2002 Mazda Protege 5 Turbo (MP5T)

[BRIAN MP5T]

Here is one of my cars. A 2002 Mazda Protege 5 Turbo. It's taken over 3 Years to complete and it's all Custom and Basically, the manifold is the only thing I didn't make.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/11/web/503000-503999/503974_190_full.jpg

2002 White Mazda MP5 Turbo 2.0L 16V DOHC Manual 16.5/25.5 PSI Daily/Switch

Garret Custom GT-28s Liquid cooled Ball Bearing (Disco Potato)
8.5:1 Low Compression CP Forged Pistons 4 Ring
Forged Oliver Rods, Brass Bushing, TOGA Rod Berings, TOGA Mains,ARP Rod Bolts.
SDS EIC2 Extra Injector Controller System.
Full Crank Balance, Deck/Head, Deglaze, Align Hone.
Intake Manifold Extrudehoned, Primary VCTS Disabled
Head Extrudehoned, ARP Head Studs
Tri Point Adjustable Timing Gear
304 Stainless 4to1 Turbo Manifold
Exaust Manifold Extrudehoned.
DEI Header Wrap
2.75" Turbo Back Exaust
Apex-I N1
Spearco Full Front Intercooler
Stand Alone Liquid Turbo Cooler
T-6 Ron Davis Prototype Triple Pass Radiator, 21 Psi
Enki CDR-9 18"Alloy Rims
Yokohama Parda Spec-2 215/35Z18
KVR Nickel Plated Cross Drilled Rotors
Sparco Torino Seats w/4 Point
TEIN - SS Full Suspension
AWR Motor Mounts
AWR Adjustable End Links
AWR 21 MM Anti Sway
ACT Stage IIR Clutch
Turbo XS Bov-RFL
Tial 35mm Wastegate 15 Psi Spring
Turbosmart Dual Boost Controler
Vibrant Silicon Hose Set (Black)
Apex-I Turbo Timer
Autometer Boost 30 Vac/30Boost
Autometer Stoych Air/Fuel
Autometer Oil Pressure
Autometer EGT (Pyrometer)
Autometer Tachometer Adaptor
Optima Gold Top Deep Cycle Battery
Kenwood Audio System
Phoenix Gold ZX-475 Ti Amp
Phoenix Gold Bass Cube Ti
JL Audio 12W3 D6 3 Ohm Bridged
Crappy Red Neon (Under Dash)
Ghetto Tinting
Ricey Stickers (50HP+) Woot Woot!

[BRIAN MP5T]

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[BRIAN MP5T]

Here is a short Photo Rebuild of the past year.

The Critical Failure...

http://www.msprotege.com/members/Brian%20MP5T/Boom%206.jpg

[BRIAN MP5T]

On the 14th Of November, A FS-20 was dropped off in my backyard. It is out of a 2003 P5 that was rear ended at 51,000Km. It came as you can see from Valve cover to Oil Pan, what a steal at $900.00 CDN!

http://www.car-part.com/

Special thanks to YP5TO (Jason) for helping me with this link!

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[BRIAN MP5T]

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[BRIAN MP5T]

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[BRIAN MP5T]

(Engine Assembley)

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[BRIAN MP5T]

(Drivers Side A Pillar etc...)

Parts Arrived, the second Double pod is going above the first one, then the entire pillar is being bondoed and sanded down, primed, painted whit and clear coated, just like the last one. The Guys at Terry's Collision in Pembroke will be painting it along with the CF Hood. I don't have the skills to do it the way it should be done.

Got it all together... I guess it really is that high up...

http://www.msprotege.com/members/Brian%20MP5T/POD%20NEW5.jpg
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I got the Manifold Back after getting the EGT Probe welded in the collector. The Header wrap was ordered in Black this time and the Proper Stainless Steel DEI Straps came in just today. Here are some Pictures of the Manifold with the Wraping and the manifold when it was new...

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[BRIAN MP5T]

(Parts From Tony at AWR)

Here are some Pictures of the Prototype Protege 5 Triple Pass T6 Aluminium Radiator. The first picture is just that, the second one is for anyone who does not really know what Triple Pass means...

http://www.msprotege.com/members/Brian%20MP5T/RADIATOR1.jpg

http://www.msprotege.com/members/Brian%20MP5T/RADIATOR2.jpg

Rather than one big rad core, the coolant is forced to pass down 1/3rd of the core, up the middle 1/3rd and then down the last 1/3rd to the outlet. Normally a radiator is much hotter in the middle between the two connections and the sides are rather "UNUSED".

Path of least resistance would let the hot coolant flow directly as possible, This rad forces the coolant to travel the entire surface area of the radiator, plus the radiators design is much more effecient. The end result is much more consistent temperature, much better ability to remove excess heat from the coolant and yes a slightly higher pressure rating to allow the temp to get higher without boiling.


http://www.msprotege.com/members/Brian%20MP5T/Trailing%20Arm1.jpg
More Stuff From AWR came also. The Famous 21mm anti sway bar with adjustable end links front and rear, but I also picked up his stiffer trailing arm for the Protege. As you can see it's alot stronger than the stock one, plus it has Poly-U inserts to geep everything aligned during cornering. Result, A Rock solid rear end. All That plus the Tein-ss should make the car like a giant Go-Kart!

Thanks for your help Maclum. The Job of rear suspension is done... 2 Hours from start to finish and no unexpected problems...

Fal Flexilite Fan. Going in front of the radiator (Pusher) The back on the rad in the engine compartment will look so clean...

http://www.prostreetonline.com/pso/images/products/FAL-310.jpg

[BRIAN MP5T]

(Hood amd MISC Stuff!)

Extractor Hood Almost Done! It's being painted white with the exception of 1" by where the windshield is...To Avoid that ghetto look of a black hood on a white car...

http://www.msprotege.com/members/Brian%20MP5T/Hood%20Holes%201.jpg

The CF Hood, A-Pillar etc are all going tomorow to get painted white to mathc the car...

CF is Ghetto on a White car...

http://www.msprotege.com/members/Brian%20MP5T/HOOD2.jpg

http://www.msprotege.com/members/Brian%20MP5T/HOOD3.jpg
Ok, Carbon with 4 Layers of White, 4 Layers of Clear.

MS In Carbon and a 1" Strip near the window.. ENJOY.. I will.


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[BRIAN MP5T]

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[BRIAN MP5T]

New Shots...

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[BRIAN MP5T]

More

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[BRIAN MP5T]

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[BRIAN MP5T]

The MP5T is the NUMBER ONE showoff winner for this week out of 1.3 Million Members. Thanks for the Votes!

www.cardomain.com

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[BRIAN MP5T]

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[BRIAN MP5T]

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[BRIAN MP5T]

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[BRIAN MP5T]

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[BRIAN MP5T]

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http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/hpiab2/images/haltech_dashsm.jpg

http://www.haltech.com/images/e6x.jpg

[BRIAN MP5T]

Updates..

My goal is 400 WHP, Every part of the stock electrical has been removed and rewired only what is needed to operate the engine and lights.

There is No stereo, No AC, No Heater, No Cruise. Fuel cell was replaced with a smaller tank that sits more right in the center of the car, The battery was replaced with an 11 Lb Braille Racing cell that sits front right in the fender as far front as possible. Stock injectors (100cc) have been replaced with 550cc STI injectors.

The ECU was replaced with a Haltech Sport 1000 Standalone. It is connected to.
So here is the wiring for the Haltech.

4 Injectors
4 Ignition Coils
Home Sensor
Trigger Sensor
Fuel Pump
Cooling Fan
IAT
Coolant Temp
Coolant Pressure
Oil Temp
Oil Pressure
Fuel Temp
Fuel Pressure
WBO2#1
WBO2#2
NBO2#1
EGT
Throttle Position Sensor
Speed Reference Sensor Front Left
Speed Reference Sensor Front Right
Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor
Idle Step Control.

The system allows for full control over fuel and ignition timing and feeds the Racepack IQ3 Display that has replaced the stock Speedo cluster.


http://members.cox.net/shawnab777/Batt1b.jpg

http://image.importtuner.com/f/editorials/apexi-ihi-vf23-turbocharger/7211799+w375+cr1+re0+ar1/subaru-sti-pink-fuel-injectors.jpg

http://www.tweakit.net/shop/images/haltech_dash.gif

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Not Screwed in Properly, But it gives the idea...

The Racepac IQ3 is Blue so I changed the lights in the A-Pillar.

5 Blue LED each. The Blue is awesome in first person, Photos dont do much justice..

http://i43.tinypic.com/fz3fjq.jpg


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[BRIAN MP5T]

Ok, So the Spring Install continues..

Finally found an 14x1.5 Tap so I could install my Intake Air Temp Sensor.

Rather than installing it in the intake pipe and adding restriction, I installed it in the collector of the intake manifold. Should be a very accurate representation of what is actually going into the engine.

The Brass fitting to the right of it is for the Idle Step Motor that. It's function is to regulate the idle based on a target RPM (Set By The User)

http://i44.tinypic.com/opmv4o.jpg

This was the last part of the intake manifold, before I could install it on the car for good.

http://i40.tinypic.com/14uhrwi.jpg

Still have to do the wiring.. Should not take too long..

