my studs are 2x4 and they're almost 22" apart, do I go with 19" wide insulation or 23" wide insulation?
my studs are 2x4 and they're almost 22" apart, do I go with 19" wide insulation or 23" wide insulation?
23"
I insulated and drywalled mine so it doesn't look as ghetto. It was like a 1 day job with my friend.
i was in my basement looking at how they did the insulating and I noticed on the fibreglass batts it says r8 on them, is that the r value of the batting in my basement? Does that seem low?
Last edited by JC522; 07-30-2009 at 12:03 AM.
I simply laid insulation up into the ceiling (the horizontal part over where the cars park), should I actually put it up against the part of the roof that faces the outside (the part underneath the shingles)? Cause I'm just gonna dry wall the ceiling sections, am I correct in just putting it up in the ceiling instead of the roof part underneath the shingles
Am I correct to assume I vapour barrier the ceiling (horizontal part over where the cars park)
Last edited by JC522; 07-30-2009 at 06:19 PM.
Correct.Originally posted by JC522
I simply laid insulation up into the ceiling (the horizontal part over where the cars park), should I actually put it up against the part of the roof that faces the outside (the part underneath the shingles)? Cause I'm just gonna dry wall the ceiling sections, am I correct in just putting it up in the ceiling instead of the roof part underneath the shingles
Yes.Originally posted by JC522
Am I correct to assume I vapour barrier the ceiling (horizontal part over where the cars park)
Not sure what the right R-value should be, but realize that the concrete and the earth provide good insulation as well. The basement walls require less insulation than your main floor walls. In some older houses, there is no insulation in the basement... just bare concrete walls.Originally posted by JC522
i was in my basement looking at how they did the insulating and I noticed on the fibreglass batts it says r8 on them, is that the r value of the batting in my basement? Does that seem low?
That fiberglass will make you itch like a mother. You've been warned. Gloves and tape around your wrists, lol.
At my parents house it's R12 up top with vapor barrier, no drywall,
and the walls are R20 with vapor barrier drywall.
If you can get a drywall lift and help with a buddy, I would do that. Hidden benefits of drywall, light will reflect more and it will be brighter. Enough for me to notice it.
My garage is insulated and drywalled. Not only does it look more pleasing aesthically, I can also say that I do notice a difference in warmth inside compared to outside in both summer and winter months. I've noticed consistantly that the temp in the garage is on average 10 degrees warmer in winter months and again on average 10 degrees cooler in summer.
This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show QuoteThis quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
Framing is measured from the center of the stud to the center of another stud and typical widths are 16", 19" and 24" apart. Insulation batt widths are usually 1" less than that so it can fit snuggly from the edge of the stud to the edge of another stud. It's better to buy wider insulation batts and cut it down to size than to get smaller ones and having to piece a whole bunch of small pieces together.
I guess it depends on how well the builders insulated the garage ceiling underneath your bonus room. Our bonus room is the same temprature as the rest of the top floor, It is not any colder. We also do not hear any noise from the garage, except for the garage door opening and closing. The only thing insulated in my garage is the ceiling underneath the bonus room and the shared wall with the house.Originally posted by benyl
I can tell you from personal experience that the room above the garage will be much colder than the rest of the house until you insulate the garage.
i swear your garage was warmer by the time the insulation was up
So I finished the walls last week an I'm slowly getting around to getting the roof done but I had some questions. The garage door rail, do I remove the bracket and run the poly underneath it? Do I remove it and run drywall underneath there too and then just bolt the bracket to the drywall? On the other side of the bracket there's no more beams just a huge beam that adds support to the bonus room, do I staple the end of the poly to there? (like I did in the first picture, that gap runs the width of the garage) here's pictures to make understanding easier
Also when t comes time to drywalling, this stud sticks up above the rest of the studs, how do I drywall it or am I supposed to just leave the stud showing?
Last edited by JC522; 08-10-2009 at 03:28 PM.