Command Start Documentation

[likesoldjunk]

Hi,
I'm new to this board. I tried to ask my question as
a reply to an old thread, but I thought it might be better
to start a new one.

I just bought a box of old Command Start units at a garage
sale, and was hoping to hook them up on my kids cars.

Their are three units, and several model numbers on each
unit. They are

2400/2500
1500/1600/1700/1800
290i-C

Would anyone have the wiring diagrams & possibly
instructions for these things ? I know the car's wiring,
and I'm 'electrically savy' but what I really need is to
identify the purpose of each wire on the command start,
and possibly the programming instructions.

Also, any advice as to the features of these things and
why I should pick one over the other would be helpful.
Any hints appreciated

[Strugari]

I will send what I have.

290i, 2400/2500:thumbsup:

[likesoldjunk]

Strugary,
I got the 290 stuff.... Thanks

But I'm quivering in anticipation of the 2400/2500,
as that unit appears to be in much better shape !

[Strugari]

I am sending to 2400 ans 2500 seperate, I got errors when trying to send it all at once.

Should have it soon:thumbsup:

[likesoldjunk]

It's ALIVE !! :clap:

Thanks to Stugari, I was able to get the 2500
to recognize the remote on the bench. It should
be smooth sailing from here ! ;)

I'm still on the hunt for the 1500 doc, if anyone
has that...

[Strugari]

I am working on it for you.:nut:

[offroaderdodge]

doesent the 1500 use a single button remote?if its the one i'm thinking of,the remote is for a garage door opener.the codes are changeable by opening remote and flipping switches.

[likesoldjunk]

Hmm... Not really sure. I can tell you that it physically looks alot like the 2500, but only has the one large connector
in the center... no edge connector, so a lot less wires.
I found a paper lable on the side that say's the one I
have is a 1700. THe remotes that were in the box with
it looked just like the 2500's

I was able to light up the 290i on the test bench. Scared
the heck out of my kid with it just for fun ! Even
though it's an ugly old thing, I'll probably use it first, as
it appears to be able to hook directly to the doorlocks
with no relays. I only seem to need a relay for the trunk.

Does it sound like I'm on the right track ?

What is the usual method to mount the boxes ? There
dont seem to be any mounting holes, and it looks like they
have been mounted using double sided tape...
THe 290i looks like it clamped to something with a big
hose clamp... Maybe I'm missing some hardware.

[Strugari]

There is probably 15 pins in the connector. 3 rows of 5. If so the wiring is the same as the 3000, I am still trying to get an install guide for you. I will send the wiring schematic for the 3000 and you can compare that to your unit.

The 290i will have positive and negative output on the door locks. Depending on the car you may not need relays to trigger the locks. Some cars have reverse polarity locks. If you let me know what kind of car it is I could let you know whether the relays are needed or not:thumbsup: :burnout:

[Strugari]

The 290 will mount with a long tiestrap through the backside of the unit. That would be the easiest way to mount it anyway.

[likesoldjunk]

Stugari,
On the 2500 - Right 3 rows of 5. If the wire colors match the
pinouts of the diagram you have, I would think it would
be a match.

On the 290i, the documentation you sent me says you
can switch Orange and blue for positive or negative
unlock. my only concern would be if the unit has enough
juice to drive the old doorlocks.

You may be surprised by the application. My first project
will be a '72 Mustang Mach 1. I won't tackle remote
start, Ionly want to use the
keyless entry and trunk release. I may try to hook
some other option up for fun. I know the wiring of this
car inside out

The next job will be harder... a 92 Caravan

[Strugari]

The door lock outputs will not work for the Mustang without relays. They are reverse polarity. You will have to cut the door lock wires and wire in the relays. Page 31 of the 2500 manual shows the correct way to hook them up. That will be cool to have keyless and trunk release in your 'Stang:thumbsup:

[likesoldjunk]

Stugari,
I'm not sure what you mean by reverse polarity...
The way I read the documentation you just switch
the two wires for positive or negative actuation.

Maybe we're both right. But I neglected to tell you a few
details. THe '72's never came with power doorlocks.