[BRIAN MP5T]

UPDATE:

Got all the positive leads done for the battery, 1x8ga to the Alternator, 1x8ga to the starter, 1x8ga to the car (Built a fuse panel)


Also was working on the Coil bracket to verify it's feasibility..When it's done it will get polished..

Aside from being a pain in the C*CK to remove, it will work great. the coils are very high on the engine but there is still 1" of clearance under the hood. Away from water and away from the high heat of the exhaust system. The Coils are not attached... I know...

http://i41.tinypic.com/vg6aew.jpg

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[BRIAN MP5T]

Good Progress today..

Got the Wiring done for the Lights and got the Haltech to connect to the PC for the first time.

None of the sensors are connected yet which is why the screen looks like a Christmas Tree..

The IQ3 Dash is AWESOME!

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Tomorrow I will start to hook up all the sensors..

[BRIAN MP5T]

Ok,

TPS
Coolant Temp
Intake Air Temp
Oil Pressure
Fuel Pressure
MAP

are all connected.

In the AM.

Idle Motor
O2 NB
O2 WB x2
Fuel Pump

And I am going to see about the speed reference sensor.. I have no F-ing Clue right now, but I'm sure it will become easy with the multi meter etc...

[BRIAN MP5T]

Ok, this is the final prototype for the Ignition system. It will be used to make the final part once I get some more aluminum.

I cleaned it up a bit more than the original which hung over the belt, (Yuck)

All there is left, is everything else...

Still working on Wiring...

Bought gas so I could test out the pump and fuel pressure sending unit..


http://i43.tinypic.com/24enwv5.jpg

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[BRIAN MP5T]

Fuel Pump Primes no problem.

When the ECU is turned on, it triggers the pump to charge the rail with pressure.

This confirmed..

1. The pump works.
2. There are no leaks.
3. The Fuel Pressure Sensor Works.
4. The HALTECH is doing exactly what I expect. Perfect.

[BRIAN MP5T]

Finished all the wires around the engine.

There is only one main wire (Split loam) that comes from the firewall.

All wires that go to sensors or engine components are contained within a single 2" conduit.

It splits cleanly to only two smaller parts.

1 Runs along the injectors.
2 Runs in front of the coils.

The result is an almost surgical looking engine bay. Almost everything is visible.


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[BRIAN MP5T]

UPDATE!! SUCCESS!


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I just hooked up the starter to verify that the Trigger and Home sensor work on the car.

If I had the Fuses in for the Coils and Injectors, it would have tried to start for real.

See Picture, Home Counter, Trigger Counter near Bottom Middle..

The 4 Home, means that the engine did 8 Revolutions or four full cycles.
The 255 Triggers is divided by 8 as 31 and some decimal. Which is fine because it should be around 245 - 280 (Due to when I stopped cranking the starter)

This means that the math that the ECU is doing, is exactly the math I was expecting.

The Cam gear modification work, a Reluctor sensor has a unique property, the signal becomes stronger as speed is increased. So if this low speed test has no trouble, then it will only get better when the car is actually running.

I am still waiting on a WBO2 controller to run the engine..

[BRIAN MP5T]

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[BRIAN MP5T]

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[BRIAN MP5T]

With the Silicon 90 Degree bend, the aluminum does not hit the brake master cylinder anymore.
I no longer needed the pipe with the mandrel bend, Got a piece of 1/8" thick 2.5" Aluminum straight tube installed.
Took one hour to polish it to a mirror finish.
http://i39.tinypic.com/30wqmuh.jpg


Coil plate is done, You can see how much thicker it is, 1/4" Aluminum.
http://i44.tinypic.com/6p711z.jpg

[BRIAN MP5T]

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[BRIAN MP5T]

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Coiled Cable is the horn, exactly like the Porsche Le Mans car.

Last Shot of the year. Gone for the winter...

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[BRIAN MP5T]

Big Update Since the Fall.


First ride of the year.. 03-20-2010

No Heater...
No Wipers...

No Problem..

100Km Round trip..

http://photos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs439.ash1/24244_380181572429_510082429_3669640_7917248_n.jpg

New Goodies.

Summer Spare Engine.

Arias 8.5:1 Ceramic Coated Piston with Teflon Skirt.
Pauter Forged Rods

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-sjc1/hs609.snc3/32047_10150173609520061_857595060_12436211_2244273_n.jpghttp://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-sjc1/hs639.snc3/32047_10150173604440061_857595060_12436128_2905670_n.jpg


3.288"

Made some progress with the teardown.

