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Thread: First wax

  1. #1
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    Default First wax

    Hey guys, well im going to do my first wax of the season on saturday and i bought a new car this winter and its black. any one know whats the best wax to use on a black car, to bring out the color and shine the best? and to also protect. I usually stick to mecquires(spelling) orignal or tech wax. what others you guys like? thanks!

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    You can never go wrong with the Klasse twins. They tend to provide better "pop" on lighter coloured cars, however.

    Bar none Pinnacle Souveran paste wax gives the most depth on darks and reds. At ~$100 it is incredibly pricey though. Lower cost alternatives include P21S/S100, Clearkote Carnauba Moose, Natty's Blue, Poorboy's EX or Meg's #26. I prefer to use these as "toppers" and use something as a base, like Klasse. This combo would certainly be durable enough for a daily driver.

    SHIFT_

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    .
    Last edited by kaput; 03-22-2019 at 05:58 PM.

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    where do you get this klasse and how much is it?

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    claybar + mequirs mtx (or whatever the hell its called)

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    My car is black and honestly the best wax I've ever used is Turtle Wax Color Cure. It fills in almost all fine scratches and small paint chips that are on your vehicle.

    I do the Mothers 3-Step system early April, and late October, and use Turtle Wax Color Cure all the other times. Honestly for the price it's worth a try, as I said it's the best I've ever used on a black car. Canadian Tire sells it, and so does Superstore I believe.
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    Originally posted by 88CRX
    claybar + mequirs mtx (or whatever the hell its called)
    Yep, clay bar is essential.

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    Claybar = INCREDIBLY essential!

    I would NEVER wax a car without claying it first. Otherwise, you might as well use fine grit sanpaper on the car first!

    Best 10 bucks you can spend, bar-none!

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    Originally posted by Bonka
    You can never go wrong with the Klasse twins. They tend to provide better "pop" on lighter coloured cars, however.

    Bar none Pinnacle Souveran paste wax gives the most depth on darks and reds. At ~$100 it is incredibly pricey though. Lower cost alternatives include P21S/S100, Clearkote Carnauba Moose, Natty's Blue, Poorboy's EX or Meg's #26. I prefer to use these as "toppers"
    You sound like a fellow "Autopian".

    Honestly most people on THIS forum aren't going to have a clue what you're talking about.

    Anyway this thread starter sounds like he's just interested in whatever he can pick up at a local retail store, not expensive boutique products that have to be mail ordered.

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    Originally posted by CappyMcSlappy
    I would NEVER wax a car without claying it first. Otherwise, you might as well use fine grit sanpaper on the car first!
    I don't think you have a good understanding of what the claying step is for and what it does.

    Waxing an unclayed car is not going to cause you to move the grit around the surface of the paint. If the embedded contaminents could come out of the paint that easily then you wouldn't need to clay in the first place. Think about it.

    The real purpose of the claying step is to remove those embedded contaminents that you can't otherwise remove from polishing. And by removing them you create as smooth a surface a possible, which helps your subsequent polishing steps be more effective, AND helps your final protection step (wax/sealant) to bond to the paint better. THIS is why its important. (Not to mention that some of those embedded contaminents, such as rail dust, if left for a prolonged period of time could permently damage your clearcoat.)

    But just for clarification, there is no HARM in polishing and waxing an unclayed car. Its just BETTER to, from your *results* standpoint, especially if you're anal about these things. Your car's paint will feel better (to the touch) and look better, if you clay.
    Last edited by Inzane; 04-10-2006 at 11:03 AM.

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    any one know where to get a very good power polise done and ruffly whats the prices? i relized my car is going to take more than a clay bar and wax.

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    Originally posted by Bonka
    You can never go wrong with the Klasse twins. They tend to provide better "pop" on lighter coloured cars, however.
    I've been waxing cars since the 80's and nothing comes close to the shine & durablility of the Klasse twins. I waxed my new Stone White SRT-4 in August and even after being driven all winter, water still beads off it like I just waxed it last week.

    Also as someone said you do not want to use the clay bar on new paint. The clay bar is for removing old layers of wax and contaminants, since your paint is reletively new, a cleaner wax followed by a sealer wax will suffice.

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    Originally posted by heavyD
    The clay bar is for removing old layers of wax and contaminants,
    The clay bar is mainly for the embedded contaminants. If all you want to do is remove old wax an ordinary dish detergent like Dawn will suffice. If you want to remove surface contamination, chemical cleaners like Meguiar's "Paint Cleaner" and Klasse All-In-One will do that job. (the cleaners will address old wax too).

    As far as new cars go, its a good idea to do something about the rail dust. All new cars have it. Clay is one of the only ways to effectively remove that. Dealerships claim they have a "chemical" means for dealing with that too, but I'm a bit skeptical about that, but I haven't actually seen how it works first hand.

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    Originally posted by Inzane
    If all you want to do is remove old wax an ordinary dish detergent like Dawn will suffice.
    I don't claim to be an expert but I have read many articles on detailing and using dish soap is always considered a no-no.

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    who wants to wax my car for the low price of free ninety nine

    haha

    .. honestly i was thinking about waxing my car, but i am very unsure how to do so, where is the best place i can take my car to get it professionally done and what am i looking to pay?

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    Originally posted by heavyD


    I don't claim to be an expert but I have read many articles on detailing and using dish soap is always considered a no-no.


    I would never use dish-soap on my car. Use the clay bar before hand instead.
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    if my car really needs it i claybar it then i polish it with turtle was polisher, then put a nice coat of turtle wax super hard greed, then finish it off with a coat of meguirs gold wax. though i may try the klasse twins stuff if you guys are getting that good of results from it

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    Originally posted by heavyD


    I don't claim to be an expert but I have read many articles on detailing and using dish soap is always considered a no-no.
    Yes that's true... its bad mainly because it will strip the oils and wax from your paint. (that's the reason its widely discouraged) But that's beside the point anyway. I was only using it as an example to show that you don't need clay to remove WAX... there are plenty of products that will do that and that's not the purpose of why you use the claying step.

    Clay removes what you can't get off with the type of products mentioned below vvvvvvvvv

    If you look at the Mother's or Meguiar's 3-step consumer line, the first step is a "paint cleaner". Other products like Meg's #9 Swirl Remover, #83 Dual-Action Cleaner Polish, and Medallion Paint Cleaner, and Klasse All-In-One are paint cleaners too. And there are many others, too many to list. Pretty much every line of detailing products has something to serve this purpose. Some are mainly chemical cleaners, some use some level of abrasives, some use both. But all those products serve the purpose of cleaning off old wax and surface contaminants, and are safe for your paint.

    The claybar has one purpose.
    Last edited by Inzane; 04-10-2006 at 01:53 PM.

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    Klasse rules.

    My bi-annual detailing regiment (once in the spring, once before winter) is as follows:

    wash
    clay
    polish (poorboys #2.5 and #1 or similar) with the Porter Cable
    2 coats of Klasse All in One
    3-5 coats of Klasse Sealant Glaze
    2-3 coats of Meguiar's #26

    Edit: There is really no need to clay your car more than 1-2 times per year unless you park your car where it gets tree sap on it or industrial fallout on a regular basis. ditto for polishing.
    Last edited by TimG; 04-11-2006 at 12:10 PM.
    Tim

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    Is there anything that will remove swirls and scratches? I have a professional polisher, and I bought some Meguire's swirl remover, and it didn't really make a difference. I bought the swirl remover at an auto paint shop. Will clay bar help for swirls? Also what does the number mean (ie: meguiars #26)?
    Last edited by rony_espana; 04-11-2006 at 01:54 PM.

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