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Thread: car moves from side to side

  1. #21
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    yeah, the control arm is numbers 7 and 8 in that picture I posted... quite different from the radius rod. It looks like you are missing the rubber bushing on the end of the radius rod as well.

  2. #22
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    ^thanks
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  3. #23
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    Damn scott you're right, I guess Rick and I didn't look at the pic right since the lca bolt that connects to the subframe looks about the same.

    It will affect your launches but I'm not sure about making the car move side to side.

  4. #24
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    Originally posted by Primer_Drift
    yeah, the control arm is numbers 7 and 8 in that picture I posted... quite different from the radius rod. It looks like you are missing the rubber bushing on the end of the radius rod as well.
    [IMG][/IMG]
    ^does this piece come with the radius rod? cause im missing that seems like it has broken off.
    Last edited by top_speed; 01-31-2010 at 09:27 PM.
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  5. #25
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    Originally posted by Mr_ET
    Damn scott you're right, I guess Rick and I didn't look at the pic right since the lca bolt that connects to the subframe looks about the same.

    It will affect your launches but I'm not sure about making the car move side to side.
    the car does move side to side when i give it gas and hit the brake but it come back to original place and i can push the tire front and back.
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  6. #26
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    Originally posted by top_speed

    the car does move side to side when i give it gas and hit the brake but it come back to original place and i can push the tire front and back.
    It is positively the radius rod.

    The radius rod controls front to back movement (caster), so if lower control arm bushings are worn you'll also get toe movement which will cause the car to steer.. So when you go to replace the radius rod, I suggest you check the lower control arm to strut fork bushing (#14) as well, as it may be cracked/broken.. #11 should be ok because it does not deflect as far as #14, but check it too.

    Originally posted by Mr_ET
    Damn scott you're right, I guess Rick and I didn't look at the pic right since the lca bolt that connects to the subframe looks about the same.
    The dead give away was the big-ass washer and the nut on the end of the radius rod

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    I know and I've removed some before too, you can also see the underside of the bumper lip and you'd be hard pressed to do this kind of damage to the LCA mounting locations but I could see someone scrapping these with the front end if they're not careful.

  8. #28
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    Originally posted by Primer_Drift


    It is positively the radius rod.

    The radius rod controls front to back movement (caster), so if lower control arm bushings are worn you'll also get toe movement which will cause the car to steer.. So when you go to replace the radius rod, I suggest you check the lower control arm to strut fork bushing (#14) as well, as it may be cracked/broken.. #11 should be ok because it does not deflect as far as #14, but check it too.
    suspension was adjusted when the radius rod broke.
    do u think i can drive the car for a week? with the rod broken cause i have to order it or get it from pick n pull.
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  9. #29
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    Have you tried both auto-value and partsource? I wouldn't drive it like that, it is very hard on the lower control arm bushings, tie rod and tire.

  10. #30
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    ^ i tried auto value and the said only dealer would have it. they only carry the bushing.
    thanks for the help
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  11. #31
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    Partsource or napa might carry it.

    No worries, best of luck

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