THe actuators came from a '83 mustang. The wiring harness
came from a '76 Torino, which had the switches in the
lock posts so you don't know they're there ;)

THe switches in the lock posts are spdt, and work through
a relay system already built into the harness.

My thing with this car is to make it appear stone stock,
but what doesn't show just makes it cooler.

BTW, the trunk release came from the Torino as well.

Thanks for all you efforts, they're a great help.

[Strugari]

Reverse polarity works this way. The switch controls both wires on the actuator. Wire 1 and Wire 2
When you push the switch to lock, the switch changes the polarity of Wire 1 to positive, and Wire 2 to negative.
When you push the switch to unlock, it changes the polarity of Wire 1 to Negative, and Wire 2 to positive.

The switch will have 5 wires on it if it is reverse polarity. If the lock system is positive, or negative, the switch usually only has 3 wires on it.

For some reason I do not think the harness has built in relays in it. I don't remember any of the older Ford's having positive or negative triggered locks. They have always been reverse polarity.

I know you will, but I will say it anyway, double check the wiring before hooking in the remote starter:thumbsup:

[likesoldjunk]

Stugari,
I follow you're description, and have seen systems like that
in 79+ mustangs that have DPDT switches. That kind of wiring
is a lot easier to understand.

This system has the switch in the lock post which is SPDT
(3 wires) If you look at the attached picture, you can see the
litte blue box in the middle ofthe linkage. Streaching it connected
pins 2-3, and compressing it connects pins 2-1. There are relays
for sure, and you can understand it would be a head scratcher
to figure out how to reverse polarity on the actuator with a SPDT
switch. I actually have the schematics, since I have a manual set
for a '77. It's not the most common setup, but I've seen it in
a dozen or so cars in Pick a Part overthe years.

What appealed to me about this system when I grabbed
it from the dump, was that I could install it, the switches would
be easily reachable, but no one would know they were there.

The wiring diagram you sent me on the 290i has

Blue: Positive Lock/Negative unlock
Orange: Negative lock/Positive unlock

So it looks to me like I can just hook them to the terminal
1&3 leads from the switches. I hope i'm on the right track.

This is different than the 2500, where the leads just go negative, and you definately need the relays. It

I only know enough to be dangerous, so don't hesitate to
call BS if you think I'm off track.

I got the doc on the 3000 you sent me last night. Looks like
it's auto start only for a manual transmission (no doorlocks)

Thanks again.

[likesoldjunk]

Opps, I see the 3000 does do doorlocks, but it seems a
much simpler unit.

[kc2000]

Hi all,
I'm new to this board.

I have a command start unit Model 2901-c
I got this uninstalled on my nissan sentra and I now want to install it on my honda. The garage who uninstalled is now closed. So I have no wiring diagrams.


If possible would anyone have the wiring diagrams & possibly
instructions for this unit ? What I really need is to
identify the purpose of each wire on the command start,
and possibly the programming instructions.

Thank you

[Strugari]

Pm me with your email addy, and I will send it out to you.:thumbsup:

[likesoldjunk]

Stugari,
To my earlier post, I'm proposing hooking the unit to
the switch, which is the far side of the ford relays from
the actuators.
If I was going to connect at the actuators, I would definately
need the relay setup you pointed to in the manual.

Like I said, I know just enough to be dangerous. Do
you think I'm heading into the danger zone ?

[Strugari]

If the switch is in fact a 3 pin switch, then you should be able to hook up the command start directly.
Test the centre pin on the switch. If it is positive, hook a test light to a 12V source and probe one of the other 2 wires. The doors should lock or unlock when you probe the wire.
If the centre pin on the switch is negative, hook the test light to a ground source and probe one of the other two wires. The doors should either lock or unlock.

The light in the test light provides enough voltage to trigger locks without a relay. If it works that way, then no relays are needed.

Hope this helps.:thumbsup:

[likesoldjunk]

Success :clap:

A small victory perhaps,, but I got the 290i to work with
my retrofitted Doorlocks and Trunk release on my Mustang.

Turns out I didn't need the relays, as suspected.

Thanks Stugari :thumbsup:

Here's the old clunker I put them in. :bigpimp:

[likesoldjunk]

Opps,
Where was the ipcture ?

[Strugari]

Great to hear all is working. Great looking car:thumbsup: