The product is called HP-100 and it was an extra 1.50 a sq.ftQuote:
Originally Posted by Mitsu3000gt
Whats the guage of the cabinets from CT? looks like a decent deal, decently wide.
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The product is called HP-100 and it was an extra 1.50 a sq.ftQuote:
Originally Posted by Mitsu3000gt
Whats the guage of the cabinets from CT? looks like a decent deal, decently wide.
I noticed this as well from the contractor who did mine, they did a grey bottom coat, then a top coat of the light grey I wanted
Thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by A2VR6
I couldn't find a gauge listed anywhere, not even on the box, but I wanted a really big cabinet so this was perfect. Weight is 147 lbs if I recall. It's quite thick though and each shelf can apparently hold 300lbs with the bottom holding 400lbs (I personally wouldn't put that much weight on them but they are decent). Nothing is flimsy at all, in my opinion. The doors lock (top and bottom) and have magnets to keep them closed which is a nice touch. It's packed super well, nothing was bent, and every screw has a machined/threaded hole to go into so you don't have to fight it at all. Hinges are pre-installed on the doors. It also has that clearcoat type stuff over the sheet metal so it feels better and is more durable than simple powder coated metal.
Mostly done making my 50x30' shop brighter. Here's a left vs right. Left are original florescent tubes. Right is the new LED stuff.
https://i.imgur.com/6nRNh9gh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/U11WkBDh.jpg
And a video. I'd love to replace my pos black and decker cabinets with those metal ones posted. But I've committed my sticker game to my old cabinets already.
https://youtu.be/eacBzXW3fZY
LED lights used:
4’ LED tubes. 6 used per side. 2,360 lumens each. They include instructions to bypass the ballast used for the original florescents. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
8’ LED tubes. 4 used per side. 12,500 lumens each. These are awesome! You can chain 3 together if you want.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07...e?ie=UTF8&th=1
Too dark for a garage? Done previous garages in white and light grey so I wanted to go darker this time around. Have 8 1’x4’ LED panel lights going in so I don’t think it’ll be low on light.
» Click image for larger version
On the plus side it will be hard to see dirt on the walls with that colour. I have a buddy in Airdrie who has his garage painted in a similar shade of grey and I think its too dark. It makes the space feel small. But thats only IMHO.Quote:
Originally Posted by 88CRXToo dark for a garage? Done previous garages in white and light grey so I wanted to go darker this time around. Have 8 1’x4’ LED panel lights going in so I don’t think it’ll be low on light.
» Click image for larger version
Medium grey looks classy.
Classy.... exactly what i was going for.Quote:
Originally Posted by ExtraSlow
Proslat 8 x 4 foot sections come with a free hook kit (59.99 value) on costco.ca , ends today.
https://www.costco.ca/proslat-8-ft.-...100009387.html
Bump, because I'm thinking of building a detached next year. 26x27 and don't want to forget something that's simple to do when planning.
-floor drain
-vent fan
-upgrade to 200A service to future proof for electric car(s)
Not sure which way your trusses will run, but the cost would be minimal to do 26x28 ft.Quote:
Originally Posted by arcticcat522
with 2 ft centers that extra foot likely wont cost you anything
Trusses will run the long way. Don't think I can squeeze 28 deep. Well, maybe. Any reason not to have the garage door on the gable end. Planning on having the garage door on the non gable end
Attachment 95239Attachment 95240Attachment 95242Attachment 95243
Something like this
that's how i would do it if i did it again.
I did mine 26x28 trusses the other direction no vault. i find that my garage door header expands and contracts leaving a gap at the top when its cold. i could fit a lift now, but it would be way better if i vaulted it.
Edit: i also did an 18x8 door which is nice to have.
I was strongly considering doing 2- 9 foot doors rather than the 1 - 16. But the lane is fairly tight to make the turn I imaging. Also, I love the idea of the extra space on the one side to use as a work shop area
Make the o/h door(s) as wide as possible. Even in you're going to use one side for storage make them wider!
Someone on here recommended that, which we did (actually saved us money) and they're awesome. Our double is 18' and our single is 9'.
In terms of floor drain, I always liked what Mario @ concrete innovations did: https://concreteinnovations.ca/blog/...nd+overview/52
(since I assume you're not actually plumbing your garage into the sewer main).
Love that 6' wide roll-up, but I'd question whether it was worth the money, loss of insulation, and (imo) most importantly loss of wall-space. Garage wall space is great for storing shit; I'd be sad to lose 6' of it.
Ya, saw that. That or something similar with the udrain one I saw in here. The 6' roll up is just going to be roughed in with the header. Might not even cut out the concrete for it now. Reason for it would be if we get too many toys, there is a place front of where the door would be that is about 3m x 5m that would be a good spot for a side by side or something. It would be well hidden and couldn't get out without going through a tree or back out the garage. I figure it wouldn't add too much cost to slap a header in there now. Would use the wall space and could decide if the time came, what was more important. Any idea on the cost of the header? Ball park?
For the drain, would it be foolish to tie it into wheeling tile around the foundation of the garage? Maybe add a back flow valve?
I beleive it has to drain into the sewer same as your basement drain.
I don’t think that’s legal actually? I thought it was discussed, all you can do is have a sump.Quote:
Originally Posted by roopi
Edit: https://forums.beyond.ca/threads/379...ge-Floor-Drain
I guess it’s semi legal? Haha
