Are those bullet holes in the door or old fashioned sidemirror brackets.
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Are those bullet holes in the door or old fashioned sidemirror brackets.
Old school mirror mounts. Have to make sure the bolts get sealed up after paint, the rust always starts there on these trucks.
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Next is valvetrain, fitting the promagnum rockers to the trickflow heads. I have to mill some clearance into the pedestals where they are touching and shim the rockers to center the rollers onto the valve tips. Its a lot more work than I anticipated.
I bought a new to the market brand 4150 style carb that turned out to be complete junk, stuck secondaries right out of the box. The original intention was to buy a cheap carb and send it to a carb shop in the US to have it modded to their specs. The cheap carb needed a lot more work than I intended to have done, so in the end it was cheaper to buy a quick fuel 880 and just do the tuning.
The lifter bores were too far gone so they had to be bushed, the rotating assembly was balanced and I had to grind a lot of clearance into the block to get counterweight clearance.
Tires got mounted and balanced, went with the bean bag balance method.
I degree'd the cam and had read about some of the timing chain sets having he markings on the gears way out of whack. This is a Comp timing set, and the marks were off one tooth to get the intake lobe at 107deg center line.
I ended up with a rocker to retainer clearance issue, and when I did a full sweep of the valvetrain with checker pushrods and springs, the scrub pattern wasn't perfect on the valve tips, it started in the center and went to exhaust side then back with a scrub width of .069. It would work but would load the guides more, so I am now waiting on a geometry correction kit that will also raise the rockers and fix that issue at the same time.
Frame is stripped bare and readying for blast and paint.
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Deep sump pan with windage tray.
The timing marks with the engine at TDC and the cam in the right place.
The defective carb with the stuck secondaries, they didn't even seal equally when close.
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The valvetrain geometry ended up needing some correction. I got the chassis back from being powder coated.
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Engine complete, I'm looking for engine dyno time now.
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I put the suspension on with the chassis upside down the flipped it with the tractor.
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Rolling chassis , bending up new stainless lines and putting all the heat shielding back on.Attachment 101410
What brand was the carb, a quickfuel?
That was a F.s.t. brand, who offered to fix it, but with cross border shipping and brokerage headaches on service and return parts, I couldn't take the chance of it coming back with other problems, so I returned it to Summit for a Quickfuel. A few hundred bucks more,but the Quickfuel has everything operating smoothly out of the box. I have to say Summit is excellent to deal with, any problem and they take care of it quickly.
Drivetrain is in the chassis.
I ran into an issue with the front driveshaft running into the crossmember. Had to come up with a 2 piece driveshaft for the front.
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Great work
Is the chassis painted or power coated?
I feel like your skill level on this is crazy. Love it. Are you a machinist or something?
Overdrive adds a good foot onto the back of the transmission, it's quite the drivetrain stack. My jeep has the same setup (with a less beefy tcase)
I started on the exhaust finally. I bought the cold cut metal saw which really made cutting stainless tubing a super easy task.
The headers terminate on a really bad angle on the outside of the frame rails, so I had to do some custom radius pie cut pieces to correct the plane of the exhaust, and fit the big muffers in there. I chose dynomax 3.5" mufflers in stainless, basically only thing I could find in stock. I am not sure how loud it will be, but i'm guessing it will probably set off it's fair share of car alarms.Attachment 105867Attachment 105868Attachment 105869Attachment 105870Attachment 105871