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Thread: Oils! Is there any difference and what?

  1. #1
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    Default *MOD DELETE!* making new thread!

    I drive a 94 EG, and it sais 5w30 but i have a lil bit of oil problems, burn off at high RPMS... soo a hevier oil might be better. i know lucas oil stabilizer works REALLY well! at conserving my oil.. but is there a difference in brands in 5w30's all thos peak performance, high milage, high performance w.e.... and is it better to run 5w30 or 10w30 even if you car sais 5w... Thanks
    Last edited by dub_686; 05-28-2006 at 05:56 PM.

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    If you choose to use 10W30 during winter be sure you garage your car or plug it in if it's going to stay outside for a long time. Other than that there should be no problem.

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    anyone else that has info? I know that the Oil stabilizer is a very thick version of oil, and VERY sticky! so it seals your seals and valves and such soo it does raise my overall Xw30 values... So in a way iam just converting conventional 5w30 into a say 7w30 with high strength formula... Soo maybe i should stick with my current idea...

    and is there any diff in all those other oils??? brands? types... and what not!!! PLEASE answer!

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    Run what the manufacturer states - which in your case would be 5w30.

    If your burning more oil than normal then you have more issues at hand than just changing oil weight.

    If your bouncing of the limiter than losing oil is common. You should define what is high rpm.

    XwY
    X--> Winter Weight
    Y--> Summer Weight

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    This is the RPM that it burns: usually above 4,000RPM. mostly at 5,000 Plus

    But the odd ocations i get it 3,500 but only light tufts... usually a noticable ammount just a light cloud above 4,500RPM... Thanks!

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    BUMP> any more info

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    How many kms on the engine? Maybe you need a rebuild... sounds like it could be valve guides/seals. Exhaust valve guides are the first to wear out on practically any motor, and the result is oil burning under accelleration. Bad valve guide seals do essentially the same thing. A compression test will help rule out bad piston rings. A quick visual inspection of the exhaust and intake sides of the head with the manifolds off will tell you if your guides or seals are toast.

    Using a heavier oil is not the answer IMO.

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    Originally posted by speedracer

    XwY
    X--> Winter Weight
    Y--> Summer Weight
    No.

    X is cold viscosity
    Y is operating temperature viscosity

    Personally I use 5w30 Mobil 1 because in my opinion, the lower the cold viscosity, the better in any situation. Full Synthetic since there is no comparison to natural oils. Plus boost.

    Another opinion is to NEVER use additives. Lucas specifically will cause excessive foaming in your oil. Who knows what other chemical balances other additives are screwing up?
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    Okay, hmm sounds good... ill get a compression test done, and i think T&T honda should know if my valves are toast... right?? but no worries they wont feed me bs!! hahah anyway I dont have cash for a rebuild but i will just take er in i guess get the problem rulled out... soo if it was piston rings wouldnt it burn oil alot of the time???

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    Originally posted by Ashkente


    Another opinion is to NEVER use additives. Lucas specifically will cause excessive foaming in your oil. Who knows what other chemical balances other additives are screwing up?
    I've never heard about that about Lucas. I was going to start running their oil stabillizer in my car. I don't have any problems, I was just going to do it as a precautionary measure. I run Mobil1 synthetic right now in my engine that has less than 20,000 km. After reading that it foams, I'm definitely going to rethink this.

    Thanks for that tip!

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    ^^^
    Yeah I put some in an RX7 rotary once.. and then it died

    Originally posted by dub_686
    Okay, hmm sounds good... ill get a compression test done, and i think T&T honda should know if my valves are toast... right?? but no worries they wont feed me bs!! hahah anyway I dont have cash for a rebuild but i will just take er in i guess get the problem rulled out... soo if it was piston rings wouldnt it burn oil alot of the time???
    If the rings were gone it would generally burn a lot of oil at startup, or when revving the motor... so yeah a lot of the time. I wouldnt count on a dealership like TnT not trying to feed you a little BS. They are in it to make money plain and simple, and want as much of your business as they can get.

    Upon visual inspection of the exhaust valve stems a black oily buildup usually indicates a severe oil burning issue related to either the valve guide seals or the valve guide itself. To see them requires removing the exhaust manifold, probably a little more labour than TnT would be willing to do just to diagnose your oil burning issue.

    As I said before additives and oils are just a band-aid fix to a likely high mileage related issue. Rebuilding or swapping in another engine are your best bets for an effective solution to the oil burning issue.

    PS. If your compression test checks out, PM me for a number of a very reasonable head rebuilding shop.

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    time for a new motor!!!

    may I suggest b16a?

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    Hey does anybody know what those Lucas Oil Stabilizer's actually due?

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    Originally posted by andres_mt
    Hey does anybody know what those Lucas Oil Stabilizer's actually due?
    From what I've seen, it makes the oil more "sticky". This allows more of a film to stick to the cyclinder walls to allow for better lubrication and sealling. I don't know if it changes the viscosity, but when you pour it, it's really, really thick.

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    well, what ive changed to is a semi-syntec, and its the Quaker state High RPM, made to last under high pressure and high heat... ill keep you guys posted on how well it lasts, and hopfully it turns out well.. so far ive had no oil burn off at 4,000RPM.. and no valve clicking anymore..

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    I've just switched to Full Synthetic Castrol 10W30 and my engine runs so nicely. Never going back to conventional.

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    ^^^ what do you drive that you have 10w30 in er?

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    Full synthetic Mobil 1 5w30
    Quote Originally Posted by heavyfuel View Post
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    That's why I just say I have a 4" dick and lift weights to make up for it.
    Quote Originally Posted by 89coupe View Post
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    My car sounds like shit.

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    Iv been doing some research and i cant figure out whats the best stuff, castrol syntec, mobil1, or royal purple. what you guys think?

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    I prefer Mobil 1 because it's full synthetic (not a blend), and it's not a pain in the ass to get. Superstore ftw. (If anyone knows cheaper, speak up! )
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