networking problem

[RawB8figure]

I have the shaw cable modem and dlink DIR 628 router in the basement. I have 4 cat5e runs to the upstairs. I wired everything according to the wiring diagram. I get no internet on the cat5e runs, but if i go downstairs and plug directly to the dlink router it works. I checked my connections and all of them are solid. So I have no idea what it is now.

[adam c]

did you make the cat5e yourself?

[RawB8figure]

I bought the crimper and ends and crimped them myself. I did it to the 526B standard on both ends

[adam c]

http://inside.lanothon.org/2007/03/cat5e-wiring.html

looks like that?

[SpireTECH]

The biggest newbie mistake when crimping your own lines is not getting the pairs all the way up to the metal teeth that are crimped down into the lines.

Usually it's the middle ones that sneak out on ya. It's always a good idea to borrow a cable tester to make sure. Depending on which pair is missing, the cable might still work but you won't get optimal performance. So a cable tester is a huge benefit, or just get someone who has done it a few times to crimp them.

Also, make sure BOTH teeth on each wire are contacting the metal. We get called out to sites on a daily basis where it turns out a home-made cable let go because only one tooth was holding the wire on.

Another good tip for long lasting cables is to make sure the jacket is pushed into plastic jack where the ridge is crimped down. That's why that ridge is there and places the stress of moving the cable on the jacket and not the lines.

[RawB8figure]

Well I figured it out. It was the jacks in the wall the wires werent pushed down hard enough to cut the jacket. I am using the ones from monoprice and this is a known problem, so I used a butter knife to push the wire down further.

Thanks,

[Alterac]

Originally posted by SpireTECH

Also, make sure BOTH teeth on each wire are contacting the metal. We get called out to sites on a daily basis where it turns out a home-made cable let go because only one tooth was holding the wire on.

It happens mostly becuase people who make the cable dont know that you need different RJ45 connectors depending on your cable type, be it solid or stranded.

[dr_jared88]

Originally posted by RawB8figure
Well I figured it out. It was the jacks in the wall the wires werent pushed down hard enough to cut the jacket. I am using the ones from monoprice and this is a known problem, so I used a butter knife to push the wire down further.

Thanks,

Those Monoprice jacks are terrible. I have been a big fan of the stuff the carry but they need to find a new supplier for their jacks. The "Tool-less" design is awful. I will only by the punch down stuff after touching those.

[SpireTECH]

Originally posted by Alterac


It happens mostly becuase people who make the cable dont know that you need different RJ45 connectors depending on your cable type, be it solid or stranded.

Unfortunately it's very true. Most electricians thinks they can run low voltage wire like any other wire. Developers and builders don't care because it saves them money on the construction.

We just relocated a client a few months ago into a new building. Part of our site survey uncovered that none of the 260 runs had been tested for simple continuity, let alone actual frequency testing. More than 25% of the lines needed some sort of rewiring. I think they had to rerun a couple too, because they had not saved themselves any service wire and had no room left to re-terminate the lines.

That's just the beginning of it... The lines had been run in close proximity to the electrical lines, and were literally touching the florescent light fixtures in some instances. The long runs experience connectivity issues when the air compressors in the back kicked on.

[Dirty_SOHC]

Originally posted by RawB8figure
I bought the crimper and ends and crimped them myself. I did it to the 526B standard on both ends

Crimp it to 568A standard and that should fix your problem

[SpireTECH]

Originally posted by Dirty_SOHC


Crimp it to 568A standard and that should fix your problem

I can't quite tell if the poster is being sarcastic or not. But that's definitely not the cause of your problem.

T568A/B will both work fine, as long as you terminate using the same standard on both ends.

Back in the days before gigabit ethernet, you would use a cable terminated with A on one end, and B on the other as a crossover cable. Now days, that's not the best practice because gigabit crossover cables need the brown and blue pairs swapped as well.

[Mibz]

Originally posted by SpireTECH
Now days, that's not the best practice because gigabit crossover cables need the brown and blue pairs swapped as well.

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