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Thread: Garage doors - if you're still planning that garage...

  1. #1
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    Default Garage doors - if you're still planning that garage...

    Going to tease some of you building garages Yes cellphone pics / vids not high quality - but you get the general idea.

    This was my weekend project; owner of this place chose wisely, and followed my suggestions.

    16x8 Steelcraft T12 (ok I didn't like this - but it was part of the garage package), running a bit of highlift (vertical travel before rolling back), then follows the pitch of the scissor trusses. Operator is a Liftmaster 3800 Jackshaft.

    (For those getting technical - yep no weatherstrip... Friggin steelcraft - package says 16x8 right on it but has 7' sides )



    Can't tell but the floors actually close to 1 1/2" out of level at its worst; cheated the door (headshaft is level) to pick up most of it.


    Gotta love all that room!

    Video - love that 3800 - quiet as heck; makes that clunk-clunk of rollers transitioning sound ridiculously loud.


    Yes this is one way to fit a hoist in the garage

    No - it doesn't come cheap...

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    so do you build garages or just install garage doors?

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    I was wondering if you would happen to know how to take off paint from a wooden garage door. I have a wooden garage door that is painted over. I was wondering whats the best possible way/easiest way to get rid of the paint so I can varnish and sand to show off the wood.

    Also if you build garages would you also know how much height should there be at a minimum in order to incorporate a lift?
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    Not a framer - technically not a door guy anymore (but I do still work in the industry). I do like to prove to myself I can still do it; and get hands-on knowledge of the new gear every now and then...

    Don't assume that since your door is wood - that it can be stained... There's a stain grade for a reason. You may find what's underneath isn't something you'd want on the front of your house... If it's a true residential wood panel door - you may find that it's particle board or similar on the panels (area at the center of the section bordered by styles/top & bottom rails).

    More height is better, 9' eave with scissor trusses makes it easier - but you'd never get a truck on the hoist... (By the way - never ask the framer/builder - they put em up all the time then the door guy gets left to figure out how it can possibly be made to work - they never ask us what we can do - they just figure we can work around whatever they throw up)
    Last edited by AndyL; 10-12-2009 at 08:56 PM.

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    I'm having a 3800 jackshaft operator + high lift hardware installed in the new baywest home I'm building as well. It's gonna be so sweet. I'll have like 10ft of clearance (at the lowest point ) inside the garage that way. I spoke with the door company personally so they know what i expect and they say its very do-able based on my plans.

    It's something nobody ever thinks about. Hell I wasn't even thinking about it until I walked through another similar house that was under construction and noticed how shitty it was having a low hanging door. It really is the best way to free up as much space as possible whether the door is up or down.
    Last edited by NickGT; 10-12-2009 at 10:05 PM.

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    Default Re: Garage doors - if you're still planning that garage...

    Originally posted by AndyL
    16x8 Steelcraft T12 (ok I didn't like this - but it was part of the garage package)
    Too bad he wasn't able to upgrade to a wider door in lieu of what's given in the package. This garage is big enough for an 18' door, maybe even a 20' door.

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    Garage would handle a lot wider yet (there's a good 6' on each side of the door)

    But wider isn't always better; once you pass 18' really you're getting into a commercial door and costs start escalating exponentially... You start running out of 'residential' operators you can use; start getting into the mid range commercial stuff...

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    I have a ~11'-6" ceiling in my garage. Of course, they put a standard 16x8 door in, with 90* bends at the top. Any reason I couldn't get some lengths of straight track, and extend it up to the ceiling before going horizontal?
    And now I'll illustrate with a gorgeous ansi representation:


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    Yep - there's a very good reason actually

    All has to do with balance - you need correct springs & drum to properly counterbalance the weight of the door (and have it balance correctly all the way through). Anyone who tells you different and is going to make it work - will be doing you a great disservice.

    In your scenario there's 3 options (in shell busey good better best format)

    10' verticals, new drums, springs (standard lift), a dummy section (scratch & dent or similar - wont be seen - except from inside).

    Swap out horizontals for 32" radius, new springs, drums, cables, puts the underside of the track up to ~10'. Need a longer trolley rail and longer j-arm. Alternatively I have ceiling mounted a couple openers back far enough to make an existing opener work... Usually better to just do it right...

    Proper way - add a splice, bit more track, new springs, drums cables, swap that existing opener out for a jackshaft variety. And everything is wonderful...
    Last edited by AndyL; 10-13-2009 at 11:06 AM.

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    Figures.
    I wasn't sure if the torsion bar springs could be tightened enough to lift the door an extra 3'.

    Looks like a jackshaft opener would be the easiest way to go.
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    It's a little more than tightening them a bit - throws everything out when you do that - and the springs suddenly are only getting you ~4500 cycles vs 10,000... Then balance through full range is hot, and you start blowing opener gears apart...

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    Don't forget an electrical outlet within 6ft of the jackshaft operator for power.

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    Originally posted by AndyL
    Garage would handle a lot wider yet (there's a good 6' on each side of the door)

    But wider isn't always better; once you pass 18' really you're getting into a commercial door and costs start escalating exponentially... You start running out of 'residential' operators you can use; start getting into the mid range commercial stuff...
    Yep, I've got an 18x7 door with a residential opener and my buddy has an 18x8. I only saw a 20' door once in a show home but didn't think to look at the opener.

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    This is why I can't wait to own a house!

    I'd live in my garage.

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    Theoretically - you could do even 30x10 with a standard residential opener... Strangely chamberlain/liftmaster no longer show 'max dimensions' - which i find REALLY odd, since commercially once you're past 22' wide you're supposed to be using a dual trolley system.. And a commercial opener makes a residential opener look well... puny

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    be like me and make a concrete garage.
    westnet speedtest ping me


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    This weekends project...

    From this - smacking a door into a camaro...


    Instead we went through the shelf (yep through, carpenter cut a big honkin hole and reframed)



    This is a true highlift scenario - had to do things a bit more commercial though - solid keyed shaft & 25,000 cycle springs. The springs put us over capacity on the tube shaft; had to go with a solid keyed shaft - Seen many of these done with a standard tube shaft; unfortunately that'll cost the homeowner in the end...

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    Another one down



    This one kills me... Is it really that important to save 2$ by using a bushing instead of a proper bearing on a rotating assembly? Installer probably never noticed he crushed it while installing too -

    Used 2 bearings and did it the way it should be... (4 springs after conversion)


    5 more days then the real whoring begins

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    Edit
    Last edited by AndyL; 02-22-2012 at 08:48 AM.

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    Today's fun...

    Cheap way to make some space available above. Bit of pitch, not exactly the 'right' way to do things, but definitely more affordable


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