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View Full Version : Is Block Gaurd Worth It?



mike_papps
06-21-2005, 08:21 PM
Hey guys.. simple wuestion.. i tryed searching for info on block gaurds and how they work or if its worth it but wound up short.. can someone let me know if its worth the money to do tis or not.. im recently gonna be puting a turbo on and dont want any killer problems...

Thanks

RickDaTuner
06-21-2005, 08:48 PM
http://forums.beyond.ca/showthread.php?s=&threadid=80848

you need to change the settings on the search page for longer dates and a few other things, i cant remember, but it was changed a little while age..

90awdwagovan.
06-22-2005, 11:32 AM
fill your block ;)

RickDaTuner
06-22-2005, 02:06 PM
Originally posted by 90awdwagovan.
fill your block ;)

ugh and then have a uncurable over heating problem?

i think the over all best way to stengthen your block is to have it resleved with steel sleves

rage2
06-22-2005, 02:09 PM
Originally posted by RickDaTuner
ugh and then have a uncurable over heating problem?

i think the over all best way to stengthen your block is to have it resleved with steel sleves
You only fill it 1/2 way and reroute cooling passages if neccesary. This was done on my 951 block.

Sleeving your block does not change the fact that it's an open deck block. Block guard will still prevent any horizontal movement of your sleeves.

Block guards are useful if you have a lot of side loading on the sleeves. High rpm's will do that (boosting will not).

RickDaTuner
06-22-2005, 02:14 PM
Originally posted by rage2

You only fill it 1/2 way and reroute cooling passages if neccesary. This was done on my 951 block.

Sleeving your block does not change the fact that it's an open deck block. Block guard will still prevent any horizontal movement of your sleeves.

Block guards are useful if you have a lot of side loading on the sleeves. High rpm's will do that (boosting will not).

I was under the assumption that most block sleeves came with lips or ledges at the top of them, joining with each other to create a block gaurd?

Primer_Drift
06-22-2005, 02:34 PM
Originally posted by rage2

You only fill it 1/2 way and reroute cooling passages if neccesary. This was done on my 951 block.


I spoke with Peter regarding this process on your block, was there an inheirent flaw in the porsche block design that you needed to go this route, or was it merely for safety?

Block guards are bandaid solutions at best; modular integrated deck is the way to go for open deck designs IMO.:D

90awdwagovan.
06-22-2005, 02:53 PM
Originally posted by rage2

You only fill it 1/2 way and reroute cooling passages if neccesary. This was done on my 951 block.



yep.... fill the block up with salt, leave enough space at the top for your block fill.... (1/2 way up the sleeves for example).... insert your block filler, let it set, wash out the salt. bake block in the oven, place head gasket over engine... and drill out the head gasket holes through the block filler and wala... instant filled block.


bah, if your not gona sleeve its better then a block guard or posts, and it's 100% street-able. no cooling issues.

mike_papps
06-22-2005, 10:01 PM
yeah.. im only gonna be running 7 er 8 psi.... not sure if i need it.. may help with reliablillity though...

rage2
06-23-2005, 08:53 AM
Originally posted by Primer_Drift
I spoke with Peter regarding this process on your block, was there an inheirent flaw in the porsche block design that you needed to go this route, or was it merely for safety?
Porsche did this on the 3L 968 block (evolution of the 2.5L 944/951 block). Something to try hehe. I'm running less power now than my old block since I haven't tuned with race gas yet, so the change wasn't necessary.

I had no block strength issues whatsoever on the old block. The only issue I have is oil leaks. Damn hybrid turbos giving me nothing but problems over the years.

Darkane
06-23-2005, 12:01 PM
Ive been toying with The idea of Block Posting for my upcoming Turbo build. Same Idea as a block guard but cooling gets through and it supports the sleeves where cracks start, in the middle. Discuss.

RickDaTuner
06-23-2005, 02:48 PM
Im not in any position to be making an informed opinion on this but i would think in my mind that post's with a half round desing on the back end would help in cooling, along with horizontal cuts along the length of the post and i suppose you would need a material that isnt to soft, but is still capable of dissapating heat, i was thinking that welding in posts would be a better solution than decking or sleveing as it keeps the original block desing..

legendboy
06-23-2005, 02:54 PM
Blockguard or Blocksavers were designed to save your forged pistons and prevent peices of a cracked sleeve from dropping down into your oil pan. They are basically for preventing furthur damage to your engine when you crack a sleeve.

They arn't meant to make stock open deck sleeves stronger or more resistant to high rpm loads.

The proper installation of a blocksaver is for it to be machined to fit aprox 0.5" down from the deck. An overbore, hone and alignbore are needed to correct any geometric changes in the block. Posting should have this done also.

Waste-o-money imo.