whatthe
03-24-2005, 10:21 PM
*Edit*
I was working on a 1.8BP from a 93 ford Escort GT to swap in (Mazda guys should know... nice closed deck iron block, good FI engine as per JDM BPT). I had a beautiful manifold and such built but I've gotten rid of hte turbo stuff already.
An additional $650 bucks gets you the rest of the stuff I was going to use for hte project. My plan was to drive the car like I have been and finish putting the BP together and then swap it all in. It's a good car either way. If you want just the car or the parts let me know and we'll see what we can work out. I still like the idea of someone finshing the BP stuff and putting it in. Anyway...
A complete but somewhat dissassembled 93 Ford Escort GT (picked it up to grab transmission, ECU, harness, axles, front/rear brakes and brake booster) to swap over. The harness doesn't even really need to be swapped over, but you can connect it to the BP while still driving the other motor for ease of install.
DOHC 1.8 BP head that has been sandblasted, valve work with 45 degree seat to appear larger to flow, back-cut on valves, head decked 10 or 15 thou (I'll find bill) to bring compression back up from combustion chamber clean up, and port work on both intake and exhaust. Most of the work was done close to the valve where the biggest differences are to be made for flow improvement. It was not port matched as I believe that reversion of polluted exhaust gases will do more harm than good. The intake was left roughed up with 80 grit for better atomization of fuel and so droplets do not stick to the wall. Bumps and risers in the combustion chamber around the valves were removed to better accomodate forced induction. Any riser can create a hot-spot and greatly increases chance of detonation. This head should make power on a NA car, and would be perfect for a forced induction car as I made it for. I will have a flow chart of a stock head vs. this one this weekend hopefully. The guides looked ok and the motor didn't smoke in the car it came out of so I didn't touch much else. If you are worried about guides or valve seats and don't want to take a chance on them like I was going to, you're welcome to do the work. The valve job and surfacing was over $300 if I recall, and for the hours and hours of porting and flow testing, and assembly I'll take a bite on it.
I also have a second spare BP head that I needed for flow comparison and can be used for whatever purposes you desire.
The BP block has been sandblasted and cleaned up. The crank has not left the block. I took out the rods pistons and cleaned up the top of the pistons. From here, I would just put in some new rings, rough up the cylinder walls a bit, and put it all back together. The BP motor ran good minus one cylinder the rings were a bit worn.
I have the G series trans that I was going to rebuild, but didn't get to. It was locked out of one gear while still in the Escort, otherwise worked fine and should be fairly cheap to fix even if you have to take it to one of hte shops in Calgary while it is out.
The escort GT parts car has tinted light covers and spoiler and all that if you wanted to recoup some of your costs and sell that seperately.
I was working on a 1.8BP from a 93 ford Escort GT to swap in (Mazda guys should know... nice closed deck iron block, good FI engine as per JDM BPT). I had a beautiful manifold and such built but I've gotten rid of hte turbo stuff already.
An additional $650 bucks gets you the rest of the stuff I was going to use for hte project. My plan was to drive the car like I have been and finish putting the BP together and then swap it all in. It's a good car either way. If you want just the car or the parts let me know and we'll see what we can work out. I still like the idea of someone finshing the BP stuff and putting it in. Anyway...
A complete but somewhat dissassembled 93 Ford Escort GT (picked it up to grab transmission, ECU, harness, axles, front/rear brakes and brake booster) to swap over. The harness doesn't even really need to be swapped over, but you can connect it to the BP while still driving the other motor for ease of install.
DOHC 1.8 BP head that has been sandblasted, valve work with 45 degree seat to appear larger to flow, back-cut on valves, head decked 10 or 15 thou (I'll find bill) to bring compression back up from combustion chamber clean up, and port work on both intake and exhaust. Most of the work was done close to the valve where the biggest differences are to be made for flow improvement. It was not port matched as I believe that reversion of polluted exhaust gases will do more harm than good. The intake was left roughed up with 80 grit for better atomization of fuel and so droplets do not stick to the wall. Bumps and risers in the combustion chamber around the valves were removed to better accomodate forced induction. Any riser can create a hot-spot and greatly increases chance of detonation. This head should make power on a NA car, and would be perfect for a forced induction car as I made it for. I will have a flow chart of a stock head vs. this one this weekend hopefully. The guides looked ok and the motor didn't smoke in the car it came out of so I didn't touch much else. If you are worried about guides or valve seats and don't want to take a chance on them like I was going to, you're welcome to do the work. The valve job and surfacing was over $300 if I recall, and for the hours and hours of porting and flow testing, and assembly I'll take a bite on it.
I also have a second spare BP head that I needed for flow comparison and can be used for whatever purposes you desire.
The BP block has been sandblasted and cleaned up. The crank has not left the block. I took out the rods pistons and cleaned up the top of the pistons. From here, I would just put in some new rings, rough up the cylinder walls a bit, and put it all back together. The BP motor ran good minus one cylinder the rings were a bit worn.
I have the G series trans that I was going to rebuild, but didn't get to. It was locked out of one gear while still in the Escort, otherwise worked fine and should be fairly cheap to fix even if you have to take it to one of hte shops in Calgary while it is out.
The escort GT parts car has tinted light covers and spoiler and all that if you wanted to recoup some of your costs and sell that seperately.