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91sw20
06-02-2005, 11:23 AM
hi guys. has anyone tried using pennzoil synchromesh in their 2's?

i own a mkII, and once in awhile i can't get into 1st gear (have to start in 2nd), and reverse grinds once in awhile as well. sometimes i can't even get into reverse, i have to put it into 1st, inch forward a bit, then i can get into reverse.

i switched to Redline MT-90 last summer, but it didn't seem to help a whole lot, and i heard the pennzoil stuff may help.

so just wondering what ur thoughts on it were....

thanks.

clem24
06-02-2005, 02:14 PM
The 1st gear/reverse thing is true of just about any standard car because of the lack of a sync on reverse. Happens on my MKII, happens on my sister's Rav4, happens on my ST204. 1st gear: you won't be able to engage first gear without blipping if your car is going past say, 10km/h. Try giving it a little blip to get it into first. Not sure if this is the case though.

Otherwise, in my opinion, there really is no "magic formula" that will repair worn syncs. It's like trying to spray WD40 on a seized and rusted bolt - good luck.

You also might want to see if maybe your clutch isn't disengaging all the way, perhaps due to an improperly bled system or some air in the line caused by something loose.

clem..

91sw20
06-02-2005, 02:39 PM
hi clem24, tks for the reply....

the first gear thing happens when the car is parked. ie: not downshifting. but i guess this doesn't change ur answer.

it's just really annoying because sometimes at a red light, i'm never sure if 1st gear will engage.

jvillain
06-03-2005, 11:49 AM
You also might want to see if maybe your clutch isn't disengaging all the way

That would be my suggestion as well.

91sw20
06-03-2005, 03:00 PM
this may be a stupid question, but how do i check if my clutch is disengaging properly?

thanks guys...

jvillain
06-04-2005, 08:40 AM
Easiest way. Jack up your rear end, put it on jack stands, put it in gear and push the clutch in. Hit the brakes long enough to stop the wheels and then see if they start rotating again.

91sw20
06-04-2005, 07:21 PM
Originally posted by jvillain
Easiest way. Jack up your rear end, put it on jack stands, put it in gear and push the clutch in. Hit the brakes long enough to stop the wheels and then see if they start rotating again.

hi jvillain,

so while it's jacked up, i put it in gear and rev it a bit, then clutch in and brake to stop the wheels...then with the wheel stopped, i should let the clutch back out to see if the wheels rotate again? or do i keep the clutch in the whole time?

thanks again!

jvillain
06-06-2005, 10:00 AM
Put the clutch right to the floor. Do you have an aftermarket clutch? They often need slave piston extenders. Speed source make one for our cars.

91sw20
06-06-2005, 01:28 PM
clutch is stock...

ok, so keep the clutch to the floor the whole time. once i brake enough to stop the wheels, then let go the brakes (keeping the clutch down).

heavyD
06-06-2005, 04:22 PM
Coming from the DSM world of notchy shifters I can tell you there is no miracle manual transmission fluid that will make your transmission shift smoothly or enter gear easier. I've tried BG shychrosift, GM synchromesh, and Redline MTL (seemed to work the best).

Is there not a length adjustment on the master cylinder rod to the pedal and a cruise control switch on the pedal stop? You usually have to adjust both after a new clutch installation.

ramminghard
06-06-2005, 05:30 PM
i had a 5G celica and the syncro's were shot. would not go into second without a lot of grinding and forcing. GM syncromesh took the problem away 100%. Could not make it grind and the trans felt brand new. Might as well try it. only $30 bucks. I had tried redline before with minimal results.

91sw20
06-06-2005, 06:27 PM
i guess i'll just pick some up and give it a try then.

jvillain
06-07-2005, 01:11 PM
Is there not a length adjustment on the master cylinder rod to the pedal and a cruise control switch on the pedal stop? You usually have to adjust both after a new clutch installation.

Checking to see if the clutch will fully disengage will tell him if this is nescissary or not.

When I gor mine is shifted fairly nasty as well. The move to MT-90 didn't really help either. What did work though was looseing the nasty storm shifter for the 98+ shift knob. It allowed my hand to sit in a more natuaral poition and so the shifts were straiter. The extra weight that the knob has helped as well. This won't be his problem but it is what worked for me.

91sw20
06-07-2005, 06:16 PM
i dunno if this is related, but when i first got the car, one thing i noticed was that sometimes when i shift into 1st (from neutral), i sometimes accidentally shift into 3rd. it's hard to tell by feel if i shifted into 1st or 3rd.

jvillain
06-08-2005, 12:05 PM
Cable shifts are bad that way. It could be that your shift cables have stretched and aren't allowing you the proper amount of movement. That is pretty rare though.

If you think that is the case they can be adjusted to try and correct that. I think the adjustment is on the shifter end of the cable. Consult the BGB to be sure.

In 93 they rerouted the way the cables go down the tunnel to help improve the shift. If I can ever find out how it changed I will be trying it on my car.

heavyD
06-08-2005, 04:29 PM
Originally posted by jvillain


Checking to see if the clutch will fully disengage will tell him if this is nescissary or not.


No. You can have the engagement too close to the floor to the point that most of the time it will engage but if not pressed all the way it may not. It's best to move it from being too close to the floor and ensure that there is an inch of free play travel at the top.

jvillain
06-09-2005, 11:15 AM
I don't think I have ever driven a duece that didn't have the disengaugement right at the floor. I'm not really sure how those short Japaneese guys get the pedal that far.