drive axel hub nut wont come off! need help from fellow beyonder who is a tech!

[marc]

so the hub bolt that bolts to the drive axel is totally seized on my Mazda Mx6. behind that hub bolt sits a very very warn out drive axel that is in need of replacement.

i've already tried to heat the piss outta it and use a heavy duty snap-on 1/2" impact gun on it but it just wont budge. ive also had a 2 1/2 foot snipe on it but that just ended up bending the snipe.


i need the help of a fellow beyonder (hopefully an automotive tech) that would have access to a 3/4" impact and a shop sized compressor since this appears to be the only way to get that damn hub nut off.

i use to work in the industry so i know that one of these models of impact guns would do the job:


snap-on MG1200
blue point AT770, AT775, AT126




there would be a (your choice) 6 pack of beer in it for who ever can help me out

[Supa Dexta]

Is there a safety pin still in it?

[marc]

there is no safety pin for this type of axle. to keep the hub nut from backing off the drive axle has a key way cut in it; the hub nut has a ring of metal at the top of it that is meant to be punched into the key way to prevent backing off while driving.

i have already carefully ground off the section on the hub nut in the key way so i know for sure that it wasn't stopping it.

[xcye]

Try to ask a friend to hold the brake (to prevent the hub from turning). Then use a long pipe (at lease 4 feet) with half inch racket to brake the nut. Pipe is much stronger than SNIPE.

[DRKM]

Is the car drivable? If so just drop it by my shop...
Pm me.

[510-Trevor]

Another trick is to jack the car up, attach the socket and breaker bar/long pipe, then SLOWLY let the car down using the car's weight to turn the nut. Or put the car on jack stands and use the jack to lift the breaker bar. I know on the Datsun, that nut should be torqued to something like 350 ft/lbs.

[legendboy]

if you are heating it with a plumbing type propane torch, it won't work

if you heat it with an OA gas torch it should come off with long snipe (think 4')

use a crow bar to stop the hub againsed the ground while breaking loose

[Supa Dexta]

Originally posted by xcye
Try to ask a friend to hold the brake (to prevent the hub from turning). Then use a long pipe (at lease 4 feet) with half inch racket to brake the nut. Pipe is much stronger than SNIPE.

what do you think a snipe is exactly?

[Tezzating]

Another trick is... Mazda likes to use left handed thread on some of their axels
Infact, i know this 'cos I found a left handed thread on my Familia... and we promptly stripped the threads using an MG1200 rattle gun. $400 later for the replacement and its a valuable lesson..

[rc2002]

Originally posted by Tezzating
Another trick is... Mazda likes to use left handed thread on some of their axels
Infact, i know this 'cos I found a left handed thread on my Familia... and we promptly stripped the threads using an MG1200 rattle gun. $400 later for the replacement and its a valuable lesson..

I've never seen a car with reverse threaded nuts on axles before. I would try this before trying all the methods mentioned above.

Hopefully you didn't damage anything by heating it. The ABS sensor and bearings are quite susceptible to heat.

[gretz]

i did 4 axles last weekend,
-use release agent (may help)
-i didn't grind out the tab, i used a flathead and a hammer (probably helped knock the nut loose)
-a 4' bar with a screwdriver in my rotor slot (better than brakes on)
-use a 'bouncing' motion on the end of the bar, putting more and more pressure with each pull/push (your fancy) until the bolt breaks loose or the bar breaks.

Worked no problem for 2 86 crx's

[89s1]

I had to use a 5 foot bar to loosen my axle nuts.

I think you need a longer bar.

[marc]

i checked the new drive axle and its definately is threaded in the conventional direction. thats very strange that the familia has reverse threading, which drive axles had the reverse thread (drivers side or passangers side and im assuming your familia was AWD)?


i gave it another whirl with a 4 1/2 foot snipe, i jumped on the end of it and which was well over 700ft lbs but still the hub nut wont move. i heard a crack from the drive axle but at closer look i found that i have now cracked my 32mm socket! im not surprised it broke though because it was a 12 point socket on a 6 point nut.

to help break the hub nut free i never do it with the wheel off, jamming something in the rotor is asking for trouble (broken rotor fins, broken caliper mounts, ect) and using the brakes can be a pain in the ass with out engine vacuum. instead i use winter wheels that allow you to access the hub nut with out having the wheel off, then i can chalk the wheels and jump on the snipe with out the car moving.

at this point im gonna have to get a new socket but i think im getting close to getting it freed up.

[89s1]

lol been there, tried to use a 12 point socket on 6 point headbolts once.

3/8 drive are weak enough sockets as it is. Luckily it makes a great bowl for the aqua lung now.

[Lovitt]

I once had an axle nut that would not come off for anything, eventually stripped the bolt, after breaking 3-4 1/2 rachets. Eventually I just took a small cold chisel and cut the bolt off. If you are changing the axle it shouldn't matter if you mess up the threads anyway. Its another option if it comes to it.

[sr20s14zenki]

Get a friend to hit the brakes, as long of a piece of pipe you can find, make sure its thick, atleast 3/16"

use a breaker bar, go get one at princess auto, that way you wont care if you break it (=

[Ukyo8]

split the nut

[mazda_maniac]

I agree just split the nut. Gonna save you a lot of frustration.

[revelations]

Youve probably tried this but liquid wrench left overnight does wonders.

We used it to separate turbine wheel bolts from jet engines.