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Thread: Champ Car teardown

  1. #1
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    Default Champ Car teardown

    A buddy and I started the teardown yesterday. The goal is to get a Yamaha R1 engine in the car for a trackday in January.

    Radiators, wheels, rear wing, sidepods and engine cover removed.


    Notice the beautiful air directors that normally go unnoticed.


    Radiator ducts and undertray removed.






    The bodywork in the driveway.




    Down to just the tub.


    Rear suspension/gearbox assy.


    Bulkhead removed to gain access to fuel cell.





    Rob
    Last edited by 2M6; 10-25-2009 at 01:23 AM.

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    Looks like an awesome project, but you need a few more Canadian flags in that shop to offset the yankee influence.

  3. #3
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  4. #4
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    Why did you choose a R1??? If you wanted a motorcycle powered track car should of just bought a Storh.
    "Could you please turn down your car"- Ben

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    Originally posted by 2M6
    But I am a Yankee.
    Duly noted. I hadn't noticed your "location," and only upon looking at things OTHER than the car did I notice the somewhat tropical vegetation out on the front street.

  6. #6
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    The "track day in January" and 3' fan running at night didn't clue you in?

  7. #7
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    Originally posted by Roaring G60
    Why did you choose a R1??? If you wanted a motorcycle powered track car should of just bought a Storh.
    I have an R1 engine sitting in the garage, might as well use it.

    I bought the car because it is something unique and I picked it up for far less $$$ than a Stohr. In fact I couldn't have bought a used 4cyl Radical for twice what I payed for the Swift. It also is a much better platform than anything else short of a 90's and up Formula 1. The late 90's/early 00's were the pinnacle of CART/Champ Car since there were still multiple constructors/engine/tire suppliers in the mix. They were all competing against one another so no punches were pulled.

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    Are you planning to use the YZF as a stressed member or build a tube frame around it to the bulkhead??
    "Could you please turn down your car"- Ben

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    what an insane build!!! what year is the chassis?

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    so... do you move everything back in each night or do you just leave your stuff sitting in your driveway??

    must be a good neighborhood to not worry about your shiet getting jacked

    sweet build though
    trying is the first step towards failure


  11. #11
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    what will it weigh after you're done? What's the weight:HP?

  13. #13
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    Right now the car weighs 1029lbs. I removed probably 15 pounds of wiring/misc hardware and fire suppression system (not complete or I would have kept it intact). I will be adding 156lbs of R1 engine, ~30 pounds of brake calipers and ~9lbs of clutch/flywheel. HP is 175 putting the power to weight at about 6.9lbs/hp.

  14. #14
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    Today I worked on gutting the data aquisition wiring/sensors from the tub. I also moved all the pedals forward to accomodate my long legs. Then I installed the clutch fork and TO bearing back into the gearbox. I also test fit a clutch.

    Footbox all cleaned up.


    The fork and bearing housing are aluminum with only the wear points/pivots being steel.




    Note the hollow wing stantions. Too cool!










    Rob
    Last edited by 2M6; 10-25-2009 at 01:26 AM.

  15. #15
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    This is the frame that will hold the Yamaha R1 bike engine and connect the tub to the gearbox (not complete but you get the idea). The square tubing is 1.25 X 1.25 X .120" wall. The flat bar is 1.5 X .375".












    Test fit of brake pedal.


    Brake pedal and bias bar.




    Remote adjustment cable is a nice touch.

  16. #16
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    Thats one sick whipe, can't wait to see this thing finished.

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    subscribed!

    sweet build but if it doesn't have vtec then you're not gonna get any single cam love from the 12 year olds in here haha

    Love the build though!

  18. #18
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    Nice to see you guys back on your feet after the fire. Best of luck!

  19. #19
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    Looks like an amazing project, what I would do to pick one of those up...one hint on the welding, clean off the millscale prior to welding, you won't get that undercut on the toes and it will look cleaner and be nicer overall with less frustration. Good luck with the rest of the project!!

  20. #20
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    Making more parts.

    This is the coupler to connect the R1 motors output shaft to the jackshaft carrying the drive sprocket.




    This is the housing that holds the bearings supporting the driven shaft/flywheel.





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