I guess it's not considered a true trickle charger. It's an automatic unit with a 2-amp setting which I leave connected until it shuts off.
I guess it's not considered a true trickle charger. It's an automatic unit with a 2-amp setting which I leave connected until it shuts off.
aa that works too :P
This is what I did last winter with my celica:
Changed over to stock tires, inflated to max PSI + 2 pounds.
Left in neutral
Handbrake Off (A car sitting for that long with the ebrake on is verrrrrrry hard on the ebrake)
Left 1/4 Fuel in the car (I didnt add fuel stabalizer and its amazing how quickly your gas dissapears in the spring when you bring it out and start it, definately add stabalizer)
Blocks behind the rear tires
Disconnected the battery
You can put on a car cover if you want, not really a huge deal though.
I'd definately put it on axle stands if you have access to them.
Also it doesnt hurt to start it a few times in the winter and let it run for a bit so I've been told, I did 3 times total last winter.
Hello November, Goodbye Celica
when i want to start my car i leave the heater of for a bit with the engine block heater pluged in also. i try to start it once a week and let it get to full operating temp.
BTW: i have room in my garage for one car, if you are in need for a storage place PM me.
Do not store the car on jack stands!!!!!!!!!!!! Unless possibly bending the frame is more important than flat spots on tires which has never happened to me and I've stored many cars over the winter. Your cars shocks are there to ensure even distribution of weight on the frame as using stands will cause distortion of the frame and no matter how hard you try you will never be able to properly have the car sit evenly on jack stands. Terrible advise.
for the battery, do i have to remove the battery entirely, or can i just disconnect the battery?
also, i'll just be gone for a month and when i come back from my vacation, i plan to start the car once a week every week in the winter. would i still have to follow all those precautions in my situation? thanks!!!
Originally posted by beyond_ban
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...that was what I read on another forum too.Originally posted by heavyD
Do not store the car on jack stands!!!!!!!!!!!! Unless possibly bending the frame is more important than flat spots on tires which has never happened to me and I've stored many cars over the winter. Your cars shocks are there to ensure even distribution of weight on the frame as using stands will cause distortion of the frame and no matter how hard you try you will never be able to properly have the car sit evenly on jack stands. Terrible advise.
Wow thanks for the heads up. I had heard so many places referring to put it on jack stands. Makes senseOriginally posted by heavyD
Do not store the car on jack stands!!!!!!!!!!!! Unless possibly bending the frame is more important than flat spots on tires which has never happened to me and I've stored many cars over the winter. Your cars shocks are there to ensure even distribution of weight on the frame as using stands will cause distortion of the frame and no matter how hard you try you will never be able to properly have the car sit evenly on jack stands. Terrible advise.
I've always been told to not start the car up unless your going to drive it. To be idling at opperational temperatures for a while isn't effective enough. You need to drive it to get rid of the condensation in your engine. And yeah, no jack standsOriginally posted by nj2Type-S
for the battery, do i have to remove the battery entirely, or can i just disconnect the battery?
also, i'll just be gone for a month and when i come back from my vacation, i plan to start the car once a week every week in the winter. would i still have to follow all those precautions in my situation? thanks!!!
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No, YOU'RE on the wrong side
Please note the tyre pressure marked on the sidewall is the maximum pressure allowable for inflation - this is NOT pressure you should set your tyres to. Consult the owners manual , etc for the correct pressuresOriginally posted by GT-R rated
your tire pressures should be marked on the sidewalls, i'd recomend going about 5 psi over the rating to avoid flat spots.
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kuks this is for winter storage, not for driving on. he is trying to find ways of eliminating flat spots without lifting the vehicle.
Originally posted by New2Talon
How long before flat spots develop?
I also read that you shouldn't start your car in the winter during storage. You are better off to leave it alone completely. My Type R had zero problems starting up again in the spring. I'd get an oil change after you start driving again in the spring.
is it better to add fuel stabilizer when you put her away (and then do you take her out for a spin when its nice, or leave it all winter??) or add a bottle after you take her out in spring (to help with the skunky gas thats been in there all winter)
can i just leave my summer tires on my car and over-inflating them? or is it a MUST to change to a set of older tires? thanks!
Originally posted by beyond_ban
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new2talon
fuel stabalizer is a preventitive mesure, you add it to ensure your gas doesnt go skunky. Add it before.
Everything described before are helpful adivises (except for jack-stands).
If you do not have access to the car for a long time it is an option. Removing the battery protects you from any acid leaks. Anyways, such a defect is very unlikely during storage. However, if it happens corrosion around the battery is quite a pain in the ass then.Originally posted by nj2Type-S
[B]for the battery, do i have to remove the battery entirely, or can i just disconnect the battery?
You should have your battery also charged to about 1/2 of the capacity. Once it is down there is the risk that lead on the bottom of the battery short-outs the cells. There is no fix for that. You have to get a new battery in that event.
Use silicon to protect all rubber/plastic joints of your car (this also avoids corrosion to some extent next to the rubber joints). You should also renew the corrosion protection of your undercarriage if it is an oldie. I prefer wax based products for that.
Renew the fat on moving parts of your car (e.g. the transmission). Everything that is supposed to move and stands idle for a long time may be subject to rust. Here back home we have a saying "Wo Öl ist, kann kein Rost sein!" (i.e. Everything that is properly oiled will not rust).
Moving to Canada from Germany: If you know how to import a car from Europe to Canada, please help me here.
Some of you get far too picky in storage techniques, hehe
I've stored all my cars (911, g35, mustang, etc... etc..) the same way - full tank of gas (incase I want to spin around on the driveway, hehehe), no cover (why bother, dust will still get in after 6months).
Only special thing I do is I drive up on wooden boards - I was once told that parking on concrete can cause flat spots, while parking on wood won't - don't know if it's a myth or not, but in 8yrs I've never seen a flat spot on any of my cars, which usually sit for 6months, driven maybe 2-3x in that time up/down the driveway for a bit of fun.
I've never had a problem w/ skunky gas tank or anything. I always just start up and go.
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I found this post very handy for storing my S2000.
http://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=247621
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what about cardboard? can i place cardboard underneath it? thanks!Originally posted by M.alex
Only special thing I do is I drive up on wooden boards - I was once told that parking on concrete can cause flat spots, while parking on wood won't - don't know if it's a myth or not, but in 8yrs I've never seen a flat spot on any of my cars, which usually sit for 6months, driven maybe 2-3x in that time up/down the driveway for a bit of fun.