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Bump...Prices dropped on many items!

^^
Not entirely sure what is wrong with it, the LSD seems to lock one wheel when you turn... could be an easy fix. Also, one of the mount bolt holes was shaved down a bit on the outer case but is...

Yes, it lacks the power steering portion.

All prices are negotiable, B-series clutch added also.

H-series (Prelude)
H22a intake manifolds (no TB or injectors) - $40 each
H22a4 SH head and block (condition unknown, but seems to have compression) - $100
H22a distributors- $60 each
H22a Red...

Used but in decent condition, this is the strongest stock viscous LSD you can find from Nissan. It is a short snout case and uses 6 bolt (equidistant bolt circle) output shafts. Axles are included,...

4 or 5 lug it doesn't matter - pm me with a price please.

Looking for S13/S14 spindles, LCA's, and tension rods. Also looking for specifically S14 tension rod brackets.

Lemme know what you've got by PM, thank you.

From the link you posted..

"Human faeces can contain significant B12"

Congratulations vegans.

My guess would be tickets :)

Hey Punit give me a call, I need to look at it to make sure it is running right... not just joe-schmo with k-pro and a laptop. :banghead:

OBD0 peak and hold injectors will not fit on any OBD1 or OBD2 civic/teg injector plugs. Only the F and H series engines used peak and hold injectors in OBD1, and the plugs are physically dissimilar. ...

Don't bother with pulling the injectors..

Turn your voltmeter to the nearest setting to 12v (usually 20V on the meter), test the black and red wires on your battery to show 12v.

Unclip one...

Ah man, you said in your other post you had spark.. what gives? lol

It would still spray fuel even if the dizzy was unplugged.

-If the spark plugs are wet after cranking it over you have a...

It should fire, but not run on the y7 ecu. At very least you should hear the injectors open and close when you turn the key to the on position. If it does not, you have wiring issue.

ECU most likely. Throw the stock y7 ecu on there and see if it fires up.

Anyone wanna buy one? I've got two lol...

The one in the OP's post was owned by someone I knew, and is now owned by an older gentleman..

I liked the pictures, got any more?

Agreed, the C-train needs a cow-catcher on the front..

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_tg3WAY2Z6KY/SAT0Rn1zn4I/AAAAAAAACiw/D-IiPL2Mh3E/s400/cowcatcher.jpg

Much like this, but replace the cow pictured...

BuMp

Quick question for ya bud... those studs weren't threaded in there tight with that ratchet were they?

Yeah worldpac is ok for some stuff, but critical parts like headgasket and bearings I would only use OEM supplied.

For non-critical parts, take the water pump for example - Worldpac sells them...

haha smart ass... I was reading his info, not the thread obviously. I'd like to contend that the accord ignitor WOULD work in a 91 civic ;)

Yeahhh.. so it is 100% the ignitor then. Someone has a full distributor for sale on Kijiji for an accord, or you can pick one up at pick n pull for cheap.

Well oxidation builds up on them, and then changes in temperature can cause intermittent problems. If the ignitor is going bad it acts quite similar to this as well. Bogging in general is always more...

9 times out of 10 that is the ignitor.. trying cleaning the contacts first.
http://img31.imageshack.us/img31/5605/ignitor8du.jpg

http://z.about.com/d/autorepair/1/0/5/X/42132021.gif

Yeah probably related to the turbo timer wiring Brian.. try unplugging it completely.

Haha yeah well technically it was the fast idle thermo valve then.. low coolant would result in the FITV staying in full open, and the ECU flipping out because it would read warm but the IACV isn't...

Partsource or napa might carry it.

No worries, best of luck :thumbsup:

edit: ^^^ Ah u bugger, you beat me to it by 2 minutes..

If it is idling that high I can garauntee you that it is not the IACV.. you have a vacuum leak. If the idle jumps irradically, that jumping...

Have you tried both auto-value and partsource? I wouldn't drive it like that, it is very hard on the lower control arm bushings, tie rod and tire.

It's gotta be volts not ohms..

It is positively the radius rod.

The radius rod controls front to back movement (caster), so if lower control arm bushings are worn you'll also get toe movement which will cause the car to steer.....

yeah, the control arm is numbers 7 and 8 in that picture I posted... quite different from the radius rod. It looks like you are missing the rubber bushing on the end of the radius rod as well.

lol thats not the lower control arm... it is the radius rod. It controls caster, very limited affect on toe.

#6 in this picture.
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/jsp/catimgs/13sk70_b2710.gif

Please note, if he decides to part out the car, much of it will be parted out whole. Ie, engine goes with intake, valve cover MSD ignition etc, it is hard to sell an engine missing half of its parts....

Ok, so whats the charge? Assault? lol

*** POSTING FOR A FRIEND, DO NOT PM ME - TEXT THE NUMBER BELOW IF INTERESTED ***

I've got an OEM ITR 4-1 (tube)if you're interested