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Thread: Never worry about Rust again

  1. #21
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    Your battery negative being connected to the body and frame already provides some limited cathodic protection.

    Aren't most cars zinc coated on the underside anyways?

    I know you can get metallic zinc paint sprays, and they're quite cheap. They sell them for farm equipment and stuff.

  2. #22
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    I've got one of those little corrosion modules installed on my car when i bought it awhile back. Whether it'll work or not only time will tell.

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    "She takes premium dude! PREMIUM!!! DUDE!!!!"

  3. #23
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    Can't remember the exact reason, but in my materials class in Uni, we learned that a sacrifical anode does not work on cars. I believe it had something to do with the car not being grounded (actual ground), and local rust protection like galvanizing worked the best.

    I'll try to find my notes.

  4. #24
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    so.......is there anyway i could prepare my car for winter like a spray on kinda thing to protect it better from rusting instead of trying out this electronic rust protection?

  5. #25
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    Just wash your car when it gets above freezing

    Warm temperatures and salt on the body is bad.

  6. #26
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    I watched the commercial just now, and one thing that I dont like is the fine print said the guarentee is only valid if installed at Cdn Tire. Just the thought of the accidental scratches and scuffs I'll probably find on my car is enough to turn me away.

  7. #27
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    Or you could just buy a German car, as they have been galvanizing both sides of their body panels for years and won't rust for a long long time
    Audis have standard TWELVE (12) year warranties against body rust for a reason.

    Everything else (electronics, etc) will probably break after 10,000km and will cost $1000s to fix because it's German, but the body will NEVER rust.

  8. #28
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    It would have difficulty making a connection to "everywhere" on the car... but..

    If you sanded down the paint to metal in a couple of spots, and hit it with a positive current from the battery chances are it would spark, making a connection.

    Almost every car, every peice of metal is somehow grounded to the next.

    Whether its just by a small peice of metal, or the unibody construction of many cars.

  9. #29
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    As for the posts about why this rust protection wouldn't work, I don't think they apply. This is NOT cathodic/anodic protection. The ones mentioned rely on electrolysis which requires a conductive medium (like water), but the counteract one is supposedly designed to work in open air (its purely electrical). I'm not saying this will work, just that I don't think you need to be connected to ground for it to work.

    As far as I can tell, the technology seems sound on a "smooth-con-man-assuring-you-that-their-product-works-through-pseudo-scientific-jargon" kind of way, although I don't understand capacitance or if capacitive charge influences ionic charge.

    The Counteract site lists some universities that did independent testing on it...someone should contact them. I want to believe so badly!

  10. #30
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    Angry

    DONT WAIST YOUR MONIE PROOF THAT IT DOSE NOT WORK

    http://www.competitionbureau.gc.ca/i...emID=1038&lg=e
    where will the road take me?
    Certified Vale PDR Technitian

  11. #31
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    Originally posted by VeilOctane
    DONT WAIST YOUR MONIE PROOF THAT IT DOSE NOT WORK

    http://www.competitionbureau.gc.ca/i...=1038&lg=e
    Wouldn't exactly say it's proof it doesn't work?


    From your site (Government site)

    "At the Bureau's request, CAP performed additional tests on the device which were subsequently deemed by the Bureau to be adequate and proper. As a result of these additional test results, the Inquiry was discontinued on June 18, 2004.

    The Competition Bureau is an enforcement agency and does not approve or endorse products, therefore the discontinuance of this Inquiry does not constitute an approval."

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