Valves are getting redone as the engine had 177,000Km on it.

This should let me get the head ported a bit and with new springs and shims, should run perfect.


The engine is going to get it's own, Alternator, Clutch, Flywheel, Transmission and Quaiffe LSD.

It will be a drop in powerplant.

I'll fire up some more pictures but this is what I got now..




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Rebuild starts Tuesday

Engine goes to Renfrew for a week

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs340.ash1/29147_10150179975725061_857595060_12608268_6152543_n.jpg

Yesterday and Today spent much time installing a Haltech RA-10

The Protege uses Two Variable Reluctor Sensors to tell the ECU where the engine is, (Timing Crank and Cam)

They generate tiny pulses of AC current and require a logic circuit to read. The pulse looks like a heart beat on a graph with a rising and falling edge. Every event makes a positive and negative bump in the graph.

I had massive trouble making a VR signal reliable. I had to triple shield the trigger and home signal wires...Run them totally away from any EM interference.

I was getting a variance in my ignition timing that could only be seen with a timing light or logged as detonation. To get rid of the detonation, I had to run a fairly relaxed timing curve.

NO LONGER.

A Hall Effect Signal works like a switch. Either On or Off. There is no need for a logic circuit because it is either on or off.

It is immune to interference, requires no shielding and comes in the form of a 12 volt (Low Amp) signal.

Got it all installed and tried it out.

The Numbers of Trigger and Home were spot on, but the car would not start. I had the labels turned off on the laptop. The Trigger (Crank) and Home (Cam) were reversed... The Computer must have been going insane trying to figure out when to fire the spark...

Road Test in the morning.

http://i47.tinypic.com/fyh30g.jpg



It will let me run this ignition which hits much harder on 104 Octane.

http://i47.tinypic.com/kd4p3p.jpg

http://i928.photobucket.com/albums/ad121/brianmp5t/MP5T/th_MP5T-UNDER-HOOD.jpg (http://s928.photobucket.com/albums/ad121/brianmp5t/MP5T/?action=view&current=MP5T-UNDER-HOOD.flv)

I'll post the others later. Currently there is a rip in my Tial Wastegate diaphragm, parts are on the way so this is a 7 PSI Spring the the rain without the Boost Controller.

Things to watch for.

1. There was so much humidity, that the BOV made a cloud of vapor when it opened.

2. The Turbo makes a deafening screaming noise under load.

3. The BOV makes a deafening noise off load.

4. The flames can be seen as a reflection of yellow under the turbo, the road that was driven on was a back farm road with no lines or markings.

Thanks all for your continued interest.

I have designed a new mount that will hold the camera pointing down at the discharge for the WG and also looking out the left front tire so you can sense speed as well..

I have also come up with a way to remove the wind noise from the Mic to improve the quality of the sound.

I was totally stunned how violent that looked, just wait until it isn't raining and I swap out springs with the replacement Tial parts..

LOL

http://i928.photobucket.com/albums/ad121/brianmp5t/MP5T/Screenshots/Capture.jpg?t=1275959498

So an update for June 08th 2010.

As most know, it is often easier to simply remove something and not put it back in.

When I blew my engine in 2004, The AC came Out, The Power Steering came Out.

I soon found out that the stock cooling pump sucked in traffic, so the primary loop was removed as well as the T-Stat. With the T-Stat out, the heater core came out as well. So The Coolant has no choice but to go through the rad every time.

the engine temperature is rarely consistent, and is always below 85 Degrees.

The Mechanical Cooling Pump is coming OUT!
A Shorter belt is going to the only thing belt driven, The Alternator.
A 1/2' Aluminum plate is going to cover the hole where the pump was and is being sealed, plus the location of the old pump will be bored out a bit by hand as the shape is no longer required for the centrifugal pump..

The Haltech has the ability to control everything from solid rocket boosters, to Flat-Shifting.

The Pump will be set to a 5% minimum duty, (Digital Pulsed Signal with a solid state relay) and be ramped up to a target as controlled by the Haltech.
It will be set to maintain a steady temperature of 90 Degrees C in conjunction with another channel controlling a variable speed fan.

In short, the new pump is the thermostat, but because the pump is not driven by the engine, it does not drag the engine down.

A mechanical pump is almost useless at low speeds (Like Stuck In Traffic)
A mechanical pump is almost useless at high engine speeds (Cavitation)

http://www.daviescraig.com.au/Electric_Water_Pumps-EWP80__12V__ELECTRIC_WATER_PUMP___PART_No__8005-details.aspx