Urgent sub help!

[shakalaka]

Ok, so I had two 10's in my car and one stopped working a while ago. It had a rip in it so I figured maybe just because of that, so I just disconnected it and let the other one go. And from the sound of it, it seems like yesterday that one went as well, I can hear ripping sounds. I don't know why and I don't care, I was just listening to it at one point and on then out of nowhere it's gone.

Anyways that's not the problem. So today I went to Future shop and bought two boxed 10 inches subs. They were on clearence and I got a good deal on them. The box has a picture of the subs and on the back compartment there is a amp that was supposed to be with these. It doesn't matter, cauz I have got a amp hooked up and everything from before anyways.

So now to my question, on the back side of the new sub box there are 4 wires sticking out. 2 red and 2 black. They have no markings on them whatsover, I am wondering which one goes where on the amp. Like I know where the old sub wires were, and there was '+' and '-' on one side and then '+' and '-' on the other. So I am guessing it has to be the same for these subs as well, but there are two red wires and two black with no markings of anykind on them. How do I tell which one is which?


Thanks a lot for your time, I would appreciate some quick responses, as I have the whole thing open in my garage at the moment.

[Rx7]

red is positiove and black is negative, u hook them up to the + and - temrinals on the amp

[soupey]

since there are two subs there are 4 terminals, im guessing ur confused cuz ur last box only had 2 terminals, u'll have to bridge the subs to get the most out of ur amp.

[shakalaka]

Ummm...to be honest, I have no idea what I am doing. So that 'bridging' and stuff I have no clue what that is.


Soupey I am not too sure what you mean. Like my last sub box had two 10's as well and 4 wires sticking out. Two positive and two negative, and as far as I can see this is exactly the same just different wires.


Rx7, So do I hook 1 positive and 1 negative on one side of amp and one postive and one negative on the other? Or do I hook up both positives on the positive of the amp, and both negatives on the negative side of amp?

Thanks guys.

[hoamic11]

Hook up both reds to the + side and both blacks to the - side.

exactly the same as your old one was but instead of the wires have a + and -, it's red and black.

[shakalaka]

Alright I will go try that. Thanks so much.

[shakalaka]

I also got another question. I have got these hooked up and they are working fine.

My amp is quite a small one, it's a RF Punch 1505, it's pretty small. I don't think it is that strong, but I am just wondering are there any chances of me blowing up my subs or something if they pound really loud?

Thanks

[hoamic11]

Honestly, your best bet would be to tell us everything, like what brand and model of subs you bought to know how well it would work with your RF amp.

Without knowing any of the specs it's kinda hard to tell you.

[shakalaka]

Well the amp like I said is RF Punch 1505 and the subs are these one, I got from futureshop.
http://www.futureshop.ca/catalog/pro...0076955&catid=

Thanks

[hoamic11]

I think you'll be fine, from what I can find on those subs, they only require 50-200wrms, and your amp puts out 150w bridged at 4ohms.

If i'm correct on it, this is what your amp does:
37.5 x 2 @ 4ohm
75 x 2 @ 2ohm
150x1 @ 1ohm

so you should be good

[shakalaka]

Alright, thanks a lot man. I appreciate it. I haven't maxed the amp from behind anyways, if it is all the way up, the bass is almost unbearable.

On the side note, these subs are great for the price they are at right now. If anyone's looking for cheap ones' they are the best bang for your buck.

[shakalaka]

Also sorry to bother you again, but would you know if there is a way to stop the top part of the trunk from rattling? Like the part where inside back light is, rattles everytime the subs pound, anyway I can stop that?
Thanks

[shakalaka]

Ok, now I have got another strange problem, which I am sorta hoping that someone here can help me.

I will be listening to music and subs would be working all fine and dandy, and then suddenly they would stop working and then just kick back in after a little while.

Does anyone know what's going on here?

Thanks for any help.

[yellowsnow]

Originally posted by shakalaka
Also sorry to bother you again, but would you know if there is a way to stop the top part of the trunk from rattling? Like the part where inside back light is, rattles everytime the subs pound, anyway I can stop that?
Thanks

My friend had that problem... he ripped out his interior plastics and put sound deadening material in his doors/trunk... was a LOT of work.

Originally posted by shakalaka
Ok, now I have got another strange problem, which I am sorta hoping that someone here can help me.

I will be listening to music and subs would be working all fine and dandy, and then suddenly they would stop working and then just kick back in after a little while.

Does anyone know what's going on here?

Thanks for any help.

Check your wire connections, maybe the bass is shaking them loose. Did you wrap your connections with electrical tape?

[Weapon_R]

Amp is being overloaded is my guess

[shakalaka]

I am pretty sure the wires are fine. They were done pretty well.


Weapon_R...if the AMP is being overloaded, is there anything I can do about that?

[Weapon_R]

Originally posted by shakalaka
I am pretty sure the wires are fine. They were done pretty well.


Weapon_R...if the AMP is being overloaded, is there anything I can do about that?

Try reducing the load on it by turning down your bass and gains. If that doesn't work, you'll probably need a more suitable amp for this setup.

[shakalaka]

Cool, will try that I guess.

But it's weird this amp supported two 10' RF Stage 1 Punch's just fine. Not a single problem. I suppose these subs might have more wattage then those then.

[GTS Jeff]

AHHHHHHHH HAHAHHAAHAHA

What a shitshow thread. Sorry guys, but you've all misled the OP into mis-wiring his amp, and now it's overheating. Let me explain:

Those subs are both 4 ohms. When you wire them in series, the amp sees an 8 ohm impedance. When you wire them in parallel, the amp sees 2 ohms. The term here is not "bridging," because you don't bridge speakers, you bridge channels in an amp. The term is just "wiring in series/parallel." When you got the OP to hook both the +s and -s to the amp in a bridge configuration, you are putting it into PARALLEL. This means the amp is seeing 2 ohms while it's bridged. Since the amp is actually only 4 ohm stable when bridged, it can't handle 2 ohms. As such it's overheating and the protection circuitry kills the music for awhile.

4Ù Load Per Channel 37.5 Watts x 2
2Ù Load Per Channel 75 Watts x 2
4Ù Load Bridged (Mono) 150 Watts x 1

Oh and BTW, your amp is an RF Punch 150S not 1505. This amp has only enough power to power a single small 4 ohm sub. I bet the reason your original subs blew is because you were pushing a lot of distortion through them from this woefully inadequate amp. The solution? Buy a new amp.

http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?...Product_ID=474

[GTS Jeff]

Originally posted by shakalaka
But it's weird this amp supported two 10' RF Stage 1 Punch's just fine. Not a single problem.

Uhh, well it chewed through two subs already, you don't consider that a problem?