my car out in the winter.

Is one better then the other? Any thoughts?

richardchan2002
04-18-2006, 01:05 PM
Ground controls are a good choice - that's what I had. Very easy to adjust - the eibach springs are what make them so good. Otherwise I wouldn't go with sleeved coilovers. Ground control + Koni Yellows FTW. :)

buh_buh
04-18-2006, 01:36 PM
I'm actually on GCs+Koni Yellows too, and I love it. I haven't ridden in many different setups on ludes, but I've been told that my ride is pretty decent compared to other cars with a full coilover setup (on a different car though).

I like that I can go lower than any spring setup, and I can tinker with the height as much as I want. But I actually found that once I found a good height I didn't really touch it. I don't think I've adjusted my coilovers in like 2 or 3 years (but then again I also havent driven my car in half that time either).

Leo is using Skunk2's and KYB's I think in his car, and the ride is decent, but definately not good. But his car is also pretty slammed.

MM99lude
04-18-2006, 02:34 PM
Ya I dont want the car too slammed, its already pretty low with the RS lip. Even right now at stock height im scrap'n on some curbs and such.

I also like the idea that the GC come with the eibach's because the Skunk2 coils say they just have CNC machined spring.

Who here in calgary sells GC?

arian_ma
04-18-2006, 06:25 PM
How are Tein SS's? Do you guys know if they ride well and how about the pillow ball mounts and dampering controls? Worth the money?

ryder_23
04-18-2006, 06:31 PM
Originally posted by arian_ma
How are Tein SS's? Do you guys know if they ride well and how about the pillow ball mounts and dampering controls? Worth the money?

Unless your a baller, i dont see the point in the dampering controls. I have tein HA's, and well the ride is OK, but handles great, hehe

MM99lude
04-18-2006, 08:11 PM
Hey anybody know what wheels are on that the red lude with the CF fenders? (page 29)