Clutch has started to engage at different positions when driving.
Clutch doesn't slip but the different engagement positions is getting annoying.
Sometime is difficult to get into first gear as well.
Thoughts ? Thanks.
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Clutch has started to engage at different positions when driving.
Clutch doesn't slip but the different engagement positions is getting annoying.
Sometime is difficult to get into first gear as well.
Thoughts ? Thanks.
Hydraulic clutch? Slave is leaking is a good possibility.
Have you ever changed the fluid? My best guess is it's full of moisture and rusted the slave cylinder, making it sticky.
Can try bleeding it. Very likely a slave starting to go. Cheap and easy part and repair to do on a honda.
Gonna try bleeding it this weekend. Off to PA for a vacuum bleeder kit ASAP.
Depending how bad,
stop on a flat road
put it in 1st
Keep clutch pedal pushed
Hold and wait to see if your car starts to move.
A poor man's test to see if clutch MC is leaking.
But would also indicate air too I suppose.
My bet is on the slave cylinder.
Just gravity bleed. Much easier.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nufy
Maybe he doesn't have a friend?Quote:
Originally Posted by Misterman
Not everyone is Conan O'Brien.
Did that this morning.
Sat in first gear for almost 5 minutes...No movement.
Left leg is killing me now...LOL
Quote:
Originally Posted by mr2mike
Isn't gravity bleed a 1-man method?Quote:
Originally Posted by mr2mike
Which is exactly why you would gravity bleed. And why it's easiest method. Hang a hose into a drain pan, open the bleeder, top up master cyl as required.Quote:
Originally Posted by mr2mike
Gravity bleeding sucks, especially on clutch systems. You can run 5 liters of fluid through the system and still have air trapped in it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Misterman
For one man bleeding. Pump the clutch pedal five times, hold the clutch pedal down onto the floor with a prybar in-between the driver's seat and the pedal. Crack the bleeder screw, lift the pedal off the floor and pump again. Do this a few times, way better than gravity bleeding.
SO dumb question...
If I can pry my son away from his computer all he needs to do is to pump the clutch to push new fluid through the system correct ?
Crack open the bleeder and watch the new fluid flow.
I just need to ensure that the reservoir is always full of fresh fluid...
Push pedal lightly, open bleeder, let pedal fall, when the pedal hits bottom close the bleeder and slowly return the pedal to the top. You will need to communicate.
You want to force fluid through the system with pressure. The pressurized fluid moving through the system with take any trapped air out with it.
Get your son to pump the clutch pedal five times and hold it to floor. Then crack the bleeder, fluid will spray out, then close the bleeder. The clutch pedal will now be stuck on the floor and won't come up by its self, your son will have to lift up the pedal then start pumping again to build pressure back up in the system. After you do this a few times, check the level in the reservoir. Don't let the reservoir run dry. Every time you crack the bleeder you will have to lift the pedal off the floor. After the first pump or two the pedal should come back up by its self, if it does not you still have air in the system. Clutch systems are hard to bleed and may take a bit of time and fluid. I'm sure there is a boat load of videos on YouTube on how to bleed clutches.
Can't add much more. Good advice above.
Depending where the bleeder port is, that's what causes issues. Air gets trapped.
I've seen methods of tapping with a rubber mallet work to get air to move to the bleed port.
Flushed the fluid this weekend. No change.
Seems ok when cold but gets worse as the engine heats up.
Heat affecting the slave cylinder seals maybe ?
Ordered a master / slave from RA so will see if it makes a difference.
When you bleed the system, what did the fluid look like? Did it come out clean or like a black slurry? When the seals in the master/slave start to break down it creates a black mess in the fluid.
Do you have a high frequency vibration or odd feeling in the clutch pedal when you press it? I think the clutch pressure plate spring is broken, or the engine crankshaft is loosing its thrust bearings.
Thrust bearings would put metal flakes in the oil if you looked closely.
When you bleed the system, what did the fluid look like?
Did it come out clean or like a black slurry? When the seals in the master/slave start to break down it creates a black mess in the fluid.
Clean.
Do you have a high frequency vibration or odd feeling in the clutch pedal when you press it? I think the clutch pressure plate spring is broken, or the engine crankshaft is loosing its thrust bearings.[/QUOTE]
No vibration or frequency noises.
As the clutch disk wears, the engagement point is going to travel upwards. If it consistently grabs in the last quarter of pedal travel, I would stop here and put a clutch in it. If it grabs right off of the floor and is hard to get into gear, that is usually a hydraulic problem. Or someone has fucked with the master cylinder push rod adjustment.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nufy
From your description, it sometimes grabs close to the floor. Then sometimes grabs at the end of pedal travel? And it changes with temperature. Something is moving and changing the engagement point.
If the crankshaft moves horizontally in the engine block this will change clutch feel. As the clutch is bolted to the crankshaft and the hydraulics to the transmission case. With a big screwdriver or prybar push the balancer (crankshaft pulley) into the timing cover with like 10 pounds of force, then pry it back out away from the timing cover again with like 10 pounds. The amount the balancer moves is crankshaft end play, the max spec for this is 0.45mm. If you have a problem it will move a few mm.
I have seen pressure plate diaphragm springs cause weird engagement problems. This is a hard one to look at with the transmission installed. If you peel back the dust boot around the slave cylinder and use a small mirror or bore scope. Inspect the fingers on the pressure plate where they contact the release bearing. All of the fingers should be the same height, you may have to rotate the engine to see it all. If some of the fingers are contacting the release bearing and some are not, the pressure plate is bad. Do not rotate the engine counter clockwise, it can jump time.
Seeing that bleeding the hydraulics did not fix the problem, most likely the transmission is coming out, if the transmission is coming out, its going to get a clutch kit and flywheel. Don't bother trying to machine the flywheel, just buy a new one.
I hope this helps.
Swapped the Master and slave cylinder with new parts / fluid etc...
Issue remains. Starting to think its the throw out bearing.
If I have to open it up for that...might as well do the clutch as well seeing as it is at about 150k on the original.
It is an accord 6x6... theres too much power flowing through that clutch system to last long!