1995 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution 3 (not running)
Vehicle Details
1995:
Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution 3:
White:
Grey:
Manual:
103000 :
Edmonton:
95 evo 3 originally imported by myself in may of 2010 bone stock @ 74.5k km. The timing belt went shortly after so @ 78.5k km the build began. Currently has 103xxxkm on body.
Engine w/ just under 25000km. Both head and block were built by cambell automotive.
Evo 8 crank
Wiseco 9:1 forged pistons .020" over
Eagle h beam rods
Arp fasteners every where
Balance shaft removal
New oem oil pump
MLS head gasket
Head was port and polished
FP 1x cams
FP behive valve springs and evo8 retainers
Stock valves
Hks timing belt
Stock evo 3 intake/exhaust mani
FP 68HTA turbo
New friction surface on fidanza aluminum flywheel (they're replaceable)
Clutch masters fx400 clutch (replaced at same time, believe they have about 2k km)
Fuel:
Braided lines, Walbro 255lph pump, a1000 FPR
Injector dynamics 750cc injectors
Susp and brakes:
Bc racing br coilovers
Hel ss lines
Motul 5.1 fluid
Dba4000 slotted front discs and hawk hp+ pads
Powerslot rear discs on stock pads
Cusco brake stop
Ecu and tuning:
Vipec v44 ecu
Tuned @ 93xxxkm (15000 on the built engine) by Cam at light speed. Tuned to 18psi. It made 300awhp/290tq
NOW ALL THAT SAID.
It's not running. I'll explain best i can. I took it out of the garage in summer 2018 to putt around with on weekends. Since 2014 i may have put 3k km on it? Anyway it was burning oil at idle. So i did a comp test and it read 165-165-155-160. Not bad, believe factory is 180. This didn't answer any questions so i borrowed a leak down, and this is where everything went to shit. I took it out, warmed it up, brought it into my garage and went to work. Tested @ 80psi. Cyl 2 and 3 were both fine, 2-3psi loss. Cyl 1 had full blow by holding 0 psi and was blowing through # 2 spark. Cyl 4 was fine, 2-3psi loss. Having just driven the car to heat it up, i know it wasn't running on 3 cylinders. I retested number 1 and had the same result. The oil and coolant are both fine so i dont suspect it's a head gasket failure. Again, the car drove fine other than the blue smoke on idle. My mistake was not turning the crank over and retesting to see if it was a stuck valve.
So i said fuck it, buttoned the car back up and was going to just reposition it in my garage as it was now fall and i didn't feel like doing more work in a cold garage. I went to start it and just heard clanking and it wouldn't start. Turns out one of my starter bolts came loose, and in my garage while i was trying to crank it i broke a mounting ear on the starter(i i have brand new starter in box). I found this out this spring once it warmed up. So now i have the starter, but before i put it on i tried doing more investigating into why that cylinder had complete blow by during the leak down. Pulled the tire, tried to turn the engine by hand and found that it is sticking during some rotation, and then will free turn. Its honestly feels like something might be bent. I pulled the valve cover and everything top end looks fine. The next step would be to pull the timing belt to seperate bottom end from top, and see if it is still hard to turn or not to eliminate one end from the other.
And i just don't feel like it.
I put a shit ton of money into this thing over the years, and now i just want it gone. I have a bunch of spare extra parts. I'm buying a new vehicle and don't have the space for 3 so I'm willing to let this thing go pretty damn cheap, unfortunately. Throughout its life i maintained it extremely well, it very rarely saw winters(and hasn't since 2013). I'm going to say 3000$ to take it as much as it pains me to say.
lots, please contact:
3000$ :
Contact Information
[email protected]:
780 215 five three four five :
on mobile, please text or email for them:
