Mr_ET's new project car, yes it's still a Honda

[Primer_Drift]

ECU most likely. Throw the stock y7 ecu on there and see if it fires up.

[Joe-G]

I have an extra set of injectors from my b18b if you want to give those a try? They were working fine when i pulled them.

[Mr_ET]

I highly dought that I would have 4 injectors all fail at exactly the same time. Thx for the offer man.

I will try the y7 ecu without the jumper to see what happens.

It probably won't be happy with only 1 o2 and an OBD1 dizzy but if that's the issue it should still start it :P

[Primer_Drift]

Originally posted by Mr_ET


I will try the y7 ecu without the jumper to see what happens.

It probably won't be happy with only 1 o2 and an OBD1 dizzy but if that's the issue it should still start it :P

It should fire, but not run on the y7 ecu. At very least you should hear the injectors open and close when you turn the key to the on position. If it does not, you have wiring issue.

[Mr_ET]

doesn't make a change at all. It doesn't catch and everything is still dry in the cylinders with the y7.

I'll play around with the wiring tomorrow night.

[lhatton]

I couldn't tell, but are you using a resistor box with the obd1 injectors by chance?

[dj_honda]

you don't get any codes?
you are getting spark for sure?
any blown fuses?

go over your grounds, make sure they are making clean contact....i noticed you painted your transmission housing, valvecover etc. make sure the grounds are touching bare metal. you might have to scuff up the paint at those areas.

check voltage at the injectors, and then check for continuity between the injector pin and the corresponding ecu pin for all 4. if there is a break, there is something wrong with the harness somewhere or your engine harness to chassis harness connector is not in all the way.

also check to see that the ecu connectors are getting their corresponding ground signals as well.

finally double check your distributor conversion harness. make sure its in tight and all that....the dist worked for sure before?

[Mr_ET]

it's a new distributor so there was no before but I am assuming it works.

I am also assuming it has spark but will check that tonight.

The grounds are all clean and paint has been scrapped off for all 3 of them.

No blown fuses and no CELs

I would need to check the wiring on the injectors next as well as the voltage. I haven't used my voltmeter in a while so it might take me a bit of time to figure out how it works again.

The conversion harness is on there nice and tight and all wires look fine. I wouldn't dought it's in working order.

[Mr_ET]

I have a spare OBD2b SIR dizzy, I will try that tonight and see if it fires, maybe it's an issue with the dizzy or conversion harness.

If it is it would prevent it from getting spark or fuel. I'll report back.

[dj_honda]

Originally posted by Mr_ET


If it is it would prevent it from getting spark or fuel. I'll report back.

yeah...that's why i was asking if you had spark for sure. keep us posted

[Mr_ET]

threw the B16a2 dizzy on there and it seems to "fart" every time it turns over now but still no fuel on the injectors.

I need to look at the injector wiring but am not really feeling well tonight so it might happen tomorrow night.

[Primer_Drift]

Originally posted by Mr_ET
I am also assuming it has spark but will check that tonight.

Ah man, you said in your other post you had spark.. what gives? lol

It would still spray fuel even if the dizzy was unplugged.

-If the spark plugs are wet after cranking it over you have a spark/dizzy problem..

-If the plugs are dry and you've tried the y7 ecu you have a wiring problem..

You could also check for 12v+ on the yellow/black wires on the injectors, but even if they are wired backwards they will still run just fine. The shared 12v+ connector is located on the drivers side strut tower, its' the one with the jumper plug in it.

[Mr_ET]

So the wiring on the injectors is secure, yellow black goes to yellow black on each injector and
4 is yellow
3 is blue
2 is red
1 is brown

as it should be.

The engine is also getting spark I checked.

Either the injectors are all screwed up or it's something I haven't thought of.

The grounds are all fine (on the metal everywhere), the fuse box wires are in properly (checked on another EK), the 15a ecu fuse is fine (even changed it).

I tried bumping the fuel pressure to 45 psi and no difference.

The only odd thing is the fuel pressure drops slowly on the gauge after cranking down to like 35psi and it doesn't leak anywhere.

I will try new injectors soon

[LilDrunkenSmurf]

This might be a really dumb question but.. Is there gas in the tank?

[Primer_Drift]

Don't bother with pulling the injectors..

Turn your voltmeter to the nearest setting to 12v (usually 20V on the meter), test the black and red wires on your battery to show 12v.

Unclip one injector and probe both contacts on the plug. Turn the car on and it should spike up to 12v+ on the voltmeter for a few seconds. Test it with both the Y7 and p28 to rule out the ecu conversion harness.

If it works for the Y7 but not the p28, could be an issue with the "STS" wire on the conversion harness.

If it does not show 12v on either, have a look at the primary 02 sensor, as the 12v+ that supply's power to the injectors also provides power to the o2 sensor, a fault there will cause low voltage at the injectors.

[Mr_ET]

yes more than half a tank of 94 and it was run periodically until about 3 weeks ago when I pulled it all apart.

There is fuel pressure, the fuel pump primes, the gaue on the fuel filter shows pressure and the rail is full of fuel.

I'll try another set of OBD1 injectors tomorrow to see if that helps.

[lhatton]

when the injectors are out, check the power to the clips. if there is no power, the new injectors will be a waste of time.

do you have a noid to put in the injector clips?

[Mr_ET]

noid?

I will check power with my multimeter tomorrow night, a friend thinks I might have obd0 injectors and since I don't know their history this is possible...

[Primer_Drift]

OBD0 peak and hold injectors will not fit on any OBD1 or OBD2 civic/teg injector plugs. Only the F and H series engines used peak and hold injectors in OBD1, and the plugs are physically dissimilar.

Even if they were low impedance (P&H) rather than high impedance (saturated), they would still run the car - albeit poorly. Where impedance matters is to the injector drivers on the ECU motherboard. Too low a resistance causes a higher amperage to flow through the injector driver, burning it out. I have NEVER heard of instantaneous burn out of an injector driver, infact most will run fine until higher rpms.

[lhatton]

my obd1 injectors and clips fit together and fire fine, but did require very slight modification to fit.

if you didn't modify them, they are probably fine.